rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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Hi,
Though not strictly related to the cooling vents I have been stunned by the difference that Cool-it copper exhaust wrap makes to under bonnet heat. In my last 5 there was no wrap and the heat from the manifold (SS Phoenix 6-3-1) was incredible. Mine is now wrapped in insulations and I would think there is no need to go to the extremes of making vents unless this is a race car and even then I wonder. Get more power this way too albeit minimal.
Highly recommended so far,
Cheers
if you want some cheap exhaust wrap try buying from the usa. $40 = £20 a roll in there local auto stores
probably work out a lot cheaper even with postage.
i was going to buy 2 rolls while on hols last year, but never quite managed to get back to a store.
perhaps some of our us tr owners could start exporting it.
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hi, simon the numbers are from moss catalogue.item 47 is reinforced plastic [delrin] i think.
item 49 bronze cuped washers,they do come in lots of sizes but you they dont stock them all.
i put a 3.35 diff in my car and they were 60" thou but worn down to 40".
the ones in my old 3.7 diff were also 60" but worn down to 50"thou. like a plonker i put
them in thinking they would be ok,only to change them a year later.
if you decide to fit them order some 60" thou and the next size up.easy to fit
once you have removed the diff of course.you dont have to pull all the innards
out from the diff.took me 2 hours to remove and refit.
[practice makes perfect and you arms ache]
my clonking symptons were, drive into garage/ reverse out CLONK.
drive of CLONK etc. 80% better now
richard
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Spoke to JDO instruments on Friday, They will do complete conversion for £60 all in .. Not really worth the effort of DIY for that price
Link is posted above somewhere
Cheers
hi yes i know him or rather he did my speedo.he is based in keightley.
yes £60 not bad but i would like to know how much/where you could obtain the bits.
ps i bought them pistons from you. richard
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does any one know where to get the parts to convert tachos to electric.
the dealers/converters get them from somewhere but where.or is it top secret.
richard
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if there is no bare metal on your car it shouldnt rust ?
i have a ex us 6 imported in 93. and its rusted away since.
it had been given a quick respray, instead of taking the wings of to get some paint on
all them hidden places where they rot away out of sight.
having renewed all 4 wings rear deck etc. its obvious why they rot away.
all them nooks and cranys where muck builds up
so i made some inner wing protectors from plastic water barrels.
i had to remove a rear one that had been on 2 1/2 years to fit a sill
and the underseal was as clean as when i painted it.
well worth the effort, as i use my car all year round.
richard
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i had similar clonking when driving of / change of direction.
i replaced the thrust washers on the sun wheels.items 47 & 49.in the diff.
nothing to do with backlash on pinion/crown wheel.
its a diff out job and the bits were about a tenner.
got rid of a lot of play and reduced that clonking sound.
richard
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I have recently bought a 72 CP series TR6. Someone previously converted it to twin 1.75 inch SU. Looking at the tags FZX1263F they are Saloon 2500 Triumph carbs. The car runs pretty well but is thirsty doing about 20MPG. I gather that with SU it should be more like 30MPG. The needles are very thin. Is the model of carb the issue or the needles and if I put thicker ones in presumably I'll lose performance which seems easily as good as a previous TR6 with injection albeit a CR series car.
i have ex 2000 sus on my car. bae needles = yellow springs=red 100" jets. 30+ mpg on a run.
try sort them out once they are set up there very reliable and efficient.
search the web there is tons of info on how to set up.
richard
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Hello,
When activating the fan the fuse instantly blows - all help with what I should check appreciated.
Thanks
Darren
i had the same problem, switch earthing on dash. richard
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hi guys,
thought I would ash my trusted colleges about the albertronic my friend is going to buy one, we discussed the for and against. the bottom line is has anybody fitted one. and is it any good
pinky
i have been thinking of fitting a 123 distributor.they seem to be good value at £185. sc parts sell them.
only problem is converting the tacho to electronic .does any one know where to get the bits to do a d i y
conversion. or would the innards from a 2500 saloon tacho fit.
there is a forum on the web http://www.123ignition.nl/forum/ some tr6 have been fitted with one
richard
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Anyone have a view on tyre sizes on 15/6 alloys?
205x60x15 seem to be the best fit size, anyone got them fitted and got any feedback?
Thanks,
Steve
205/60 rear 195/60 front ,on my 6. kn minitor rims. no problems on the rear.
but make sure the bolts on the front ball joints dont catch the inside of the rims on full lock.
i had mine the wrong way around.ie longer bolts on the outside.
swapped them around after scraping the left rim first time out. 205 on the front no problem
clearance wise but steering a bit heavy.but its heavy with 185 too.
richard
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here is a good tip if you are waxoyling your car.
if you have a gas powered bbq ,put the tin on it for a few minutes on low [without lid on]
and it will, for want of a better word turn to piss. you can get loads more through the gun.
or if you have a blow lamp/hot air paint stripper warm it up that way.
dont let the wife see you bbq waxoyl
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Well for the third year in a row, my TR6 has passed it's MOT first time, much to my and possibly the MOT testers surprise! However, I noticed that when changing to the electonic MOT format last year, there is a minor typo on the form - he has mistakenly replaced the 'O' (for overdrive) with a 'D' after misreading his own handwriting from the year before! Anyway, I thought that he could change it this time round? Nope - he accepted the mistake and tried to change it, only to find that 'the system' will only accept the change if he updates the whole record - at which point it refuses to accept the existance of the TR6 and insists it's a 7!
We agreed to leave it as is for now, but I am aware that technically the MOT does not match the V5 (although the registration is of course the same). What does anyone think, should I contact the DVLA and try to get it changed, or should I just ignore it and bask in the glory of having an MOT certificate at all?
Michael.
same problem with my mot. [missed L O of certificate], wait a few weeks and dvla will contact you,
ring them up and explain what the O stand for, and they will post you a new mot.
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Gasket is done, and think it still leaks even though put lots of Hylomar on.
Looks to be coming from the front, sure the front wasn't flush which is why.
are you sure its not the front oilseal or timing cover leaking..is hymolar silicone?
if so all the stringy bits will block the early oil pump filter [ did it on mine ] or get into a oil way.
richard
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hi, i have a 73> cc engine. reccesed block block crank pistons conrods. std bore and std crank will need refurb £30.00
you dont state where you are. cheers richard
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Hi Richard
Sorry to be a bit dim but could you explain how adding a third thrust washer helps. I 've never looked at mine in 30 years but hear plenty of horror stories about them so I guess I should pay them more attention. How does a third thrust washer aid longevity or stop the others turning/falling out?
Thanks for your help
Regards
Les
ok , every time you press the clutch and if you have std cooling fan the crank is pushed forward.against the
the rear thrust washer. eventualy the thrust washer will wear enough to turn and drop into the bottom of the sump.
and the crank will wear against the rear bearing cap. yes it will take along time apx 30 years and 1 month ?
if you have 2 washers at the rear it will take twice as long.
cheers richard
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Richard
Posted a couple of your pictures.
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Tim
thanks for putting pictures on. im not a computer nerd but how do you put pictures on? richard
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Has anyone done the sump gasket on thier Tr6, and if so how hard is it? Anything I need to watch out for?
Cheers
if you are interested or any one else? i could machine your rear bearing block to take a 3rd thrust washer.£15.00
i have done my own on 2 engines. and when done its one less thing worry about.
i would post a picture but i dont know how.contact me for a picture and more info.
richard rpurchon@ntlworld.com
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might be of interest to you. i havent got pi on my 6 but SUs.& odrive .
it will average 30mpg on a run.70 80mph on motorway.
the best it has ever done is 36mpg on a 3 day trip to wales tank filled to brim and refilled on return.
my father was driving it at the time.and must have had cramp in his right foot. richard
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I have a USA imported 1971 TR6 which is running on stromberg carbs which is misfiiring when the engine is wormed up.
I have a haynes manual detailing the carb adjustment requires a special tool and also a distant memory from reading Traction that these carbs are difficult to tune.
I am thinking of SU carbs, triple weber or converting the engine to PI to get more HP as well.
Looking through the techy stuff I have read to increase the power I will need a new cam and increase the compression.
Can anyone help with the best thing to do to increase the power and tune easily with an indication on price.
send for a moss catologue lots of good info on uping the engine . shop around for prices though. richard
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Been checking out the diff on my TR6 and I am not happy with the amount of slop before it takes up traction. The manual talks about spec tool after spec tool. Has anyone shimmed up the pinion shaft without resorting to the spec tools? If so how!
Mike
i had same problem, fitted a 3.45 diff. clunk when you change direction. replaced thrust washers in
planet gears item no 47& 49 moss cat.cost about a £10. cured the clunk.
fitted a drain plug in rear case at same time. richard
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whot kind of toyota is the release bearing the same as . thanks richardHI,Unless you ARE going to go for a co-axial release mech then you are stuck with the conventional system. I'd recommend you do the following...
1) replace the bushes in the bell housing (dont knock out the old one just push them further inwards) Revington do a longer bush I think which gives more support.
2) the cross shaft is probably not worn but may be rusty so you may need to acquire another but armed with a decent cross shaft don't rely soley on the stupid tapered pin that holds the release fork to the cross shaft. Drill the fork on the other side from the taper pin through the cross shaft and fit a mills pin.
3) Get the Toyota HD thrust bearing
4) consider a Phos Broz thrust bearing carrier
5) Use the TR4a sprung loaded and adjustable clucth actuating lever
5) Replace the clutch with a LAYCOCK setup and ensure you have the correct sizes of slave and master cylinder. Cant remember what these are off the top of my head Ill look it up and rpost agin if you dont know already
All parts available from Revington (but no I dont have any connection)
Hope this helps
CHeers
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Hi All,
I am thinking of installing an Oil Cooler for the summer. Can I ask from the wealth of knowledge out there :
a) Is it worth it ?
A idiots guide as to how it is installed , where does it sit and what does it fix to ?
Many Thanks
Jeremy
i am thinking of fitting a oil cooler,ive got all the bits. i have put a new dash in my 6 and fitted a oil temp gauge
wired up to sender in the sump. which reads correct. it takes apx 20 min normal driving to register on the scale ie 50c. driving from huddersfield to stoneleigh and back steady 70-80mph it read just under 90c .mad blast from york to leeds the other day 80 90 100 mph read just over 90c.
i dont whether it will read 15c higher if the temp is 15c higher in the summer.but i would seriously consider a temp gauge first.& definatley a oil temp stat if you fit a oil cooler & only a small cooler. no need for one in my opinion so far.
richard
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can anyone tell me where i can get a carb balancing tool from my ears are not as sensitive as they used to be.
Thanks
another method of balancing the carbs is to take the piston/damper out of the top.
fit some welding wire bent 90% into the carbs [bit of cork to hold them]bend the wires so they are
level and next to each other .start the car and if one carb is drawing more air ,it it will be obviously higher
costs £ nothing richard
Tapping with clutch depressed
in TR6 Forum
Posted
take the sump of and check if the thrusts have come out. if they havent but there is a lot of play fit some new ones £8. if they have see how bad the rear journal is for scoring.if its only just started doing it your probably be ok. if not new crankshaft. re front plate my car has rub marks on from chain tensioner.hasnt caused me any problems. fit a new timing chain and tensioner,you might have to fit some shims behind bottom sprocket after fitting thrusts if the sprockets arent in line.this will get you back on the road for the summer,then sort it out in the winter if you need anything else doing.
richard