[TR4a Windscreen Frame]

Thanks Graeme

 

These are exactly as you descricbe & are just piece spot welded on.

 

I was just suprised that the tappings for the 4A hood fittings were there when I didnt think they were used on the 4

 

Dave

[TR4a Windscreen Frame]

Dave,

 

If the 'rain gutters' are in the recess where the side window fits, then they are not gutters, but are retainers for the two piece seal fitted to the TR4 and deleted on the TR4A. They should be easy to remove for the TR4A.

 

If I am in the wrong area, can you post a picture.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

 

[TR4a Windscreen Frame]

Some time ago I aquired a windscreen frame that was supposed to be from a 4a

 

All the holes for the sun visor brackets & hood fittings are in the correct places but it has rain gutters up each side which are not on my original frame.

 

I know that several other models had similar frames but has anybody any idea what it would have come off?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Replacement Windscreen]

You could talk to TRGB. In the early part of this year they had sent some back as the curve was incorrect. The one they supplied later looked perfect when compared with the frame.

I think the manufacturer was St Gobain

When I fitted it with a new seal (which I already had but wasnt bought from TRGB) it fitted very easily except that the seal did not fit tight to the frame on the corners but I suspect this was a problem with the seal rather than the gless.

 

Dave

[Tonneau]

Thanks for the opinions chaps.

I started to get quite excited about Badfrogs garterbelt idea until i realised how difficult it could be to get seagull **** out of stretchy black lace. It was bad enough last year when they managed to do some low level bombing runs and fire the **** through the radiator grille.

Also how do I explain to the wife why I'm disappearing into the garage with ladies underwear.

I think some experimentation is in order

 

Dave

[Tonneau]

Hi All

 

I see Marko has a tonneau for a 5/early 6 for sane on ebay

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between this & one for a 4A

 

And now to the stupid part. Has anyone any thoughts as to an alternative method of fixing the cover along the top of the doors.

I do dot want to drill the doors & fit the press stud bases as I think these look dreadful.

I would only use a cover when parked to keep the local seagulls from using the interior as their private privy.

I have been considering flexible magnets sewn into the cover but any other suggestions would be welcome.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Fuel Pump & Pipe Problem?]

Thanks for the replies. I wasnt able to investigate much yesterday ( MotoGP & family comitments).

 

The carbs were checked & cleaned after the pipe disintegrated so I'm fairly sure the they are OK

 

I took the plugs out, took the filter out & fitted a pipe leading into a can & spun the engine over on the starter.

 

The fuel pump appears to give plenty of flow but the pressure seems very low. The flow can be stopped by light finger pressure over the end of the pipe.

 

I'm a bit concerned that the pump valves can't be replaced and I think the next step is a rebuildable pump if such things are available these days.

 

Dave

[Fuel Pump & Pipe Problem?]

1. Remove the fuel filter up near the carbs and see what happens. These often get air in them and cause problems. Originally, TRs didn't have these. Maybe you don't need it and maybe you don't want to have it cause a problem.

 

2. Clean out the screen filter in the glass bowl and also clean the glass bowl below the fuel pump, reinstall it and see what happens.

 

3. With the upper hose off, pull the trigger on the bottom of the fuel pump and see if it manually pumps fuel up to the filters.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

Hi Don

 

I Had considered taking the filter out but thought that ay least for the time being P could see that the carbs were taking more fuel than the pump was pusging through.

 

The pump does not have the priming lever. I guess its a pattern pump.

 

I will either turn the engine over by hand or take the pump off the block and work the lever which contacts the camshaft.

 

Dave

[Fuel Pump & Pipe Problem?]

Sorry if this goes on a bit.

The PO of my 4A had fitted an inline fuel filter close to the carb inlet mounted between two short lenghts of stainless braid covered hose. This was not well done and the pipe from the pump loops over the top rad hose and down to the carbs.

One of these short pipes had started to leak and when I took it off it completely disintegrated..

Both the hoses were replaced and a new filter fitted. The filter was filled with fuel prior tn installation.

Stated up & left the car running to check for leaks only to watch the filter slowly empty.

Refilled filter - same result.

As I had a fuel pump repair kit I decided to take the top off the fuel pump & check the valves etc.

With the top removed the diaphragm looks OK but the valves are not retaind by a plate but appear to be pressed into the casting.

I checked the valves by blowing through the ports and while there is a little leakage it didn't seem significant.

As I didnt want to damage the pump by trying to prise the valves out it was all reassembled and the inline filter primed.

Car srarted, glass bowl filter filled quickly but again the inline filter slowly emptied.

The pump is obviously delivering fuel but I assume not enough.

Now to the questions

 

Can I replace the pump valves?

 

Should I consider an electric pump & if so which one and is a pressure regulator required?

 

Any other ideas welcome.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dave

[Running on]

Monty

 

When I bought my 4a 2 years ago I had the same problem even though it is fitted with an anti run on valve.

It has an unleaded head so I ran it on normal unleaded and from the plug colour the mixture looked OK.

If I fill up with Optimax the running on disapears but not immediatley.

I can only assume that Optimax burns hotter or cleaner and removes some of the carbon deposits that are glowing and causing the engine to run on,

If I change back to normal unleaded it can take some time for the running on to return. I cant say I notice any real improvement in performance with Optimax althouth it does seem to run more smoothly

 

DaveM

[High oil pressure when hot]

My 4A also has a higher oil pressure when hot but it is only noticeable at above 2500rpm when it rises to 80 -90 psi

It has also been more noticeable since the last oil change. Penrite 20/50

I have aways assumed that the oil gets thinner as it gets hot but with modern multigrades is this correct.

If the viscosity rises then this could explain an increase in pressure.

The other possible explanation is that the relief valve cannot pass enough oil to relieve the pressure.

 

DaveM

[Boot lid lock]

Bob

The catch bollted to the body on my 4A has a pln about 3/8" dia and 1/2" long mounted on it that the latch on the boot lid hooks on to.

I'm not sure whether this is removeable or not but would have thought that if yours was missing there would be a hole in the plate where it had been.

 

DaveM

[Coolant loss]

Hi Pete

Even here in darkest Suffolk we've progressed to £sd or did you mean Guinness'

I hope to get about more next year so perhaps we might share a jar somewhere.

 

Dave

[Coolant loss]

Hi Unc

I think you hit the nail on the head dead centre

Isnt it amazing how easy it is to miss the blindingly obvious.

 

The 4 psi cap has no rubber washer to seal the cap to the top of the rad neck so the water doesnt go into the bottle.

The old 7psi cap has the washer.

 

Graeme is right. Although the workshop manual states it should be 4psi

both Moss and Rimmers list 7 psi for the 4A.

 

I've got to admit that I think I even asked for a 4psi cap so I cant even blame the supplier athough my memory isnt what I like to think it was.

 

Thanks to all for the input.

I hope this topic is ended,

Watch this space. Hopefully it remains blank

 

:laugh:

 

Dave

[Coolant loss]

Hi all

 

Thanks for the replies

 

I changed to the 4psi cap because the thats what my manual said it should be and it seemed like a good idea at the time.

 

Maybe its the rotor arm syndrome.

 

I ran the engine up from cold to operating temp. with the 7psi cap on and left it idling for about 10 min. No sign of a leak.

 

Went for a 20 mile brisk run down the A14. No coolant loss.

 

The overflow bottle has a lid that can only be described as 'loose' and the pipe to it isnt blocked.

 

What I dont understand is that if it is the cap which looks likely why the coolant didnt go into the bottle.

 

Also the intermitant frothing in the rad is strange. I would have thought that a head gasket problem would give a faily steady stream of bubbles and would also blow the water out of the overflow.

 

My parts book doesnt show core plugs except for one at the end of the camshaft and I cant see any.

 

Further investigation is going to have to wait till I have time to go for a long run to see if the problem has gone away.

 

Dave

[Coolant loss]

Hi Pete

 

No sign of a leak.

However when I bought the car a couple of years ago it was fitted with a 7 psi rad cap. This was replaced with the correct(?) 4 psi cap in the summer.

I have just put the old cap back and done a brisk 20 mile run with no loss so it may well be a faulty cap.

If this is the case I dont understand why the coolant doesnt wind up on the overflow bottle

 

Dave

[Coolant loss]

Hi all

 

For the last few weeks I have been loosing coolant at the rate of about a pint in 70 miles.

I can find no trace of a leek and the level in the overflow bottle doesnt go up.

There is also no sign of water in the oil.

Today I ran the engine from cold with the rad cap removed and as the stat opened there was a lot of bubbles in the water.

Continuing to run at a fast idle the bubbles clear and then reoccur a few seconds later.

The only thing I can think of is the head gasket but I cannot understand why the bubbles are not continuous or why the water doesnt get blown into the overflow.

 

Any good Ideas before I remove the head?

 

Thanks in advance

 

DaveM

[Windscreen frame vinyl trim]

Thanks Graeme

 

Will probably do the same once I've had the frame sprayed

 

DaveM

[Windscreen frame vinyl trim]

Could anybody give some advice on the best way to fit the vinyl trim on the 4a screen frame.

Rimmers list these as moulded or material only.

I assume the moulded version would be easier to fit as it wouldn't be necessary to stretch the vinyl round at the corners of the screen.

These items dont appear to be in the Moss catalogue

 

Thanks in advance

 

DaveM

[tr4]

Kingston Sportscars at Ixworth in Suffolk

 

Phone Tony Lindsey-Dean on 01359 269777

 

Apparently he also does a very nice range of cams and roller rockers

 

DaveM

[Triumph Racing Green]

My 4a is laurel green

 

I have some laurel cellulose that I could either send a small sample of or spray a sample on a bit of plate.

 

Send me a mail with your address or give me a ring on 07866 136159

 

DaveM

[TR4/4A windscreen]

I thought it was a good price too and was very pleased with it. The best I'd seen by far.

Original paint and only a very small amount of surface rust and  even better only 15 miles from where I live.

Clive is a nice guy to deal with.

 

I think the 4 and 4A screens are identical except for the drilling for the hood catches on the 4A

 

Regards

 

DaveM

[Drain holes & fan]

Thanks for that jonlar.

I'm making up a secondary harness as I'm changing to an alternator and taking a two new feeds to the front of the car with relays for the lights and spotlights at the same time so adding a few more wires shouldn't be too difficult

 

DaveM

[Drain holes & fan]

Thanks for the infomation guys.

There are definately no holes in either the sills or the door bottoms so I guess the trolley jack and stands Father Christmas is going to bring me will get used earlier than expected

 

DaveM

[Drain holes & fan]

I've been enjoying my TR for a year now and need to start thinking about some work over the winter.

 

One project is a good coating of waxoil on the underside and in the chassis box sections but there is way to get any in the sills as there are no drain holes

 

Is this normal? Should I drill into the lowest part of the sill ore in from the wheel arches and fit sealing plugs.

 

There are also no drain holes in the doors. Should there be any>

 

I also intend fitting a manual switch fot the Kenlowe fan.

Does this switch connect across the existing terminals on the themostat that are used for auto operation or somehow to the unused terminal on the stat.

 

Thanks in advance

 

DaveM