rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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Thanks for your very speedy response.
Will do pricisely that.
If i need to replace those bearings, what size, or do i just put standard in. As i thought you could get various oversizes.
Regards
Guy
a word of caution.
when you remove the bearing caps mark them some how.dont put them back in 180%.and keep them in order 123 etc.
the mains will have a no stamped on them and a no stamped on block sump gasket face.
hope it makes sense richard
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Richard.
Try this link for trim.
http://www.dw-tuning.co.uk/shop/detailview.aspx?ID=1069861
Rhodri.
This is definitely worth checking at the same time as the other items. I can see where your coming from on this. I have two points of reference here. Way back when the project was started i had TRE check the chassis. Seemed to be OK. A good time later i had the wheel geometry set up on a laser bed. I am not sure, but if there had been any miss alignment front to back it would probably have shown up then. Generally and with limited equipment how would one establish if the output and input were true to centerline?????. There must be some reference points to measure from. As to parallel i would guess this may be done by simple measurement.
Noel
thanks for link. re your vibration. have the rear hubs ever had new bearings fitted.
if so, they might have had a good beating while been split . possibly bent or out of true.
richard
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the crank went that way?
or it trys to when you push it with the clutch.or the propeller on the front if you still have one.
definatley the rear one that gets all the stick.set up with std ones and go from there.
richard
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Tony,
We have all done dafter car related things
but have not been so daft as to post them on a forum
Alan
i primed my oil pump same method.wish i hadnt, not too much oil spilt .but getting the distributor drive in the right position what a pain richard
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when checking the thrust bearings it is the REAR one that wears away.
richard.
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Morning chaps,
The overdrive unit is a stag and the engine has been fully balanced. This problem has persisted through two engine, gearbox, and overdrive setups. The former engine was a full rebuild to 180bhp, and the current to 240 bhp with steel crank, harmonic dampener, stiffend block etc . I am pretty confident that the problem is related to the post overdrive area.
Thanks
Noel
nowt do with vibrations
where did you get the chrome gutter trim for the hardtop. richard
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Just posted a reply on the tyres thread. But i thought it might be of interest as a subject.
My 6 is fitted with a new gear box, uprated stag unit. A new overdrive, uprated j type. New standard propshaft. Rebuilt 3.45 diff with Quaife LSD. Quaife halfshafts and hubs. Wire wheels and eagle NCTs. Wheels balanced to the N'th degree. Telescopic shock conversion. Harder springs and lowered about one inch. Poly bushes. Geometry set up by laser. The exhaust is 2 1/2" stainless and soft mounted.
The problem. At 80mph a vibration from middle to rear of the car starts. This cannot be driven through.
Curative attempts so far.
1. Replace the propshaft with another new unit. No good.
2. Replace the diff. No good
3. Remove the LSD. No good
4. Replace the half shafts. No good
5. Replace the exhuast mounts. No good
6. Put soft mounts on the diff. No good
7. Rebalance Wheels. No good
8. Replace G box. No good
9. Replace OD. No good
10. Check chassis . No good
So i have booked the car into Vibration Free in Bicester. They are going to do a virbration analysis to establish the source of the vibration. Hopefully it will not relate to mechanical components. Then dynamically balance the wheels on the car. The process is not cheap. £100 for the first hour and then £50 per hour. But cheaper than messing about with as it has been.
I will let you know the results of the visit.
Regards
Noel
just a thought,
j type odrive the rear drive flange.is it a tr one or a stag one that has been altered, [ i dont know if they are the same as trs]
richard
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Help please - for all you officiando's out there - I recently bought a 2nd hand cylinder head and I'm hoping its going to be suitable for unleaded conversion. It should suit my car which is a 1971 TR6 150 CP. But it's very difficult to be sure that this head is the correct one. I believe it's off a TR5. Anyway my homework and comparisons are these:-
Mine has the following casting Nos. V3110, 201, 1998, 308351 and the stamped No. 516816.
This one has the casting Nos. V3119 or 3110 ? , A28, 1832 or 1882 ? , 308361 or 308351 ? and the stamped No. 516816
I'm hoping that the Nos. with the question mark are actually the same as mine with the exception of the A28 and 1882 (although I can't find any reference to them) , and I can't find any reference to V3119 or 308361. I have also noted that the 516816 is also the same No. applied to the PE126 2,000 cc cylinder heads.
Cany anyone shed any light ?
I've attached some pictures
Thanks Bill
all the info on cylinder heads is in the moss catolougue.it says 516816 is from a 5 early six 6. your best bet is to measure the chamber depth to make sure it has not been skimed down to a 2000 head.
i thought the late 219016 2.5s 2.5tc head was the best? if your paying to having uleaded seats fitted.
richard
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I use a Devilbiss air fed for all my spraying as a matter of course. the odour filter lasts for quite a long time. I dont have any personal preference as to make but I do like Devilbiss guns (VV expensive but I have used them for over thirty years)
The 2k laquer is used over waterbase because they have yet to formulate a waterbased laquer that will cure at a practical temperature. (early trials needed such a high temperature to cure that it was melting the trim in the cars!!)
Stuart.
yes im watching that mask.and there is another for 139. with two wall mounted filters + hoses etc.
i have a devilbiss gun or should i say my dad had one.but its a big bugger.
i have been painting the car panel at a time as ive been restoring it.
i got one of those dinky little guns that look awkward to hold, for the u coat, smaller to clean out.
but it really gives a superb finish, doesnt use bugger all air etc and seem to use that all the time.
US for anything bigger than a wing or door though.
richard.
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Best thing is to get a full face air fed mask. With the cost of paint these days its cheaper(about £100 with belt pack) and that doesnt buy much paint. That is the safest option and get some clear rip off covers for the visor as blow back is inevitable.
Oh and water based paint wont match as they havent bothered to formulate any colours before 1999 and you still have to use 2 pack lacquer over it!.
Stuart.
i have about £80 paint + hardner. i didnt know it was 2k laquer on water based.
do you have a air fed mask. i am looking at devilbiss or wilson.what do you think.
how long does the odour filter last.
richard
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I once painted a Ford 100E with Dulux gloss sprayed from a vacuum cleaner adaptor! Quiet surprising how good it looked & that the finish outlasted the 2 years I had it & the further 3 years with my brother in law.
might go to b&q get some emulsion paint mixed [water based of course for h&s reasons].
and seeing as its near bonfire night tape a big firework to the can and paint it mr bean style.
richard
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well after searching the internet the mask i have is not suitable for 2k paint.
what do i do, junk the paint i have [enough to finish the car ]
change to different paint, probably wouldnt match. go to water based ok but you have to put a laquer coat on.
or buy a air fed mask.
well i thought a air fed ask would be the best solution long term and cost wise.no more cartridges/filters to buy.
searched ebay. found just the job devilbiss air fed mask.bit pricey but hell ive spent silly money on parts and this might save my life.
checked out the devilbiss site.everything as it should be. mask filter regulators hoses etc. but not suitable for 2k paint.
why? you have to have a full covered visor to stop it going in your eyes and touching your face.
makes me wonder if the mask i have is not rcommended for 2k paint is for the same reasons.
if anyones interested the paint causes ocupational astma dermatitis and conjunctivitis.
richard
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Interesting info about buying paint, can anyone else confirm this?
I am, however, seriously concerned about your intention to spray 2 pack without an air fed mask & I can’t believe your paint supplier would be so irresponsible as to recommend a cartridge mask as being OK; what cartridges are in it? The French tend to have a bit of a cavalier attitude to H&S (no offence Jean) but I’m surprised the Germans allow it; are you sure your paint “bloke” isn’t telling porkies!
2 pack contains isocyanides (basically cyanide) & exposure to this stuff is not at all recommended. “Cough, cough wheeze cough” could be the least of your problems as it can bring on septic pneumonia (as Stuart says) &, worst case, can give you cyanide poisoning which makes you bleed internally until you die (very effective on rats I hear); hence the skull & crossbones on the tin!
Some are more susceptible than others but you can also become sensitised so although nothing may happen initially, you could have serious problems if exposed again or even generally later on in life; is it really worth it!
re the mask its a german made, moldex 8000. twin cartridge A2 EN141 filters. with pre filters cost £25.00.
pair of new filters which have use by dates £18.
i dont know what is in the cartridges.
when painting no smell or taste of paint.
the man in the paint shop. is mature and level headed.
regarding air fed masks, you would need the compressor pick up well away from where you are spraying as well as a filter in the line to your mask [paint and oil vapours from the compressor].
again what kind of filter.
cellulose stone chip acrylic aerosols [wd40 is apparantley v bad] they all have hazard markings on.
i have taken precautions , how many people do not.ie wrap a tea towel around your face.
if i were a proffesonal painting day in day out yes you would need the best.
i will have a search on the internet and find out if the cartidges are suitable.or if ive been duped.
richard
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regarding buying paint.the bloke who runs the local autopaint said.
joe public can buy cellulose, 2 pack, base coat & lacquer, etc basicly forever.
but if you are industrial user.ie car maker etc they can not.and have to use water based.
euro legislation.
re 2 pack spraying you need a air fed mask in the uk.
i have bought a twin cartridge mask that is legal in france and germany.
cough cough weeeze cough ??? so the bloke in the shop said.
richard
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Does anyone have Hardtop Fitting Instructions available. I am a bit lost on what to do with the soft-top retaining bar as it looks (read, not tested yet) as if the soft-top and retaining bar have been riveted to the body.
i presume you mean the piece of metal below the soft top rear window.
there should be 5 bolts holding the bar to the rear deck.look from inside the car.
unless like my car was, some arse had riveted the hood to the rear deck.
richard
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My 6 water pump has slightly noisy bearings and has no lubrication place. I see new ones vary a bit in price, from twenty something to forty somethng. Are there any quality variations or problems. Thanks. David Johnson
my pump is the same and ive noted the price difference.
i think the £40 pump will have a £20 profit margin.
richard
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id spray it in 2 pack.less chance to react .
if some one else is spraying it for you i doubt theyl walk round it all day giving it lots and lots of coats.
1 l etch primer. 2 l ucoat. top coat 3 litre should do it.=6 when mixed with hardner.
i have read but dont know if its right ,cellulose is not waterproof,i know it doesnt run off when it rains.
but it will absorb moisture.or let moisture through.
perhaps thats one of the reasons why the cars from 60 70 went rusty.
i dont want replys saying im talking bollocks,its just what i have read.
richard
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Richard that would be a great help. Thanks
Are your twin SUs on the early narrow inlet manifold?
The problem is not simple to explain. If you would ike to know more I can send you a pm
Many thanks
Tony
no i have the later wide port type.
when i changed cylinder heads i noticed there really is bugger all difference between them.
if you put the wide port gasket on a narrow head there is just a small cresent shape that could easly be removed ground.
pm your email and i will take some pictures for you. richard
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Are they many TR6 owners running US import cars that have been converted to RHD. I don't know much about this. If I were to look at a converted car is there anything I should be weary of?
On the carb front - I spoke to a very helpful chap from TRGB earlier in the week who recommend them, easier to work on, more reliable etc etc. I'd welcome comments form people who have owned carb version.
Thanks
Graham
i have ex usa car running on SUs 30 mpg. however ignore whether its carbs webbers pi.
get the best car body wise you can. you can change the mechanical side of things,
a lot easier than it does to tackle the dreaded tin worm. richard
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Higher lift ratios may not suit all cams - if they have a high lift then a higher lift is of limited power gain.
Additionally high lift rates may, on a cam with a steep profile, increase cam wear and result in premature failure of the cam.
yes i understand all that. but what gain would you get from these ££££ apart from quiter tappets.and very small increase in valve lift.arent they supposed to be a bolt on engine performance mod.without having to pull the cam out.
i would be a lot cheaper to buy the camshaft of your choice.richard
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what kind of exhaust manifold are you thinking of fitting.
i have twin su. i had a tt1200 6-2-2 and now phoenix 6-3-1.
there is more room with the 6-3-1. i could send you some pictures.
richard
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On ebay USA
Triumph TR6 GT6 TR-250 Roller Rocker Set Free S&H TR-6
Item no 250174050944
Has anyone tried these from the states? Looks to be a good price.
John TR6
they look ok. but i would want the higher ratio 1.65 ones if i were spending £££$$$. richard
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If unsuccessful tomorrow, shall post pics. There is little or no corrosion, retaining clip is removed and the pinion pulls out 5mm before striking something, could I use a punch from the reverse side?
Toyed with the idea of screwing in a thread remover this evening but reckon it would make an irrepairable mess. Still soaking in duck oil. Have belted the rack down onto wooden bench a good few times but plunger wont move more than 0.5mm, appears jammed on screw caps thread.
Might try alittle gentle heat tomorrow, very gentle though pinion casing looks like allumium. Rack is far from kanackered, just being lazy if going the exchange route, especially if there is a risk the replacement is a reproduction.
Appreciate the support
i swaped /changed the parts from my steering rack when converting to rhd drive.
it came / fell aparat no problem.
if it wont come apart there must be something wrong with your s"rack.
get a recon its not worth the messing, hassle ,or worry.
richard
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I'm converting my 6 from LHD to RHD and I'm not sure as to how the speedometer and tachometer cables pass through the firewall to get behind the dash.
I've read all the previous posts on this subject but none tell me whether both the cables enter through the one hole/grommet or is it one hole/grommet each.
All the pics I find on RHD cars seem to have only one hole suggesting both cables use the same entry point, but this seems a little tight.
Thanks as always
Dex
i swaped my car to rhd drive.both tacho speedo should go through the same hole. but its seemed all a bit tight /clutered.so i made a second hole for the speedo cable to the right. i can send pics if you want.
richard
Air Filters on SU's Which?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
if your any good at tin bashing make one of these. air box as wide as possible between inner wings. its about 10" deep.
4" pipe to a big cone filter behind grill. i used 4" pipe becuse its easy to get. the filter is green [brand] with obviously a 4" outlet and rated at up to 300bhp.or something daft. i figured it will never need cleaning. no induction noise and total cost £30.
i will make one in stainless one day. richard