r-fox
-
Content Count
15 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by r-fox
-
-
@ Repair sealing from outside of the OD housing , it depends where it leaks,.
Be aware that the operational oilpressure inside the J-OD is abt.500psi (36 bar).
Wolfgang
-
Hi Roger,
oh yeah , of course you're totally right.
Two solutions to overcome (austrian trolls told me)
firstly , srewing off the caliper and fixing it in a position so that the bleeding screw is lowest point.
Secondly, plain and simple turn arround the whole car in order to achieve same position as described above .
I really like your knowledge and thoughts all the time and your hat too.
Wolfgang
-
DOT 5.1 shows a higher boiling temperature than DOT4 when fresh.
An advantage under racing conditions.
BUT it absorbs moisture quicker so it needs to be changed in shorter periods of time which is not dramatic hence it's usual to check/renew the brakefluid of racecars more frequently anyway.
While water affiliates into a true solution with DOT3 - 4 - 5.1 it will stay separated from silicon fluid ( DOT5 ).
As a matter of theory the accumulated water tends due to its higher density sinking to the deepest point of the brakeline which is obviously the bleed srew . Thus easily getting rid of it while bleeding .
At the main restauration of my TR4 by the previous owner the brake system got filled with DOT5 of Harley Davidson , that was 1990 .
After 2000 braking with Dynalite , done quite a number of longdistance rallying, no issues what so ever.
Wolfgang
-
Hallo Laurent,
running in my oldies DCOEs and Dell'Ortos.
In order to understand your carb's issue I needed some details of your DCOE40s.
- how many progression holes
- Which idlejet-holder , size of idlejet
Wolfgang
-
Hello,
rough idle/ rocking engine at low rpm is also caused by carbs's missynchronisation.
At higher revs that is not so much prominent.
Maybe a different focus onto the issue ?
Wolfgang
-
It seems the mixture is rather too rich at higher rpm hence leading on to an "post-combustion" of unignited excessive fuel in the manifold, therefore heating up to glow.
Maybe the following helps:
- advance the ignition to 20 - 22° at 1500 rpm
- install a Lambda-sensor right at the beginning of the single down-pipe or in case after the merger of the twin-downpipes to the single exhaust pipe.
- Adjust the AFR at 3500 rpm to abt. 11.5 to 13.0 , that's the zone of best power performance.
Find out the matching needle and adjust the carbs.
- Reconditioning of the carbs is certainly a good choice.
Hope this helps, good luck
Wolfgang
-
Since 2010 braking by such an aftermarket kit using silicon fluid.
Do not use my TR4 in wintertime.
No problems, no complaint .
Wolfgang
-
Thanks Bob,
my TR4 1964 CT 26712 hence is a late one.
A while ago I went to our Automobile Club and let check the 4's castor.
Not unexpectedly it turned out L: +2°28' , R: +2°31' .
Thus no need to carry out any adaptions.
As for investing in a powersteering into the TR4, my dear wife means that I'm still in good shape inspite of knocking at my 80s .
And she's right , in June we happend to be on a 3500 km trip to Italy. The only thing we suffered from was the heatwave in those days.
A relief to know that even youngsters suffered transpiringly.
Wolfgang
-
Sorry no experience with Escort stuff.
But what i learned while using an electrical EZ-Powersteering from Holland in my Volvo Amazon 123GT is that the castor is very important to get the right behaviour of the steering .
The castor before the installation of the unit showed abt. + 0.5° only , obviously to overcome the steeringwheel's really strong and sweat-inducing turning while parking or during rallye-driving on windy and narrow C-roads.
After installation of EZ-PS it turned out that the handling happened to be much,much lighter what wouldn't have been too bad.
BUT at higher speeds the car didn't keep the lane but rather started to slightly swing left&right. Thus prompt counteraction needed all the time.
Eventually adjusted the castor to abt. 2°30' and the car did what I wanted. Handling not too extensive light but helpful and no more floating.
No idea what's the TR3A's typical figure for the castor .
As for the TR4's I got to know that the early TR4's have also got +-0° only the latter onces got the castor changed to 2,5 - 3.0°.
Unfortunatley an adaption for these Earlies is not possible.
By the way the EZ-Powersteering software has got programmed an adaptable support triggered by the cars' speed, the higher the speed the less the support. One also may switch it off the unit (what I do on motorways).
I like it since 2009.
Regards from Austria
Wolfgang
-
Hi from Austria,
with interest followed your discussion.
Here thoughts coming out of my experience with my classics a TR4 1963 and a Volvo 123GT 1967.
Both have got welltuned homebrewed engines, TR 150, Volvo 180 bhp .
@ running on, may also derive from sharp edges (i.e.hot spots) arround the combustion chamber remained after having flattend the cyl.head. .These should be radiused by abt. 2-3 mm , same to edges arround the plug hole. . I'm sure you 're familiar with.
@ ignition timing , I'm used to adjust with timing light at 21 to 23 ° at 1500 revs both cases.
@ plugs , Changed for quite a while from NGK BP7HS to Iridium type NGK BPR7HIX both engines .Excellent decision !
@ plug's colour , rather light-grey than flawn with today's fuels specifically austrian.
Some words to the fuel situetion here in Austria :
Thanks Goodness NO E10 in Austria . Run 98 octane (Super +) which is in this part of the world on a MAX E5-basis if any ethanol
content .
There are also brands having 102 oct. (Shell) also on E5. On vacation trips to Italy I take an additive octanebooster "104+" ( US made)
with me pushing a 95 ( E5 ) up to 100 octane.
That should not change acc.to the austrian authorities in regard of the supply of classic cars ! Nice isn't it.
Wolfgang
-
In addition , Ignitor I type , advance setting 22° at 1500 revs on 25D4, coil is Lucas sport (golden).
-
I run Pertronix Ignitor in my TR4 over 20 years and in the highliy tuned Volvo 123GT as well.
Bought with Retrorocket USA. Use NGK BPR7HIX Iridium - type plugs in both cases .
No problem att all.
Wolfgang
-
I'd take a LUCAS Sports coil DLB 105, Moss nr. TT2981, 3 ohms ,40000 volts.
You will be happy with.
When using a 1,5 ohms coil you need a ballast resistor also same 1,5 ohms , this must be bypassed by a relay while starting the engine.
Thus you get higher voltage to the coil's primary circuit which provides high voltage at the lead to the distributor then and that helps better engine starting ( improved igniting energy) under severe conditions ( e.g. in wintertime).
Right after release of the start button the ballast must be again connected in series with the coil, thus 3 0hms again system voltage.
hope this is of help
Wolfgang
-
Hi Rich,
I've got the same J-OD configuration in my TR4.
Just in brief, YES it is quite normal !
Anyway whenever changing gears in OD position ( 3/4 or v.v.) it is recommended to disengage the OD switch before shifting.
The OD's cone clutch wont be overstressed by shifting under load.
Hope this helps
Wolfgang
(Austrian member)
Curing oil leak
in General TR Technical
Posted
Talking of flanges, use new gasket and add some HELDITE from Revington to the gasket both sides.
Follow user instructions.
Based on my experience I may recommend.
Wolfgang