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barrytr4

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About barrytr4

  • Birthday 01/30/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Perth Western Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4

Recent Profile Visitors

304 profile views
  1. Hi Chaps--I recomend the "Drill Doctor" they have several models, not that cheap though , I've got 3/4" model does a very good job, also my one ( not all?) can split the points and sharpen masonry/tungsten drills for drilling hard metal Barry
  2. Hi Grit to me it sound fuel supply issue, "I wouldn't rely at Fuel at carb's", I would recheck all components again ? , Something floating in fuel tank?,,make sure the fuel supply is OK, L/pump, pressure / vacuum w/ a gauge and then flow, , fuel line may part blocked , also rotor arms can pack-up--barry
  3. Hi Chums took the Tr4 for about 100ks run today and the top was fine, not a hint of it coming up after increasing the tension to the webbing' / top section of the hood thanks for all the tips-------Barry
  4. Hi Adrian I would keep going to make it fit, I tried fitting HS6 on my tr4 but gave up ( I never had the right linkage) and got some H6 carbies , The car would look better w/ the right carbies at least you can see what you need to do, increase the grit size, or use a small scraper barry
  5. Hi mates Thanks for all the tips ,,The press studs at the front/top are ok, so, it was four thing's that I didn't have right,, two short "lift the dot" pins instead of two long, never folded the the webbing over, didn't use the clasp to strengthen the hole, and webbing was too loose , apart from them everthing was ok ,,will give update later in the week--Barry
  6. Hi mates it's a full s/top, think I've sorted it out, I didn't fit the clasp on the webbing ( or fold it over) and it just pulled and slacken off, I think I can use the normal lift the dot clasps and a longer lift the dot pin? ( i did wonder what the longer pins were for at the timer?--Barry
  7. Hi Roger Thanks for that, I have the proper inserts ( better than hack-saw blades),, So what about the webbing from the frame to back of the s/ top it that the thing that tightens it- ? Barry
  8. Hi mates--Still having problems w/ the soft-top leading edge coming up , noticed the webbing's at the back window are loose , I presume they have to be tight to pull the lip back into the ridge? but how tight?,, also the holes in the webbing have elongated, I should of at least folded the ends, or do they need eyelets ie a metal ring around the holes regards Barry
  9. Hi Chums--I know it's only "entertainment" and a "good show" but see how he put the cam chainwheel without a care, not bothering to check the timing marks ? that's because they are not there, the next time you the cam gear it's flipped over to it's right position, I recon' someone else is rebuilding that engine, the right way? Barry
  10. Hi Mates--Another thing ( yes, I know it's easy to criticise when someone else is doing the work) but the way he put the main bearing/ block felt seal placed along the grove would pour out oil, it needs to be soaked in gasket goo and hammered in solid----Barry
  11. Hi Mates I was out in the Tr last Sunday, a chap came up to as I was driving off, he said "I got two Bug-Eyes " I replied I though you looked uncomfortable Barry
  12. Hi Chums Ian, Your right, I'm British from the Wirral, light running till it's run in then we will see............... thanks for the replies , will give it good run, I know it's been very cold in the UK, USA, but it's been very hot here , got to stay out of the heat----hey I'm 73 -------Barry
  13. Hi hamish--I've been to Wave Rock, I'm originaly from the Wirral UK--Barry
  14. Mike I never lock mine, or the doors and boot and don't have an valuables in the car when I'm out, what's the point on a convertable , even on a hard top it would take them 1 sec' to open it with a medium screwdriver( and damage it)--so might as well leave every thing open--Barry
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