FatJon
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Posts posted by FatJon
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1 hour ago, harrytr5 said:
Received my Past Parts rebuilt master cylinder today and soon fitted. Bled the brakes (first bleed) and solid pedal. Start the engine and exactly the same result, pedal can be pushed nearly to the floor so I can only deduce the servo does not hold the pressure. Before I take it off and send to Past Parts to test what else can it be. I am on silicon
brake fluid but have not had this before I fitted the Volvo servo so it can only point to that surely!
Regards Harry
Harry,
the servo has no part in the hydraulic pressure of the brake system. If you take it apart you will see nothing but a solid metal rod (ok, maybe a ball and cup joint) between the brake pedal and the master cylinder piston. There is nothing to go wrong in there other than a diaphragm failure which would leave you with working but unassisted brakes. By its nature a servo is fail safe. The fact that the pedal is hard until the engine creates vacuum tells you the servo is fine as that is exactly what should happen. The pedal should be very hard and sink a little under very light pressure as the engine starts. Look at flexible hoses next. The fluid leaving the MC is going somewhere and if it’s not a puddle under the car then something is “giving” under the considerable extra pressure.
There are several possibilities, a soft hose or weak drum or air spring first to mind now the MC is out of the equation.
Tomorrow I will measure my pedal height with engine off and under very hard pressure with engine running so you have some comparison data. That should at least show up any major differences in the way we installed it if they exist.
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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Print your own here
Cheers, that’s handy.
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Been there. 14.5mm on outer diameter=10 crank degrees. I used a tailors tape measure to measure and mark 0-40 degrees BTDC with dots of tipex.
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Maybe just the photo but that crank looks absolutely bone dry, even in the oil hole I see what looks like dry rust. The big end journal does not look too good either.
The liner and piston are scrap.
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Optima Red Top or similar quality battery like a bosch or yuasa and an EBay £20 Chinese battery trickle/conditioner. I have this combo on old my old cars and some have lasted nearly a decade. If they get parked up for more than 2 weeks they go on the trickler. Being left flat is the kiss of death for a lead acid battery. Avoid that and they can go for many years.
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2 minutes ago, JohnTB said:
Thanks Folks, The Cam is definitely NOT a reprofiled Cam ! So FatJon, all advance finished by 2,800 revs (graph goes flat)
Yes, as a good starting point. A rolling road session will get it tuned to perfection but I I think 31 degrees all in at 2800 then flat would be within a couple of degrees of perfection.
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1 hour ago, Swscar said:
With all due respect , I know about the spin on conversion, my question was not is it worth doing, but how much more, or less, desirable is a completely untouched car, excepting normal servicing and relevant replacement of worn out components with equivalent new ones.
My question is will a perfectly working car in first class condition, but as it came from the factory, more desirable than one, in the same condition but with lots of mods.
SWSWith equal respect, It depends on who you’re selling it to. I don't want a concours car with brake pad knock back, questionable crank thrust bearing arrangement, 1970 brakes, Licas mechanical injection and points based ignition, so I spent a vast amount of money on not having those and other assorted “original features”. Others will insist on all of the above being left alone and pay more to not have them changed. There is no simple answer.
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2 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:
My sentiments entirely !!
Me too. Just bought a PH2 and new EN40 followers for my new engine. I would not fit a reprofiled in a TR6 engine. Apart from cam longevity questions there are potential problems with pushrod length and rocker working angles. If you have yet to buy it think twice. In fact if you have bought it still think twice!
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14 hours ago, FatJon said:
I would be starting with around standard timing, maybe an extra couple of degrees around idle. It’s not a radical cam.
And to answer the second part which I missed, all in by 2800RPM which is a bit earlier than usual but as as overlap increases the cylinder filling at lower revs gets less effective so bringing in the advance quicker helps combustion when effective compression ratio is lower.
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If you are losing compression it’s going one of three ways.
1 past the rings (also makes smoke)
2 past the valves.
3 head gasket
3 seems to be discounted as there are no signs of hg failure.
2 seems unlikely and easily tested on the bench. For all the valves to fail to seat would be a big coincidence on a newly rebuilt head from a reputable supplier. For it to also smoke in scenario 2 the valve guides would need to be worn out so that would be two unconnected major fails on the head. Not impossible but unlikely.
That leaves 1. Is there any possibility of an error in piston ring type or incorrect assembly of oil control rings?
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The question is who are you asking for. If you are planning to sell it to a concours fan or show it that class you will want it original, others will want small improvements. If you are the former leave it alone. I’m very much in favour of the improvements within reason. I bonnet bulge is right out but improving the startup oiling, LED bulbs and a bigger alternator make perfect sense to me.
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The advantages of the vertical filter are that it stays full when the engine is stopped and makes much less mess when being changed.
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2 hours ago, JohnTB said:
Any suggestions as to optimum timing to use with this cam. What should be the slope ? Settings at say 1600 and 2500 revs and where should advance stop ?
It's in a CP TR6
I would be starting with around standard timing, maybe an extra couple of degrees around idle. It’s not a radical cam.
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I used used same method. Mine’s horizontal and no problem with any significant oil blowing out. The hose does run upwards towards the tank which probably helps.
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1 hour ago, harrytr5 said:
Thanks for the replies much appreciated.
One Servo reconditioner suggested as I have four pot callipers the master cylinder is not man enough to work properly and that is your problem. They also said my servo is working properly. Confused or what? Now that could be the case or not. It is going to be something simple but what!.
I can not remember where I bought the master cylinder from and I do have an original to send off for past parts to rebuild to discount that.As Stuart pointed out but I don't think it is a TRW one but it could be.
I can not see the wood for the trees which is ironic being a carpenter all my life.
Is there a specialist in braking out there who could test my car and say for definite it is this or that.Stuart is a tad too far from me but you never know!
I have only had this problem on my own TR5 which is strange!
Regards Harry
Harry, I can only add that I too have AP 4 pot calipers on the front but no problems. My rears are new but standard cylinders and all my hoses are modern braided ones. The master cylinder is standard TR6 but I don't know what manufacturer or vintage it is. My best tip would be that if a caliper or slave cylinder is leaking you will see fluid, if the master cylinder is leaking the fluid goes around the seals and back to the reservoir so you see no leak. If it's neither of those possibilities it's air or a swelling hose.
My order of work would be a close examination of all the calipers and slaves for signs of dampness, then replace master cylinder and a damn good bleed with a power bleeder. I did have quite a job getting all the air out. It would stop bubbling and all appear OK then when I went around again I found more air. I went around the car several times before things firmed up fully and I was happy with the pedal feel. Next step for me would be to look at changing flexible hoses. I'm not sure there is any brake expertise or technical equipment that will diagnose it in any more definitive way. It's a hydraulic circuit and if you go at it logically it will eventually give up its secret.
I did have a problem on my MG Maetsro Turbo when I did a conversion to rear disks in which the master cylinder was not of sufficient capacity for disks all round and I ended up with a too long brake pedal travel but it still remained good and solid at the end of it's travel with no further sinking (I changed it for a bigger one regardless).
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21 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:
So any thoughts on my problem guys. As I have altered the servo as you have done I own it good or bad. I do not want to order another pattern part to only have the same problem. I guess since yours work, mine must just be faulty. Do they come from China???
I want to persevere with this as the braking is fabulous and do not want to go back to standard
Regards Harry
I doubt it’s the servo. Nothing really can go wrong in a servo other than it failing to provide assistance. It’s a direct mechanical connection from pedal to master cylinder passing through a diaphragm for assistance. If you can push the pedal to the floor the master cylinder piston is moving with it.
Remember that the servo approximately multiples the force you apply by a factor of 3 so it will quickly expose any other weaknesses.
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Got a spare crank but hate to think what it would cost to get it to spain. It’s a short back version.
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3 minutes ago, Dan Middleton said:
So, having bought my first ever "project" - a 1974 CR, I have had a tremendously enjoyable 8 months or so taking a tired rolling restoration car to the point where I have now got an MOT and 1700 miles under my belt.
It has been a huge learning curve and I have benefitted enormously from the help and advice of many people that I have met through membership of the TR Register, as well as the few events that I have been able to attend and the frequent visits to the forum.
As the first winter approaches, I have a few jobs planned, but I'm wondering if there is a point at which tweaking and tinkering becomes counter-productive. There are loads of mods and upgrades I could look at, but if I wouldn't contemplate fiddling with my normal daily drive.
Interested to see what others think?
Other than the actual body of the car, which is already stunning, nothing is sacred with me. It’s an old design and a bit of modernisation transforms it. To others it would be a capital crime to use non original pedal rubbers. It’s a matter of personal preference, do what makes you happy.
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I might consider it from a trade supplier with an excellent reputation but not a chance on a private “caveat emptor” sale.
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3 hours ago, stuart said:
TBH you would probably be better off talking to Darryl at Racetorations rather than Rimmers
https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/roller-rocker-set-tr5-6/
Stuart.
I did, he’s 4 minutes away from me! He couldn’t get any, wouldn’t take a back order because he can’t get any reliable delivery date. I tend to buy most if my “special” parts from Darryl. Of course it could well be that Rimmers don’t deliver but the new engine is a long term project over winter so the rockers are not too urgent.
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I tried a few places with no luck. With gbp-dollar rate as it is importing one set at US retail price is rather expensive.
In the end I ordered a set through Rimmers but looking at December delivery.
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I'm 6"1 and I changed from my 1970 TR6 seats to MX5 and did not notice any significant change in leg room either way. The main benefit was being rid of the old seats which ended at my lower shoulder blades and were not very supportive or comfortable for someone of my height and size, my nmae is a clue that I'm in no danger of blowing away in a strong breeze.
I used stainless brackets from TR Trader (Carl Fitchett) which he makes specifically for fitting MX5 seats in a TR6. He also supplied the seats, fully reconditioned with new Italian leather.
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44 minutes ago, TonyC said:
Hi all,
Now facing an engine strip and rebuild following failure of cam followers and probably camshaft too. Anyway on removing head I notice that pistons are marked with ‘.060’ - suggesting 60 thou oversize pistons, but I notice too that the bores appear to have had liners fitted. I’m puzzled! Brown Book says that max rebore oversize should only be +.020”, and although it does mention liners, they are supposedly to be used to bring bores back to standard size, and I’m struggling to understand how I may have liners which are then bored .060” oversize which I would have thought would have left the liner walls very thin.
The following pic refers. Can anyone shed any light on whether or not these are liners or maybe just recessed bores??, and and comments on the .060 piston marking appreciated.
Thanks,
TonyC
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They are not liners, it’s recessed block and the grooves take the fire rings on the later head gaskets.
You can get away with more than 60 though, though the pistons get a bit harder to find.
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The saloon car engine mounts are connected to the engine front plate but the tr6 mounts to the block so you would need some TR mounts. I suspect the crank pulley assembly may also different. Other than that I don’t think you will have too many problems. Others will know more, I’m new to the tr scene but currently rebuilding a saloon engine to go into my 6 and the above were the first things I noticed.
Trunnion torque
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I would add a washer, maybe one at each end. I would not be happy with either the wrong torque or the split pin being ineffective.