Lo100469
-
Content Count
76 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Lo100469
-
-
Quick update:
I measured float height to get to 25mm (from main jet deck to fuel level) cold (priming the fuel pump manually). I had to add 1mm to the front carb that was leaking, this is close to 12mm at the tip. Don’t try to ply the float lever without removing it, you will damage the valve (ask me how i know).
After a drive yesterday the front carb is still dripping after i shut down the engine. So i measured the fuel level just after switching off the engine and the fuel level is too high when hot, like 22mm to fuel level, 25 mm is standard, some go to 27mm (remove the main jet and measure from the deck down to fuel level).
Next steps:
- i did read that the DCOE front cover (towards the engine between the barrels) of the Weber should be vented. There is a hole in the middle of it in most spare ones, mine does not have one, vapor could build up there and leak after switch off. I will replace the covers and gaskets with ones with holes.
- i will add another 2mm to float height to lower the fuel level at around 25mm
- also installation of a heat shield below the carbs and an inline fuel filter to lower the fuel pressure a bit (even if I’m on the AC mechanical fuel pump that should not be pushing too much pressure). I will have to remove the carbs which is taking time but does not seem overly complicated.
Cheers
Laurent
-
thanks Tom,
i will aim for something like 27mm and report back the necessary plastic float height.
kind regards,
Laurent
-
Hi Peter,
Thanks, very interesting reading, i can see the 8.5mm for a brass floater. This is the number i wanted to check for the plastic one, i could find 14mm in some places.
If you lower that number, you make the fuel level higher by the same amount. When you say a TR engine requires the float set lower you mean the fuel level?
kind regards,
Laurent
-
Good morning,
i own a TR4 A that came with Webers. I had the engine and the carbs rebuilt and everything runs as it should except 2 small issues.
1 - idle goes up to 1500rpm from time to time (suspect some fuel find its way at idle)
2 - after the last run (i have maybe 250 miles post rebuilt - weather was quite hot Saturday like 26 degrees) i did hear the infamous pcchht of fuel hitting a hot object after shutting down the engine, and did see that the front carbs was leaking at the inlet manifold for a minute or 2, no big leak just a drop every 5 seconds.
I suspect fuel height is too high in the carbs, i did read that a new fuel valve settles and that you have to readjust float height after a few hours of running.
Now does everyone have a starting point a fuel height and float height on those DCOE 40? I do have the plastic ones and did read 14mm. Also the normal fuel height is 25mm but some recommend 29mm (from the top of the main jet base to the fuel). Also i guess fuel height matters and float adjustment is just a way to get to the right number?
Thanks for your support
Kind regards,
Laurent
-
On 3/18/2024 at 7:45 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:
I bought one off a seller on ebay, happy to say it is still going after 5000 miles or so. Speedograph Richfield have made their own which is a square boxy thing, have a look on their website.
Ralph
i guess the one tat the bottom is coming from Speedograph, i bought it a while ago. I still have a spare original Smith one. I need to decide which one i sacrifice first.....
-
Hi Richard, this probably does not help a lot but maybe someone will jump in to give the right info. As you i struggle with angle drives, I’m on the 3rd one in 3000 miles. 2 failed and i suspect the third one is on its way out because the speed is too low by 20%. I do have a new one that looks like a square box, i will take a picture tomorrow. I do not recall where i bought it, but it was expensive and supposed to be The solution. the 3 I had failed were ordered by my mechanic, so i suspect they come from Moss or Rimmer.
cheers, Laurent
-
Hope you can remove it without removing the exhaust manifold, i could not and it was a lot more work than planned.
-
On 12/16/2023 at 1:48 PM, stuart said:
TBH the real killer will be the amount of postage on top
Stuart.
well not really, postage cost was 26 dollars....
-
I have them in my car as i'm not very good at double declutching
Rick was already selling some last year, the website is new. My mechanic told me that they seem very well built and they did fit perfectly. I had to do a full rebuild of engine and gearbox, some teeth went missing on 3rd gear and the overdrive was in a really bad shape. So far, 100 miles and every works well but i go easy as i have also new pistons, rings, sleeves, ....
all I can say is that Rick was helpful and friendly, shipping was spot on. those synchros are expensive but I hope the gearbox will now last for ever and beyond....
will report back if i have any issue
cheers,
Laurent
-
Nick, as Marco i don't believe fuel turns bad in weeks. I also have a couple of bikes with fuel of over a year and they start no problem. Keeping the fuel tank full is always a good idea to avoid condensation. I don't know this valve master products, what is it doing?
You could have a fuel delivery issue that fixes itself as the pump works and mixes the fuel, if you have a plastic fuel filter try to remove it or change it. have you tested the fuel pump?
all the best,
Laurent
-
and the engine bay is messy. Don't know what that rivetted plate does on brake and clutch master cylinders....
-
Michel,
I have a refurbished old style starter you can have if you want. My mechanic was not sure there was no short in it so I had a high torque mounted but it is supposed to be like new.... at least bendix, shaft, bushing are all new
Laurent
-
To feed Keith's point, when my starter failed we had to remove the exhaust to take it out. this was a big job. That is the primary reason why i fitted a high torque starter that is a lot shorter and can be removed easily.
-
Good to read you Pete, i'm sure Katie will appreciate the upgrade!
-
well if the starter is lose it can move and touch only from time to time. Did you try again after tightening it?
-
If it is not square the internal part can touch the fly wheel no?
-
i never had any vapor lock on mine even during the heat wave last year, but i lost the starter that may have been cooked by the exhaust. I do have a tubular exhaust and Webers.
i decided against those wraps for the reasons mentioned above, in particular the risk of fire. I did go for ceramic coating but the car is being finished so i cannot tell you if that is efficient against heat issues under the bonnet,
Laurent
-
Hi Michel,
Newbie advice here, by accident i'm also in Belgium, same car same colour
I did listen to the recording a few times, sounds very much like a scrapping sound not internal to the engine but what do i know? We can rule out water pump, alternator, timing chain and tensioner from what you have done. The fan for the heater is easy enough to eliminate if you make sure it is not running. So you are left with the clutch housing?
Maybe a stupid idea but could the starter not disengage enough and touch the fly wheel? you said the sound was more on the inlet/exhaust side and it is on the side down under.
Regards,
Laurent
-
Mick,
Is the 4A chassis not similar for both live axle and IRS models? I always thought they took an 4A IRS chassis and fitted the live axle only for the US market. My only comment is to say that this chassis remains weaker than the original 4. Why would a 4A chassis rust less or flex less on a live axle car?
You are of course right about rear hubs issues for IRS cars, that is a real concern and i had to change mine to the upgrade ones, that was not cheap.
Cheers,
Laurent
-
I feel bad to have an IRS now.... seriously the TR4 has a stronger chassis as it is a simpler ladder design. I did not find one and went for an IRS. Also some fit a suspension conversion at the back of the IRS that if not done right can crack the frame. i think everyone agrees that the TR4IRS with a different back end that is more prone to rust and cracks and requires more attention. The US requested a live axle on the later chassis so you do not retain the strength of the former TR4 chassis, it is a bit the worse of both worlds.
Laurent
-
Hi guys,
I have Weber’s on mine and they run fine at low speed, but they are 40 not 45. Are 45 not better suited for a race car (larger pistons and high rpm)? Also i don’t like that there no air filter on the carbs, who would run a car without those?
cheers,
Laurent
-
i can confirm what Roy and Tim said. My mechanic has very good reputation and only does vintage British cars. The only work he will not do himself is tuning my Weber DCOE. They came with the car so i will keep them and go through the pain of getting them right alongside an engine rebuild. There is only one guy in Belgium who does the tuning properly, that means he needs to know what cam/pistons you use, then he will refurb the carbs completely, optimise the inlet manifold, put the engine on an Dyno and tune it there and he will only use a 123 ignition with BT. There is no shortcut on those carbs i'm afraid and the challenge is to find the right guy to do the job....
-
I take the point that coating the manifold may increase the heat at the first box that is just after, my plan was to coat the exhaust beyond the first box, place a heat shield above that box and place heat insulation inside the car under the carpet. I know that wrapping the wife would be easier but she disagrees... I need to fix it for her because with the heat wave this year it was no fun having the seat at 40deg +...
-
I have been there too Michael..... My starter was toasted this summer in heat wave. My wife had to push the car a few times, every time she gave me that look.... she still comes with me but complains about the heat from the exhaust under her seat. I see no-one speaking about ceramic coating, this is on my list for the winter to reduce heat soak, i have no experience with it but will give it a try and report back. Wrapping works well and i would do that on a race car but i'm concerned about how it ages if you get it wet, and humidity will be trapped inside.
Laurent
Wind deflectors
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I installed one of those, i know it does not look stock but long distance is way more confortable without the wind blast from the back. They mount on the seat belts bolts and go off in 2 secs.