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Posts posted by graeme
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I'm on Win 10 & Chrome and don't get the 'like' button.
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I have seen a quite a few North American TR6 pulleys and they all have been 'spoked' and I have two TR250 engines which also have the 'spokes'.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Graeme
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Many congratulations to Glen on his much deserved success in winning the 'Car Of The Year' award.
Cheers
Graeme
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In both of my cars I have installed a 50 amp strip fuse in the main feed. I used a fuse holder from Autosparks.
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/strip-fuse-holder-accepts-5mm-ring-terminals.html
The 4A has been like this for 14 years with no problems.
You could also use a circuit breaker like this.
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/50-amp-panel-mount-circuit-breaker
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi Roger,
I found on my TR4A that a couple of the large washers bottomed out on the studs before compressing the Superpro bushes allowing the diff to rock slightly. It was not easy to see that they were not compressing the bushes and I spent some time chasing clonks as you are.
I remedied this by purchasing extra washers and drilling a clearance hole allowing them to go over the step on stud, then fitting the standard washer.
Cheers
Graeme
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1 hour ago, RogerH said:
Hi Folks,
on photo #9 you can clearly see an access panel on top of the gearbox top cover. What is inside/under the panel.????
Roger
Hi Roger,
I have rebuilt a few saloon boxes and a Stag box, all with the panel. There is nothing under it apart from being able to see the three actuating rods. I have no idea why it is there.
Cheers
Graeme
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Pierre,
It is available in the US.
https://www.britishwiring.com/Dan-Masters-Electrical-Book-p/tr6book.htm
https://mossmotors.com/electrical-maintenance-handbook
http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials6.15/19.php
Apparently also available in UK.
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi Stuart,
The previous owner had cut the triangle supports to install speakers, so I removed the remains and replaced with a steel panel for rigidity. Then installed the ally panel above with rivets every inch, I had read that somewhere.
Hope it doesn't have to come out again!
Cheers
Graeme
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I have had a WOSP type starter on my TR4A since 2002. No problems at all and it has seen a lot of wet conditions and high temps in the South of France and California.
I don't intend going to Alaska to test its cold starting performance.
Cheers
Graeme
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Looking good Mark, you'll soon be finished.
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi Waldi,
If you come to BC again let me know and we can meet up. BTW, I lived in Hellevoetsluis and Brielle for some time while working at the Esso Botlek refinery back in the '80s. Really enjoyed my time in the Netherlands.
Cheers
Graeme
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7 hours ago, Waldi said:
Beautiful BC brings back sweet memories, I went there fly fishing in the Rockies just across the border with Alberta for trout and the Skeena region for steelhead many many times in September. Besides the excellent fishing, BC is everything the folders show you, scenic surroundings, and much more!
Waldi
Yep, certainly is!
Cheers
Graeme (in BC)
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4 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
I would go to to a different electrician. There is no 'clutch' in a starter and no solenoid in the OE one either.
The OE has a Bendix drive, that uses inertia and a scroll to push the pinion onto the starter ring as the starter starts to turn.
JOhn
John, the TR5-6 has a pre-engaged starter complete with solenoid.
The problem could be a weak/dirty solenoid causing a reduction in pull-in to engage with the flywheel. This could explain why it is less troublesome when used regularly.
Cheers
Graeme
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On 9/24/2018 at 6:18 AM, pfenlon said:
What spec is the engine, looks a cracker.
Thanks for the kind comments.
Pete, the engine is bored to +60 with County pistons, Wishbone Classics camshaft (WBC518v2), balanced bottom end and flywheel assembly, head skimmed to CR 10.3:1 with stainless valves, Phoenix manifold and exhaust. The engine originally had triple 40 DCOE Webers (Italian), so I have refurbished these and reinstalled. Currently the engine is fitted with a standard TR250 DD distributor which I bought from you over eight years ago before we left the UK.
On 9/24/2018 at 8:57 AM, ntc said:Nice
Atb
Good to see you back Neil.
Cheers
Graeme
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Looks great Len, good choice of colour.
Cheers
Graeme
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Possibly a fault with the ignition switch when in the start position?
Graeme
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Why not the same colour as the rest of the car?
Looks good on the Works' Rally TR4s, which are Powder Blue.
Ian Cornish
Ian,
I thought all the works cars used a hard top rather than a surrey top. Or did they have both?
Perhaps you are thinking of the backlight in body colour?
Cgeers
Graeme
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I have a pair of '69 seat frames, they are rusty and I am considering skipping them. Are they rare enough to hold on to or sell?
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi,
Have you completed the rebuild, interior, carpets, seats, hood, all external panels, boot & bonnet? Until all this weight is on the car, I would not be unduly worried about the positive camber.
If all the weight is on the car, the other thing to consider is the swinging arm brackets, they are different, have you got them in the original positions?
Hope this helps you.
Cheers
Graeme
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Graham,
I think only some moderns have a Torque angle, never heard of it for a TR.
Cheers
Graeme
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Andy,
As the last documented TR4 was CT40***, then your car can't be CT91380. I would suggest getting the registrar involved, a letter perhaps, and also the Heritage certificate and supply that info to DVLC.
Cheers
Graeme
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Dave,
What make of poly bush have you used? I have not had any squeaks with Superpro bushes, and in temps upto 40 degC.
Was the load on the suspension when everything was tightened?
Graeme
Screw Size
in TR6 Forum
Posted
According to the Moss website, the UNC screw was only used on very early TR5/250. The later cars and TR6 used the metric screw.
I have a mid production TR250 and will check the screws today.
Cheers
Graeme