[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Hi. As mentioned above I have fitted PU bushes to the front suspension on my TR4 and fitted new shockers. On reassembly the position of the the steering wheel has changed (i.e. the spokes are in a different position). This suggests that the steering  alignment may have moved but I cannot thin of any reason why this would be.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for the feedback/help over the months/years. This forum is a huge asset.

Robert  

[TR4 Front Flexible brake pipes - too short?]

The flexible brake pipes are to be returned to Rimmer and they have agreed to supply longer pipes with the same fittings. I am still a little doubtful as they could not tell me the length only that they were longer. Time will tell!

Thanks everyone. This is a truly valuable forum.

[TR4 Front Flexible brake pipes - too short?]

Thanks . The threaded ends of the pipe are different and have different thread lengths (as they should). One end is fixed at the caliper and the other at the metal flange where it connects to the metal brake pipe.

The flexible pipes were supplied by Rimmer so I called them today. They have referred the issue to their technical team promising that they will get back to me by email. Fingers crossed!

[TR4 Front Flexible brake pipes - too short?]

Thanks for the feedback. Here is what I have:

Total length (in mm):

Old pipe: 320mm. New pipe: 285mm.

Between the stops (in inches): 

Old pipe: 11". New pipe: 9 3/4".

Too short me thinks!

[Front brake pipe routing TR4]

The hoses came from Rimmer. I will give them a call today. 

[TR4 Front Flexible brake pipes - too short?]

Hi Folks,

I bought two new front flexible hoses part no. GBH206 for my TR4 which when fitted seemed short to me. When I compared them with the old hoses I had take off the new ones are indeed a good inch and a half shorter.  The part numbers all seem to check out fine so I am confused as to which is the right hose length although as mentioned the new ones do look short when the front wheels are turned from lock to lock i.e. the hoses seem to pull.

All thoughts, ideas and suggestions welcome.

Thanks Robert  

[Front brake pipe routing TR4]

Hi Folks,

A helpful conversation. But can you help me with something else please? I ordered two new front flexible hoses part no. GBH206 for my TR4 which when fitted seemed short to me. When I compared them with the old hoses I had take off the new ones are indeed a good inch and a half shorter.

The part numbers all seem to check out fine so I am a bit confused as to which is the right hose length although as mentioned the new ones do look short when the wheel turned from lock to lock i.e. the hoses seem to pull.

All thoughts, ideas and suggestions welcome.

Thanks Robert  

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Thanks Stuart. Really helpful on both counts.

Thanks Hamish. I will be sure to be gentle:)

Thanks IanC. It is actually the length of the copper pipe that I am looking for as I need to get one made i.e. the pipe that sits between the junction (on the chassis) and joins the flexible pipe connection at the hub?

Robert

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Hi,

Q: How do you spline the inside of the lock washer on either side of the trunnion (TR4)?

The hole is smooth when supplied.

Thanks

Robert

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Can anyone point me at a picture of the TR4 drivers side (RHD) brake pipe shape/route? This is the pipe that sits between the junction (on the chassis) and the flexible pipe connection at the hub? Can't see anything helpful in the manual(s).

Length would also be helpful.

Thanks

 

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Yet another question:).

Is it normal for the brake pipe to the front caliper on the drivers side (RHD) to obstruct the removal of the lower wishbone (when replacing bushes)?

I have removed the brake pipe already but it looks too short to me and I wonder if it is the right length and correctly routed. I will replace it with a new pipe anyway (one that is slightly longer) but would like to correct the routing if it is wrong.

Thanks

Robert

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Thanks everyone. It sounds as though all is well as I have tightened up to the shoulder (which is a fairly hard stop).

Cheers 

Robert

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Q: Does anyone know if there is a torque setting for the nut at the top of the front shock absorbers (I can't see anything mentioned in the workshop manual)?

I have fitted PU bushes and have tightened up one side but the top bush is looking a little squished and I wonder if it is too tight!

Thanks

Robert 

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Thanks everyone the support has been fantastic.

Prompted by the comments above I took a close look at the damper on the workbench (waiting to be fitted to the other side). No flats ... but it does have a very clever allen-key cut out in the center of the shaft. Very effective it must be said! 

It would have been nice if this had been mentioned in the paperwork that came with the damper though!

Till the next time.

Thanks again.

Robert

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Well ... I am please to report a small success as after a lot of fiddling around I have managed to fit one of the dampers. Sadly however the "two steps forward one back" principle has raised its head as when I came to tighten the nut on the top of the damper the entire shaft (on the damper) is turning so it will not tighten.  

It is an adjustable Gaz damper and comes with a nyloc nut on the top which of course grips the shaft and hence contributing to the problem. Not standard part I know but any suggestions as to how to get the nut tightened (preferably without taking it off again!) are most welcome? 

My best theory is that once the car is lowered off the jack the damper will seat and be pressed hard up against the top of the turret and I will be able to get the nut tightened but .... frankly I am not convinced!

All suggestions welcome.

Many thanks

Robert

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Great solution Peter W. That will do the trick for sure.

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Thanks everyone. I think the various messages above have highlighted the problem which is that a spring compressor cannot be used as it uses the space where the damper/shock absorber normally sits.  Removal of the damper all went to plan and without hitch. The issue is with reassembly and with everything else assembled on the car .... how can the spring be compressed enough to allow the damper to be fitted?

The answer as I had been wrestling with seems to be to use the cars weight to compress the spring but as explained this needs the grease nipple to be removed and the careful positioning of timber to jack up (or lower) the car which will compress the spring. Of course the car needs to stay high enough off the ground to allow the damper to be fitted from below.

Thanks for the support.

   

[TR4 Fitting New Shock Absorbers - Help please!]

Hi,

I have just fitted new bushes to the front suspension of my TR4 and the only thing left to do is fit the (new) shock absorbers. Simple you may say but please share the secret of how to get that fiddly bracket on the studs and the top nut fitted!

I guess the spring needs to be compressed with a jack underneath?

Where to put the jack though that will not break something (e.g. grease nipples) or obstruct the shock absorbers from entering from underneath the spring.

Thanks

Robert 

[Front Suspension Top Ball Joint]

Hi,

I am fitting new top ball joints to a 1964 TR4 front suspension and need help with a couple of (related) questions!

1. How do you stop the ball joint turning as the nut is tightened (to attach the ball joint to the vertical link)?
2. If this needs the taper to seat in the vertical link to stop it turning .... how is this done?

Thanks

Robert   

[Trunnion Thrust Washers - TR4]

Hi,

Q: Is there a right / wrong way  to fit the thrust washers or can they face either way (presumably they are not bi-metallic)?

Also ... should I grease the thrust washers during assembly or should they be left dry and clean?

Thanks

Robert

[Trunnion thrust washers]

Hi,

Q: Is there a right and wrong way around to fit the thrust washers or can they face either way (which may be the case unless they are bi-metallic)?

BTW ... should I grease the thrust washers or should they be dry and clean?

Thanks

Robert

[Front Suspension ... mystery thrust washer?]

Thanks for the feedback. Makes sense.

So, presumably it is best to leave things as they are?

Should I expect the other side to be set up in the same way?

Thanks again.

Robert

[Front Suspension ... mystery thrust washer?]

Help!

When I removed the lower wishbone nearest the bulkhead (passenger side - RHD car) I discovered that there are TWO thrust washers fitted next to each other. This was a surprise as I expected one as had been the case on the other wishbone (on that side).

Anyone any idea why this would be?

Thanks

Robert 

[TR4 Front Suspension lower wishbones]

Thanks Andy,

That was indeed the answer! Some general encouragement to part company with surrounding components .... with the aid of a large hammer:). The first wishbone is now released.

I wonder if you help me with a related question (which  I am about to post another cry for help on the forum about)?

When I removed the lower wishbone nearest the bulkhead I discovered that there are TWO thrust washers fitted next to each other. This was a surprise as I expected only one as had been the case on the other wishbone. 

Thoughts?

Thanks

Robert

 

[TR4 Front Suspension lower wishbones]

Any suggestions as to how best to release the wishbones from the lower fulcrum pin / chassis mounting points (to fit new poly  bushes)?

They just seem solid!

Thanks