TimG
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Posts posted by TimG
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The fan is faulty, it does not always start & needs the blade flicked. I have ordered a replacement from McGill. In the meantime I will fit my override switch. I'm booked in for a Rally on 2nd June so if the new fan does not arrive in time I'll refit the grill & operate the overide then flick the blades if needed & run with fan on.
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I have all the bits to fit an electric fan override switch but things got in the way. Returning from a short run the fan had not cut in but I could hear a clicking noise it was the fan turning slowly. Next day I shorted across the the temp switch in the bottom of the radiator & the fan ran apparently normally. Intending to fit the override switch I checked the relay terminals & the blue wire to the fan has 12V when rad switch is shorted but now fan does not run.
Hopefully its a wire fault at the fan but I need to get the grill off to check. If I need a new fan its fitted in front of the rad so "blows", its mounted to the rad end brackets. There is no name on the fan just made in Taiwan with several strings of numbers & seems to be 12" & rad is 13" wide. Are there any things to look out for with a replacement? Likely it would have to mount through the rad like this one https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/12-universal-slimline-electric-cooling-fan-c-13-p-404 it has an 80w & 120w option which to use?
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Do you think it would come out sideways without dismantling rad & front end
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Paul were you able to extract the rack side ways or did you need to take out radiator & front end?
Tim
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I had a problem with my 3A, I could not get reverse. It turned out to be badly worn items 42 cap & 52 retainer cup page 86 Rimmer catalogue. Used items sourced & all well.
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Ralph do you have photos of the two mounting points in the floor & tunnel? Do the re-enforcement plates need welding in or are they just sandwiching the structure?
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On 4/3/2024 at 1:27 PM, stuart said:
Securon 500/30 is usual fitment, you will need to fit re=enforcing plates
Stuart.
The securon is intended for a vertically mounted reel with the swivel mounted on a door pillar above it.
Maybe a 3 point static belt like this.
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/classic_type_3_point_seat_belt.
I dont have belts so that is not a recomendation.
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I can do it on my own with my 1930 Sunbeam. The pedal protrudes through the bulkhead ( which is very far from being a fire wall) with a rope tied to it & passing round the engine mount I can pull the pedal working at each wheel.
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Are there any one man bleeding systems that work? I have a Gunsons kit that uses tyre pressure to pressure the master cylinder reservoir. I'm a bit doubtful the the metal combined reservoir is up to pressurisation.
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17 hours ago, EliTR6 said:
Somehow I forgot to order two wheel cylinders... Leaky one is now replaced and I found the clutch master cylinder was weeping slightly so replaced that as well.
I've yet to bleed the system, I'm going to be using a hand operated vacuum pump to draw the air out. Let's see if it works...
What is the pump you are using, be pleased to hear how it works?
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I found the grease access hole on my car has been welded up, I wonder why. Weld looks poor so I may be able to get it off without removing the tunnel & fit a rubber bung.
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My TR3A had a steering rack conversion in its native South Africa long before I bought it. This is now worn especially the L/H end bush, you can move the track rod up & down. I dont know what the rack came off, there may be some markings when removed. Is it possible to get a rack out side ways or must the radiator come off & thus the front end? It has an electric fan.
I see that common donors are a LHD Mini rack installed upside down, a TR7 rack & Mk2 Ford Escort. All will need the track rods cutting down & rethreading. Since Ford made Escorts in South Africa that seems a likely source. Are there any other possibilities for a source? With any of these are there any trip hazards that I need to look out for?
Tim
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In my experience Varta Batteries are excllent. I had one last 17 years on a vintage Sunbeam with no voltage control & that is what's in now. Another lasted 13 years on a Bentley S3, that unfortunately failed as soon as I had agreed a sale.
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Holden have this & several others if you are looking for similar not exact.
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/acorn-style-dash-number-plate-lamp-1
I fitted the interior light out of a Herald under the dash of a 1971 Spitfire.
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On 12/2/2023 at 5:07 PM, Smithfire67 said:
That's a good idea Tim. Did you find tuning this way to be effective?
The tube with mirror came with the colortune. It has worked well tuning my 1930 Sunbeam. With the TR you can see the view window but I have not yet managed to get it to run smoothly. Have new plugs to fit, I hope that improves running to get tune.
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My Colour tune has a tube which clips on the plug hex & has a mirror so you can angle it to view plug over the engine while adjusting the carb.
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It was -9C last night & never got above -4C. Fitting the new Champion spark plugs can wait.
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Peter I think its a standard coil, it was replaced, old one was Lucas DLB 105 , box says GCL110HP 12V high perf Lucas & in big numbers 134. Thanks Mike I had seen that thread.
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12 minutes ago, John McCormack said:
Why do people use 25 thou plug gap? The manual says 32 thou, which I've used for 48 years.
The Instruction Book 6th edition says normal use plugs Lodge CNY gapped 0.025". Not got Haynes manual to hand but I think that says 0.025"
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I have fitted the pressure regulator that has not solved my problems. Dan I dont think its a sticking carb float. In trying to get it running properly there has been a lot of starter motor churning with it eventually starting but running badly not on all cylinders initially & miss firing out on the road. I think there has been a lot of unburned fuel that has ended up in the sump raising the oil level & blowing out of the crank case breather, oil on the floor alerted me. Its not coolant as the level is steady.
I have been using NGK BP6HS plugs gapped at 0.025". I tried cleaning with brass brush to no effect, they are very sooty. Green Spark Plug recommend Champion L82C gapped 0.025. I am going to try new plugs before any further actions as its barely drivable currently.
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Ian do your frames fit perfectly? Do any adjustments before refurbishment.
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On 10/2/2023 at 6:29 PM, dpb said:
Hello,
bit of an ignorant question i'm afraid.
will tr4a wire wheels ( currently with tyres 165 HR 15), fit a tr3a (currently with very old wires and tyres 185/70 VR 15)
Beware of old tyres. there is a date mark near the DOT symbol on side wall.
https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/tyre-basics/tyre-markings-explained
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6 hours ago, RobH said:
8psi is way too high Tim. You probably need a pressure regulator:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/malpassi-petrol-king-fuel-pressure-regulator-king-pet
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/malpassi-filter-king-fuel-pressure-regulator-and-filter-243259/
I've ordered the Bemon Tweaks 67mm glass bowl regulator. I already have an inline filter in front of the pump so perhaps best to take that out.
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Rob I have had a look at the pump its no name & I cannot see any way to adjust delivery pressure. A check of the delivery pressure gives 8psi but that not be very accurate as the gauge reads up to 100psi. I have the old AC mechanical pump, but presumably that does nor work or why change it?
Lifting out the pistons I cannot see petrol in the jet tube where the needle goes. The pistons fall back with a click so not binding. I checked the rear float & it seems fine. I'm still not clear how to get both chokes working equally.
Electric fan / radiator
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Fan override switch fitted.