graeme
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Posts posted by graeme
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Has anybody tried the spinners from GC360.
The wheels are 76mm dia in the centre but are not threaded so I assume the spinners are not threaded.
Worth a try if nothing else available
Graeme
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I use a Cometic head gasket on my 89mm engine with no problems since fitting. A lot cheaper than Racetorations although not sure of shipping charge to UK.
They are made to order so you can specify what size bore you require.
Cheers
Graeme
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LHD cars do indeed have the clutch MC mounted on the bulkhead and don't experience any problems.
You will find it difficult/impossible to to do this on a RHD car as it will foul the PI equipment, hence being mounted above.
Cheers
Graeme
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Worth reading again. Also the internet is littered with similar stories from other car marques.
G
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Hi Stef,
Motorsport Mick will tell you better, but I think this will effect bump steer.
If you only need 3mm put a spacer under the engine mount each side.
Cheers
Graeme
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I bought a replacement SKF front wheel bearing for my Mazda CX9, it was made in China so suspecting a fake, did some research. I found that SKF have a factory in China, so not all Chinese products are fake!
Graeme
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7 hours ago, Mike Powell said:
If you want to do a "full job" (as you will have to strip the suspension) i strongly recommend you to change the trunnion sealing rings associated with c), & the seal trunnion to vertical link.
Not sure if this is true for all poly bushes, but if fitting Superpro bushes, dispense with the sealing rings, they are not needed.
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi John,
Here a couple of photos of my TR6 during restoration. Not ideal, but I think you will get the idea.
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi John,
I would recommend the Securon belt model # 500/30. I have always mounted the reel on the wheel arch just above the rear deck.
Cheers
Graeme
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Hi Sean,
I would use Carnauba Wax. I don't think the manufacturer is important but that is the wax to use.
Cheers
Graeme
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Glass bead blasting is best for aluminium parts.
Cheers
Graeme
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I used Landrover mounts on my TR4A, been on 7 years now and still good.
Landrover Part # ANR1808
Cheers
Graeme
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9 hours ago, stuart said:
Depends on the final destination for the cars as well as German market cars the steering lock was required from sometime in the early 60`s so appeared on TR4`s.
Stuart.
Yes, I had a 1964 CKD TR4 built in Belgium for the German market and fitted with a steering lock from new.
Graeme
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There is a SS version available from Moss. Part # 611895
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bracket-hood-to-frame-stainless-steel-611895.html
Cheers
Graeme
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7 hours ago, Alan Cochrane said:
Well I've not managed to do anything yet because we've now bought a holiday home that needs some TLC. However tomorrow will be a garage day as will next Tuesday so happy days are back, at least temporarily. In the meantime my rebuild kit has arrived from Burlen.
I have managed to get my spare inlet manifold machined out to accept the HS6 carbs directly. The inlet ports on my manifold have now been enlarged from 1.5 to 1.75 inches. Has anyone else done this in order to get rid of the sandwich adaptor plates?
The machine shop even smoothed out the inner casting, all for £30. The manifold is an odd setup with only two stud fixings available for the original stromberg carbs-
The carb mountings are even different shapes for some reason.
Anyway I will hopefully start the strip down tomorrow.
Cheers
Alan
Alan,
That manifold look more like a Triumph 2000 or GT6 with smaller 1.5 inch carbs.
Cheers
Graeme
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That's interesting Stan, I can get to the main website using Home. I use Win10 & Chrome.
Edit: Just noticed there are two Home locations, one for the Forum and one on the top banner for the main website.
Cheers
Graeme
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When the fan comes on does it control the temperature or does the temp continue to rise? If it controls it then that is normal.
Graeme
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Hi Chris,
This a flange from a solid spacer diff. (TR250)
This is from a collapsible spacer 1976 TR6.
The collapsible one looks slightly longer in the seal area but I am sorry I don't have any measurements.
Cheers
Graeme
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Don,
Perhaps a diagram of how you wired the new starter would be useful.
Graeme
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Have you put the two large cables on one terminal at the original button solenoid?
Graeme
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Don,
Is your engine grounded to the body or battery -ve and is the ground in good condition?
Graeme
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The plot thickens, I had a look today and my TR250 has a 6/32 c/s screw. If this was later changed to a metric screw for the TR6, I would expect it to be 3mm
Cheers
Graeme
CP Burr Walnut Dash & Door Cappings
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Yes,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burl
Graeme