GeoffreyS
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Posts posted by GeoffreyS
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On 3/10/2024 at 7:10 PM, Jonny TR6 said:
Don’t tempt me - it’s addictive…
Congratulations, Johnny, on the paintwork transformation. It is great to see. I agree with you, polishing is enjoyable. The results are instant, and immensely satisfying. I came across Mitchell & King products a month or so ago. They are made in the UK. I haven’t used them yet, but I trust they will satisfy my automotive urge for deep, wet gloss! Next on my list is a nano polisher. As you say, it’s addictive.
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On 1/22/2024 at 1:52 PM, Hawk said:
As much out of curiosity as anything else but also ever eager to try something new ..... how do you start your TR6 and is there a 'correct' way.
Regardless of how long stood for, I turn ignition on to prime injectors for 30 seconds, pull out choke lever fully and crank for 2 or 3 seconds .... giving the accelerator a quick blip just as the motor catches. Even if left for a few weeks, I can normally start after only a couple of cranks. -
On 3/12/2024 at 10:03 AM, harrytr5 said:
Where are you Geoff ?
Bypass the rheostat. Speedo and rev counter out. Disconnect the glove box stay. Take out the five securing screws. Pull dash forwards and you may have to undo the oil feed pipe for better access. You can then see where the wiring is on the rheostat and bypass it. Red cables to join red and white. Solder Bullet connectors and sleeves.
Regards Harry
Hello Harry,
Thank you for the information. I can follow what you instruct, but I think it is beyond my physical scope, sadly.
I’m in Clerkenwell.
Regards,
Geoff
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Thank you. Yes, the side lights and number plate lights work. Everything works except what is controlled by the rheostat knob. I just don’t know where to look.
Thank you.
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Just now, Drewmotty said:
Often caused by a dodgy rheostat. Turn it back and forth robustly to clean the track off. If that doesn’t work then short out the two wires on the back. If it still doesn’t work then you’re into tracing the supply back. As you don’t have any working it will most likely be a wire fallen off the supply on the back of the lighting switch.
Thank you. I’ll see if I can do that.
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When I turn on the headlights, the dash dial lights do not come on. The indicators, full beam and ignition lights on the dash work fine, but otherwise all gauges are dark. The rheostat turns, but nothing.
Has anyone had an experience of this, please?
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On 2/22/2024 at 11:50 AM, stuart said:
I use this guy, really good service, very reliable, not cheap but the best Ive come across. https://www.coveredcars.co.uk/
Stuart.
Hello Stuart,
Thank you for the introduction. It was a seamless delivery. Good communication, punctual, polite and for a fair price. Absolutely perfect. I highly recommend them.
Kind regards,
Geoffrey
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On 2/22/2024 at 2:31 PM, Hamish said:
thought I recognised that post code. I used to live in WA16 0TE
Given where you are contact trbitz see who they use.they are only up the road.
https://www.trbitz.comAlso Co- located at the same site is Adam Sykes a classic race car sales place who will also have contacts for very reliable transport
Thank you. In fact I am buying from there. Struggling to find an enclosed transporter. I don’t want my car exposed on the motorway.
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On 2/22/2024 at 11:50 AM, stuart said:
I use this guy, really good service, very reliable, not cheap but the best Ive come across. https://www.coveredcars.co.uk/
Stuart.
Thank you, Stuart. I’ll contact him. Appreciated.
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Hello,
I have a TR to be transported from WA16 0SD to London. If there is a covered/enclosed transport service on here please be in touch.
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On 1/12/2024 at 6:08 PM, PodOne said:
Just my opinion but if its leaking, its leaking and a waste of time your at best kicking the can down the track.
Best bite the bullet and sort it properly. Gooey fixes are fine for when you are miles away from home and you have no parts.
Just my thoughts!
Andy
Thank you, Andy. Good advice.
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14 hours ago, RogerH said:
The heater removal on the TR4 - 5 is surrounded in mystery and anecdotal dread.
It tackled calmly and logical it is not a bad jobl
2 rubber pipes that are cut off (they are usually old and crusty.
Three screws/nuts
A bit of furniture and cables to be cleared.
The last time I removed/fitted my gear box I took the heater out to give more access. Added about 30 minutes to the whole job.
Roger
Thank you.
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20 hours ago, Mike C said:
If the coolant wasn't changed and the car sat idle for a few years there are probably pockets of corrosion in the radiator and heater core. Maybe in the cast iron block but this is far more robust when it comes to resisting corrosion than the heater and radiator- except for the engine welch plugs.
Pressure testing will find most leaks that are worth worrying about.
A poorly maintained TR5 is a rare find indeed, I assume the price will reflect its condition.
21 hours ago, JohnC said:TBH the engine (and heater) are hardly an issue compared to the body and chassis. If the body and chassis are good then maybe have a haggle for the fun of it. After all, how many hours will it take you to replace the heater? And how much to have the engine fully reconditioned? With the price of TR5s it's getting close to a drop in the ocean. A body resto though, that's a different story.
My 2¢ worth. And I can't afford a TR5 so I'm just jealous
Cheers,
JC21 hours ago, JohnC said:TBH the engine (and heater) are hardly an issue compared to the body and chassis. If the body and chassis are good then maybe have a haggle for the fun of it. After all, how many hours will it take you to replace the heater? And how much to have the engine fully reconditioned? With the price of TR5s it's getting close to a drop in the ocean. A body resto though, that's a different story.
My 2¢ worth. And I can't afford a TR5 so I'm just jealous
Cheers,
JCThank you.
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21 hours ago, John Morrison said:
Geoffrey
understand your thinking and difficult to be definitive.
You could test the antifreeze content of the fluid in the system if there is antifreeze then corrosion is less likely
If there is just water then you might look further and a starting point would be the radiator
How far you wish to go is up to you and the seller, think for me if there is antifreeze in the system and it’s the car you want then I’d buy it.
Are you in the Register and do you attend your local group
This is a classic case where that could be a great help for you, take a local who knows our cars- second pair of eyes etc.
John
Hello John,
Thank you.
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On 1/8/2024 at 11:43 PM, Mike C said:
My heater matrix started leaking , and as you say, its a horrible job to replace it. For a few years I ran the car with the heater supply and return lines connected. To do this I disconnected the heater lines at the firewall escutcheon connector then joined them with a 1/2 inch copper U bend and heater hoses. It made no difference to the engine cooling- I guess it's the same as running the engine with the heater on anyway.
I finally replaced the core in 2022 because I was starting to use the car more in cold weather. And it was a horrible job.
Thank you.
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14 hours ago, RogerH said:
The heater removal on the TR4 - 5 is surrounded in mystery and anecdotal dread.
It tackled calmly and logical it is not a bad jobl
2 rubber pipes that are cut off (they are usually old and crusty.
Three screws/nuts
A bit of furniture and cables to be cleared.
The last time I removed/fitted my gear box I took the heater out to give more access. Added about 30 minutes to the whole job.
Roger
Thank you.
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11 hours ago, PodOne said:
Hi Geoffrey
Depends how its failed if its just a slow leak and being recognised early the block is likely ok. Even if it failed completely in one goI'm sure the driver with a scolded foot and steam from the dash they would have stopped I suspect before any major damaged. It may also just be a pipe that has a leak or needs a new jubilee clip where it attaches to the matrix under the dash?
If your considering buying it its a negotiation factor but in the grand scheme of how much a TR5 costs its small beer. It's not complicated just labour intensive and therefore costly unless you do it yourself as the dash has to come out. No different to your present 6, if it is different I'm sure others will advise. The only issue I had on the 6 was the nuts that attach the heater box to the bulkhead were rusted so be careful you don't shear the studs as you will then have to weld new ones into place. That is if none knows of another fix.
Once it's off it's an easy replace and a chance to refresh the unit and consider fitting a better fan (Spal). Plenty of info on how and what.
Andy
Hello Andy,
Thanks very much for your reply. Appreciated.
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8 hours ago, Mike C said:
My heater matrix started leaking , and as you say, its a horrible job to replace it. For a few years I ran the car with the heater supply and return lines connected. To do this I disconnected the heater lines at the firewall escutcheon connector then joined them with a 1/2 inch copper U bend and heater hoses. It made no difference to the engine cooling- I guess it's the same as running the engine with the heater on anyway.
I finally replaced the core in 2022 because I was starting to use the car more in cold weather. And it was a horrible job.
Thank you. I am concerned that the coolant fluid may have corroded the matrix (the car was not used for a couple of years) and may also have corroded the engine and radiator. Leap of faith!
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1 hour ago, John Morrison said:
Hi Geoffrey,
back to you original question.
No, the heater matrix should have no implications for the engine.
It is a difficult job fiddly rather than technical, and you certainly want at least £500 off the price of the car.
If you go ahead and buy the car, and then are doing the swop yourself, then I would consider one of the more modern ,
non original, (Well out of site once fitted) but less expensive and more efficient units such as this one from car builder solutions;-
5.2KW CAR HEATER KIT 278MM
Others on here have fitted items such as this, and I'm sure will be along to advise.
John.
Hello John,
Thanks very much. What I am worried about is (the car has not been used for a couple of years) is if the coolant fluid was left in the car while not used and now corroded the heater matrix, it may also have corroded the engine and radiator.
Thanks,
Geoffrey
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11 hours ago, Malbaby said:
Is a TR5 an upgrade from a TR6?
I think it is. A great combination of beautiful body with 150bhp engine.
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I am considering upgrading from a TR6 to a TR5. The TR5 I have seen has a broken heater matrix. I realise this is a pricey and complicated part to replace, but I would like to know if the broken heater matrix would have any implications on the engine block.
If any members have any knowledge of this I would be most grateful for your thoughts
Thank you.
Geoffrey
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I am considering upgrading from a TR6 to a TR5. The TR5 I have seen has a broken heater matrix. I realise this is a pricey and complicated part to replace, but I would like to know if the broken heater matrix would have any implications on the engine block.
If any members have any knowledge of this I would be most grateful for your thoughts
Thank you.
Geoffrey
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Silvabronz will be able to rechrome mazak/zamak
Silvabronz@beckworth.net
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I have great results with Shell V Power plus Valvemaster Plus. This gets the fuel very close to 100.
Geoff
Paintwork fettling - not for the faint hearted !
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by GeoffreyS
Glad my hobby has given you laughter.