D Murton
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Posts posted by D Murton
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What tablets are you lot on? I need some.
Farmed haggis don't taste nearly as good as the wild ones.
Dave
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I think you had better stick with TR GOLD Paul.
I can't see any of the suppliers lining up to label parts as S**TE even if they are.
Dave
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It might be easier to introduce TR BROWN.
The **** parts are easier to identify
Dave
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If you still have the Petronix ignition fitted I think this does away with the capacitor.
Dave
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David
Here are a couple of pictures of my hood catches. There is plenty of room to get ny fingures between catch & hood
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Mark. On my 4a the upper face of the part fixed to the screen frame (the female part) is just level with the lower edge of the aluminium frame capping.
The levers are about 12mm clear of the hood with the hood closed.
Could take a photo tomorrow if needed.
Dave
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I had the same problem. All went well until I said it was occasionally left on the drive overnight. They did finally agree that they could insure for this but at a 25% increase in premium. I eventually went with Peter James.
Perhaps they dont like the East Coast.
Dave
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Inspired by this thread & in particular the website of Paul (TR4A1965 ) I have decided to try recovering the lower crashpads on my 4A.
They are reasonable but the vinyl is split in a couple of places.
Can somebody suggest the correct vinyl. I assume this is the unbacked variety.
Also is the switch plinth recoverable or should I buy one from TR Shop?
Dave
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You could try Walter Petchey.
He is not far from you.
Dave
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The Mazda 'speakers in headrests' arrangement seems like a good option plus a boom box bass thing somewhere else.
Any comments?
Peter W
I have the MK1 high back seats with speakers. The original speakers are useless but I took these out and fitted two 4" Pioneer speakers in each headrest. Works quite well.
Dave
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Hi Dave,
this is a 50 year old quality issue by ST. Who are you going to complain to - everybody has gone.
I had this publish in TRAction back in th elate 90's and the Tech Ed's at the time didn't think much of it - the mind boggles.
I have run my mod'd shaft for 170,000+ miles with no problem - and that is with BOTH clamp arms cut through.
With only one arm cut through it will last forever and much longer.
Using the angle grinder shown above will cut through both. Using a milling machine you can cut through just the one.
Roger
Sorry. I assumed this was a replacement part.
Dave
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Roger
I understand the reasoning behind this mod but should we really be expected to modify a safety critical item.
Is his not a case for the PQI ?
Dave
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Get a new or old bolt with correct thread, ideally the crapiest softest bolt you can find and grind a chamfer on the leading threads and then use it to gently work into the damaged thread using some lubricant, it will be way softer than a tap and have little chance of damaging the existing threads but will normally gently remove any burs in the thread. Work it in and out until everything feels smooth, and the try the real bolt again, if it feels like its binding revert to the chamfered bolt and rework again.
Unless you have completely buggered the thread this will usually clean it up.
Alan
I have used this trick quite successfully on occasion (although not on a crankshaft). If you also file a groove down the length of the thread of the bolt it gives any burrs that break off somewhere to go rather than picking up on the thread.
Dave
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Myles
As far as I know most cigar lighters are the same size more or less.
On my 4A I made a bracket that fits under the dash hard up again the H frame on the passenger side.
This keeps the cable for the GPS out of the way so you don't catch it when changing gear
Dave
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You are welcome to use the the picture below for engineering reference!
Prepared a few years ago!
I would have thought holding the choke out was the least of your worries
Dave
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Many years ago I had the Frogeye version. I always thought they were supplied as a standard fitting as all Frogeye Srpites seemed to have one.
Mine had a short lanyard attached so that it didn't disappear into the footwell
Dave
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Hi Andrew,
only the facts. I was a customer with FJ and when somebody ran into the back of me I ended up paying more than I should have done -
no support what so ever form FJ.
The TRRi product is very similar to the old Towergate product
Roger
Roger
Was this with FJ or Towergate/FJ
Hi Roger,
So, one bad experience and FJ are condemned in favour of the TRR scheme which you haven't experienced .............not sure that's really fair?
Cheers
Andrew
Has anyone had experience of dealing wit the TRRI scheme after an accident rather than using the recovery scheme as this one of the most important issues and as far as I am aware nobody has reported any issues either for or against on this forum
Dave
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Thanks all. This was just something a group of us were discussing in the pub. It only applied to one of us who has a Riley Monaco but his inspection wasn't due and none of us knew the answer.
Dave
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Alec & Paul
I totally agree. My car requires an MOT and in fact I changed the garage that I used because I felt the inspector was not thorough enough.
I just wondered whether the VOSA system allowed a certificate to be issued to a vehicle that didn't need one.
Dave
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In TRA 283 is a letter from Andy Child of Rees Bros regarding the dangers of not having a pre 1960 car MOT tested.
He suggests, and I must say I agree with him, that it would be foolish not to have an annual inspection.although it is no longer a requirement.
BUT
As the MOT certificate is now a computer generated document presumably linked to the VOSA computer is it actually possible to get an MOT certificate on a pre 1960 car.
Has anyone had any experience?
Dave
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H all
I have recently purchased Mazda MX5 seats to fit my 4A. I am interested in the brackets previously supplied by SMEGGIE does anyone know his contact details please?
Chris
Chris
Have sent PM
Dave
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There are certainly companies here in the UK who could cast the sections.
Hadleigh castings here in Suffolk are certainly capable of casting these.
The major cost would be in producing the patterns and whether this would be economic for the relatively small number of units ultimately required I would think is doubtful.
Dave
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Like Darren I'm quite prepared to pay more for better quality but the problem is how do we know we are getting better quality.
Faced with a number of suppliers all selling, apparently, the same part at a range of prices which one do we pick.
It may be that the parts are all from the same manufacturer and the differences in price are due to that suppliers markup, turnover etc ore they may be from different manufacturers and different qualities.
Then we have the issue of 'uprated' parts. In some cases it will be obvious that these are different to the standard item e.g hubs but sometimes it isn't so obvious.
Does 'uprated' mean better quality than OE or better than the standard item which is ****?
I'm sure that the professionals on the forum, like Stuart, and the serial rebuilders & the long time TR owners all know where to source their parts for the best price/quality ratio but it isn't so easy for those of us who are fairly new to TRs.
I have to say I mostly deal with TRGB and find them very honest about the quality of parts. In one case a few years ago when I inquired about a windscreen I was told that they had them in stock but they were not a good fit & if I waited a month they would have some more in.
Returning to the OP by Dick it appears that a Fergie tractor crank is almost(?) identical to the Triumph 4 pot crank & is available for £240.but would require some additional machining, cross drilling etc.
I wonder what the price would be when marketed for a TR ?
Ever the cynic
Dave
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Now up and running again and all good
Graham
Not working for me. Still says 'It Works'
Dave
Mohair roof
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by D Murton
You're not supposed to plant them at all. They need space to roam & mate.