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GeoffreyS

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Posts posted by GeoffreyS

  1. On 9/15/2021 at 8:41 PM, RogerH said:

    Hi Geoff,

    you can make a rudimentary thickness gauge using a small magnet and spring balance

    As the paint gets thicker its ability to hold a magnet reduces.

    So using an unpainted sheet of mild steel - somehow attach the magnet to the spring balance -place the magnet on the steel and gently pull.

    Read the value on the spring balance.

    Repeat  this process but add a sheet of paper for each pull.  The value on the spring balance will reduce.

    Plot this on a graph - paper thickness on the Y axis and pull value on the X axis.

    Now try it on the car.   There will be a small variation of magnetic attraction between the car and the test plate but shouldn't make too much of a difference.

    The same can be applied on Chrome with a steel base - but you will need a new test plate.

     

    Roger

    PS - I posted this before Mick - but I forgot to press 'send'

    Hello Roger,

    Thank you.  That is fascinating.  Using that method would make one really in touch with one’s car.  Modern equipment is clever but the traditional techniques have the charm.
     

    Thanks  

    Geoff 

  2. Does anyone know where I can borrow or inexpensively hire a paint thickness gauge, please?  I plan to machine polish my TR6 and would love to use a paint gauge for about 10 or 15 minutes.  I’d rather not spend £100 or so on a machine that I probably won’t use again for a few years, at least.  Thank you.   I’m in SW London. 

  3. 1 hour ago, RogerH said:

    Hi Geoff,

    I didn;t like the way that the TR4/4A vent lid would go rusty so I made a stainless steel one.

    The hinge is also stainless. This was then bonded (glued) to the lid with some very expensive aero Araldite.

    If you could machine the slots I could make the lid and then you could fix it to the hole in your car.

    It would only be flat rather than shaped like the plastic one.

    Roger

    Hello Roger,

     

    Thank you.  That’s kind of you. Sadly, I don’t have a machining capability.  I’ll have to keep looking.  Thanks, again. 
     

     

  4. 8 minutes ago, saffrontr said:

    CP25001 was indeed the first commission number, Triumph built it along with CC25001 and CC25002 off line in July 1968. A real workhorse indeed for lots of development  not being sold by them until April 1975. 

    Best of luck with the chrome vent flap Geoffrey I'm sure that with some of the pointers above you will develop a solution. Keep us informed of progress.

    Derek

     

    That’s kind of you, Derek.  Thank you. 

  5. 19 minutes ago, saffrontr said:

    Triumph did look at a slotted metal vent when they were developing the 1972 model CC and CR series, it was just painted mind you. The attached image shows it fitted to CP25001-O along with other mods to the manifolds and clutch master cylinder etc

    Derek   

     

    88624 - CP25001 resize.jpg

    Thank you, Derek.  That looks good. 

  6. 4 hours ago, stuart said:

    I have back converted a CR with a grille to the CP version with a flap, the difficult bit is getting the actuating lever and quadrant that fits behind the dash, there also seems to be a bit of a shortage of vent flaps at the moment.

    Stuart.

    Thanks, Stuart.  That’s a bit more advanced than my pay grade!  I’ll keep looking for a metal vent.  

  7. 9 hours ago, rcreweread said:

    Geoffrey - sorry, I completely misunderstood- I thought you wanted to change the grill for the earlier opening flap type one and chrome that!!! Doh

    seriously though, I think some people have changed the grill for a flap  to stop water entering the plenum chamber so I believe it is doable

    cheers Rich 

    Thanks, Rich. 

  8. I experienced the same.  Gosh it is embarrassing.  I have a MotoLita steering wheel.  If stated to develop a little bit of forward/backward play.  Only about 1/16th”.   Enough to upset the earth.   To stop the horn sounding, until I could have it remedied, I had to pull the steering wheel toward me while driving.  (Removing the horn fuse gave for an easier, although not legal, drive). 

  9. Evening,

    I am looking to replace the silver-painted plastic scuttle vent on my CR with a metal one, which I shall have chromed.  
     

    Does anyone know of a source for a metal vent, please?  All I can find are plastic ones.  
     

    Thank you. 

    D75374C2-FA89-47E6-A70F-6DB72B71FB85.jpeg

  10. On 10/20/2020 at 9:55 AM, john.r.davies said:

    Many seem to consider that a 'fuel enhancer' (enhancing what?) is like Popeye's spinach, producing a magical performance improvement.    Additives can be hepful, but you need to know what you are doing, not sprinkling fairy dust.

    "5 star" was 100 octane, and modern fuels like BP Ultimate or Shell V-Power are rated at 99 octane.   But what does that mean?   Absolutely nothing about 'performance'; it refers to the tendency of the fuel to knock, pre-ignite, in the face of increased compression ratio, and the ratio of iso-octane, a hydrocarbon that has a high resistance to knock, to heptane, another hydocarbon that is the reverse.       The fuel in the pump will have a knock resistance the same as a mixture of the two in that proportion.     Raising the compression does increase performance, but there is no advantage in using a higher octane fuel that one that will burn without knock in your engine.

    My engine was built to a CR of 10.5, really the limit for pump fuel.    This became obvious one spring, when on first trip with overwintered fuel it knocked, badly.    But a fill up with new fuel stopped it at once. 

    JOhn

    Thank you, John 

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