stu50uk
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Posts posted by stu50uk
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I've got the Robi 18V ONE+™ HP Cordless Brushless 41Bar Power Washer.
This is the higher power HP version, which is the one to go for. The less powerfull model is a bit weak according to reviews.
It is really a pressure cleaner. not a pressure washer. It will never replace a proper pressure washer and hose.
It is best use is a convenient power cleaner rather than running power cords and hoses out or as a remote cleaner in a place away from power and water sources.
I use it to clean out cattle drinking troughs, etc in my fields which are over 100m from power and a water hose.
I have a few Ryobi tools, so I am invested in the Ryobi battery system. The Ryobi batteries are as expensive as the tools, so this might be a turn off.
I got it direct from Ryobi (see above link). I would wait till they have a 'sale' that they have regularly have and get it cheaper.Here is a fair review on YouTube which sums up the device.
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I got mine by just buying the 200 piece socket set which was on offer at the time a couple of years ago.
www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-200-pc-socket-and-ratchet-spanner
I have noticed that not everything is cheaper with it. If the item is on sale is is usually cheaper to buy it at that price as the trade discount is only applied on the full price of the item.
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There are two versions of the support bracket from dashboard to floor for the TR4:-
Models to CT25934 the Stanpart number is 566108
Models from CT25935 the Stanpart number is 806506
What is the difference between the two parts ?
88 views and no answer.
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Looking through the Moss on-line catalog, I noticed there are two versions of the support bracket from dashboard to floor for the TR4:-
Models to CT25934 the Stanpart number is 566108
Models from CT25935 the Stanpart number is 806506
My questions are:-
1) What is the difference ?
2) Where are the Stanpart numbers located on the items ?
To add to the confusion here are two 806506, they are different.
The one with the blue background is different from the one with the white background, it has no moulding points.
The two side holes on the blue background dash support could have been drilled by a previous owner.
The TR4A 808882 has a gearlever shround and is usually covered in vinyl or leather over a foam backing.
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Get some Nord-Lock washers if you don't want anything to slacken. You can get them in stainless steel or Delta Protekt material. I got some off eBay last month.
If there is no space for a washer, use some Loktite and activator to hold it together. My Harley is held together with it, as correctly applied as per the Mantenance Manual, and Harleys vibrate quite a bit. -
Here are two possible solutions on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8y-dB9Z0L-khttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p58Y5qRd3OU
Just put ' waterless car wash ' into Amazon or other site and you will get a suitable product availible in Germany.
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I've used this before renewing the sealant around my shower. It did an all right job of removing most of it. I still had to use a scrapper for the stubborn bits.
2 x Bond It Easy To Use 125ml Silicone Sealant Remover Non Drip Eater Tool Removal https://amzn.eu/d/8okySCr
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
This is a very clever mechanical oil contents thingy. HERE
If there is low oil the barrel of the know when pulled is RED
If there is enough oil then the barrel is green
I would like it - but at £50 then I'll have to pass (I do have a dip stick)
Roger
Basically a tube that fits in place of your dip stick.
images taken from:- https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108283-more-tat-to-add-to-pile-just-treated-myself-to-a-smiths-oil-check/
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1 minute ago, RobH said:
Many people use a 25% to 30% antifreeze mix. The TR4 with heater has about an 8 litre water capacity so at 25% that is 2litres antifreeze to 6 litres of water.
Thanks for the reply.
Stuart
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1 minute ago, RobH said:
Ideally yes. In a soft-water area you might be OK with tap water but for most of us distilled is best.
How much distilled water and how much anti-freeze is needed ?
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Is distilled water with appropriate anti-freeze the preferred method to help stop any corrosion / deposit build up ?
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8 hours ago, Steve-B said:
Does anyone know a source of replacement bulbs for rectangular Cibie driving lights? Apparently they've been on my car since forever.
I was considering replacing the bulbs with LEDs and took one of mine on our 73 TR6 and now it doesn't work. Searching online extensively I've only found either cheapish Chinese units or round ones.
If you know a replacement bulb source, or unit I'd love to know about them.
The bulb is a funny looking mount on a little circuit board:
It is a H2 bulb
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Bilt Hamber Dyanx UB, UC, and S50 are all based on a lanolin derivative.
Some information on this website.
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/dynax-rust-underbody-prevention.425423/#post-5714382
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I've been after one of these as well. Looks a good idea rather than drill into your front bumper to mount your lights.
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10 hours ago, rcreweread said:
John - a few things to be aware and careful of :
1. The H frame aluminum can be quite brittle so be very careful trying the prise it in or align it with a screwdriver as a guide, as it will crack easily and many of them are already cracked around the bolt holes in any event .
2. The H frame bolts to a steel bracket which in turn bolts to the botton lip of the metal dash - there are some repro brackets about which don't look like a brilliant copy of the originals - I suppose it's conceivable that these ones could be a bit "deeper" and hence exacerbate your problem., but if so, you should be able to file out the mounting holes to fit.
3. The whole arrangement ( ie the Alloy H frame and the steel (radio) bracket) is often very tight to start with - I had the same problem on my TR4 and ended up having to use 2 bottle jacks on blocks, either side of the dash, bearing onto lengths of 2"x2" on the lower lip of the dash to spread the load - it took quite a lot of jacking to get the assembly to fit, but once done, it really does strengthen the whole bulkhead significantly.
Good luck - go carefully and it will work!
Cheers Rich
Thanks for the tips Rich.
I have to fit a H frame to my 1964 TR4 as it came without one. I hit a pothole on a run and it has cracked my windscreen in the middle.
I have obtained two H frames. One from a TR4 and another from a TR4A. I will send them for cleaning up and painting/covering as required and fit them later.
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Hi Tony
PM sent
Stuart Brown
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6 hours ago, stuart said:
You didnt by any chance drop the little foil cap off the bottle of additive in the tank did you? Or a DPO might have.
Stuart.
No I didn't drop anything inside the tank.
I actually won the TR4 in an raffle with Bridge Classic Cars. So I actually 'bought' the car for £16 (two tickets).
When it arrived the fuel gauge was low. Living in a rural part of Aberdeenshire away from E5 fuel I filled up a couple of 20 litre Jerry Cans with Shell V-Power E5 when I was next at the filling station and later filled the TR4 with a Water Fuel Seperator Filter Funnel to make sure the fuel was clean.
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Thanks for your answers. I'll check out the fuel system later when I have time.
Stuart
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3 minutes ago, RobH said:
Welcome to the forum 'stu' - do you have a name we can use?
Sounds like petrol starvation to me. You probably need to start by checking there is a good supply to the pump from the tank - its common for crud to partially block things, either the pipe or the tank outlet. Rubber fuel pipes can collapse internally. After-market in line fuel filters can block.
Does the glass filter bowl look clear and full? Is the gauze clean?
Are the carburettor float bowls clean and the needle valves clear?
Next point is the fuel pump. Thats a bit difficult to check at 30 mph though a partial dismantlement will show the condition of the diaphragm and the non-return valves.
Many Thanks for your reply.
Yes, Stuart is my name.
Would not fuel stavation happen at all speeds ?
Anyway it will give me something to look at.
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Hi. New Member here from Aberdeenshire.
My new to me 1964 Triumph TR4 has just developed a problem when running.
Up to 30mph it is fine no problem and good pull on the engine, but over 30mph there is a loss of power and a surging with a 'chug chug chug' sound.
Sometime it dissapears and the car runs correctly again.
The only petrol I have put it it is Shell V Power E5 and the appropriate amount of Millers VSPe Power Plus.
Any pointers to what the problem is would be helpful.
Under Dash Speaker Panels
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted · Edited by stu50uk
missed bits
The bracket ZKC401 just seperates the two speakers and also braces against the heater at the top with the rubber buffer 616233.
The two console panels (left & right) are slightly different shape to allow the heater air to flow.
At the end of the two console panels nearest the gearstick there are two 'hooks' mount it to the H frame.
There are also two mounting points two on the engine side of the console panel screw to bracket riveted to the gearbox cover (part 44, 45, 46, 47 & 48)
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600339
The original radio & speakers where dealer fitted and usual mounted under the passenger side (see picture).