rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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The choke is not on, even had it disconnected. I don't think it's the fuelpump pressure because the stromberg carbs I had before did produce the correct mixture.
But what do you mean by needle settings? What can I change or adjust at them? I can't seem to find anything I can adjust with these needles.
Or is it maybe normal for these carbs to run rich at idle speed and that the mixture will be correct under driving conditions?
check you have RED 100thou jets.[some one might even have drilled them larger.]
take the dash pots of and wind the jet up [inner part] so they are level with the flat bridge/base of the carb.
not just level with the outer [brass]part of the jet holder,use a straight edge.then turn the jets down
one turn.mine ran far too rich 2 turns down.
make sure the needles are set in pistons correctly.i dont think they can be fiited wrong though.
try a loose needle in the jets while you have them in bits.
i think they shouldnt be able to pass all the way into the jet.
you will be able to see the height of the fuel level down the jets while you have the dash pots of.
use a cocktail stick to check the levels.
i use red jets and BAEs yellow springs
richard
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This seems like a suitable place to ask if the top plate off a Dolomite Sprint gearbox is the same as (and therefore suitable to fit to) a TR6?
yes a dolomite sprint top cover will fit.and a stag,2000 2.5 saloon.
some have the metal plate fitted some dont.usually later gboxs have.better gboxs.
some might not have a hole and thread for 2nd gear interlock drilled out yet
later top covers will have interlocking switches in a different position to early 5/6.
some have switches on the side by gearlever .but they will all fit.and work.
richard
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SU's with manifold if i can source them.
Going to change over from the PI system to see what it performs like so as to get better reliability for continental touring.
Looking for touring and improved mpg rather than out and out accceleration.
Any help gratfully recieved!
Tony
dont forget to get a mechanical fuel pump. £20 new on flea bay
richard
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Hi,
Has anyone got any recomendations about taking the PI TR6 to an area with high ambient temperatures.
Look ing to tour the South of France in the summer and it can get very warm!
What if anything needs to be done to the car?
Oil cooler? etc
thanks
tony
fit a pair of SUs and enjoy the views and the xtra ecomony.
drive over the alps too, it wont conk out running too lean like pi
richard
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Hi all,
I'm having slight concerns with my daily driver. When i accelerate in the lower gears, the oil pressure drops right off before stabilising again. This is not during heavy acelleration, just moving away from junctions etc..
The car is fine on run and the pressure remains constant when accelerating in 4th. Is this something i have just noticed or should i be more nervous? I noticed the oil filler cap is leaking a bit so i need to sort a replacement, but surely this wouldn't effect the oil pressure significantly?
The car is a PI 125bhp.
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy.
sounds like oil pump pick up has fallen off.
on the bottom of the pump there is a short lengh of pipe.
on the end there is a wire mesh bulb shaped filter.
they are all screwed toghther.one or both have fallen off.probably the bulb..
obviously when you accelerate, setting off the oil slops to back of the sump away from the pick up.
you will have to remove the sump to check.
early cars have a differnt type of pick up.not as good though.
richard
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Hi
Just looked at the rockers and the faces are badly recessed where they are in contact with the valve stems
Question?
Can these be refaced,ie ground smooth or is the hardening only surface?
a few of mine were slightly reccessed .i cleaned mine up with a oilstone.
i presume mine took many years to wear.
i check them every year.3 years use and they are still ok.
richard
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Hello,
I will swap the Stromberg carbs on a US CF TR6, for HS6 SUs : the engine and exhaust manifold are standard, the exhaust system is standard but in stainless steel.
Which needles and dampers springs should I use, thinking I will use K&N air filters ?
Secondly, I have a pair of SU's on another US TR6, fitted with a 2500 saloon engine ("MG" prefix, I think), again with standard down pipe and exhaust system.
Which needles and dampers springs should I use in this car, again with K&N air filters ?
Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences,
Cheers,
Chris.
i use BAE needles and yellow springs on mine.
richard
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After all the work to set up the rebuilt engine, I took it out for a good run today keeping down to 2250 revs max.After 10 miles something happened and it started to misfire badly. I nursed it home, only just, for 6 miles.Nothing visible wrong no overheating, though the brakes had seemed rather poor. I neglected to check the oil pressure.I lifted off the rocker cover with some sixth sense and found two push rods completely free, one bent slightly. The valves look ok, not bound, collets in place. The adjusters are not disturbed and there is no way the straight push rod would go back, without winding them back
Does anybody have any thoughts. Are the rods not strong enough for the new valves and higher compression engine.Am I likely to have done any serious damage nursing it home. Thanks David Johnson
i had similar problem with my new cylinder head.
same valve, happeneed about 3 times.always when car not run for a few days.
and always after about 5mins driving from cold.
cause lack of oil, sticking/binding valve guide.
i fitted my own valve guides.normal cast ones from moss, but i had to buy 2 sets and select the
the best fit.some were too tight.i used the ones which were slackest.and that was using old valves.
and before any one posts a reply,yes i have the correct sized reamer.
didnt do it after apx 100 miles
road side repair.use the dip stick and try get some oil onto valve stem through the springs.
turn engine over until the other valve is down,
lever the valve down with the rocker using a screw driver/spanner. and put pushrod back in.
no need to undo adjusting screw.
i didnt bend a pushrod. if youve fitted any kind of oil seals on the guides i take them
of untill youve done a thousand miles.and if you have bronze guides it will sort it self out
after 10,000 miles.
richard
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Hi.
Started my TR6 yesterday after a winter storage of four months.
I noticed the oil pressure gauge showed very low oil pressure, even when the engine was cold.About half of normal indication on the pressure gauge,40 on cold and 20 when warm on idle.Very little difference on higher revs.
Question: Can I trust the gauge indication,are they reliable?
The oil pressure lamp went off when starting the engine.
Any of you who have had the same experience ?
The oil level is normal on the engine.
Oystein
change the filter and try again.
richard
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i an thinking about buying this what do you think
.......................................................................
http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanEliminator.htm
regards pinky
i made myself one of these and had to machine a recess in the back.
when you tighten the bolt and this washer/spacer it will
tighten up to the end of the crankshaft. if the crankshaft was like mine.
it sticks out 1/8" further than the pully.so it will not touch the pully.
and more importantly the bottom sprocket for camshaft..
if so you will need a big washer that will fit on the crankshaft.
the original fan extension has a recess.
richard
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Interesting comments - thanks. I hadn't thought of doing the gearbox myself, but now you mention it.....
Have you done it? Has anyone else done it? I guess specialist tools may be needed?? Cheers.
yes ive done a few .no special tools are needed.
have a go youve nothing to lose.
whot type of od have you got.
richard
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What ever has happened to mine affects 1st and reverse in terms of noise. A mate told me a similar story to one thread above, that the layshaft bearing has probably failed leaving bits everywhere. No I won't be driving it....
What does a typical TR6 gearbox overhaul cost?
Many thanks.
you say you can remove the gbox yourself. why not
have a go at repairing it yourself.they really arent that difficult.
and when you have repaired one you will wonder whot the fuss is about.
new layshaft bearings and gaskets will cost you less than £50.
that is a big saving.
richard
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Hi Chaps,
I have been getting a leak from the large brass drain plug thing. I did have a thin metal spanner that i got from one of the suppliers. Wasnt up to much kept slipping off. I thought i had tightened it as far as it would go
Is there a knack to this, or a special tool anyone could recommend or advise
I know Tr mark there territory, but this is a bit excessive and my garage floor is looking like an oil slick.
Thanks
Guy
unscrew it a bit and wrap some ptfe tape in the gap.
to tighten i use a hammer and a drift.
if the brass plug and the bottom of the odrive casing fall off ?
that last belt with the hammer was a bit toooooo hard.
richard
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Hi All,
I have a spare wooden dash, the veneer doesnt match on the glove box door and is a bit of a mess, really could do re veering........
But my existing dash is fine, so i was thinking of doing something radical to it, as an experiment
First thought , cover it in leather ethier black or red
or ally.
Has anybody seen anything other than the standard wood finish? Any ideas.
Regards
Guy
why not paint it in black crackle finish.
or would that make it into a mgb
richard
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Ive got an oil cooler to fit, but just pipes between it and spin on filter. Is this acceptable. Thanks David Johnson.Perhaps some time Ill be able to advise others, learning fast though thanks to help.
id agree with the others oil cooler not usually reqd.
i fitted a a temp gauge in the sump.and only ever got high
oil temp 130 c on long motorway run on a HOT summer day.
this was without a cooler
richard
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The dip in the torque and BHP curves looks like a gear change to me from 3rd to 4th.
ncoll
possibly. but mine was tested in 3rd gear.
richard
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Richard
But mine has Pi!
Though Pi could have a similar fault, to have by chance the same 'ditch' with two different fuelling systems seems unlikely.
So I fear it's not that!
ntc,
Thank you! Pm on way
John
could it be the exhaust manifold coming on song so to speak.
std cam sprocket.
richard
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richard,
That's interesting - you have exactly the same ditch in the torque curve between 2-2500.
What would cause that?
the chap at the rolling road printed me a graph with the air fuel ratio.
where the dip is, the air/fuel ratio shot up running v rich.
in my case he suggested i needed thicker oil in the dash pots on the
SU to prevent them rising quickly when you put your foot down.
it probably is partly that, plus its the rpm where the cam starts to come on cam.
cant say i notice it when driving though.
richard
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since i have put forward we need more rolling road graphs and car specs here are mine.
ive already posted the rolling road figures once.
engine rebored +20" and done about 3000 miles 170 ib compession figures
carbs SUs bae needles, later swept type manifold
air box fed from cold air from front of car via big air filter
phoenix 6.3.1 manifold to std type rear box.manifolds port matched,the exhaust needed quite a bit of grinding
219016 cylinder head from late 2.5 saloon skimmed apx 75thou.small [cr] exhaust valves with large [cp] seats
diy porting.3x angled valves and seats. valve and giudes shapes altered, im guessing stage 2/3
gt6 flywheel. dont think this will make any difference to hp.
lighter springs in dizzy but still got vacum advance fitted
cr camshaft.drain holes in tappets.
no mechanical fan and the heavy mounting.
a few gbox mods to reduce friction, with thinner oil. dont know if that would make any difference though.
richard
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Hallo hallo, listen carefully, I will say this only once :
May I state that if the power is bad, the torque is bad too 'per definition', because torque is about power x 1.36 when using
lb.ft and hp. The misunderstanding is that one can give away power at some high rpm to gain some torque at ANOTHER lower, more useful rpm. But at a given rpm, speaking in terms of torque is identical as speaking in terms of power. Both are the same AT A GIVEN RPM. When you know the power at a given rpm, the torque figure can be derived, and this can only be one torque value.
all well and good.but if they had cooked the cp- hp figures they will have cooked the torque figures too.
what we need is lots of rolling road data/graphs to compare different specs of cars.
there must be lots of people who have them, but are reluctant for whatever reason to share them.
then if you wanted to improve your car you could actually see what parts will achive ,whot performance.
so come on post your rolling road results and your car spec.
richard
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your readings are pretty similar to mine.i wouldnt take too much notice of hp figures
its the torque figures that matter on a road car,and yours are good at 150ft ib.
i am glad youve posted your results.there must be lots of other people on here,
who have had there car on a rolling road.but not put the results up, good or bad
it would be nice to compare other cars readings.but i think they will be all be similar.
dont forget the 150 bhp for early cars was a load of bull.
and if you have 125 cr car they are spot on.
richard
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I'm guessing I'll have to buy a few things from Moss or Rimmer Bros to make it fit correctly, will I also have to drill any holes in the body?
Any chance someone could maybe take a few detailed pics of a hardtop fitted & email them to me?
Cheers
PS: Guy: is your luggage rack listed on Moss or Rimmer Bros?
no holes to drill
when i fit mine i lift it onto car.
fit front 2 windscreen bolts loose.take care not to x thread. if you do x thread
when you try unscrew, the captive nut will come loose and spin round?
fit rear 2 bolts down into rear deck
if you cant get the bolts in you might have to adjust the screen.
tighten front/rear
take care the sloping bits dont touch rear deck. if they
look as if they are going to touch.you need some washers under the rubber
feet. mine dont come near the rear deck.it sits on the rear deck seal.
tighten the b posts down.
dont go mad tightening it down.especially front bolts,
as they are fine thread and you can really put some pressure on.
i cant take any pics, as it off the car while i enjoy all this sunshine.
i would love a copy of the proper fitting instructions if any one has any.
richard
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Hey Richard, nice to see you have a pic of my car ( LCC 524P) The British racing Green one in the first pic.....can I ask where you got it from please...? I have the original pic , but that was given to me by the previous owner, so could you shed some light on where the pic was available....not worried at all just curious.
and by the way the Surrey top is now off and I am selling it on ebay.
cheers mate
found the picture on a previous post .
richard
TR6 running far too rich on SU HS6 carbs, please help
in TR6 Forum
Posted
red jets are 100"for 100" needles. i know they make needles 80"diameter.
i dont know,and cant find on the internet,whether they make other size jets
i thought you could get 80" 100" 125"size jets.? but i might be wrong.
richard