Richard Green 54
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Posts posted by Richard Green 54
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In the end that turned out to be a simple fix and was all down to me mixing up two green wires behind the dash. Feed to the heater fan switch swapped with the feed to the fuel gauge. My punishment was having to take the dash out again. Never mind it's all good practice and got me out in the sunshine for an hour or so.
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On my first TR6 I swapped the TR6 stickers for the flag ones. Not the most difficult modification to carry out.
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Well done!
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3 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:
On the whole no issue, but these cars are prone to breakdown and then you may be putting the poor recovery guy at risk.
Richard
You should try driving a Jaguar. Breakdowns are almost guaranteed.
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On 10/30/2019 at 10:22 PM, Z320 said:
Sounds not like heat problem?
I would tend to agree but... You have to take into account the amount of heat soak, ambient temperature, temperature of the fuel in the tank, amount of fuel in the tank, whether there is an 'R' in the month...
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Sounds like a standard case of fuel pump cavitation caused by pump overheating and/or poor fuel delivery from the tank to the pump. In my experience both the Bosch and original Lucas pumps howl when starved of fuel.
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At the moment the fuel sender works but just reads high. What I do know is that the supply voltage at the tank is wrong. So for the sake of £10 I am following Ed's advice and replacing the VS with something that works properly and is a bit more reliable. If that does not work I will probably end up bending the float arm on the sender unit. If that does not work I will invest in a wooden stick with some notches cut in it.
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4 hours ago, ed_h said:
A steady 11.8 volts at the sender suggests a bad stabilizer. I'd fix that first.
For a stock stabilizer, a voltage oscillating between 12 volts and 0 volts once or twice a second is normal.
For an aftermarket solid state stabilizer, the reading should be a steady 10 volts.
Ed
I agree Ed and have already ordered a solid state voltage stabiliser. That should fix the fuel gauge problem but I am a bit worried about the effect it will have on the temperature gauge. Although it could be that an over reading temp gauge is masking another problem such as a radiator thermostat jammed open. Guess I will find out in due course.
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Due to the lockdown I have managed to do less than 200 miles since buying my 1975 TR6 in January. But I have still managed to run out of fuel with the gauge showing 1/4 full. Fortunately I had a 5L can of fuel in the boot. When I reached the nearest garage and filled it up the needle was off the top of the gauge. So the same problem as in Nick's original post.
I checked the voltage at the sender and it was reading 11.8v. So I assume the voltage regulator is not working properly. However the temperature gauge, running off the same VR, seems to be reading perfectly, so I am a bit confused.
Anyone have any ideas as what might be wrong?
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1 hour ago, michaelfinnis said:
Hi Richard, I believe there should be studs both on the B pillar as per Steve's photo, and on the back panel. My cover has three straps that attach to the rear panel.As Cameron says, this creates some space under the folded hood.
Mike.
Thanks Mike. I am going to have to take a closer look tomorrow.
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Thanks guys. It looks like there were studs, or something, under the hinge bracket but now I just have two gaping holes in the panels. However I am not sure how they would work with the press studs I have on the cover. I will give Cameron's suggestion a try as that seems like good option.
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The TR6 I recently bought came with a hood cover, which I never had with my first 6 back in the 80's. There is a flap that hangs down behind the seats and at each lower corner there is a short elastic strap with a press stud. Can someone please enlighten me as to where the mating part it clips onto is supposed to be located.
Thanks,
Richard
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At the 2014 International Magnetics Conference in Dresden, Sony launched a magnetic tape cassette that could store 185TB of data.
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Restriction on movement primarily slows the speed of the virus. The positive being that it relieves pressure on the health services by flattening the peak. It also moves many countries into the warmer summer months. Which is good be because warm, humid weather is thought to make it harder for respiratory droplets to spread viruses.
The problem is that when the period of mass isolation comes to an end the vulnerable are still vulnerable. So the isolation plan only works if it is followed by a mass vaccination programme.
China is gradually freeing up the movement of its citizens, but is now importing Coronavirus. Today many new cases in China are coming from visitors to the country. To fix this problem the whole world would need to be in lockdown. That would be fun.
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Back in the 1950s, when I was born, parents put all the kids together when one had mumps, measles, whooping cough, etc. It wasn't called "herd immunity" back then. I think it was called common sense. The strategy was to get it over with and build up the immunity. This appears to be what the UK government are doing. It is a valid strategy and yes people will die. But they would anyway.
I also remember, back in the day, that you didn't panic buy toilet paper. Mainly because the IZAL stuff was bloody horrible. Most people saw it as a bonus when it ran out.
"We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give. Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever."
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5 minutes ago, matttnz said:
Yes it does. PM me w your email
Many thanks. Message sent
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Apologies for resurrecting this old topic.
I am looking for a CR series UK wiring diagram (1974/75) that shows the fuel pump and the inertia cut out. Does such a thing exist?
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Topaz? Is that a posh word for dark beige?
On a serious note I didn't know that Triumph offered the TR6 in Topaz. Every day you learn something new. It was however a reasonably common Jaguar XK8/R colour.
Best of luck with your search.
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As a new member to this forum I think this post needs to get back on topic.
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Fixing a leak on the exhaust manifold, painting the air intake manifold, resetting the tappets, topping up the brake and clutch fluid, changing the plugs, fitting a new USB socket and making two new console panels.
Or I might just sit in the garage and look lovingly at the car.
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3 hours ago, ed_h said:
DOT5 is normally purple. DOT3/4 are more yellow.
Ed
Thanks Ed. The fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir is certainly a light shade of purple. I have sort of convinced myself that the fluid in the clutch master cylinder is the same colour. But it is not so easy to see in my dark and dismal garage. I will take a little bit of fluid out tomorrow and have a closer look.
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1 hour ago, RobH said:
If you top-up make sure the new fluid really is Dot5 and not Dot5.1
Dot 5 is silicone based but Dot5.1 is glycol-based like Dot4.
Thanks Rob. Fortunately I had spotted that difference while I was 'Googling' the subject.
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Thank you Steve. That was just the sort of response I was looking for.
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Had my current 6 for about a month and am still getting to know the car.
The pipe to the brake master cylinder has a warning label hanging off it saying only fill with DOT 5 silicone fluid. The clutch master cylinder has no such label. So my dilemma is what do I top it up with?
My current plan is to extract a small amount of fluid from the clutch reservoir and mix it with some DOT 5 to see what happens. Does anyone have a better suggestion?
Richard
dashcam
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I am a big fan of dash cams and they have saved me hundreds of pounds over the years in potential insurance costs. So when I bought 'ROB' (Rusty, Oily and Brakeless) in January, fitting a dash cam was a priority.
I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LWN99YA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and also one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NV7579D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to plug it into. Took next to no time to fit.
Below is a video from the dashcam. The actual video quality is much better, but the YouTube upload has caused a significant loss of definition.