[Seized Engine]

Hi

 

Pour some diesel in the bores & leave for a day or two to soak. Then try the block of wood & hammer again.

 

I find diesel much better than WD40 as it doesnt evaporate so quickly..

 

Good luck

 

Dave

[Rocker Shaft Mills Pins]

Thanks Guys

 

Looks like its going to be split pins.

 

regards

 

Dave

[Rocker Shaft Mills Pins]

Hi all

 

I have all the parts to replace my rocker shaft & rockers except for the mills pins that hold the end caps to the shaft.

 

Is it OK to re-use the old pins?

 

I don't want to risk one coming out & falling down a pushrod tube

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Brake problem - Holding on]

Hi all

 

As an update to my post I disconnected the servo vacuum pipe and the problem with the brakes holding on has disappeared so obviously the servo needs replacing.

Having checked all the usual suspects the price of a replacement varies considerably from about £95 to over £200

While I am a great believer in you get what you pay for this does seem a big difference.

Has anyone bought a servo recently.& where from?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Brake problem - Holding on]

Thanks for the replies

 

My 4A doesn't have a restrictor fitted & I,m fairly sure that the valve in the master cylinder just stops the fluid returning to the reservoir,

 

Is there any way that a servo can be tested? Would it be OK to disconnect the servo from the manifold & plug the manifold & try it like that?

 

Dave

[Brake problem - Holding on]

Had a grand day out yesterday. 180 miles up through Thetford, Swaffham & Fakenham to Wells, along the coast to Cromer & home via Norwich & the 4a ran perfectly except for a problem on the way home.

In stop/start traffic through Norwich it felt as though the front brakes were hanging on under light braking although they were releasing as soon as I got moving.

Then on a couple of occasions the brake pedal had no movement at all when pressed although another press and it returned to normal..

I am guessing that this must be either sticking pistons in the caliper or pads tight on the pins.

The car has a servo fitted & uses Dot4 fluid.

Its going to be be a couple of weeks before I can have a good look.

Any other suggestions what could cause this?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Another overdrive problem]

Best way to avoid the clunk is to engage overdrive with the throttle wide open, so that the overdrive clutch will slip briefly as operation is engaged. With an uprated overdrive (which I have), dipping the clutch does not prevent the clunk (it lessens it), whereas full throttle changes are marvellously smooth and fast.

 

When disengaging, open the throttle slightly (and momentarily) as the switch is flipped. If you are able to heel & toe, you can do this whilst braking.

 

As to the change in operation: I wonder whether the solenoid is operating solely on the hold-in coil (i.e. the pull-in coil may not be working). See my article in Section D, page D-49 et seq. of the Technicalities CD for a detailed explanation.

 

Ian Cornish

 

 

Thanks Ian

 

I will check the solenoid at the weekend & try your technique for engaging

 

Dave

[Another overdrive problem]

Hi all

 

The PO of my 4A had an 'uprated overdrive' fitted and it has always engaged with a hefty thump so much so that I have always dipped the clutch slightly to take the load off the diff mounts. I assume he had the larger piston fitted

Recently I had a problem when it wouldn't engage at all but this turned out to be a wire in the logic box which bad come adrift so easily fixed.

Now it has started to engage much more gently.

It stays engaged and doesn't appear to slip

I actually quite like it how it is now.

 

Any idea what would cause this softer engagement and am I likely to do any damage until I can sort it out.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dave

[Tachometer Fault]

Dave

 

Not sure this helps but I had problems with my speedo doing a wild dance earlier this year, checked the inner cable etc etc also ensure the square drive at the head end is in good shape.

 

In the end after advice from the forum I sent it to JDO Instruments in Keighley who fixed it and sent it back within 48 hrs, very good service and very helpful. Also not expensive at around £65.

 

Cheers.

 

Nick.

 

 

Thanks Nick

 

I'll give them a ring

 

Dave

[Tachometer Fault]

My Tacho has just developed a strange fault.

 

It remains steady until I go over a large bump or brake hard and then the needle will oscilate wildly for a few seconds before steadying.

 

I have pulled out the inner cable but it looks fine with no signs of rubbing.

 

Any suggestions would be welcome

 

Dave

[Brake pads & shoes]

Hi All

 

I know that the subject of brake pads has been discussed at length & it looks as though Mintex 1144 are a popular choice for the pads.

 

I need to change the rear shoes so what do you all use and does the choice have much effect on handbrake performance.

 

I currently have Greenstuff pads which I think are 'woodon' so will change these at the same time.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Overdrive Switch]

No need to remove the column, the bottom cover can be removed and wiring fed in, it is easy to slacken all the column brackets (if needed) and removal of speedo and rev counter (5 mins) makes it even easier.

 

 

 

Thanks Pete

[Overdrive Switch]

Hi all

 

My 4a has the overdrive switch mounted on the gearstick but the original switch is still on the column.

 

I have been thinking about using the original switch as a dip switch using a changeover relay.

 

The originaal cables from the switch have been removed so I need to solder new cables to the swtch & feed them through the column.

 

Can I do this by just slackening the the column clamp & removing the harness cover under the column or do I have to remove the outer column?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Which Spotlights for the TR4a]

Hi All

 

This is all very strange.

 

Ive just had a quick look and the brackets look much more like the ones for a 4 than a 4A.

 

The holes in the bumper blade align perfectly with the bumper irons.

 

I guess I'll live with it till such time as I get some new bumpers,

 

Could be a long time.

 

Thanks for the assistance

 

Dave

[Which Spotlights for the TR4a]

Saggy

 

You are spot on, 4a and 5 smaller overidders and wider apart.

 

Cheers Carl

 

 

Thanks Carl

 

I didnt know that. Must have been changed by a PO as thats what it was like when I bought it.

 

Does that mean that the bumper & bumper irons are different as it looks as if I moved these overiders to the outer end of the iron they would partialy mask the indicators or is that why the 4A/5 overiders are smaller?

 

Cheers

Dave

[Which Spotlights for the TR4a]

I hadnt realised that the overriders on a 5 are wider apart than those on a 4A,

The nearer the lights come to the centre of the car the further forward you have to mount the lights to clear the bonnet.

This could be a factor when choosing your lights

The Wipacs can (just) be fitted to clear the bonnet & remain behind the line of the front of the overriders

 

 

Dave

[Which Spotlights for the TR4a]

I've just fitted a pair of the Wipac lights.

 

I havent tried them yet as I still have the wiring to do.

 

I didnt want to drill the bumper so I made a bar as shown on the photos which fits behind the bumper and attaches to the overrider screws.

 

I may gave to fit some tapered washers or mod the lights slightly if I need to angle the lights sideways.

 

Dave

[tr2 fuel pump]

I suspect that you will get an 8mm olive even if it is marked as being 5/16". The difference is minimal, 5/16 is 7.9375mm. The olive will easily compress to cover that small discrepancy.

 

Rgds Ian

 

 

I had this problem on my 4a recently when I replaced some fuel pipes.

I found that the olives that had a domed top surface worked OK but some had two tapered faces & a stop between them.

The ones with the stop leaked & I had to resort to sweating them to the pipe.

 

Dave

[A Stupid Question]

Thanks Stuart

 

Thats just what I wanted to hear as I really did not want to take the wings off.

 

Dave

[A Stupid Question]

My 4A does not appear to have the rubber seals that fit between the baffle plate & front wings.

 

Do I have to remove the wings in order to fit them & how do the clips retain the seal.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Front overriders]

Hi Dave, on my 4 I didn't notice a bit which tucked under the bumper - do you have a 4a?

 

 

Thanks. It is a 4a

 

Dave

[Front overriders]

Just looked at mine - the tucked under bit is towards the middle

 

 

Thanks John. I thought that was the way they came off but wasnt sure,

 

Dave

[Front overriders]

Hi All

 

This might seem like a really stupid question but I have removed rhe overriders from the front bumpers while I make a mounting bar for a pair of driving lamps.

 

Now I cone to put them back on I cant remember which is the RH & which is the LH.

 

Each one has one side which tucks under the bumper & one side which doesnt.

 

Should the part which tucks under the bumper go to the middle or outside of the car.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[Worn rockers]

Thanks for all the advice.

 

I dont think I could justify the cost of roller rockers so so I'll order a set of standard rockers & a new shaft.

 

Is it worth going for a tuftrided shaft on a standard engine that doesnt do that many miles?

 

Dave

[Worn rockers]

Thanks Roger

 

There is an engineering company opposite where I work so they may have an adjustable reamer I could borrow.

 

I may well wait till over winter when time isn't such an issue & strip the assembly out & make a decision based on how badly the rockers are worn.

 

Regards

 

Dave