[TVR 2500M (TR6) Engine Issues]

Bob / Waldi,

Thanks for the feedback.  Going back to check the timing again.  Will report back later. 

David

[TVR 2500M (TR6) Engine Issues]

Jerry, Waldi

Thanks for the quick replies.

I got excited for a while about the manifold idea but unfortunately, I think mine was on correctly.  I took it apart but pretty sure it was correct based on some on-line photos. Also tried the new fuel after flushing the system. The engine still doesn't even offer to start. 

Hopefully you can check my photo's re-timing. The 1 and 2 valves are rocking at TDC with rotor arm in position 1 so I'm pretty sure this means the cam-shaft is not 180 deg out. 

My thoughts from the start are that it is carb related and I actually don't think they ARE flowing.  They underwent a full refurb with new gaskets etc. However, I don't think the plugs are getting wet and no obvious smell of fuel (although I think my sense of smell is pretty much ruined after petrol fumes all day). I checked basic operation when I took them off the car today.  I figured they would be way out of setting because they were fully dismantled but I thought it would be possible to tune properly with engine running.  If only.  

With the carb manifold off, I checked the suction on the inlet ports.  There was plenty.  However, I expected to feel some suction on the carb inlet (air filter is disconnected) but couldn't really feel any.  Is this normal?  The carbs have a hose outlet which is connected to the rocker cover and the manifold has a hose connection to the servo (presumably creating a vacuum for the brake assist). The exhaust manifold is currently off.  I've seen some posts on issues with vacuum and tbh, I don't have a perfect seal as the gasket isn't yet fitted but I think there should be sufficient to get the car started. 

Any further ideas welcomed. 

BTW, a TVR was pretty much all I could afford back in 89. Cost me £4.5k from David Gerald in Worcester and was my daily driver for a few years before my kids arrived.  For a couple of £k more at the time, I could have had an E-type but couldn't afford the insurance. Funny old world right enough!  I think the TVR's are creeping up a bit in value now though, or so I keep telling my wife when another package arrives from Rimmer Brothers

[TVR 2500M (TR6) Engine Issues]

Team, 

This is my first posting although I've used the forum many times in the past for technical searches so appreciate all the information provided.  I'm based in Aberdeen and have a 1972 TVR 2500M (UDB 744K) which I've had since 1989.  As you will be aware, the car is based on a TR6.  It's a long story but based on work and family commitments, its been garaged for more than 20 years with a seized engine.  I've now retired and started a restoration.  I'm not a mechanic but have a electromechanical background so I'm OK at using the forums and TR manuals.

I've rebuilt the engine (number MM24HE), serviced the carbs (twin strombergs), starter motor, fuel pump, alternator etc. and replaced the battery, HT leads, coil, plugs and points.  I'm 99% sure everything is back together correctly and static timing is set. I've gone over this a couple of times and can see the rotor arm in the correct position at TDC. I've checked and rechecked the HT wiring order.  The LT wiring in the car is a mess as it looks like one of the previous owners has bodged with a lot of splices so I'm slowly fixing this.  A new loom wasn't really an option as the early TVR's were all a little different so I prefer to build this myself.  I've done enough gf the wiring to get the ignition working but  the issue I have is that I can't get the car started after the rebuild.  It was a good runner before it was garaged (although tricky to start after a few days idle) but it had a stuck piston after local garage left outside with the head off so needed rebuilt.  Rebuild went well, new piston rings installed, relapped valves and everything in spec. The car turns over well and getting decent spark at the plugs. It has a ballast resistor but getting about 10v at the coil when cranking.  Oil pressure seems reasonable after a few cranks (I circulated the oil with an air-drill and an attachment to the distributor) .  Fuel tank is currently disconnected but I have a small fuel reservoir attached and petrol is getting to the carbs.  Exhaust, manifold and air filter currently disconnected.  Compression seems OK (between 150 and 180 psi on each piston). I've even tried a squirt of easy start but doesn't even attempt to catch.  Cooling system is also a mess so not connected at present. Using unleaded petrol which I know will be an issue with current valves but my understanding is that it will be ok for a quick run until I get the tank back and put in some lead additive. 

My gut feeling is that it may be related to the carb overhaul although this went fairly well and I see no immediate issues with the rebuild.  But the spark is good so if it's not timing, I'm not really sure what to try next. I'm pretty sure having the air filter,  exhaust and cooling system disconnected is not the problem but hopefully one of you good people can advise me if I'm correct.  I realise this is a bit of an ask and probably need to just re-check all the obvious things mentioned in the forum but any tips would be greatly appreciated (especially regarding the carbs because all the settings will likely be off after the rebuild).  Nightmare scenario is that the engine hasn't been degreed properly but I'm 99% sure its good as I spent a long time checking and re-checking. Thanks in advance too anyone who can help.