Lo100469
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Posts posted by Lo100469
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Thanks Wolfgang,
we found some more issues while replacing the starter... it was a 5 hours job because the exhaust was too close so we removed it, and to remove the exhaust we pulled out the carbs. I bought a replacement OEM starter that was supposed to be refurbished but it was all sparky spongy.... it becomes hard to trust people those days. At the end i fitted a modern one because i want to be able to take it out in less than 5 hours.... so that is fixed, and working well.
Back to the carbs, we found out that the inlet manifold was not perfectly flat on the engine so the seal was leaking and the PO did put a good layer of silicone to cure the leak. I don't understand people sometimes... Silicone really? It is all properly back together now. The carbs will go for a full refurb this winter, the return spring is off, i prefer to do thinks correctly and have them done and tuned properly.
The car did not hesitate after replacing the seal, maybe i had some air leak while the carbs were getting to temperature and the block was already hot. We also changed the fuel filter so who knows as we did both at the same time. But i have too much rust in the bowl so that is another winter job with the tank....
thanks for your help all, i will report back on the carbs when i have them out again in November but all seems well at the moment, 300kms last weekend
Laurent
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an 80mm profile gives you compliance and some flex that suit the car well. i would not go to a lower profile but you will find many different opinions about tires.
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Alexander,
When you engage the clutch and engine goes down to idle, does it go away? If yes, this will be drive train related. You seem to have checked everything else.
Laurent
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I bought mine from Ebay. It is the same for the 4 and the 6, we just attached it the seat belt brackets on top of the wheel arch. You can operate the top without removing it, which is a 2 second operation anyway. As you can see, my other half has a tendency to occupy every space available...
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Hi all,
We made it back to Brussels in the heat. She used nearly no oil on the way back so i guess long distance did some good to piston rings.
The car never overheated (original mechanical fan) in any way. My partner just complained about the heat under her seat as the exhaust goes just there so i will see what i can do. We did 600kms on A and B roads, i think this is the max reasonable mileage in a day, maybe even a bit too much.
I will now investigate the hesitations when engins warms up based on your advise (filter, float height, ....).
A first long distance trip would not be a good one without at least one minor problem
We lost the starter after refilling in town after 10min of heavy traffic (just one click when you turn the key). The engine was really hot at that time so after trying a couple of times we just bump started the car and off we go. I then chose a good place to stop later and saw that the cable at the starter was lose. With only one spanner and the exhaust just near the starter, i did try to fix it but no luck. I can see the amp meter going into the + for 15 min after we left so i guess the solenoid is doing its job. I will check all the usual suspects (battery and earth cables, lose connexion, recharge battery, ....). I hope i can fix it because she is now in my underground garage and changing the starter there will be challenging..
I still would like to retain the original starter, dynamo and fan even if i see many of you upgrading to narrow belt, alternator and high torque starter. I'm hesitating to do the same or not.
Thanks again for your replies and have a good day.
Laurent
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Marco, Yes this is good news! and your anti theft device kept everyone away from the fuel tank
Marco, Stuart, I'm using a cheap plastic inline filter, i have a spare from my dealer with me just in case, i think they are like 4euro a piece. I will keep an eye on it then and see if i ditch it this winter. I'm still not sure why everyone seems to fit one while there is a filter in the bowl and each Weber has its own mech filter too. It seems like many had issues with those filters and the steel shiny ones seem to be even worse. Not sure if anyone produces a quality one.
Bob, i have been told not to use it because they work like a little carb and can be stuck open and cause the engine to run way to rich. I don't know when/if the carbs have been rebuilt. So i pump to a max of 6 times and the car always starts on the first try.
As roger says maybe i'm just on the limit when cold and there are a couple of hiccups then i'm ok when hot. I will check the plugs, keep going like this and probably have the carbs cleaned and refurbished when home. I also have an original AC pump i will have fit to replace the aftermarket one I have.
I will make a few checks then and see how that goes.
Thanks again,
Hope you are dealing ok with this new heat wave,
Laurent
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Hi all,
thanks to your good advice on tires, hubs, vibration, voltage regulator, i could prepare the car for the trip and we made it to Toulouse, 700 miles in 2 days in the heat without any issue.
Just added about 1/2 liter of oil to keep the level at 2/3, pressure around 50 at 2500rpm, goes up to 70 at 3000.
i had my chief critic officer with me
, and it was our first long trip with the car that is a pleasure to drive.
It is really hot over here, it has not rained in weeks as you can see from the picture.
Just need a quick advice. the car starts first try even after a week after 2 seconds and idles ok after a minute or 2. But i still have 2 or 3 hesitations when i drive the car from cold 2 or 3 miles from the start, maybe a bit more if i don't let the car idle for long, maybe less if I take off immediately. No backfiring sound, just a loss of power for a split second, then another one or 2 a few seconds later, and it goes away. I 'm on Weber 40 DCOE (i never use the enrichment system), mechanical fuel pump (clear bowl), new inline filter between pump and carbs), 123 electronic ignition, original belt drive and dynamo, battery is fully charged, new hot wires (no difference).
I was hoping it would go away after a few tanks of fresh 98 but no change.
I'm tempted to leave it like that as the car does it since April and it is not getting worse, could it be the Weber's needing some heat to help with proper vaporisation? When hot everything works fine, with just a small hesitation from low RPM on light throttle that seems to be common with Weber. if i give more gas, they run great at any RPM.
Cheers from
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On 7/23/2022 at 12:10 PM, Andy Moltu said:
There is a huge difference in feel between different makes of tyres in the same size.
Bear in mind when fitting modern tyre sizes, some are intended for heavier vehicles.
Over the years I have run the 6 on 165 Mitchelins (can’t recall the exact spec as it was 35 years ago) and my verdict was between s***te & shocking. Then 185 Goodyear which were ok. Then 195/65/15 Kelly which had good grip but the sidewalls were a bit soft which gave a strange feel. Avon ZV1s 195/65/15 which were lovely both in the dry and the wet. Replaced by the Falken 195/65/15 which are just a bit hard feeling.
The 4A had 165 Mitchelin (XAS I think) which were shockingly devoid of grip. Not great in the dry but frankly dangerous at 30mph on a wet road. Yes they were past their best but barely used and negligible exposure to UV light. Now on Bridgestone Turanza 195/65/15 and infinitely nicer to drive.
I am not concerned that it is overly heavy to drive let alone thinking about a PAS conversion. Having said that I. Can appreciate that those who have never experienced cars without PAS might find any of the TRs heavy at low speed.
Hi,
my 2 cents on a topic that could run forever...
I run my 4A on 165 Michelin XAS and find them very good in the dry, i still have to try them on the wet. They are not "shockingly devoiding of grip" to me.
Yesterday i tried a higher pressure as we have a long trip planned. at 2 bar (29 psi) rear, i already feel it is too harsh for the chassis and suspension and the ride quality suffers. I cannot even imagine driving 65 stiff modern profiles. The chassis designed in the 60's calls for high profile tires at low pressure. That way you have a smooth, predictable behaviour which i like.
But the 4A is a touring machine for me, i don't have to drive it very fast to enjoy driving it.
cheers,
Laurent
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vibration on mine was a combination of every single possible source
- replaced and balanced tires, better but not quite good enough
- replaced prop shaft and moved to CV joins including new rear hubs, another improvement but still not perfect
- replaced front bearings made a small improvement
- replaced wheels - finally all perfect with no vibration at any speed!
good lucking tracking the source, may be coming from multiple places.
cheers,
Laurent
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Hi Phil,
As much as I agree with Marco and others about starting with the best car you can afford, once you have made the call, I would start with everything safety/reliability related.
Went there last year on my 4 that was supposedly very good and went through MOT in 2 European countries without any other comment than "oil leak below engine". One bolt was missing from the front suspension, brake and clutch fluids were long gone, fuel lines too, tires were 12 years old, too much play in transmission from UJ's.
So i would not start with the engine but would make sure the car is safe to drive and enjoy it before thinking about PI, Webers, head cam,
And yes i'm way over initial budget by i knew it and was ok with that.
cheers.
Laurent
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there is also a TR5, lot 140.
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There were cases of inline fuel filter failing and blocking fuel, you may also replace the filter, they are cheap. Also, my car did sit for almost a year without running and i had a couple of strong hiccups after climbing the ramp exiting the garage. I probably disturbed dirt in fuel either in the carb bowls or at the pump or in the tank. This disappeared as i drive the car every week now, but we had to clean the bowl near the pump. So that ca be fuel related as it does not take much to block the flow, but i'm also more convinced it is an electrical issue. If it was my car i would make sure the battery is fully charged, replace the coil, plugs, rotor and wires and check all electrical connections including ground and retest.
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Hello,
Are you saying you don't find the switch on the old one? I may be wrong but i believe the switch on the early ones was accessible from under the unit, and has moved to the side on version 2 (that is the one i have, you just need an alen key to access it).
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Dave
Same here, I let the car idle for a few minutes before i take off as i have a very steep garage encline. Water temp is already 1/3 after 3 minutes and does not move unless I hit traffic and then it goes to 1/2 (dynamo/large belt/mechanical fan).
and as you I tend to worry about nearly everything
and reading the forum makes it worse as we talk about issues rather than trouble free miles...
cheers
Laurent
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As i was facing some vibrations at around 65mph (despite new tires and balanced wheels) i started investigating how to change wheel bearing front and rear. After reading this post i decided to change the rear hubs and shafts for upgraded CV ones. I believe there are the CDD ones supplied by Rimmer. Also my mechanic changed the front wheel bearings. He did not report any issue about installation, and he did install already those CV shafts and hubs to 5 cars prior to mine, all 5 customers still happy.
Aside from any safety issue (my primary reason), i have to say this like driving another car. I don't know how bad my shafts and hubs were, but now everything is so smooth with no lag and no vibration. What a difference !
cheers,
Laurent
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Pete,
Great to see you driving her around! Finally! I do understand you have not reached full confidence level. I'm there myself still nervous about any noise i hear, looking at engine temp and oil pressure... I guess this will go away with more trouble free miles
I see you don't have the cupboard piece in front of the radiator, i have been told this is key to the cooling system as a way to push more air through the radiator.
Cheers,
Laurent
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I think I have a cheaper version of it... i will go for 30% discount....
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Hi,
It is hard to answer you because you raise multiple questions that need further investigation.
On oil, the first number is cold grade, second is hot. So 20/50 it will be thicker when hot but thinner at cold start, also check the forum for ZDDP so you use the right oil for those old engines. I personally would not run with SAE30 but oil discussion is a rabbit hole...
Regarding the rest of your issues, you need to go through them in a logical sequence. Check ignition/distribution, spark plugs (replace them for a test, once wet some do not recover) fueling and carb balance, leaks at manifold in and out. That may fix your wet plug, and the vibration. If you still have white smoke, you need further investigation starting with the obvious (head torque setting, oil plug check....) and hoping for the best...
I'm sure you will get more support from the ones who know (and i'm not one of them....) if you raise more precise questions,
cheers,
Laurent
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Good to read that your mojo is better today. I'm sure that your motivation will spike as soon as she is running. I get the frustration of fixing what should have been fixed being there too but to a lesser extend.
What a great job you do and your documentation is gold to me as i'm new to the car and a lot less skilled,
Many thanks Pete,
Laurent
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Hi all,
i'm building a stock of spares that will be useful one day, either during this summer trip or just later for preventive maintenance. So i have a refurbished starter, an AC fuel pump, a belt, .... I still have the old fashioned dynamo on the car and would like to find a good quality spare one. I'm aware of the dynamo's limitations but 22 amp should be enough as i will use the car during the day for 99% of the time and i have led lights coming from Classic Cars Led following the forum's advice.
Where can I find a plug and play solution (new or refurbished), and avoid new cheapo's that seem to keep failing? I see dynamo's on offer at Rimmer, Revington and few other places. Any obvious choice?
thanks!
Laurent
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Great job Pete, impressive attention to details as always!
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Hi James, you are right and checked again and i think I found the Titanic in there.... there is indeed quite a lot of grunge.
Now i don't have a spare joint, I will go to my mechanic tomorrow to see if he has one and get it cleaned.
Laurent
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Thanks Stuart,
Will do,
I refilled a couple of times, so 50% of that fuel must still be quite old.
i'm running the repro mechanical pump (no lever, no brand on it) that came with the car and have an original AC as a spare.
Laurent
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Impressive work as always Pete, new plug, filter fixed, head fixed, finger crossed all will be well !
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Tyre recommendations
in General TR Technical
Posted
Comment on mileage is very true, when i got my 4IRS, tyres were 12 years old but looked new. I replaced them anyway and run Michelin XAS 165/80 that i find very good, handling and stability to 80mph (i did not go faster). Laurent