FatJon
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Posts posted by FatJon
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The advisory is for brake performance not a leak. A leak of brake hydraulic fluid is either a major or dangerous item as defined under the post 2018 definitions, depending on whether it does or does not affect brake performance in the opinion of the tester. It would be an immediate fail in either case as the tester has no scope to issue an advisory for this.
The oil advisory (8.4.1) will be engine, gearbox or differential with a minor leak which does not meet the criteria for a fail on environmental grounds unless it's bad enough to leave a pool of 75mm diameter within 5 minutes. A brake fluid leak is not covered under 8.4.1 as it's a 100% automatic fail anyway.
It will be a case of cleaning and adjusting the brakes or a seized brake cylinder to replace.
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I bought 3 (one for the boot of each car) all from a well known high street car spares and pushbike vendor. They span 6PSI on the same tyre so I can't tell you which are good ones but I can tell you which to avoid. I'm with RobH, spend an extra tenner on separate gauge.
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If it's of interest, here's my ignition table which runs very nicely. It ends at 4800RPM as there are no changes beyond that point so better to have good resolution further down.
The engine is a standard 1970 PI 150BHP but with a nicer exhaust manifold and system plus throttle bodies and electronic injection/ignition. It's still a work in progress on fuelling strategies but runs lovely and feels very smooth and well mannered. It pulls in plenty of advance at high vacuum so I can go quite lean on the over run and moderately lean on cruise. No pinking on standard UK unleaded and 25MPG average unless I get heavy footed then the low teens are easy. There are some areas outside the normal running zone that are untuned best guesses, eg full throttle at 600RPM, let's face it, who goes there?
Because it uses wasted spark with each plug firing twice per revolution it has some weird behaviour with modern dial back timing lights that one needs to be aware of when adjusting the timing. There are a few areas that might benefit from tweaking but as Peter said, a degree or 4 makes little difference in normal running off idle. Getting the fuel right is much more important.
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On 5/17/2021 at 11:53 AM, FatJon said:
There won't be any updates for a while. I just drove it first time out to Darryl at Racetorations this morning. It was surprisingly civilised for a best guess fuelling map and has definitely picked up some horses since it arrived in my shed 6 weeks ago, even without any tuning or optimisation. Those intakes and exhausts sound lovely, just enough, not too much.
I'm told it will be end of June before the brake/suspension work is finished, he has a very full workshop. Nice chap BTW, he has been very helpful with tech advice and keeps a hell of a lot of stuff on the shelves which is very convenient as he's less than 2 miles from me. Would have taken me weeks longer if I'd not been able to just call him and get a pick up a pile of stuff in a box an hour later.
Picked it up from Racetorations this morning. She's now sporting pretty much all new suspension and steering. lowered, competition shocks, AP Brakes, Cosworth hubs, quick rack, bigger brakes and front/rear ARBs, strengthened chassis mounts etc etc..
Now for some tuning while the sun's shining, I know, better be quick.
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11 hours ago, Peter Cobbold said:
throttle position is directly related to butterfly angle, and hence to manifold pressure, so it can do the same job of advancing the spark at cruise.
There is no direct correlation between throttle angle and vacuum. There are 3 parts to the equation and you are missing the third. Without RPM you have no idea what the vacuum will be. 20% throttle at 3500 RPM cruise might be 45KPA but 20% at 1500 RPM is near atmospheric. For good clean running the manifold pressure is an essential part of the timing calculation. This is one drawback of Alpha-N using throttle position and engine speed only to calculate fuel load and ignition. I use a blended method where I use vacuum, and RPM until the vacuum nears atmospheric (circa 80KPA) and then blend over to Alpha-N when the vacuum signature becomes unreliable which is often the case with throttle bodies. The Triumph (Lucas) engineers went with what is effectively an early form of Alpha-N using only throttle angle and vacuum for fuelling but I think that was the limit of the technology then, so it was not by choice. Swapping from one calculation method to the other was an impossible dream in the mid 20th century.
Dobbing in more advance on cruise vacuum and over run makes a big difference to the manners of the engine, efficiency and emissions. You can also pull out fuelling on the over run with more modern systems but the old Lucas PI system has little understanding of adapting mixture by engine load although it was pretty impressive for the 60's.
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Take a look at at BL A Series engine cylinder head bypass pipes. They may do the job but I don't have any to hand to check the ID.
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I have at least 5 and they are much of a muchness. I just use the nearest one. For deep dark electronics some are better than others but for wiring faults on a TR6 they are all the same.
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Trying to track down the previous history of my current TR6 YHT 12J. It's an original UK car 1970 model in black (at least it's black now).
Any info welcome
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I was tempted to remove the dowels, tap the holes and fit studs so I could actually get a real positive clamping force on the bottom of the inlets rather than relying on the big washers to clamp inlet and exhaust flange at the same time. The dowels didn't even fit through the holes on my aftermarket DCOE manifold. I didn't do it in the end as I figured there must be some reason why Triumph did it this way even though it's really not obvious what it may be. I don't hold with the "aligning the manifold and ports" argument. They would be just as well aligned within fractions of a MM with 2 studs as with a stud and a dowel.
I have a slight tick on the my exhaust ports so I think when I take the manifolds off to change the gasket the tap wrench will be coming out to play.
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Lovely neat job. Only driven mine 2 miles since the new EFI went in but I know what you mean about the sound.
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3 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said:
That efi install looks very neat, what did you do with the Metering Unit from the old PI system?
steve
It's still on the car with all the pipes disconnected and a plug/O Ring in the top where the dizzy was. I asked racetorations to remove it as they have a new way of plugging the hole which handles retaining the oil pump drive without leaving the metering unit in place.
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36 minutes ago, Hamish said:
ain't technology amazing- as are those that understand it !!!!!
welcome Jon - we expect more updates from you
There won't be any updates for a while. I just drove it first time out to Darryl at Racetorations this morning. It was surprisingly civilised for a best guess fuelling map and has definitely picked up some horses since it arrived in my shed 6 weeks ago, even without any tuning or optimisation. Those intakes and exhausts sound lovely, just enough, not too much.
I'm told it will be end of June before the brake/suspension work is finished, he has a very full workshop. Nice chap BTW, he has been very helpful with tech advice and keeps a hell of a lot of stuff on the shelves which is very convenient as he's less than 2 miles from me. Would have taken me weeks longer if I'd not been able to just call him and get a pick up a pile of stuff in a box an hour later.
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4 minutes ago, Tim D. said:
are those custom kidney pads?
Tim
You mean the panels either side of the radio with the speakers in? If so I don't know, they came with the car, they are thin plywood covered in some kind of padding and leatherette. I'm guessing they are not original as they were a bit of a fiddle to refit and had to be pulled in quite hard to the dash support to make them fit well.
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I got sick of all the spannering with the Lucas injection and a dizzy so I went a bit radical. Now it's all a sat on my backside job with a laptop and a cup of tea.
Megasquirt, Zeitronix EGO and Jenvey 40mm throttle bodies, electric fan and oil cooler, Rimmer SS exhaust and manifold with wheelbarrow tailpipes. It uses a proper fuel recirculation system with a tank return so no more hot fuel problems (I hope). Still needs some on the road tuning as I only finished it this weekend but it runs nicely. It's put up a fight as it's my first TR6 and every little quirk has caught me out. Now it's off to Racetorations for suspension and brake upgrades, I'm OK with the engine stuff but too old and knackered to wrestle the heavy bits around with the car on a jack.
Got to love triumphs, 6 weeks work, finally finished it and backed it out of the garage. 3 feet over the threshold the heater valve gave up and dumped all the coolant. Luckily I had the nice American one on the shelf which is a lot smoother than the original. Last week it was the bottom radiator hose that let me down, and I still have to replace the aftermarket coolant gauge which reckons 80c is 120c and caused me some hours of grief trying to figure out why the ECU, my turkey thermometer and my IR thermometer said there was no problem but the gauge reckoned I was entering meltdown territory. The week before it was a cheapo EBay alloy TR6 radiator that leaned back at such an angle I couldn't fit the fan without it fouling the chassis member. And don't get me started on fitting a fan belt. That's a task that has never taken 3 hours before.
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A thanks to Carl at TRTrader for my seats and brackets. Very easy to fit and look the dogs bits. I have no affiliation, just think it's important to recognise UK suppliers making quality products!
TR6 MOT Advisories-Brakes
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Also check for a wear ridge on the backplate preventing any moving parts from sliding freely. It can usually be deal with quite easily with a bit of emery or a light dressing with a hammer. The pic is not a TR but it's a good example of what to look for. To be quite honest I would not go to the trouble of taking the brakes apart without replacing the cylinders if they are of significant age. They're cheap and it's a pain to have to do it again later and inevitably you will have to do it later as they have a hard life. A smear of brake grease never goes amiss either. These moving parts run in a hot and dusty environment and need all the help they can get to stay efficient and reliable.