rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?
yes they can rot BAD,all over
worst places are bottom of side windows starting at the b post rotting towards the rear.
the front nib [above windscreen]
base of the sloping bits that sit above the rear deck.
also check the 2 capative nuts that bolt through the screen are capative and have not been x threaded.
richard
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Ive been out today, the best day for ages. Noted again a tendancy to refuse to enter 2nd gear on the downchange first time, second time it slips in. On upchanges there is never a problem, and gear box generally very nice. Im going to put in a more powerful engine this winter, so if there is a problem it can be solved.Can anybody advise, Thanks David Johnson.
i had same problem with my rebuilt gbox.
hard to get into 2nd gear for the first few times when cold.
i put it down to oil too thick,as it was ok when warm.
i have refilled it with comma SX75W-90 High Performance Semi-Synthetic Gear Oil
you can tell its a lot thinner just by shaking the can ?
solved my problem and yes my overdriveworks spot on. [4000 miles]
might be worth a try for £10
richard
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Hello all,
I've also spoken to Honeybourne and they are sending an email with further details & a couple of pictures of their hardtop for the TR6.
Just wondering if anyone here has one or had any experience with one?
I've just read the latest TR Action and it does look pretty good, apart from issues with the fixing kit.
Cheers,
Mark
i was thinking about getting a surrey top from honeybourne .
here are some pictures from malvern this year.
might give you a idea whot a 6 looks like with one fitted.
i think they look better on darker coloured cars.
richard
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Arrrgh.
Well, here we are all dismantled, thought I'd just check the diff ratio before fitting it, make sure it is a 4.1, not that I mistrust the expertise of the seller.... rotate the flanges.... urrrrgg... check... double-urrrgh
... I drove 220 miles to collect a 3.7.
Oh well, at least it will be some improvement....
i had a 3.7 in my car.and i couldnt change gear fast enough? i fitted a 3.45 from a 2.5 saloon.
go a head and fit the 3.7 it will make a lot of difference.
it will be better than 4.1 which i recon will be **** on a road car,
unless you want to do burn outs in 1st 2nd at every set of lights and shag your diff mounts.
richard
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Hi Richard,
I'd like to give this a go before resorting to replacement channels. Where did you source the Velcro from?
the local sewing shop in the market. a job for her indoors?
you need 3ft per door and 2" wide is best. self adhesive.the softer loop part.
i scraped all the old off and gave it a coat of paint.
if the brackets are a bit loose, tighten the rivets up with punch before painting
then force the velcro into the channel and stick the remainder to the sides.
if there any left stick it to metal strip between the handle and lock.
it will stop it rattling on the back of the door card.
richard
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quite a while ago i asked whether there was any adjustment of the door glasses.
i had a problem with mine that it was tipped forward and caught on the screen frame.
most replies said adjust the screen frame.
i have just stripped and repainted my doors.
the problem was the glass was not fully seated in the metal channel.item 60 in moss cat.
also following a tip from a previous post,
i relined the felt channels with 2" wide self adhesive velcro using the soft hook type.
windows wind up lovely and smooth dont rattle. and total cost £1.20 per door.
hope this might be of use to others.
richard
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Thanks guys (sorry for the delay)
I put everything back together as far as putting them on the shaft, out of the transmission. I haven't check the detents/springs yet. I did find one observation. The 2/3 gear cluster which is still together I noticed a .009 maybe more play. In the "Official" TR6 repair book it lists between .003 to .009 play between the circlips/washers/bushing. Until I can get the darn clips off I can't precisely gauge the gap. The top hat is in place but haven't checked it.
The tranny has all new synchros/bushings and such and I've put less than 100 miles on the tranny because of the annoying problem, I gather the top hat bushing should be in good shape.
I've read that the gap here is critical since if it is out of tolerance can cause major damage down the way.
I'll let you know what I find about the spacing later on, may take me a few days till I can get at them (too many home projects going on).
re the top hat bush. if the bushes are STEEL the top hat bush cant be broken.
because they are the later 2 piece type.
richard
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Chris and Tom, unless I've got a totally erroneous idea of where the thrust washers are located (at the rear of the crankshaft, but on the inner side of the rear crank bearing) and would not be under any pressure at all when the clutch is disengaged (pedal fully down) as the crank will be pushed away from the thrust bearing. Also the fore and aft movement of the crankshaft can actually be measured by levering the crank/pulley fully back, and then depressing clutch to see what forward movement there is and how worn/non-existent the thrust washer is? Am I completely off course on this, and got things arse about face ............?
there are 2 thrust washers front and rear of the back main bearing.
the rear one wears away.and after a lots and lots of wear it can turn
and fall out.
richard
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i have su on my car with a late head and it goes v good see my rolling road post.
is there room for 3 strombergs/su on a rhd car.
i wouldnt go down the weber route seems like theyre as much bother as pi.
i wouldnt go mad re cam shafts. i liked my early us cam shaft.
the torque started at 1000 revs, ok might not give top end perfomance,but you cant have both.
richard
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The main reason this head is not recommended for performance improvement is that you can't fit the later (& saloon type) inlet manifold with twin SU's on it because of the narrow port spacing. This means you are stuck with the original short inlet manifold which is not ideal as you cannot fit SU's to the short manifold.
just my 2 pence worth.
the later su manifold or even weber and pi will fit the narrow port heads.
the bolt holes are all the same. the only problem is the inlet ports dont quite match up.
leaving a slight step the shape of a [cresent moon].if that makes sense?
the protuding segement could easly be ground away and smoothed into the port very easly.
its no more than 1/8" at its thickest tapering to nothing.
the other side could be filled with epoxy and smoothed to shape or just left as is.
i bet there are quite a lot of cars out there running with the wrong inlet manifolds.running just fine
with sus id bet they would run better with the saloon manifolds just bolted on?
richard
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check and see if all the springs and balls are in place. they should be 1/4"balls one might have been replaced with a different size.they easly fly away on dimantling. 3 on each synchro hub.some mention shims in the holes under the springs but i have never seen any.
check the bush [top hat] on the 2/3 rd gear.if its bronze in could have cracked and worn away.
richard
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Thanks Ivor, gives me something to think about.
Compression tests Nov 07 Cylinder one to six
Engine cold
Dry Wet
212 260
225 250
212 265
220 250
200 248
225 270
Compression tests today Cylinder one to six
Engine cold Engine Hot
Dry............... Dry Wet
242............... 250 285
248............... 252 300
220................. 246 280
246..................240 290
220...................232 278
242..................... 250 300
Hopefully going to borrow a mates gauge to check the above figures.
Clinders 3 and 5 seem to be a problem in the dry test cold, and in dry test hot cylinder 5 , and well the hot wet test???
Dont know what the answer is at present. Bit fed up now really.
Cheers
Guy
just out of interest my compression readings when hot are between 170 and 180.
its a new engine, done about 3000 miles.should they be that high ?
richard
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Thank you for all the replies which would indicate that my heater is definately not working. The car is a late model with a flat plastic cover, no flap. Should I start by changing the valve to see if that sorts the problem.
Richard, you mention flushing the system. Should I hang fire with this until the valve is changed and could you take me through the process which I presume is done by disconnecting the two heater hoses attached to the bulkhead. Do they both need to be disconnected together and what sort of pressure am I looking at. Also is this something that needs doing every now and then to keep the thing working.
Kind Regards to you all.
your best bet is to undo the bottom hose on the radiator.that way you wont get rusty water over
the engine bay.you can also give the radiator a wash out through the top.
fasten your hosepie to 1 of the heater pipes.
gently turn on the hose pipe if water comes through ok turn it on faster.reverse flush it through the
other pipe. be prepared for gallons and gallons of rusty water.
unscrew the heater valve and have a look at it.might be ok,they are hardly high tech.
the short metal pipe from the head will probly be furred up.
if you can get your hosepipe on this pipe give that a blast out as well,this will clear the head out.
richard
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I,m sure these cars weren't designed to have fantastic heaters but being on my first 6 I wondered if mine was actually working at all. Out for a spin the other night and just for a change it started p......g it down. Hood up, heater/fan on and all I got was a steamed up windscreen. Needed to open both windows slightly to circulate some air. Couldn't feel much coming out of the vents and there was no noise to indicate the heater was working.
I've searched some of the old stuff relative to the matrix/water valves but don't want to start playing around or any expense if this is as good as it gets.
As always your experience and advice in these matters will be most welcome.
my heater works brilliant .in fact it can get far too hot.
you should be able to hear the fan..
have a feel under the dash at the pipes going into the heater if they arent hot
probably the heater matrix full of crud or heater valve corroded shut. probably both.
rig a hosepipe up from in the engine bay and flush out in both directions.
new valves are about £12.
richard
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Whilst at Malvern last weekend I picked up an oil filter conversion kit at the TR bitz stand.
I have seen these kits fitted in two positions:-
Canister mounted vertically, pointing towards the floor.
Canister mounted horizontlly pointing towards the front of the car.
The second option could make filter changes easier.
Just wondered if there are any pros and cons of each mounting option.
Opinions welcome
AT
straight down is best, if doesnt catch on the clutch slave cylinder,
if not angle it forward so it doesnt catch.
richard
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100@125, whatever that is.
Gear 3
But my gear 3 is not your gear 3, how/if he compensates for that..... ?
I suppose I should have asked him what all the other figures mean, I'd somewhat lost interest.
I got a separate print of the torque. Peak was 88 ftlb at 2850rpm, then fell off to 75 at 3200 then wobbled around 75 until 3,900 then tails off to nothing by 5,700rpm. Can torque be grossed back in the same way as HP? If so that would be 113 ftlb at the flywheel.
HP peaked at 95 @ 5,250 but was above 90hp from 4,400 to 5,600.
Ivor
i have been searching the net re dyno dynamics machines.
it appears they do test them in 3rd gear.
i even read on one site they would get higher figures in fourth straight through the gbox.
in the right hand little panel on the test sheet.
all the figures seem correct re air pressure temperature humidity etc.
lower down it says shoot 6 on my test.this apparantly means the operator cant fiddle the results
to give higher readings.but this definatley isnt the case here with all the unhappy customers that i saw.
it was just the same 2 years ago at the rolling road.
a dutch bloke with a gt6 got 150 bhp.he definatley wasnt happy
a chap with a tr5 got 138 and he wasnt happy.
richard
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what torque figures did you get.
on your print out bottom left = id date time run in @ rr
what figures are under the in @ rr
mine say 100@125.
it also says gear 3 on the other data.
and im quite sure he tested it in 3rd gear.
richard
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when you had your gbox in bits did you check the spigot bearing on the end of the mainshaft.
this is a long shot? could your gbox mainshaft have been changed for a earlier imperial one.
a imperial mshaft with a metric bearing would be a sloppy fit.this would wear the flywheel spigot bearing out quickly.
if youve got a jtype odrive ignore the above.
on second thoughts your gbox would be very noisy and probably not last very long.
richard
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Nice figures! What camshaft is in it? It seems that your engine could do with a hotter camshaft without loosing much on the lower rpm range.
The maximum power is at over 5200 but is it possible that, when accelerating, you will tend to change to next gear at 4000 rpm already?
Maybe a hotter cam will give a sportier feel? No need to discard the SU's, unless you want the maximum torque at 5500 rpm.
its got a bog std cr cam in it.
i would consider changing it to a 2.5 pi saloon cam.
it would be half way between the cr and cp cam.
re the bhp figures max bhp above 5000+rpm is no good to anyone on a road car.
i am more impressed with the torque figures. spot on between 2500 and 4500rpm.
richard
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Richard
What was the difference between run 14 and 15 ?
run 14 was the first run. no adjustments were made for run 15.
probably better second run as it was idling for 5 mins while they tied it down,
and it would have blown all the **** out the engine and exhaust.
richard
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did you put your car on the dyno at malvern.if so how did you get on?
i was a little bit worried about putting my car on. half expecting to
to get embarrasing poor figures.
but i was v happy with the results.considering my car runs on SUs
and my diy head porting skills and engine mods.
richard
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Hello Chaps
Driving my new toy home yesterday and braking from 70mph in overdrive fourth to around 45mph on the motorway, flicked the overdrive off and encountered a problem. Having functioned immediately when asked to, so far, the overdrive hesitated for a few moments, before eventually disengaging. The way the engine note was wavering and judging by the noises coming from the car, it sounded as though it tried to disengage a couple of times before actually managing to do so. Unfortunately it then steadfastly refused to re-engage and is now not operational in any gear.
The car is a recent purchase and I'm currently running in a re-built engine and gearbox. Overdrive was stripped and flushed through while the engine and gearbox were out, and apparently looked ok. I suspect this might be an electrical fault. Its' a '73 CR series car with J-type wired into second as well as third and fourth.
Is there anything stright forward I can check, before I take it back to the specialist who put it all together?
Many thanks in advance
Andrew
sounds like an electrical problem and it probably will be.
check the earth lead .try running a live wire you can energise from in the car to operate the od.
take the sump of the off the od and clear the filters.
if you can hear the solenoid clicking and it still doesnt work.
take it back, or get your credit card ready.
richard
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Hi fella's, just removed the gearbox from the engine to check everything out and found that the pin is sheared that holds the clutch fork in position. I found a few references to this in the register archives being a common problem, but really need some advice on how to rectify this. The pin sheared about 1/4" down the shaft from the square head at a 45 degree angle. How on earth do I get the remains out as the shaft still won't slide out of the fork? Help greatly appreciated. By the way, I wish I was living in the Malvern area...sooooo many spares over there..lol
drill a hole in the fork and knock it out with a punch.
richard
second gear.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
if you have a j type box they will be steel.