[Securon Front Seat Belt Kit]

On 2/20/2014 at 10:12 AM, tr6wilts said:

Hi

 

Next job on my long list is replacing the standard non inertia reel belts with a Securon Front Seat Belt Kit, so before I start drilling holes in the inner wheel arch, an hints or tips would be appreciated, Pics of other installs would be fantastic, my focus being on the installation and location of the inertia reel mechanism.

 

Thanks

 

 

Rich

This original post was a while ago, but I wondered how you got on. I'm at the start of this and from what ive read I expected anchor points to attached the belt to. However there isnt an anchor point at the bottom of the wheel arch for the retractor to attach to. Not keen on drilling holes in the arch but I guess this is what I have to do?

Thanks, Garry

[Spitfire fuel catalyst]

1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello 

          It has been around for years and is rubbish unless you keep the revs down then there is less problem anyway

If you drive slow I think it will take ages to cause damage but if you drive it like you stole it not long (The choice is yours!)

Roger

Cheers, its clear, avoid!

[Spitfire fuel catalyst]

1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Rog,

he is at all the shows trying his luck.

It is true that the RAF did try to experiment with such a device but it never took off (pun  )

I can sell you the same stuff at 1/2 price.

 

Snake oil

 

oger

Thanks, glad I checked,did seem to good to be true

[Spitfire fuel catalyst]

Saw this at the NEC Classic Car Show at the weekend (www.spitfirefuelcatalyst.co.uk). Does anyone have experience? Supposed to protect valves, boost octane and provide some provide some protection against ethanol.

[Rear suspension coil springs]

Thanks everyone, I'll do it as per manual then.

[Rear suspension coil springs]

I want to replace these and am wondering whether to use spring compressors rather than disconnect drive shaft/damper per manual instructions. I cant see why compressors wouldnt work and it seems a lot easier. Am I missing something?

[Swollen exhaust down pipe nuts]

7 minutes ago, Waldi said:

My cast manifold was drilled, so std bolts and nuts replace the stud ends. I used brass (longer) nuts.

I assume you have applied penetrating oil several times, also on the studs?

Yes I've put plenty of pentrating oil on but its of no use to me yet as I cant get on the nuts to try and release them.

[Swollen exhaust down pipe nuts]

I attempted to remove the exhaust from my TR6 today and all went well until I tried to release the down pipe from the manifold.  I can get a 5/8 socket on the nuts part way only and I believe the nut has swollen. I have tried a metric 16mm and well used 5/8 sockets to try an get fully on the nut without success. I dont want to put full force on the socket with it only partly on becasue we all know what will happen if I try that! I know you can get universal sockets (but are they any good?) or I could try and get a 16.5mm socket but does anyone have any suggestions? Cant believe I'm the first person to experience this!

[Bleeding the Brakes]

On 8/25/2021 at 4:11 PM, John L said:

Can you tell us,  is left or right hand drive, is this a US spec car with the PDWA valve fitted underneath the master cylinder with an electric switch attached to it, item 78 here,https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-tr5-6-1967-76.html

Have you tried to get fluid from the nearside rear cylinder?

John

Thanks John, its UK RHD. I ended up replacing all the brake hoses in teh end, and hey presto, everything works!

[Sealey Car lift]

Does anyone have experience using the Sealey PPL01 Portable Pivot Car Lift? At 1500Kg limit it more than covers the weight of my TR6. Dont want to spend a fortune but neither do I want to compromise safety or effectiveness.

[Bleeding the Brakes]

On 8/23/2021 at 4:37 AM, JochemsTR said:

If you are able to achieve 14.5 PSI......

Most garages (so do I) use a "push" maschine so new fluid is fed simultaneously.....

Getting rather frustrating, vaccum pump didnt work, thanks for suggestion though.

[Bleeding the Brakes]

On 8/23/2021 at 9:04 AM, John Morrison said:

A FOC enhancement of the traditional bleeding system, is to have  someone push hard on the pedal, before opening the bleed nipple, that should give you the very best chance of getting fluid expelled.

Worth a try?

John.

Thanks John, no, that didnt work, aargh

[Bleeding the Brakes]

5 hours ago, John L said:

I have had the same, didn't think there was much pressure to the rear cylinders, traced it to the nylon outer of the seal that stops fluid returning to the reservoir, the nylon part had shrunk and was not allowing the rubber seal to seal at the end of the cylinder.  You could check looking in the reservoir and pumping the pedal you shouldn't see turbulence in the reservoir, if you do this seal is not doing its job, I managed to salvage the white nylon parts from an older master cylinder.

Check if if you have an isolator valve if its dual system, which blanks off the diagonal rear hoses, hopes that what I mean.

John

No turbulence so I guess its OK. Do you know how to resolve the isolator valve issue?  Garry

[Bleeding the Brakes]

6 hours ago, astontr6 said:

The rear brakes can be a ba......! to do? I now use a vacuum pump which does not have any trouble pulling the fluid through. In hind sight I think that the condition of the seals in the M/S play a key part in this. But others will be along to correct me if I am wrong? Make sure bleed nipples are clear of harden dirt? Use a drill bit if required.

Bruce.

Vacuum pump ordered, thanks, hope it will do the job.

[Bleeding the Brakes]

2 hours ago, jimcwestie said:

I found that the new master cylinder was blocked where it feeds the rear cylinder and as a result no brake fluid was coming through when I was bleeding the brakes.

Jim

Thanks Jim, will check, Garry

[Bleeding the Brakes]

Thinking I'm being daft here somehow but I want to bleed the brakes on my TR6. I started at the rear offside ie farthest from master, pumped the brake pedal to release vaccuum as per manual, removed the lid of the cylinder, loosened the bleed nipple (with non return tube on) and had my good lady gently pump the pedal. No fluid is coming through....Am I making a rookie mistake?!

[TR6 PI ignition timing]

Thanks everyone, very helpful. Strobe has arrived so I will experiment.

[TR6 PI ignition timing]

I need to adjust the timing on my TR6 PI and have read so much about settings I have confused myself totally.  I have ordered a strobe and will be using this, it seems the setting for this should be 4 ATDC (vs 11 BTDC static). Have I got this correct? Also, I have heard that it can be useful to adjust timing slightly to cater for modern unleaded fuel but not sure if this is correct or if so what adjustment should be made. Thanks.

[Redex petrol system cleaner]

Thanks folks, very helpful. Will track downsome better fuel stations and try the redex.

[Redex petrol system cleaner]

Can anyone give a view on using the redex cleaner for a 2.5 pi tr6. Just bought the car and getting used to it and its quite rough on tickover. I've had a local triumph expert reset the timing, replaced an injector and plugs. I'm thinking of treating it to the redex sytem cleaner but want to be sure its not going to do more harm than good. Thanks.

[Moss vs rimmer bros]

Thanks everyone, I think ill go for refurbishing mine in the first instance, and it seems like many of you aren’t impressed with Rimmers. 

[Moss vs rimmer bros]

Any view on the difference between these 2 suppliers? Just got a TR6 and looking to buy a new starter motor, moss much cheaper but does Rimmer bros have a reputation for higher quality? Seems to be a common that Rimmer is more expensive on the items I have looked at. 

[Help assessing car before purchase]

Thanks, I joined last week so will pick up your suggestion.

[Help assessing car before purchase]

I want to buy a TR6 and have found what looks like a great car…but this is my first classic car all I know is what I can read on the forums which whilst very helpful is no substitute for someone who really knows how to check/assess a car.  So can anyone help/recommend someone or a company who can take a look at the car for me.  The car is in the Swindon area. Thanks..