Ocheye
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Posts posted by Ocheye
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On 1/12/2022 at 10:20 PM, Lebro said:
I would be looking at other possibilities of your missfire before changing the distributor. with the electronic (hall effect) pickup even a sloppy shaft would not make much difference to the timing, as opposed to points which are much more sensitive.
Check HT leads, look for bad or loose connections on the 12 Volt run from ignition switch to coil, check the earth connection inside the distributor etc.
Bob
Thanks Bob
I'll try and work through the list. It is an intermittent fault which is notoriously difficult to find and I could spend a lot of money replacing components unnecessarily. It is irritating as the engine running has given no problems since I bought the car which had been the subject of a full rebuild and had covered around 1000 miles only before I bought it, until recently!
I thought it was dirty petrol or some such but that doesn't seem to be the case. I will try a timing light as per Dave's suggestion. In some ways I prefer it when a component 'dies' and you can locate the source of the problem. Intermittent issues are a pain
Andy
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I have a Powerspark distributor and Accuspark coil fitted by the previous owner which have done about 7k. It has worked very well though recently my car started coughing and missing. Not 100% sure that it is dizzy related though seemed to improve briefly when I cleaned the rotor arm.
Talking to the Distributor Doctor, he suspects wear within the unit. I have bought a new rotor arm from him which I haven't tried due to self-isolation.
Unfortunately a replacement UK Lucas unit from him will be quite expensive as I do not have an original to part-ex. I would like to be sure that it is a dizzy issue before spending £200+ and a further £100+ if I go for a Pertronix set up.
Thoughts?
Andy
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I think it is 11/16" or approx 17mm. Sorry no caliper to hand so can't be 100% accurate
Andy
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I removed the front ARB that was fitted to my 62 TR4 and, wow, what a difference. I don't hit speed humps any more!
TBH I changed to a larger circumference tyre at the same time and also changed the geometry back to standard. I have no handling issues to report now and have felt no need to restore the front ARB.
I now have an ARB in my garage that I do not require if anyone is interested. It will need some work to the drop links (if that is the correct term) and probably new rubbers.
Andy
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I would be interested in swapping my flat glass later gauges for a domed earlier set in working order as my '62 TR4 at some time gained a set of later ones (perfect working order). I already have the aluminium panels in situ
Cheers
Andy
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On 5/15/2021 at 9:44 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Have you followed this thread?
Side-screen chassis is very like TR4 at the rear.Thanks for that. It is an interesting thread. The article in TRA is also very informative.
My main concern is avoiding butchering my rear bumper.
I am not likely to be towing anything heavier than a trailer tent and probably not abroad so a removable tow ball is not likely to be an issue
Andy
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Hi
I'm toying with the idea of fitting a towbar to my TR4 and am looking for a suitable bar. I have seen one for a TR6 in the classifieds but don't know whether or not it will fit a TR4. I certainly don't want to drill holes in the rear bumper and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction
Andy
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If you fitted a bump stop would this not prevent the hood frame from collapsing properly and fitting behind the padded leather(ette) covers? Do you have a pic illustrating the point?
Cheers
Andy
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Does anyone know whether it is possible to buy a passenger side carpet in black for a TR4?
Either the PO's passenger was a smoker or used an angle grinder but there are small burn holes around the seat runners. I suspect they cut off a bit of steel bar when fitting MX5 seats. It now has TR4A seats and the marks are a bit of an eyesore. Unfortunately I don't know the make of the carpet set to get a perfect match (black).
Anyone interested in a pair of MX5 seats (Charcoal cloth) with detachable headrests?
Andy
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Decided to blow away the cobwebs and took a short run of about 35 miles in the TR4 following an oil change. Went like a dream
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1 hour ago, RobH said:
Only if there is a possibility of the filter getting blocked. I guess you change it often enough for that not to happen !
True
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35 minutes ago, Lebro said:
I thought there was a bypass valve in the filter head, or have I got that wrong ?
as for an anti drain valve, not required as the filter is more or less the right way up anyway.
Bob.
I think you are right about the bypass valve
Andy
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12 minutes ago, RobH said:
the OC154 has been replaced by the OC 264 which has no anti-drain valve but does have a bypass valve. Being a longer body there is more filter area than the OC21.
Is it desirable to have a bypass valve, Rob?
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My TR4 has a spin off conversion with a Mahle OC21 filter. This has been on since the rebuild by the previous owner. As far as i can tell I have no issues but when I checked an older thread (2009) there is mention of a Mahle OC 47 (discontinued) and a Mahle OC154 (replacement). I have no idea which of the 3 (if any) is correct and am loathe to change makes.
Any thoughts?
Andy
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On 1/24/2021 at 3:58 PM, AndyR100 said:
I use hardboard to blank off half the rad in Winter - cable-tied into place until March usually
...... Andy
Thanks
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I thoroughly enjoyed reading your "adventures", Roger. Hardboard seems to be the way to go
Andy
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On 1/20/2021 at 5:00 PM, Tony_C said:
Hi Andy,
Just a thought... based on what you have is actually an ‘luxury problem’ (in that overheating in the summer is the real concern that can lead to serious damage and expense).
You are fine in hot weather driving, why not simply do What all our practical Dad’s and Grandpas(?) did back in the day....... and Simply place the ‘correct’ sized piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to restrict the cold air passing in winter?
However tough up North you are bet the majority of your TR driving is done in the summer months.... I doubt you even need to be pulling the (efficiently working cooling) system apart!.......... Only my tuppence worth and meant in the best possible way
Cheers
Tony
Hi Tony
For some reason your post didn't appear before my last posting. Just in case you thought I was being a bit stupid. In fact, yours', Peters' and Andy303s' didn't appear until now.
Cardboard is what I'm going to do - and well within a pensioner's budget!
Andy
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Thanks to all for your input. Initially, I am going to check engine temperatures with my i/r thermometer and take appropriate action. Perhaps all I need to do is blank of part of the radiator 'old school' style until the spring.
Andy
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I have seen several NOS bellows type thermostats for sale. They are marked TF4.
Is this the correct one for a TR4 or is the google/eBay search misreadiing my TR4 reference?
Maybe it is just coincidental that it has a similar designation.
Hope that makes sense to someone
Andy
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14 hours ago, Lebro said:
I use an 88 degree shielded bellows type all year round with no problems.
Bob
Surrey is sub-tropical!
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3 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:
You may have a faulty/incorrect temerature sender, giving a falsely low reading.
before foing to the trouble and expense of a new thermostat perhaps check the actual engine temp ?
steve
That may be the case but it is a significantly lower reading in the cold weather
Andy
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I've now had my TR4 for about 15 months and have never experienced any overheating issues even though I have been stuck in stationary traffic in hot weather. It has a mechanical fan only. It always seems to hover on the line just below the 70 mark. However, in this cold weather it isn't rising much above the 30 (maybe up to 40) though the heater is functioning (though I can't say it is toasty warm in there).
I haven't checked the thermostat (perhaps there isn't one) and I don't want to go down the road of switching between winter and summer ones as there isn't always a lot of difference up here in Cumbria.
I would like advice on the best all round choice of thermostat for north of England conditions
Thoughts anyone?
BTW. The bellows type that are a tad under £100 are just way too dear
Andy
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On 1/15/2021 at 10:54 AM, Ocheye said:
It was MOT time for my daily driver today and because of Covid I'm leaving it over the weekend so we drove to the testing station about 4 miles away with the TR4 and the daily driver. It was very icy and we slithered around on our feet when we reached the testing station. However the TR4 was sure footed and I was able to stay in a higher gear than normal preventing wheel spin. My daily driver (Alfa 159) is much twitchier however requiring more use of the lower gears. I also had to run it for 20 mins to thaw it out but the TR had been tucked up inside so no problem there. Such a pleasure to be out in the TR again.
Almost a disappointment that my Alfa passed its' MOT test with no problems so the TR4 is tucked up in bed again. As we've no legitimate excuse to be out and about during lockdown it will have to stay there until our weekly 'click and collect' from Asda. Can't wait!
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It was MOT time for my daily driver today and because of Covid I'm leaving it over the weekend so we drove to the testing station about 4 miles away with the TR4 and the daily driver. It was very icy and we slithered around on our feet when we reached the testing station. However the TR4 was sure footed and I was able to stay in a higher gear than normal preventing wheel spin. My daily driver (Alfa 159) is much twitchier however requiring more use of the lower gears. I also had to run it for 20 mins to thaw it out but the TR had been tucked up inside so no problem there. Such a pleasure to be out in the TR again.
Drew Pritchard TR4 for sale
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Though I'm not a great fan of chrome wires, I honestly believe the car looked so much better with wires and no vents. The dunlop style wheels with triple-eared spinners don't imho enhance a road-going TR's appearance particularly in black.
I made some awful errors in my youth such as respraying my mark 1 Sprite in Bronze yellow with matt black sills and adding rocker switches to the dashboard to make it look more modern!
Each to their own. It can always be undone
Andy