rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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look and see if your wheels are KN minotor [minilight copy].
i have them and the nuts look identical, if so try watford classics,they advertise on ebay.
richard
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thanks guys.
HA HA not for sale
Running a straight through 2.5" exhaust. Its LOUD enough.
Not the Glove box. Tried that.
Sunvisors? i will try that
Only just put the roof on. Its ok for you chaps with hair. I get sunstroke on top of me dome. Yeah ok. I know whats next, but the hats blow off as well, and NO i am getting old gracefully. No syrup.
I think i am going to take the dashboard off and drive down the motorway with bits of cardbord to stuff behind things.
Noel
check the part the hood catches lock into in the top of the screen[catch plates]. i had a really annoying rattle with htop on,turned out to be the bottom captive nuts on the b posts.my cars quiter with htop on,i can now hear the quiter rattles that were drowned out by louder rattles ????? richard
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hi richard yes i did and very good it looks now it`s in the car think i willput the old oil pumpback in see if that makes any differance dont really want to put oil cooler in unless i have to
good glad its ok,the dash that is.
when you take the oil pump out check the gap between the base of the rotor and body with a straight edge.it needs/or can be made as small as possible 2 thou.the body of the pump needs reducing in height by maching or lapping to get the minimum clearance.or try the steel bits from the new pump in the old body if its the same later type.
i did have a article by d vizard tuning triumph 2000 explaining the pump mod .but computer recently gone tits up and its gone.perhaps some one else might have a link to it.
richard
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Hi I`ll try to explain start car from cold oil presure straight up to 85+ back down to 65-75 when warm at 50-70mph even if driven hard on single carriageway but if I take it on a long dual carriage or motorway for anything over 10 miles at a steady 70mph thats when pressure drops then when backon to single "A"roads pressure returns to normal It`s got valvoline 20/50 semi did have millers 20/50 both do the same
i fitted a oil temp gauge, when the weather is warm and mway driving fast for more than 10 miles the oil temp goes up to about 140.c and stays there even after slowing down for a long time 10 mins+.oil pressure didnt drop below 50.psi at 1500 rpm. however if i had to stop at a junction revs below 1000 rpm oil light flashing.
i have since fitted a 13 row oil cooler. now its too cold i have taped over the cooler and it only gets to 90.c at mway driving.if your thinking of fitting a cooler which would cure your problem fit a small one.
i would agree with the others, sounds like the oil pump.if its a new one its got too big a gap between the bottom of the rotor and base plate.which will not pump right when the oil is very thin.it can be fixed.
ps did i sell you a dashboard. richard
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i have a 2.5 s 219016 head on my 6 you will have to skim quite a bit of it to bring the comp ratio up.i skimmed mine to chambre depth of 525" thou.and they have the sligthly smaller ex valves as well.i have 3 different heads in the garage, looking into the inlet ports the 2.5s looks the best you can see further into them and see more of the valve than the others.if that makes sense.
i fitted unleaded seats myself, but fitted the larger cp ones. and used the smaller size valves.
i can all hear you saying why ? the smaller valves are lot lighter in weight. and they were completley non magnetic unlike the larger ones. 15000 miles later and no problems.
richard
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i suppose this is a long shot.
does any one out in carmel calafornia know anything about my 1970 jasmine yellow tr6.
unusual for a us car it had odrive from new.it was on the road there up to 1992 and the license plate no was 348 ERW.
isnt carmel where clint eastwood was mayor ?
hell he might have been a previous owner.
fingers crossed richard
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The bulbholders in my new loom for the 4 small gauges have capless bulb holders...... anyone know where to get some capless bulbs and what wattage ? The MES ones are 2.2Watts but I can only find 5watt capless.....
john
try veichle wiring products ilkeston derbys. they are on the internet or mail order.
good look with the screw in holders.mine were **** on my new harness .screw them in ,let go and they would pop out.
richard
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Hi Richard
Now I'm confused. I've just built an engine from scratch using a block serial no. CP76864HE. This does have a recess around the top of the block.
According to Rimmer Bros and Moss websites recessed blocks started from CP75001?
The Saloon block I've got in the corner of the garage also has recesses.
Not much help if you haven't got a serial number though.
Tony
mmmm thats why i put as far as i know. did it have the earlier crank and flywheel. either way there all the same.apart from the camshafts crank/flywheel ????????
richard
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a 150 block will not have a reccess firetrap around the top of the bores. head gasket without the tab sticking out the back. it will not have the strenghening rib cast into the lower right hand side either.
apart from the that only difference between a cp early cc and mg ser no is the numbers themselves.
as far as i know.
richard
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Thanks Richard one day I will get the hang of these computers - perhaps if you dont mind can you highjack it into the main forum section too please
unfortunatley not, no space left in the photo thingy. perhaps someone else can. richard
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i couldnt see picture untill i looked in your profile. so i have hijacked it for you. richard
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no problem, glad its sorted richard
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i posted earlier i have some top covers from j type boxs with switches fitted.
richard
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have you still got the pdwa valve fitted .this might be causing your problem. i junked mine and piped the brakes up as per uk cars.
richard
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i have some spare top covers.complete with slector forks etc if you want to try one. £20 .
is the lever that swings the reverse gear in and out bent .
richard
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Lots of overdrive info on here, and i did search the archives a bit, but have not been able to find what I am looking for. The gearbox is out of the car, overdrive attached to it, and i want to seperate the two bits. Manual says run car, switch overdrive on, push in clutch or some method like that. Obviously this can not happen. So, how do i go about taking the OD off the back of the gearbox? Any things i should look out for?
Thanks in advance,
Mitch
i have split about 10 jtype boxs.if they have been disengaged properly the gasket is all that holds the 2 halves toghether once the nuts have been removed from the adapter plate. if not, they can be a swine to seperate.
if so,try hanging the gbox [4" above the floor]from a beam/joist with rope fastened around the rear flange.then with rubber hammer.or block of wood and hammer knock the gbox down.it really can be a swine to split.. when they do part the gbox will fall to the floor without warning so dont hang it along way from the floor have a bit of old carpet below.or once you have a bit of a gap between adapter plate and odrive, try 2 paint scrapers in the gap and put a crow bar INBETWEEN THE SCRAPERS and pry aparat,keep moving to the other side.
richard
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hello,
my name is Jan and im a dutch TR enthousiast.
i recently finished my restauring project of more than 3 years on my TR6 C a usa import.
i installed a pair of SU HS6 carbs on the car.
the car has a Stainlessteel sports exhaust system and K&N filters
my question is, can anybody tell me by experiance what needle i could use?
im aware that every car has its own specifications and should be pinpointed to that. but maybe with some advice someone could save me a lot off time (and spending money on needles )
regards Jan
i have BAE and yellow springs. runs fine . richard
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****. my car came with them on.not any more.
richard
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But has anyone fitted the Triumph Logo Mudflaps from Moss to their TR6?
Just wondered what a 6 would look like with them on.
Anyone got any pictures?
Steve
****. my car came with them on.not any more.
richard
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i had similar problems with my odrive.the splines on the main shaft were rough/chewed up a bit to start with. and i couldnt get it to slide on.didnt want to make it worse.
in the end i pulled the odrive apart and built the odrive onto the gbox.qiuck and easy to do.
richard
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Hi all
Sorry to hijack - can anybody tell me which is flow and which is return on a spin-on adapter (Top or Bottom), as i'm trying to fit a stat myself?
many thanks
Dave
run the car a while and see which is the warmer pipe. that will be flow.
richard
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I don't think anyone who has ever owned a 2.5S would agree about "pulling like a train".
I've owned quite a few, (and I still have a rare estate one btw)
They are DREADFUL lacklustre units typical of the last (evil) days in Coventry producing bad cars that rot like mad...
I don't think you will find a single person knowing about those old saloons that would reccomend you to fit what is basically a boring old US spec engine to that car, complete with it's massive overweight flywheel, struggling to make 100bhp, when you could easily fit an early Pi saloon engine and run it on carbs.....
You can find a good s/h early 2.5Pi engine for probably about 100£ if you look hard.
With that Spitfire M11 cam they used...they go really well particularly on SUs, and will benefit from using either the original TR6 cast manifold OR the 6-3-1 design......in which case you may be able to wind it up to about 140bhp, -
but you will have to fit an anti run-on valve, for when you switch it off.
this might be of interst to others scroll down for camshfts. youve even got a mention g thomas.
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In life you can't have everything.
You can't have a top model blonde sex bomb as a wife and expect her to be faithful or not divorce you when she find a better man/more money/bigger house/larger garden.... (add in this space as you like)....
You can't have the accuracy of an atomic clock from an old Omega wind-up...
If you REALLY want Torque from 1500rpm and power to 5000+, then you have to get a car with a 4 valve DOHC engine, and a long stroke all steel bottom end of at least 4.0L, with a proper modern design of head and decent valve area.....
I can think of a few, but the one that springs closest to mind from Coventry was the AJ16 which finished production about 10 years ago, and that resembled the Jaguar XJ6 4.2L museum engine quite a bit which preceded it..
That is to say if you INSIST on choking DOWN the engine and detuning it (like a Citrouen CX), then you can't get it to rev too...
So the only substitute is doubling its size and making it INLINE not V
well ive never driven one with pi or webers so i dont know. so i guess its dump the SUs or be content with what i have got. richard
SU carbs
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
this any good. richard