[Front lower valance availability]

Hello all, wondering if anybody has one or knows of one available for just the lower valance as referenced here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-908351

Thanks

 

Tim

 

[Inadequate clutch throw]

On 3/21/2024 at 6:37 AM, 87bor said:

Have you checked any play at the master cylinder.  The pushrod should be 81mm from end of spigot to the centre of the clevis pin hole.  Also there may be play in the pedal lever.  The hole become oval over time and you lose 5 to 10mm of throw on the pedal.  The photo proves my point.  New master cylinders are sent out with the wrong length push rod. You can go round and around incircles before realising this could be your problem.  Because it's new you assume it must be OK.

Your issue could also be down to a dodgy clutch assembly. 

I live in New Zealand and many of us are  reliant on Rimmer Bros for our parts.  Unfortunately the quality of their items has gone downhill over the years to the point that we are afraid to order from them anymore. We search for old parts at the Vintage Car Club and restore them whenever possible.

You can put up simple things like ill fitting dashboards and door cards, radiator overflow bottles with no thread (so the lid won't stay on), but when you buy their clutch kit and spend months bleeding the hell out of the system trying to get the gears to engage it can become extremely time wasting, frustrating and downright depressing when faced with  having to pull the gearbox out again. 

Luckily we have a clutch specialist in Christchurch who can rebuild clutches to a standard better than the original.  I would recommend anyone with the option to use someone like this as opposed to buying new.  Doesn't matter if it says Laycock or Borg and Beck on the box, that junk comes from China and you will be playing Russian Roulette.  Maybe it works and maybe it doesn't. If you lay an old original borg and beck clutch against a new one you can see the difference in quality. The pressure plate is lighter and the fingers are thinner. Release bearings are again a low quality reproduction. 

I was so fed up with sticky clutches in my TR6 that I ripped the Triumph gearbox and clutch out and installed a Toyota  W58 five speed conversion.  It transformed the car. That was 13 years ago and it has been maintainance free ever since ......and no oil leaks! 

Just like you,  a friend of mine has been going through hell with a new Rimmers Clutch in his newly restored TR5. The car is undrivable.  Having just installed a brand new interior he has to rip the gearbox out and find out why the clutch is so hard and snatchy and won't  engage cleanly. He should take the clutch to the specilist and have it assessed and if it is shown to be substandard consider suing Rimmers. I have always been suspicious that they send seconds or returned items overseas because they know we won't pay the courier fees to return them. 

Go onto the Trustpilot website and look up Rimmers and you can see how dreadful their reviews are. https://nz.trustpilot.com/review/rimmerbros.com.  Just like Booking.com any positive reviews are most likely fake. 
 

Its all fixed now as referenced in the thread, though thanks for replying.

[Grommet part number needed]

57 minutes ago, stuart said:

You will struggle to find those grommets Im afraid, the kit of grommets as supplied by all the usual suspects doesnt cover it either, the closest still float around Im afraid. Your better off looking at Electrical suppliers for grommets of that size, I bought a bag full for not a lot years ago and just use them up as I go.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart. I did fear that so will get down to the electrical shop for some generic plugs.

 

[Grommet part number needed]

5 hours ago, Martin50 said:

Tim, is it part numbers 600399 and ADA803? The diagram is confusing to me but looks like the plug and grommet?

I dont think it is Martin as they appear to be smaller unfortunately.

 

[Grommet part number needed]

9 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Is this what you are looking for

Item #4  Seal

 

Roger

I dont think it is Roger. That shows as only needing 1 and I have 2 holes. I looked in the fuel section and body shell section but am drawing a total blank.

I was thinking part number 78 here but it seems to be the smaller one in the corners. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/body-chassis/body-fittings/rear-body-floor-panels-tr6-1968-76.html

 

[Grommet part number needed]

Hi all, I had a fuel tank leak and am in the middle of cleaning up and I am needing to get the 2 x 35mm grommets for underneath the fuel tank and I cannot for the life of me find the oem part number as the parts listings or web do not seem to show them as the ones I need. One was perished and the other was missing.

I know 35mm grommets exist but I was hoping to get the original ones as the generic all seem to be inferior quality.

Thanks

 

 

[Inadequate clutch throw]

22 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Looks like the issue has also crept into the feet of the camera operator. Did you use appropriate protection ?

LOL, it really does!! Thats my 14yr old daughter who was reluctant to help her old man with the camera.

[Inadequate clutch throw]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

How about you buy a cylinder with a threaded push rod and suitable clevis then adjust to suit?

 

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/07-brake-and-clutch-master-cylinder-with-reservoir

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/516-master-cylinder-clevis

 

 

When I bought mine as a direct replacement a few weeks ago, I didnt realise I would have an issue and the push rod change was simple when I figured out what was wrong. With hindsight I probably would buy an adjustable one now.

[Inadequate clutch throw]

15 hours ago, John L said:

Could you measure the 2 pushrods please, it would be good to have a locked topic on this issue of the clutch parts for the 5 & 6, left and right hand drive as this does seem to come up quite often.

Unfortunately I have it all assembled with the my 'old' modified pushrod now back in place but with information sharing key to keeping these machines on the road and as asked, please find the new (unused) push rod length +-83mm and the old one about 10mm longer at +-93mm. It made the world of difference.

 

[Inadequate clutch throw]

Thought I'd bring closure to the topic now I fixed it and let all know what got it working. I needed to use the original modified master cylinder push rod as it was around 10mm longer (see photo) and engaged the pedal at a higher position. The photo is before I removed the new pushrod and measured but this quick check proved my thoughts. Not sure why the master cylinder pushrod was modified but clearly whoever had the car in the past had to work on the hydraulics and had the same issue and modified it.

Any way, all good now and thanks all for the advise. 

[Inadequate clutch throw]

1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Tim

looking at the Moss WebCat the SC goes in from the front of the bracket.

Is the push rod on the new SC the same length as the old SC!!!

Should the Bracket be fitted to the front of the GB flange or the rear face !!

Is it the correct SC - have you compared side by side.

 

Roger

I beleive I have the SC on the correct side based on other photos and feedback. The SC pushrod is the original one so no issues with that though I may well go down the adjustable SC push road route.

I havent checked the SC side by side but it was from rimmers and was a britpart with the correct Triumph part number. I think it a general part used an many vehicles based on my looking around, just with different OEM part numbers.

[Inadequate clutch throw]

10 minutes ago, PodOne said:

I had the same issue when I fitted mine using all new components including clutch and gear box. Your slave looks to be fitted correctly with the push rod fitted to the middle hole. You need to have around 15mm of travel. An adjustable rod might be required if you have slop in the linkage at the MC, is the clevis pin worn if so replace or weld up the hole and re-drill to accept a new pin.

I had no leaks but could only get limited travel of around 11mm the issue was that there was still air in the system and no amount of two man bleeding would get rid of it after advice from folk on here I bought a Gunson Eazibleed here;

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/gunson-eezibleed-321158.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Motoring>Tools>Hand+Tools>Specialist+Automotive+Tools-_-Motoring>Tools>Hand+Tools>Specialist+Automotive+Tools-_-321158&_$ja=tsid:|cid:17363835999|agid:|tid:|crid:|nw:x|rnd:6741221328669818442|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:1007188&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz8GuBhCxARIsAOpzk8x6xYi3OhawYb41r2_v1sL3F7Oh_cUZm8eHfuRqIIxMxm7tlMIU9PgaAu8UEALw_wcB.

After one use you could see the air being forced out just use 5psi rather than the recommended 10psi it works just as well and is less likely to leak. After which I had 15-16mm and the gears were all easy to get static and I've had no issues on the road. 

Let us know how you get on.

Andy

I also replaced the clevis pins so no slop at slave or master cylinder but it does make me wonder if I still have air. Certainly didnt seem to have when bleeding but you never know. I have an easybleed but found it threw fluid everywhere (maybe too higher PSI) so I used a vacuum pump and then the wife to help bleed by pushing the pedal.

[Inadequate clutch throw]

52 minutes ago, John L said:

How is the clutch pedal free position compared to the brake pedal, is higher or lower?

You may need to consider an adjustable MC pushrod, if that MC is new what is its length, the L/D drive push rod is shorter, (but same cylinder) and has been known to have been swapped, wrong part supplied.

Using the adjustable pushrod will take out any wear in the hole in the pedal, and so will give you back the original stroke length for the MC.

John

The clutch free position seems lower than the brake before I get friction and hydraulic compression.  Interestingly, this car was a European LHD many many years ago and was converted to RHD so I wonder if I have a different pushrod in the new master cylinder. I only know of adjustable slave cylinder pushrods, not master cylinder though its the master cylinder pushrod on mine that has been modified as per the photo. Seems I may need to take it all apart and do some measuring.

[Inadequate clutch throw]

1 hour ago, Steve 286 said:

Have you checked the bore size of the master cylinder you may find you have a small bore one 

The bore is .70 as marked on the one I replaced so I know it was a like for like swap.

[Inadequate clutch throw]

Hello all, Looking for some advice on clutch hydraulics. My TR6 is a rolling rebuild and the clutch hydraulics were weeping so I decided to the hydraulics, Master and slave cylinders and as the pipe snapped both ends when removing a new hose and and pipe were also fitted.  All was working ok before I did the work but now I dont have enough throw to engage the gears as can be seen by the video. 

Also as can be seen by the photo of the dirty slave, it was fitted the wrong side of the plate and also odd was that the master cylinder pushrod had a welded piece added. Any thoughts on what could be going on?

 

 

Thanks

[No garage for dry storage]

I have mine in a non heated concrete garage and have had it for 2+ years without any noticeable signs of deterioration. I cant comment on just a waterproof cover but the guy I got mine from stored it under one and chrome had rusted some but I am not sure how long they had been rusting before going under the cover.

[Fuel Tank to Bosch fuel pump hose]

4 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Whilst you’re under there, it would be useful to fit a fuel cut off tap so that you can change the filter in future, or fiddle with the system without flooding the boot with fuel.

You’ll need to extend the length of the tank outlet hole though as the tail lengths on the hose, tap and filter won’t fit in the short run that you have.

 

Great idea!! Thanks

[Fuel Tank to Bosch fuel pump hose]

Hello all

Wondering if anyone can give me the ID of the fuel hose from the tank to the filter as per the attached photo please.

For obvious reasons I want to order one before doing the job.

Mine is a little perished so I want to change it.

Thanks

Tim

[TR6 brake master cylinder lid]

.

[TR6 brake master cylinder lid]

Hi everyone

I’m needing a brake master cylinder lid that I can adapt to use for a gunsons easy bleed kit. It seems to be a need on this forum that’s been raised before as they are so large.

Does anyone have any knocking about they want to sell?

Thanks

Tim

[TR6 Gearbox cover]

Thanks all. I purchased the Racetorations one and it fits great. Highly recommended for anyone looking for a cover.

[TR6 Windscreen frame]

Hello everyone

My Windscreen frame from my 72 TR6 is pretty bad shape with flaking rust and rot in many places. I can fix most things with a welder and steel but with all of the contours etc I am not really capable of repairing it so wonder if there are any good second hand ones out there for sale.

Thanks

Tim

[TR6 Gearbox cover]

Thanks all. A Racetorations one it is.

[TR6 Gearbox cover]

Hey everyone,

 

I am needing to purchase a new gearbox cover as mine is wrecked and I see there are various ones available. I am after a split one for ease of removing but wondered if anyone has any recomendations on ones to avoid, definately buy etc.

Thanks

Tim

[Rebuilt engine won’t start]

1 hour ago, ntc said:

And how did you fill the system in the end?

Filled it Through the thermostat housing without thermostat in, connected thermostat housing and filled radiator and then blew through top hose with sealey coolent flush gun. Filled overflow bottle halfway. Ran car without cap on and observed very good fluid circulation. It burped and water level raised and lowered as expected. Put thermostat in when it cooled, Topped up and put cap on.

All appears good now.