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Posts posted by DavidBee
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In fairness to Wayne,
I agree with his point about not getting articles forthcoming from members.
I was wondering if some of what members publish in their Newsletters migh go in? What do people think, ir am I getting it wrong?
Ciao,
David
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+3 did the head come off?
Ciao,
David
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On 11/27/2021 at 11:41 AM, stuart said:
TBH I wouldnt use anything other than what I recommended earlier in this thread, what anyone else uses is their choice.
Stuart.
Thanks, Stuart,
If I am not mistaken, either Racetorations or Revington recommended semi- for modified engines. Tighter tolerances was the reason, but I may be totally wrong, as I often am. If not wrong this time, I am left wondering, because of differing opinions. One thing is for sure, I'm no expert, so that makes things WORSE
Ciao,
David
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Humbling to witness such tenacity and consistent effort, Pete, fair play to you. Well written and so informative.
Ciao,
David
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Just now, Motorsport Mickey said:
I'm staying out of this, I'm far too radical.
Mick Richards
Mick, I know engine oil has a long history in this Forum, just asking. And besides, why are you "staying out of this"?
Ciao,
David
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8 hours ago, stuart said:
synthetic will leak on 4 cylinder engines so dont bother, I know people use it in 6cylinder though. Stuart.
Stuart, hi! Question for you: and what about semi-synthetic in 4-cylinder TRs?
Ciao,
David
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Hey guys,
Given that our Forum is open to all and sundry, to avoid receiving unwanted emails or calls, it is often suggest here to use the private message facility or PM. Suggest ye delete the email and phone contact details asap. I am only saying so because no ine else has done so.
Ciao,
David
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12 hours ago, mikej said:
Not used loom tape which sounds great but confirm through bitter experience not to use plastic insulation tape, it will unwind and slide about. Self-amalgamating "GPO" tape I used is just as bad if it gets close to any oil or petrol.
If you copy the old loom be aware that the wire strand sizes have since changed from Imperial to Metric and you need to look up the modern equivalent. I put a table in TR Action a while back but it got mangled during print layout, half of it appeared in a later edition! If you need a conversion table for Lucas standard cables (as used for all TRs) mail me and I will send it.
While you are about it then it's a great opportunity to add any new cables for modern toys and tidy up unused wiring post alternator conversion or to add additional fuses for rad fans etc.
If doing it again, I'd uncomplicate the two connection areas between the main and front harness. Perhaps replacing the Lucas connectors with a decent multi-way automotive plug & skt.
Mike
Dear Mike,
If you do send me the technical drawing I shall gladly include it in the growing technical archive, built on the expertise and creativity of people like you. If we have it available there, everyone can find it easily when they need it.
Kindest regards,
David
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On 10/25/2021 at 1:34 PM, sickly said:
To DavidBee: I can advice about setting mixture if you still need it.
Thank you very much indeed! Very kind. I managed to improve the tickover. I read up on the theory, got my head around how Webers work, but in the end decided to let the experts overhaul the Webers and retune with smaller chokes/venturis jets etc.
So I am waiting eagerly to get my TR3 back. I teach at Limerick LIT, and the first semester is always crazy. Front-loaded courses and scheduling. But now things are easing off, and I shall be driving all winter, that's for sure.
Ciao, and thanks again, Michael!
David
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On 10/17/2021 at 7:35 PM, Motorsport Mickey said:
Here's a description, it's quite well known, and where "trophy"cars are involved (because they often don't get used as they should) "mind my hair, no faster than 50mph" the cars don't get enough use in the areas where the piston rings bed in.
The standard TR camshaft does not develop full torque until 3500 revs...which your car never achieves, people change up and use overdrive. The engine needs full torque to be used and for that to coincide with a full "loading" (where the engine is working hard) condition of the engine. The piston rings need this loading to be forced out sidewards to allow them to gouge out their complimentary grooves (we are talking microns) in the walls of the liners. Excessive revs are not what helps the piston rings bed in, but driving the car at revs over 3500 in top gear (4th) with your foot hard down to the floor...continually, allowing the car to develop speed and increase the revs DOES.
This condition is well known and described as BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) Google it and you will find it described and how it works. Briefly the engine achieves it's most compression (which thrusts out the piston rings) on it's downward power stroke when the engine is loaded (working hard) and full throttle is continually applied. This is normally about the maximum torque area of your engine (3500 revs) where your engine mostly skirts apart from maybe an occasional foray but unlikely to be under full throttle in 4th.
You could ask a rolling road to load your cars engine and then in 4th at under 3000 revs apply full throttle and keep the throttle applied until the engine achieves maybe 4500 or 5000 revs even. Before power runs and with about 200 miles on the engine this is what we do on the race cars.This avoids any possible exceeding of road speed limits.
Alternatively I often (when bedding in race engines ) drive the car onto a motorway (car taxed and MOT tested). Then when you come upon a long uphill gradient (I have one within 3 miles of me) I change the car into 4th gear at about 2500 revs and floor the throttle and keep it buried as the car accelerates through the camshaft max torque are and when about 4500 revs are achieved (naturally making sure I do not exceed road speed limits). Because motorway gradients are long and of a consistent gradient when the revs are achieved, and then braking the car down in speed I can normally carry out this twice going uphill. Of course you must always keep an eye in the mirrors and also ahead to make sure your actions do not cause a danger to other road users. Then I come off at the next motorway junction and return back towards home going up the other side of the gradient and carry out the same procedure loading the engine and bedding the rings in. I normally invest maybe 1 hour carrying out the excercise. This is a lot more fun than stripping the engine and cheaper also ! Because this bedding in is carried out at a microscopic level it needs multiple applications, maybe a couple of times a week for about an hour over a month.
Interestingly my saloon road car tows my caravan and I can definately feel a difference after a 6 week caravan holiday towing covering maybe 2000 miles. The caravan loads the engine nicely and freshens up the bore conditions removing any glazing from the bores and beds the piston rings in.
Mick Richards
As I have probably mentioned before, I am far from an expert, but even I can understand this clear explanation you provide. With great, much appreciated, generosity, I would like to add. To me, the pattern of not going up to higher rpm sounds like TR Fear of Cankshaft Breakage.
Ciao,
David
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On 10/11/2021 at 10:08 AM, RogerH said:
There are no stupid questions.
Last week after 60 years an old childhood friend turned up in my front garden when I was out there working on the car.
I often cast my mind back playing with my friends.
Roger
That's a very nice reply. Very kind person. Delighted we are in the same club.
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Thanks for the engine oil tip, Bob.
Your expertise in action always a fascinating read,
Ciao,
David
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On 10/5/2021 at 4:48 PM, Hamish said:
Guildford Motor Club have a smaller membership but they adopted a simple online format
https://issuu.com/guildfordmotorclub/docs/in_tune_2110
Seems to work well
I agree, though I like getting my printed copy.
FANTASTIC story, by the way! Well done!!
Ciao,
David
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On 10/4/2021 at 10:04 AM, stuart said:
As its 4 years since he last visited its unlikely he will reply.
Stuart.
Yes. Sometimes my brain synapses misfire and I ask such stupid questions. Where can I hide
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Did you ever find out, David?
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On 9/12/2021 at 1:43 PM, RogerH said:
Yes, very strange landscape! And overpowering. The white lines which are often a nuisance but in this one they surely add to the photo.
Ciao,
David
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38 minutes ago, AndyR100 said:
The main feature of the 123 (to my mind) is the ability to easily and simply change the ignition curve (the only difference between the versions and their cost is how you change it and pre-sets) . If you don’t intend to use that functionality then I’d respectfully suggest a DD rebuilt item would be your best bet
....... Andy
Thanks for your advice, Andy!
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7 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
Yes, I have been looking at those and it is what I will buy next if I need to, but hoping an original pump will negate the need.
Ralph
If you need one, Ralph CHECK it has the threaded hole to fit a gauge.
Ciao,
David
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17 minutes ago, AndyR100 said:
From memory I think my tune+ was around £350
..... Andy
Thanks, Andy
It's a lot, but even a DD reconditioned unit will not be cheap.
I am thinking about replacing the TR4 distributor on my TR3 (which has an ancient Lumenition conversion fitted alongside it), I think it's a DM25, with a 1-2-3. But I think it would be beyond my skills to get one where you can change the settings at the flip of your laptop lid. I'd rather "fit and forget", knowing my technical limitations. Time was when I would adjust the points on my TR2 and check the cap for arcing and replace the ritor arm. That was as far as I went.
Ciao,
David
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On 6/24/2021 at 9:26 PM, AndyR100 said:
Good to see that someone else has had a positive experience with the 123tune +
Andy,
How much did you pay for the 123?
Ciao,
David
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Just saw your plight, Martin. What bad luck.
Glad the Forum has rallied round, yet again. We're so lucky.
I want to say thank you to everyone too.
Ciao,
David
Good Bye
in Social Scene
Posted
Dear Roger,
What can I add to all these good, no excellent, no, compelling reasons?
Nothing. I am just plain sad you will give in, when clearly all these people (and me) think very highly of you and have learned so much.
I don't want you to disappear. This Forum needs "Roger H".
Yours with best wishes, and sincerely hope you will be tenderized by all this support to be TOUGH and not give in.
Ciao,
David