barrytr4
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Posts posted by barrytr4
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Hi Mates --thanks for the replies so far, all depends on engine rev's even stationary , I didn't put the half-moon balancer piece on , couldn't find it , don't understand it either--I think I will get a friend to ride w/ me to get a second opinion , and see what they think--Barry
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Hi Chaps
thanks for the replies, fairly sure it's not touching at the cruciform but hard to see at the front, , I have the ex' pipe mounted firm to the b /house, is it a firm (solid?) mount to the gear/ box?,prob' same thing? The more I think about, it may be something is touching engine/ chassis as it doesn't rattle just comes in gradual , I'll let you know when I find out -----Barry
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Hi Chaps
still sorting out my TR4 , it has a resonance it's not too bad at low revs but when I get to 2500 revs it comes in , it gets worse around 3000 revs, it's not too loud but the frequency is hard on the ears , it doesn't seem to vibrate too much , I've checked the exhaust and body mounts they look OK, also I have the exhaust pipe fixed to the bellhousing ( or there abouts? ) could that be the problem? ---any ideas ?--Barry
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7 hours ago, barrytr4 said:
Hi Mates
I took the strips out, the middle one was distorted /twisted ( after hours of trying to fit it?) , the outer ones seem fine , I could feel them going into position, so I put hacksaw blades in the middle section, and it fitted a lot better than before any problems , I will update--Barry
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Hi Mates
I took the strips out, the middle one was distorted /twisted ( after hours of trying to fit it?) , the outer ones seem fine , I could feel them going into position, so I put hacksaw blades in the middle section, and it fitted a lot better than before any problems , I will update--Barry
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Hi Mates
Thanks for the tips , I have the the press studs on the side , looks like the strips are too thick and the edge is only only going half in , will have another go , I'm thinking maybe some lubrication? will let you know how I go--Barry
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Hi Mates
I been trying for hours the get the leading edge of the soft-top to go in the "lip" on top of the screen, it seems to go in alright, but, when I go around to do the other side in comes out again , what's the trick?--Barry
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47 minutes ago, barrytr4 said:
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On 1/17/2021 at 2:28 PM, barrytr4 said:
Hi Chums--
My Tr4 hadn't been on the road for 40 years, 30 years with me, I was a parts car for 2 TR4's that I finished and put on the road, I also now have another TR4 parts car, who know I might finish it as well ,, all the best Barry
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Hi Tim
Thanks for that, I have several vintages m/bikes, I have just put one on, it's not on view, but I can see it on my profile file , Is that right?--Barry
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Hi Mates
Thanks for the tips , I will consider them all, my brother years ago on his TR's used to use the old crook-lock, that hook around the steering wheel, ok for a bit of visual security, but not much good in reality--all the Best--Barry
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Hi John--Thanks for that, I have several vintage vehicles, do you know how I can post a list of them on my profile? thanks Barry
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Hi Mates
How do you "lock" your TR ? it's a simple ignition lock and what the point of locking the doors on a soft-top?, What I do is put a h/duty bicycle lock around the "H " frame support ( on the tr4) left there when not in use and around the steering wheel when locking the car , I leave the boot and doors unlocked w/ no valuables in car and tools under the boot floor , any better ideas? -Barry
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Hi Geko
Yes's, that done, when it was tested/ inspected by a private tester, I gave him all the details, he sent them off to somewhere and in about 2 hours they sent back OK for it to licensed , the other TR4 I have is a USA import, will have to find out about that one--all the best Barry
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Hi Chums--
My Tr4 hadn't been on the road for 40 years, 30 years with me, I was a parts car for 2 TR4's that I finished and put on the road, I also now have another TR4 parts car, who know I might finish it as well ,, all the best Barry
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Hi Mates
My TR4 has inertia Starter that has bent the armature , it was working fine then sort of siezed up , the engine was cold, the shaft had bent a few degrees, at the same time? when I stripped it I saw one of the brush leads had gone to earth and had burnt the wire out, is it worth trying to straighten it? while I'm here the engine seems hard to turn by hand when hot--not too bad when cold-----Barry
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Hi Chums
Thanks for the comments, I'm in Perth Western Australia , it a strange place regards to vehicle testing, they are done when they are new then not tested again ( ever) unless they are de-licenced or get a yellow sticker from the police if they think it's bit dodgy, years ago I took a motorbike in , it had a spot of oil on the drain plug and they said the sumps leaking , I said no it isn't I just changed the oil and wiped the spot off , on another time another bike the tester had a torch and was trying to find play in the gear-lever splines, I said is that all you can find and tightened it up, but in the country ( outback) a friend of mine went for a m/bike driving test at the local police station, the tester said how did you get here, he said on my bike, the officer said well you have passed then, still concerned about the TR4 wheel arch / tyre gap though ----Barry
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Hi Chums
Just seen in the Moss parts book that the early cars driver side had harder rear springs, I'll show that to the tester ,what about the 30mm front guard arch clearance?--Barry
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Hi Chums
Just jacked the back up and rechecked the front, this time wheel arches were 15mm diff' ( before30mm) also checked at the lower bump stops to ground , that was about 10 mm diff, also while I was there the wheel arches gap/ clearance was only about 30mm that doesn't seem a lot --Barry
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Hi Chums
the R/H drive TR4 is a bit high on the driver's side, and is due to be tested , measurement taken at w/ arches through the center of hubcaps ----Front /R.675mm,,,, Front /L 645--diff=30mm
rear/R 708mm,,,,rear /L 690 diff = 18 mm, what the opinions on that?,,, I would prefer to leave it as is , when I'm in the car would prob' be level or at least better, thanks for any tips, all the Best for the New Year Barry
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Hi Brian
Does the "J" type o/d actually fit in the chassis? I tried one in my Tr4 , the solinoid was fouling the chassis--Barry
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Hi mates
The stuff in the tank was like a hard mud/cement/ limestone material , I tested some small samples outside the tank, they were not effected by rust killer or aluminium cleaner (that I also tried) could be the remains of petrol addative or lead that was in the fuel, no rust though, I tried the loose nuts shaking the tank method, , but could only shake about 3 times , it was far too heavy, so I suspended the tank via a small sling on the two top bolt holes to a hook , took a rope via a snatch block ( small pulley ) to the bottom of the tank,, with this rope I could rotate the tank almost 3/4 of a turn quite fast for long periods and this did the trick, I'll wash it out today and refit--happy new year --Barry
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Hi Mates--just took the petrol, tank off, it's got a lot of mostly non magnetic slag/ dirt in there , but the bottom of tank looks a bit rough, what the best thing to do , I could just wash w/ some strong detergent it out and leave it, or treat it w/ rust killer( are the tanks tin lined? ) not that keen to put a paint like coating in as I have seen them come loose and cause more trouble?--all the best for the new Year--Barry
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Hi Mates
I was out testing the Tr4 this morning before the temp' got to 39 c, when it just stopped, lack of fuel I thought, gauge almost on E, walked back home about 1 k put 4 liters in, still nothing coming out, about 2 hours later went back w/ another 4 Lts ( getting hot now) when I pumped the fuel lever it looked like the fuel was moving in the bowl but nothing going up to carbies , took the bowl off still nothing,, I then fitted a small gravity tank,, l that worked and I drove it home ,. got out of the heat till about 5pm, went out to the car to find fuel leaking out where removed bowl was , its below the tank level,,( looked like it had just started), , put the bowl back on and now it's back to normal , could have been vacuum in the tank?, but I open the cap several times or something floating in the tank, It was at empty ----another thing while I was out the test ,, the gear lever needs to put reverse gear very firmly or it jumps out , the last mm means a lot ( thinking might fail the test on that) ,, I remember I "may" have built up the gear lever ( in the selector area to stop it rattling ),,,,maybe that is stopping the movement? any thoughts --all the best for the season-----barry
TR4 has resonance/ noise / vibration
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi mates -------took it for another spin w/ a friend, so, it's not dependent on speed, it comes in around 2300 goes at 2700 revs , my mate said vibration but all I think is a loud roar that hard on the ears, So what's the symptom of an out of balance engine? --Barry