rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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What is your opinion
i have a stage 3 head
which has phosphorus bronze Valve stems fitted
to reduce possible oil burn i thought i might fit oil seals to the inlet guides
however when giving the matter some thought phosphorus bronze
needs oil to work properly so it could be detrimental to the set up ? (oil seal)
why use phosphorus against steel ?
looking forward to your comments
pink
original ones arent steel they are cast iron. like the rest of the engine.pb guides waste of money.
dont bother buying the moss oil seals, they are just a o ring.
top hat ones from tdi discovery will fit .but i wouldnt fit any type untill youve done several k miles.
and its well run in.theyre supposed to wipe the excess oil of the valve stem but allow some lubrication
if the valve does seize the push rod falls of the rocker and doesnt do any damage.
or at least it didnt on mine.
richard
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Thanks guys, thats put my mind slightly more at ease with the gearbox being filled correctly, that does mean however that it is likely to be the release bearing that has only lasted 250 miles! great!
Simon
you dont think it could be the bronze spigot bearing in the flywheel squeeking.
if your stood with the clutch down the gearbox wont be turning. but the bearing in the flywheel will be spinning around the gbox input shaft.
richard
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Thanks Richard - Have you fitted the Newman followers?
yes and new newman cam.
richard
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Hi Rien,
Thank you that is exactly the sort of info I am looking for - So Moss lightened followers are off my list now -
On the followers with a drain hole - I think the concept is simple and a good one re cam lube - someone told me they are weakened with this relatively minor hole - I notice that TR Enterprises do these - I will ask them who supplies them -
Re the lube - O yes I agree with that..
Thanks
Steve
i had some with holes in and my cam still wore out.
i dont think theyre supposed to help with lubrication.there supposed to be lighter because they arent full of oil.
which is bull.when the engines running it all gets thrown up onto rockers.
if you old ones are ok put them back in.
if not get a set of std ones from newman cams.
richard
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This is my first experience of owning and working on the TR6. Its not been 4 weeks and the clutch fork pin that locks it to the shaft has snapped. Not surprised. Could I have some advice on the best way to get at the clutch. Should I take out the gearbox from the top(what about the propshaft)... or would it be easier to take out the engine? I have access to a 2 post lift and engine hoist.
While reinstalling what must I watch out for. Thanks for any advice.
Sarajit
you dont have to cut the shaft to get the fork out.see pictures.
put a new tapered pin in tighten it up then drill through the fork and shaft and fit a 6 mm high tensile cap head bolt.job sorted.
others like to use roll pin instead.theyre ok but they are rock hard and brittle.
richard
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All my gearboxes in 2500's and my Stag run the bronze bush that Markich use - no issues ever - interestingly the modification was brought about because the gear, shaft and bearings were so expensive that cars (particularly saloons) were uneconomic to repair - the bronze bushing mod meant the laygear could be salvaged and even the layshaft reused if it wasn't too far gone - hence car could be kept on the road - the benefit was soon also realised that they then last indefinitely
are these bronze bushes over the counter size or home made on lathe
richard
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hi,i have pmd you.
i have 2 laygears on flea bay and some other gbox bits also.
richard
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230735698477?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
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Hi Alec
Thats an interesting point you make.
I did wonder about the "balance" being affected by fitting the short bolt / spacer kit to the crank pulley.
In its standard form there seems scope for the spacer to seat slightly out of true when being bolted up - instructions from the supplier are to remove both dowels.
Then I considered that weight wise ive lost the fan and heavy spacer assembly, so I assumed id be better off. Effectively ive drilled out one locating hole for the remaining dowel so I would have thought that would balance things out ? I suppose on a "balanced" engine it would make a difference but hadn't really concluded that it would affect my engine to much of an extent.
Regards.
Dave
if you have fitted a short spacer and bolt you dont need the dowels .because you are not driving the fan.
richard
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At the end of the month I'm going to be taking on the task of renewing the synchro rings on a 1971 TR6, but there's a few things I need to know:
Firstly, I have heard about sub-par synchro rings on the market, is there any way to tell which ones are good or is there anywhere with new old stock?
Secondly, aside from the syncro rings themselves, what else should I be looking to replace/renew whilst I have the box apart?
Also, something of speculation at the moment, but does anyone know of a suitable flywheel mounted crank sensor for use in a future EFI conversion?
going against the grain here. i wouldnt replace the main bearings if they are not noisy. new ones ****.
definatley replace or uprgrade the rear layshaft bearings.
[fit one full compliment bearing to the rear. or better stil buy a uprated laygear with 2 bearings.]
if you are having crunchy 2 3 rd gear changes in your 71 tr6 its most likely to be the brass 2nd gear top hat bush thats cracked.
richard
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I'm trying to get to the bottom of what I feel is very poor clutch feel. Engagement is just off the floor, pedal is very heavy and feels "dead".
The gearbox is now out and the cross shaft dismantled.
About two years ago when I changed the clutch friction plate I added a roll pin as a backup, that pin has sheared in two places, the main taper pin is intact but was not absolutely tight.
Looking closeley at the fork drilling, it is not a tapered hole right through, the far side is a loose 3/8" which puts the pin in single shear, the far side may as well not exist for all the use it has.
Has anyone found a supplier of forks which have the pin hole tapered right through?
Or do I make a parallel pin, or make a bush to fit in the far hole?
I suppose if I had stuck to autos for everyday use I would have continued thinking all clutches felt like that.
Any suggestions ?
Mike.
when i did mine i went to local nut and bolt merchant and got a 13/8 high tensile bolt and ground it so it was touching both sides of the hole and tight.
and instead of using a roll pin.which are very hard but brittle i used a 6mm cap head bolt.these are also high tensile.
no problems yet.
richard
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Great,
Well i cant be a "Richard Head", as roll bar was on the car twenty odd years ago when i bought it,
i had no option of a diagonal bar.
, if i had
i would have . I have left it in place because i feel sure it stiffens the rear bodywork, holds it all together.
Never been classified as a Boy Racer" before, this is a first
not sure whether to take this title with a smile, or throw my toys
out of the pram.
Cheers
Guy
does that fit under the hardtop ok.and do you know what make it is .
richard
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Hi Doug
When I rebuilt my gearbox and added overdrive some 2 years ago I faced exactly the same problem.
I spoke to a very helpful guy at Castrol technical and his advice was to use Syntrax Universal 75/90
which if I emember rightly is semi synthetic. I have since discovered that Comma do an equivalent
of High Performance SX 75/90. This is what I used as it is cheaper and am indeed very pleased with the
result ie smooth and silky. I did explain the problem with bronze parts etc to the man at Castrol and he
assured me that this oil will cope.
Hope this helps
John
i have used the coma gl4 75/90.without problems.
i now use shell fully synthetic 75/90 gl5 works great.
richard
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Hi all,
I'm in the process of looking for a TR6 to replace my Lotus Elan +2.
There seem to be a number of american re-import TR6s out there, many with conversions to the correct hand drive.
However I am aware that the US engines had lower compression ratio and power outputs and generally ran on Strombergs.
So, my questions are:
1) what sort of work needs to be done to bring the engine itself up to UK spec (is the drop in CR just different pistons or something more fundamental)
2) If I left the Strombergs is this going to be an issue with the increased Enthanol in fuel (those rubber diaphragms look iffy). If not, can SUs be used and would they be any more resistant?
3) If I wanted to convert to PI, I notice that refurbed kits are available, is it a "bolt on" mod?
(I am pretty reasonable at spannering, rebuilt a spitfire, elan and almost finished a sebring sprite replica)
thanks for any help!!
Cheers
Tim
early usa 6s up to about 71 had the narrow inlet ports spacing.they have a square inlet manifolds for the strombergs.later inlet manifold look like a bunch of bannas!and will be later type head. late usa cylinder heads have lower compression heads.any cylinder head will fit though,even from 2.5 saloons .and you dont need the block skimming just the head.no point fitting a early pi cam if you havent got pi either.
i have su on my car with a diy head porting job .cr and late usa camshaft, and got 185lb torque.145 bhp guestimated figure at the flywheel on the rolling road.car does 30 mpg on a run.
however forget what the engine is like, concentrate on the body, you dont want any rust to sort out.
richard
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Thanks Richard. That sounds quite positive, What is the load through the switch though on a J type. Was the switch originally designed to carry it or the load of the relayed design of the A type. Also because the G/Box and O/D wiring including the switch had been removed I've had to purchase new .The repro switch looks very flimsy.
Regards
Dave B
the a type solenoid has 2 coils,a large one to bang the lever into postion.[why it needs a seperate relay]then a small one takes over to hold in place.
i dont know what the holding current is for a j type.but it wont be much i guess less than 1 amp.
fit some relays on your headlights though.
richard
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Many Thanks folks.
Sounds like my car was like Guys, originally without relay (late 74). But as the G/box, o/d and half the original loom were not with the car when I got it from the states and the engine was rolling around on a pallet in the container I haven't got much to go on.
Original or not I take Neils view that anything with any amount of load should have a relay. So the decision has been taken to bastardise that bit of Auto Sparks loom and add a relay.
Guy. sounds like my J type is the same as yours with only two switches, one for reverse the other for 3rd & 4th. As it's only on the 3rd/4th selector rail the switch should only be made when the gear lever is on that rail but I take your point and will check the continuity or rather lack of it when in first and second.
Many Thanks Neil, Nick and Guy.
ATB
Dave B
j type doesnt need a relay.
the solenoid is complety different from a Atype solenoid.
which has to shift a long metal rod. and lift a short lever to compress a spring.
dont bother with the relay. less to to go wrong.triumph didnt fit one for a reason.
richard
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converted our early 6 from injection to twin s.u's, no drop in power, in fact it goes a bit better than injection if anything plus it now does around 30mpg instead of 17-18. also the swap to s.u's means it can be lpg'd easily so it runs for 60p a litre!
when properly set up twin s.u's take some beating for power and economy and stay setup for a long time, plus much cheaper to buy and maintain than dellorto's or webers.
fitting triple s.u's looks fantastic but doesnt really have any performance benefit and is much more awkward to set up.
to sum up i'd put the twin su, lpg tr6 up against ANY lucas injection car and know it will hold its own!
have you converted to lpg yourself. what did it involve cost any photos etc
richard
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Nick / Richard
Thanks for the replys regarding the cams, I was thinking about the 2.5 PI cam Chris Whitor grinds one to have more lift, it was set up on the rolling road, James from EFI Conversions tried setting it up at Harrogate this year but when I rebuilt the engine I fitted a light weight spider flywheel, so was impossible to set up, as soon as I got home changed back to standard and could see an improvement, but take your point about setting up on the road, that's problem two.
Last week went out in it when I got back could detect a misfire, removing the rocker cover found one of the roller rocker tips had broke off with the roller, pin and a small section of alloy missing, so engine front off now and cam removed.
Thanks for now
Keith
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the chris wittor ones are regrinds.newmans are new and were £10 cheaper.
richard
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Help or advice
I have converted my CP 150 to EFI system with a single butterfly system from EFI Conversions, although the system works well I have had problems at low speed, it snatches below around 1500, Dave from Emerald says it's down to the single butterfly and the profile of the standard camshaft, overlap of 70 degree, I was looking at the ones on offer from Piper (fast road) Kent (high torque or Moss (road 83) all have more lift slightly less duration and a lot less overlap, looking at the profiles I would like one between the 125 and the 150 cam.
Has anyone tried any of the above or got experience of camshafts?
Thanks for any help
Keith
if you want a cam inbetween the 125/150 you want one from a mk1 2.5 pi saloon exactly in between.part no 308788
i had newman cams make me one but i asked for 260" cam lift instead of the original 238"
the car drives nice,good at low revs pulls from a 1000rpm up to 5500rpm where i have rev limiter set.
timing 25 65 65 25. cam lift .238 duration 270. overlap 50
richard
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No, genuine UK car!
check the serial number on the head,it could have had a diffrent head fitted 15 - 30+ years ago ?
richard
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Chaps, my new(ish) TR6. Its a CP car so should be Overdrive on 2/3/4 but only works on 3/4. Investigations reveal the attached pics. The overdrive has the big brass screw at the bottom so thats an A type, but if you look at the pics the solenoid looks like a J type. So does the top box setup. Just trying to sort this lot out. The wiring has obviously been replaced (not well) so no clues there. and the diff is a 4.1 which is going off for a rebuild to a 3.4. The only reason for the last comment is I'm wondering what the gearbox is, ie has this been changed blah blah, help and or pointers appreciated
Regards
Robin
yes you have an saloon A type overdrive .dont bother changing the solenoid mounting it if works ok.3 and 4th gear
they are better than tr ones because the lever and arm is proteced from the elements.
but no doubt some one will say its not a tr it will hit the chasis or floor etc.
your problem regarding 2nd gear will be with your wiring and possibly lack of inhibitor switch on 2 nd gear.
richard
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i prefer the car with it on,much quiter less rattles and seems be more roomier.
plus its never bloody warm enough to have the hood down
richard
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Just a pointer.
If you are converting Innsbruck (T 2500 Mk2) diffs to fit TRs you need to remove the quill shaft spline drive from the input at the pinion, which means undoing the pinion nut which is probably a big nyloc. This, on a TR means the preload between the two pinion bearings is set by a collapsible spacer rather than shims and a solid spacer (diff pinions with split pinned castle nut were solid spacer type and the castle nut was tightened to a given torque figure)
So when the TR pinion drive flange is fitted there is little chance of getting the pinion bearing preload correct if the diff you are using has the collapsible spacer type pinion fitted. Just whacking the nut up till it feels OK is not on, there is not a torque setting for the nut, it is TIGHTENED ONLY to get a rotational torque figure for the pinion, which equates to the correct pinion bearing preload. (so many inch pounds) The nut must not be backed off if the rotational torque is exceeded, a replacement spacer is required and the whole tightening process done again more carefully!. (Just like IRS rear hubs) Backing the nut off will let the bearings run loose, leaving too tight will wreck the bearings quickly.
Best tip is fit a new collapsible spacer or a 0.010" shim on the top of the spacer (between spacer and small bearing) and start from scratch to get the preload correct. The shim I think is from an early type Stag diff pinion.
Replacement of the spacer can only be done after the small pinion bearing inner part has been removed from the pinion, which may well involve lifting out the crown wheel and carrier assembly. - If you are this far in reshim and repair the whole lot. At least you would know what you have got.
I am sure that there will be responses from those that have never bothered about bearing preload and their axles and hubs are fine - I wait to be advised.
Regards
Peter W
i have reused the the collapesable spacer on my diff several times.first from fitting the saloon diff to my 6.
then fitting new oil seals to stop that bloody drip 3 times now and a speedi sleeve.
idealy you should pull the half shafts out.less resistance to turning
tightening the nut a bit.then try turn the shaft by hand.keep doing this untill there is a bit of resistance to turning the diff
if you go too tight it will be hard to turn.
when its right its similar, to having the front wheel bearings too tight.
you only need a normal 1/2" socket wrench .no 3 ft long breaker bars or scaffold poles.
richard
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Hiya Richard,
The easiest way is to obtain a set of PI inlet manifolds. It doesn't matter if the butterfly spindles are stuffed as they are removed and the holes blocked off. The two pipes linking them are also removed and blocked off. You will have to machine out the injector holes to fit modern EFI injectors. You can then use a standard PI plenum and fit a 50 -55mm single throttle body (with throttle position sensor fitted). This appears to be the favourite setup by others too.
There are a few recent post's regarding EFI which you may find useful too.
http://www.tr-regist...pic=31786&st=20
With regard to the inlet lengths, you will increase the torque by having longer inlets but you are limited by the amount of room between the engine and the inner wing.
Cheers
Tony
pi inlets and other stuff goes for silly money on ebay knackered or not.
i dont mind buying junk ones so long as they sell for junk prices,but junk ones are never for sale.
i dont mind making some.
what lenght are your pi bodies..
the reason for making them longer,is to copy the SU manifold.
i think the reason the humble SUs work so well is due to the longer intake manifold.
i had though of making them as long as possible [room for plenum] and taperering from say 50mm down to the ports.
also which version mega squirt do you have.
cheers richard
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thinking of fitting efi to my car this winter.using one throttle body on the inlet.
already converted the ignition to megajolt.and that is A1
i have su on my car ,and so have no throttle bodies to modify.so intend to make some inlets
question is how long are std pi inlets between head and plenum
would longer inlets be better, ie more torque
would a tapered inlet be better.
richard
Valve guides
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by rpurchon
the ones i fitted were similar shape to these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-2-5-diesel-Valve-Stem-inlet-seals-x-4-/250992132809?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a704c02c9
very tight fit on the guide.probably need a set of 8 to get six on the inlets.
richard