[rear number plate]

This may seem like a joke post, but how do remove/refit the rear number plate ?

Mine has no external clips on the plate front, and there seems no obvious access from inside the boot. I,m inclined to think it is just two push-in clip fittings attached to the back of the plate but I don't want to force it off unless I know whats holding it there !

 

Many Thanks

Andy P

 

if its stuck on with silicone or similar, try dentel floss doubled up a few times and cut through it.

like a cheese wire

richard

[rear wheel wonky]

Hi all just been to see my friends rebuilt rolling chassis and the rear n/s wheel is wonky and not a little bit, it sticks out quite a lot ,if anybody has any ideas as what hes done wrong or what to do please let me know,

regards nick.

I will post a picture tomorrow.

Pictures of rear wheel.

 

my car is excatly the same when parked.ok when its driving.

it wont be as bad when the body is on. more weight.

there is even a mention of it in roger williams book.how to restore tr 5 6.

richard

[Curing Chronic Misfiring]

Doh! Thanks for the reply. That's so obvious I should have thought of it in the first place!!! I must be getting senile. Any ideas for where I can get the tacho converted and how, exactly, does it connect to the engine?

 

try www.jdo-instrument-engrs.co.uk he does rev counter conv.

richard

[Building oil pressure with a drill]

So today is the big day and I'm going to re-install the newly built engine into the newly refurbed engine bay

 

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/fos.../DSC_0005-3.jpg

 

The engine was assembled with lots of assembly lube and I have some break in oil plus a zddp additive that I plan to use for the 1st 20 mins. The instructions that came with the cam suggest running at 2000 rpm for 20 mins then change the oil and filter.

 

I would like to build some oil pressure and get some oil into the galleries and bearings etc before I try and start it for the first time (that wont happen until after next week due to work travel). I understand that I can spin the oil pump with a drill in reverse but I'm wondering how to achieve that.. with the dizzy removed and the oil pump/dizzy drive gear removed I can see the slot in the top of the oil pump so is this just a matter of fabricatiing a suitable implement to fit in that slot and chuck into the drill ?.

 

How fast does the pump need to be turned and for how long before I should see oil pressure ?.

 

Stan

i did this with my car with a piece of pipe & battery drill result oil up the pipe and everywhere.dont bother.

by the time youve managed to get the dizzy back in the slots.[you cant see the drive because it will be covered in oil] you wont have gained anything.fill the oil filter and do as richard suggests.

richard

[Erratic Speedometer]

Evening All,

Hope the following symptons can be assessed by someone.

At Christmas I had my speedo serviced and calibrated and upon refitting it it was fine for 2-3 months, however today when driving at slow speed the needle bounces ( and I mean bounces ) from 10mph up to 50mph and only when I throttle down and speed up does it settle and read correctly until I slow down to walking speed then it re-commences to bounce. Has anyone else had this. What does it indicate. I feel it could be the inner cable although I did remove it and regrease it at Christmas and it was OK then.

 

i had my speedo recal by jdo.he recons that [new] inner speedo cables are to long.

causing the needle in the back of speedo head to wear out the brass bearing ,causing needle bounce

solution only loosly tighten speedo cable to speedo. or cut 1/8" off inner cable.

richard

[Help - out of storage (10 yrs) and I can't access 3rd or 4th!!]

when i said have you got it hot, i meant the gbox.

if you cant drive it try chocking the back wheels up and

get it running.if its a stuck detent the heat will probably free it.

richard

[Help - out of storage (10 yrs) and I can't access 3rd or 4th!!]

Hi there

 

(first timer, looking for advice from knowledgable folk )

 

My 1973 125bhp TR6 (XNE 645L) has been offroad in professional storage for the last 10 year whilst Lisa and I have been distracted with 4 kids. Prior to that she had a full body off chassis restoration in 1992 and was immaculate and running perfectly when she went under wraps in 1998.

 

She was not run for the first 6 years whilst we were overseas but started pretty happily and without incident around 4 years ago when I first exercised her on the local private road for around 20 mins or so. Couldn't however get her into 3rd or 4th, nothing at all, but she happily went into 1st, 2nd and reverse. I assumed the soft mechanics had just faded and the clutch needed bleeding although the clutch seemed normal.

 

Have exercised her similarly once a year since then and each time the same problem has been evident. Having recently had her brought to my home I slipped her down to my local garage today who bled the clutch and replaced the fluid but it's had no effect on the limitations of the gearbox so my initial diagnostic was clearly rubbish.

 

On starting or driving I've not deteted any abnormalities, strange sounds, mechanical slippages etc at any time but now suppose something inside the gearbox must have siezed or slipped in some way.

 

Can anyone give me a steer as to what might be wrong - I've a reliable local garaage (who bled the clutch today) but they've no experience of cars of such age and my only alternative seems to be to have a specialist Triumph gargage collect her but you are very much in their hands at that point aren't you?!

 

All advice welcomed!

 

Thanks

 

Giles

(Newcastle upon Tyne)

 

any oil in gearbox.have you given it a chance to get good and hot.

could just be 3rd selector rod or detents [springs and ball bearings] sticking or possible even rusted.

richard

[Additives in an A type overdrive and back axle]

Hi,

Is there any issues with using a Wynns aditive in the gear box and backaxle of my 71 TR6

Any advice welcome

Thanks

Mike

 

i wouldnt put any in gbox\odrive. might make the od clutch slip.

richard

[S.U Jets and Needlessizes]

Hi

Can anyone tell me the correct needle and Jet size for a pair of S.U. HS 6 carbs... I have fitted them to my '73 TR 6 and seem to struggling to get them to run all through the range as they are not bad a low speed but oil up the plugs in the higher range

cheers Ian

 

i have bae needles and red jets 100"thou.

have you tryed screwing the jets up a couple of flats to lean the mixture out.

look at the recent post in the main forum re su carbs.

richard

[Four SeaterTR6]

that looks pretty good.if you saw it coming towards you on the road, you wouldnt even notice it was a 4 seater.

it a cheap austin healey 3000 alternative.

richard

[Making Drain hole if Diferential]

Hi

 

Has anyone ever made a drain hole for the diferential as my oil needs changing.

 

Any advice how to go about it or anyone who could do it in the North West.

 

Thanks

 

i fitted one to my rear casing 3 years ago. tapped it for a m8 bolt and it runs out fast.

m6 bolt would be better.how often would you change the oil?

make sure the bolt isnt longer than the case is thick.

use plenty of red hermatite around the thread and dont overtighten.

i recon you will be ok fitting one to the ally rear case without removing,

pour a pint of engine oil in after, and it would wash any bits of aluminium out,if there were any.

i wouldnt fit one to the maincase while fitted to the car

.there would be a lot more swarf,from drilling and tapping the cast iron.

iron fillings going around the diff.

richard

[TR6 Overdrive Logic Controller]

What does it do??

 

Rob

 

disengages the overdrive when you change gear.

you have to lift od switch up and then back down to engage.od

the warning light iluminates if the od switch is on. but controller will not engage the od

richard

[TR6 Overdrive Logic Controller]

Hi,

Has any one fitted one of these and is it worth it ?

Regards Mike

 

i fitted one to my A type and overall yes its worth it.

especially when accelarating and changing up into second gear.

got mine on flea bay. i also wired the warning light up.

richard

[123 ignition]

hi guys

 

just baught a 123 ignition system, have got the rev counter altered and I am ready to fit the new unit however i am confused on what setting to start of with

the car is a 1972 fuel injected system

 

thanks pinky

 

have you got a timing light . if so check and see how much advance and at what rpm you have before fitting.

i have been thinking about getting one .keep hoping they will bring one out with tacho drive.

according to roger williams book e and f would be the best settings.but the max advance is a bit late at 4500revs

e= 22deg@2000 revs 36@4500

f= 24 @2000 36 4500

or

2= 19 @ 2000 27 3000revs

i would be interested to hear if the car runs better how, difficult to set when its fitted etc.

richard

[Fitting Sprite gearbox]

I have just read some advice on fitting a J type overdrive unit including changing the mainshaft (which appeals because I know my current box is good) and it would appear that I need £850 worth of bits and would be better off changing the whole gearbox! I am really scared now, I thought I had found an inexpensive solution?

 

i dont know where youve got £850 from i would say £125 top

new rear drive flange £45

layshaft £25 full compliment rear laygear bearing £15

speedo gears £40

gaskets oil seals£25

the main bearings will be ok.if not use the tr ones.new ones not so good.

your tr6 box wont be as good as the sprint remember it will have bronze bushes,

where as the sprint has steel.plus it will have a higher first gear.[close ratio]

again id say pull the sprint gearbox in bits and get to know how it fits toghether.

cost nothing.

richard

[Surrey Top (Honeybourne Mouldings)]

Hi Richard,

From the picture posted It looks pretty good but I would judge it in the flesh before I bought. The only differences I can see from the picture are:

a, There is not SS strip accross the back of the hardtop, probably not to much of a surprise as I understand these are unavailable at present.

b, There is an additional 'STEP' before you get to the glass form the outside of the rear light . The original when fitted had the glass rubber to step 2 the picture appears to show it on step 3. This is quite hard to explain but in profile the original was

 

-----

I----Glass

however the picture appears to show

-----

I----

I-----glass

 

OK the preview shows it won't come out as I expected so you have to imagine each I is under the RH end of each line of ---

 

If you understand this you are a genious!!!

 

 

This may be done for additional strength as its plastic or whatever..

 

Cheers

 

yes thats as clear as mud. but i think i know what you mean.

an original glass would be larger than the plastic window and fit to outer step.

perhaps its made like that so if you had a proper glass you could trim one or more steps of,

and fit or bond a glass in place.

thanks richard

[Surrey Top (Honeybourne Mouldings)]

i emailed honeybourne mouldings

and received this reply. ianr how does it compare re looking like yours.

richard

 

 

 

 

 

Richard: Apologies for the delay in replying. I do not have any further photos at present.

Surrey Lid is brush nylon lined and includes rubbers ... £220.00including vat

Backilight Frame is brush nylon fibre lined. Includes perspex rear screen & rubbers ... £240.00including vat

Fitting Kit includes washers, chrome headed bolts/screws ... £14.00including vat

Exterior finish in white gloss gelcoat.

Manufacture time: 2/3weeks

If you require any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact us again.

Regards

Karen Weaver

[Fitting Sprite gearbox]

Sounds like a more complicated operation than I hoped. I am guessing that fitting the J type overdrive to my A type non-overdrive box would not be any easier?

 

no its not as bad as it sounds pull the sprint box in bits and have look at it.

and no way will the j odrive fit on the back of a non odrive box .it will if you change the mainshaft.

richard

[Fitting Sprite gearbox]

How can I identify whether I have the correct input shaft? There do not appear to be any identification marks on it.

i dont know what the measurments are.

you will have to measure the hole in the input shaft [where the bearing fits].

and see if its the same as the sprint box. if the tr one is bigger its imperial,

and will req a bush.moss sell them.

dont try and pull the input shaft out of the sprint box,it wont come out untill the

laygear has been droped into the bottom of the gbox.

if i were you i would strip the sprint box.have a good poke around and see how it all fits toghether.

check the 2/3rd gear for play[there will be some].but you dont want tons.

check the rear of the lay shaft/gear for wear.

dont be too concerned about the gaps between the baulk rings. push them onto the gear and feel how well they grip.they should stick if you push them on hard.

then order any bits you might need.

ors sheffield is best, get a new layshaft and ask them to test it for hardness.

the sprint box is better than earlier boxs it has steel bushes instead of bronze.

the gbox in your 71 tr6 should be metric unless someones been in there already.

+ you will need the nose from the tr box.

id better stop now, im rambling on a bit... richard

[Surrey Top (Honeybourne Mouldings)]

yes im really interested. i have seen a 6 in dark blue with 1 fitted and that looked v good.

there was a photo of a dark green 6 [aftermarket htop thread]and that looked good.

problem is my cars jasmine.and its sod law it would look an arse with one fitted ?

i wonder if the lid would fit in the boot or is that just wishfull thinking.

richard

[Surrey Top (Honeybourne Mouldings)]

Well Richard, looks like you and me are the only people interested!!!

 

 

yes im really interested. i have seen a 6 in dark blue with 1 fitted and that looked v good.

there was a photo of a dark green 6 [aftermarket htop thread]and that looked good.

problem is my cars jasmine.and its sod law it would look an arse with one fitted ?

i wonder if the lid would fit in the boot or is that just wishfull thinking.

richard

[Fitting Sprite gearbox]

I know this subject has been well covered but I have searched the posts and cannot quite find the answer I need. If anyone can direct me to some relevent information, I would be very grateful.

I have a 1971 non-overdrive car and a Dolamite Sprint box with J type overdrive. I also have a tr6 input shaft and layshaft gear.

Can anyone let me know the procedure for modifications to get this box to fit and what other parts I will need.

From reading other posts, I am aware of the need to fit a modified rear mounting.

 

you need to fit the tr input shaft and matching layshaft gear.[constant pinion gear]to the sprint box

make sure the input shaft you have is metric to match the sprint mainshaft.

the rear flange will need changing.or altering.

the speedo drives gears in the back of the od drive will req changing, remove rear of od.

or get the speedo recalibrated,

make up or buy a mounting.

you should be able to strip and swap the bits over in 1 day.

richard

[Surrey Top (Honeybourne Mouldings)]

Hi Tom,

 

I know from looking at past threads that you rate the Surrey Top highly as a mod. The GRP version is £240 for the glazed (perspex) back light and £220 for the roof. So £460 for the complete deal. For comparison, the same company offer a one piece hard top for £295.

 

i too would be intersted in any comments from some one who has one of these.

how does the roof panel fit in, how awkward etc.

any one got any pictures of one fitted to there 6.

prefebably in jasmine ? but i suppose thats hoping for too much.

richard

[brake disc wear]

It is just a round bush and I made them up in stainless.OK, you loose some of the steering lock to lock,but still quickly get used to it.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter.

 

the nearside was missing on my car.on full lock it sounded like the tyre was ploughing the tarmac.

so i made one up, guestimated the size,it cured it.

i was just wondering whether 22mm was the correct size.

richard

[brake disc wear]

Just change the lock stops to 22mm.

Regards Harry tr5 nutter.

 

are the new 22mm stop locks, just a round bush. not cam shaped as per original?

richard