Richard Green 54
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Posts posted by Richard Green 54
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6 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said:
Getting at them requires a double jointed octopus!!
Not if you have the instruments and wooden dash out
I have just put my heater back in this afternoon, having replaced the fan motor. The worst thing is that your hands get cut to ribbons on the sharp metal behind the wood. But if you have removed the instruments and dash you can see the bolts and just sit in the seats and take them out. Also easier to remove/refit the heater hoses when you can see them through the instrument holes.
Dash and Instruments back in tomorrow hopefully.
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The three bolts that held my heater in came out really easily
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H frame out and glove box out and I think it is possible. But it is so much easier with the dash out and that is really not very difficult.
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The motor in the heater on my recently acquired 6 had failed. Armature windings shorted and wires to the motor melted as a result. The motor was completely shot.
I found these guys: https://www.thhs.co.uk/transport-heating-and-hose-supplies/product/736-12v-heater-motor-smiths-type-m1210-3925
They had a number of suitable motors but I bought the one pictured in the link as it was the closest match to the original. There are differences and you need to put a flat on the shaft if you want to fit the original fan. That took a few minutes with an angle grinder. If you can't be bothered with that they did have a different motor that already had the flat on it.
I also needed to modify the mount with the three legs as the mounting plate on the motor, the one with the 3 holes, is in a different position. To do that I had to drill out the three pop rivets that hold the original mounting assembly together and use some short spacers. That took me a little bit longer but if you have the parts then easily doable within an hour or so.
The picture below shows the trial assembly. I need to strip it down again to treat the rust on the tripod plate but everything fits OK.
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Flushing the cooling system and replacing all hoses. Also have the dash out trying to fix the faulty heater fan. That is not going well
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11 minutes ago, Stephen H said:
Hi Richard.
I replaced the motor in my heater earlier this year. I think the board looked ok in the motor I replaced, If you're interested I can dig it out. Your'e welcome to it no guarantee it will work but might be worth a try.
Cheers Stephen
Hi Stephen,
Thank you for the offer. If all else fails I might take you up on that.
But firstly, what did you replace your motor with? Did you manage to find an elusive replacement or change it for something else?
Regards,
Richard
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24 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Richard,
Revington do replacement motors - not cheap though.
Roger
I was on the Revington website earlier today. You are correct, not cheap.
I am currently looking for an alternative 2-speed 12v motor that I can fit into the existing heater unit. I am sure there is one out there somewhere.
Does anyone know what speeds the original Lucas motor was supposed to run at?
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Got my multi-meter out this morning and checked the heater wiring and there was a short in the motor circuit. So out came the heater and it is not good news. Was hoping for a few melted wires, which I certainly had. But the big problem was that the bakelite board that holds the motor brushes was cooked to death. Badly distorted, bubbled on the surface and it fell into two pieces when I took it out. So now I need a new motor. Bugger.
Sorry about the quality of the photos.
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Hi Glen,
I have just purchased a UK CR car with low mileage (48k) and it looks very original. I think it even has the original spare wheel judging by the date code on the tyre
Not perfect, but in a good overall state given that it is a 45 year old car. What I paid was in your price range and my car should be a good basis for a nice gentle rolling restoration. Only had it a few weeks and its already proving to be great fun
My recommendation is look carefully, take your time and walk away if you are not sure.
If you buy one and it falls to pieces as soon as you get it home the people on here will help you put it back together again. Compared to any modern car they are a joy to work on.
Richard
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If the problem has just started it could be that the contacts on a relay have welded closed.
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3 hours ago, elclem1 said:
Had the same problem as you but it was a short in the switch try taking that out of the circuit , use a feed + direct from the Battery and touch the green and yellow and the other green and colour to see that high and low speed work. If they work then it’s your switch shorting inside. Cheers Clem
Thanks Clem. That is certainly worth checking before I do anything more serious.
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3 hours ago, Peter keefe said:
Check the heater switch as there is an unused terminal at the rear that can often touch the metal dash causing the fuse to blow. Cap it off with a plastic sleeve
Thanks for the tip Peter. Took a look but nothing touching.
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Just caught up with this post... Excellent job, well done. Having previously carried out a similar restoration on a UK car I can appreciate the amount of commitment required.
My advice is sod the purists and do whatever suits you
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1 hour ago, ntc said:
Check that the fan is not stuck on the matrix.
Good call. I will make sure I run it before it gets back in.
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20 minutes ago, SpeedFreak said:
I had the exact same problem, it turns out to be typical poor design. the wiring for the motor inside the heater box runs too close to the low speed resistor, which generates high temperature when in circuit , i.e. low speed fan, This heats the insulation which can then sag and short out on the casing.
Solution i'm afraid is removal of the heater, repair of the wire and I strongly suggest some heat resistant tubing to cover said wire.
Good Luck
Richard..
Thanks Richard.
Looked at some photos online to remind myself of the layout and it does not seem like a particularly difficult job to get the heater out. Give me chance to sort out a few other wiring glitches while I am under the dash. Also a chance to replace all the water hoses with a new set that came with the car.
The car is in a small garage so I will wait for a nice clear day and get the car on the drive. I will then have a bit more room to play with.
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1 hour ago, pinky said:
Hi
I replaced the original heater with a squirrel fan, wich is three speed, I managed to fix the original switch head,onto the new switch now twist instead of pull but looks right
Also rejiged the pipe work, so the hot air blows out of the side vents, top of the heater box I drilled a lot of 1/4 holes this allows air into the heater without opening the flap
I keep the flap shut in the wet, dont want water getting down in the plenum, in the rain it works really well at demisting not for the faint hearted,
Pink
Wow that was a bit of an upgrade. I was hoping to get away with a squirt of WD40.
Unfortunately my current 6 is a later car, so no flap over the plenum.
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6 hours ago, ed_h said:
Motor could be seized.
Ed
Yes that was my thought. The flap also seem very stiff or even partially seized so there might be a bit of rust in there. Heater out job I think.
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A quick question guys before I start ripping the car to pieces... Heater fan does not seem to be working on my 6. To make matters worse when switched on it blows the fuse. There was also some smoke, which is not a good sign. Anyone had the same problem?
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1 hour ago, Harbottle said:
Hi Richard
Welcome back to the register. You don't need a modern car to go to the south of France, 4 of us 2xTR5 & 2xTR6 went to Monaco and surrounding area a couple of years ago. Many on the register have been further. Remember nowhere's far in a TR.
Paul
Thanks for the welcome Paul.
To be honest I wouldn't trust it to go shopping in at the moment. But that will change over the coming weeks.
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6 minutes ago, Crawfie said:
Be careful Nigel ......do you really want to bring a former partner back into your car's life ?
CBJ still may have feelings for Richard !!!!
I fitted a hidden mobile phone to CBJ just before I sold the car. We have been secretly texting each other for years
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21 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:
Hi Richard,
Welcome!
What to say? I was amazed and delighted to read your post. I happen to be the fortunate TRR member who owns CBJ 257H these days. I bought 'The Thug' as we call him in 2002, from a private seller in Portsmouth. I'm the 6th registered keeper (5 previous on the log book). It's great to hear about my car's past and your restoration, which held up well, though I needed to fit new front wings, sills and door skins in 2011. That's after plenty of miles and a couple of winters without a garage! The highlight of this period was a trip to Ireland and driving the Ring of Kerry.
CBJ has a slightly more sheltered life now though still gets a good leg-stretching when the weather is decent. He shares my workshop and car port with a 2.5 litre GT6, a Spit Mk3 project and Scimitar GTE. There's another TR6 in the fleet, of the two wheeled variety, a 1970 Trophy TR6R 650. Pure coincidence that when I was looking for a Triumph bike, I ended up with a 1970 TR6R! The photo below shows CBJ, driven by my partner Trudi, with me on the other TR6.
CBJ is sometimes to be seen in Practical Classics, where I'm a contributor, featuring in my Staff Car Saga and in the technical pages.
It would be great to meet up and get your old TR and latest acquisition together. There's so much I'd like to ask about CBJ's history, and much I could tell you about his last 18 years.
Let's talk soon. I'm also sending yo a PM but meanwhile, welcome back to TR6 ownership.
Nigel
I was at work one day and one of guys said "you had a TR6 didn't you?". "Yes" I said, why are you asking? So he showed me a magazine with some pictures of a white TR6. "Mine was a white" I said... "Bloody hell that is my TR..." And so began my present journey.
Really pleased to make contact with you Nigel. The car looks just as good as I remember. I will be in touch
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11 hours ago, Gordon Bayley said:
I also have an XK 150 a wonderful car but it may have to go with house move but the TR6 will defiantly stay
Hi Gordon, you just need to buy a house with a double garage. Simples
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3 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Richard,
the red tr6 (ATR 60K) was once owned by Dave Lewis who has posted above.
Could the chap at the end be a very young Mike Ellis (TR3 Registrar)
Roger
Hi Roger,
Yes it was because of Dave's post that I included that particular picture
I must have spent hours watching Dave and his wife (Maria?) polishing the car at various shows.
It might have been Mike Ellis with the TR3, the name is certainly familiar. But unfortunately I am rubbish at remembering names.
Richard
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22 hours ago, Mike 5 fan said:
Hello Richard and welcome. Like you I've recently returned to TR ownership, and like you, I've had an XKR (toured Scotland in it in 2018), sold it as I had to breathe in to get in the garage and when things went wrong, I required a computing degree to fix it. Since May, I've fixed almost everything on my TR (but at least I could do it myself), hope yours is less demanding.
Hi Mike, I agree with you regarding the XKR and small garages. My 70's house has an integral garage and the XK is a couple of inches too long (had to build it its own garage in the garden). Strangely enough the 1970's TR6 fits a treat.
I already have a list of jobs to do on the 6. I am starting with some much needed improvements to the electrical system. The original wiring was always a fire waiting to happen. I am going to add a secondary fuse box behind the dash. Complete with a set of nice modern blade fuses. I will then separate out the circuits so that if a fuse does blow it won't take out most of the electrical systems. Had that on Sunday when I collected the car. One of the fuses blew and took out all the usual suspects - overdrive, heater, indicators, fuel gauge, etc...
I think I am now facing years of interesting challenges. But looking forward to it.
Bleeding Brakes
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Phil,
The notch is normal.
I don't think there is a gasket because there should be nothing to seal. Your problem is that you have brake fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder. So it either needs replacing or refurbishing with a seal kit.
Richard