Ocheye
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Posts posted by Ocheye
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Interesting response from Powerspark when I placed an order for a new coil. They feel that the issue is unlikely to be heat related as this should reveal itself relatively soon, not after 70 odd miles. They say the original coil will not have caused any damage to the ignition module but the replacement will give a more powerful spark. I will keep the Accuspark as a spare. The good news is that the ignition module doesn't need replacing. The bad news is that it may not resolve the issue. If not, I will have to look at the carbs again. The joys of intermittent problems.
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Thanks John but I have ordered a new coil as mine is definitely the wrong one.
Andy
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The two that I mentioned are not suitable for use with a ballast resistor. The Viper VCE was designed for Powerspark high energy ignition kits and distributors so seems the obvious choice though a little dearer than the Lucas
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5 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Those 1st two should read 8.0 ohm not 0.8. A 0.8 ohm coil would destroy the unit instantly !
The 3 ohm one could well have damaged the accuspark electronics
Bob
Thanks Bob
I've just asked the guy at Powerspark if it is likely to have caused damage to his module and am awaiting his response. However the car runs very well until the intermittent issue returns (probably due to heat after about 60 miles (I don't drive hard these days) so maybe I'll get lucky. Funny that both coils on the website are stated as 0.8 ohm
Andy
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Hi all
Have been doing some detective work and according to Powerspark my distributor (Powerspark electronic) should be matched to an appropriate coil such as a Lucas DLB198 (0.8 ohm) or a Viper dry coil (0.8 ohm). What I have is an Accuspark (3 ohm) red sports coil. This could well be the source of the intermittent nature of the misfire.
Andy
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7 hours ago, trchris said:
Hi
It could be a multitude of things plugs, leads, distributor cap, electronic trigger in the distributor, coil (it may be fuel but I would expect some more symptoms) I think its a case of substituting components starting with the cheapest first my bet would be coil
Chris
I'm inclined to go tor a coil first. If it isn't that at least I'll have a spare
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7 hours ago, rcreweread said:
Have you checked for debris in the fuel tank? This could either something really simple like the foil seal off a fuel additive bottle which floats around in the petrol till it goes past the fuel outlet and gets sucked onto it causing a partial blockage - when the pump stops ,the vacuum is released and the seal moves off.
It could also happen with flaking from inside the tank collecting around the outlet during a reasonable length journey - largish flakes can do this without a lot of fine particle evidence in your filters - is it an original tank?
It doesn’t sound like your fuel pump because I don’t think it would show up as an intermittent problem if it was defective
cheers Rich
thanks Rich. I don't know if there are any flaking issue. The fuel flows freely, particularly when leaking at the overflow. Can't rule it out though.
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5 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
Sounds to me like heat build up is causing something to break down. This can happen with coils, and maybe when you cleaned the rotor arm it made an easier path for the spark and took some load off the coil, or simply gave the coil chance to cool down a bit, likewise when you put in a new rotor arm. Coils are not too expensive and even if it does not cure it you can then carry a spare (I do).
Likewise spark plugs can break down if they get too hot because the mixture is too weak, this tends to happen after a longish run at a steady speed. Stop start and around town gives the plug chance to cool down.
Being bolted to the engine is not the best place for a coil in the first place, and are better located on the inner wing, less vibration and heat.
Good luck
Ralph
Is there any way the coil can be tested for a fault or will it only happen after a while? The weather is pretty cool up North so it shouldn't have overheated
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Thanks Dave. The sparkplugs seem fine though I haven't checked them this time. I know that if I start it up today it will be fine. That's the problem with intermittent faults
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Just prior to our honeymoon we did a run with the Cumbria Group up to St Mary's Loch. On the way home the TR4 (rebuilt to 4A spec engine) started to misfire and needed a bit of revving to ensure we got home. It had run faultlessly in my ownership until then. I tested it before our honeymoon and it was running well. A few days faultless running was rudely interrupted by the return of the misfire. I cleaned up the rotor arm and it seemed better but returned on our journey home. It's a horrible feeling when you don't think you're going to make it back.
In the meantime, I bought a DD rotor arm to eliminate that and I changed all my carb hoses with ethanol resistant ones. Before anyone asks, there is an in-line filter which looks clear! I then had a leak from the rear HS6 SU float chamber. I tried swapping out some used bits Float, needle valve, lid etc. In the end I replaced the needle valve with a new Viton tipped one and set off into the Lakes last Friday. After about 75 miles perfect running (with a 3 hour break in the middle), just as I was congratulating myself, the misfire returned and the old fear about not making it home returned.
I have a Powerspark distributor and Accuspark coil fitted by the previous owner which have done about 7.5k. I know that these are not the best but quality ones are very expensive if that proves not to be the issue. The cap seems OK and likewise the leads. I will check the float chamber cap again for rubber blockages (from the original tube between the filter and the cap though I thought it was nice and clear.
Next weekend we are doing a Lakes trip with the club and I don't want to struggle on "the Struggle" (KIrkstone Pass). It is not the sort of place you want it to cut out.
Does anyone have specific thoughts or do I just have to replace components one by one?
Andy
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I have a similar issue and assumed it was wheel balance. In desperation I bought a set of balancing cones from Smoothride (He makes them and supplies to other firms). This has improved driving comfort and the balance was a mile out when tested.
However I still have a vibration/noise at 60 mph plus (I haven't had the opportunity to try and drive through it yet but I suspect there is something else not quite right.
Due to have the car on the ramps at John Morrison's shortly so we will have a chance of inspecting the propshaft visually then. As my car has a J type o/d it doesn't have a balance weight and don't know if this is the cause. I'd hate to do any damage to the gearbox.
Andy
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Not wishing to hijack the thread, I'm looking to find a kit for re-covering the grab handle, or a replacement. I only seem to find lhd ones
Andy
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On 1/27/2022 at 9:56 AM, stuart said:
The chassis bracket is OK but its the rest of it thats wrong, you can see it better in below picture. Yes the forward mount 30-39 is a better option though its a bit of a fiddle to get in the right place. It bolts to one of the gearbox mount screws.
Stuart.
Thanks that's very helpful
Andy
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On 1/24/2022 at 1:29 PM, stuart said:
This shows what you should have https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/exhaust/exhaust-systems/exhaust-system-tr2-4-1953-65.html
Obviously the front one is completely different and the rear one should have the strap straight and right angle brackets to allow it to sit like that.
Stuart.
I'm still a tad confused. I have a copy of the Moss catalogue.
Re. the mount between the silencers, is the bracket that comes off the chassis correct and if so do I need to install parts 40-50?
Re. the forward mount. Will parts 33/39 fit my gearbox and/or overdrive?
Andy
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Just now, stuart said:
All of those mounts are non standard so Im afraid all bets are off and your just going to have to go through it all front to back and adjust as required to get rid of any rattles.
Stuart.
The gearbox one was something we did recently. That was the one that had vibrated loose!. The rear one was on the car when I bought it
Andy
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Managed to have a look underneath this morning. One of the nuts had worked loose which, when tightened, has improved things although we felt that a bobbin attached via abrackt to the lower part of the chassis would prevent it dropping down again. I took a few pics for information.
At some stage I need to check my oil leaks on the gearbox and overdrive and either replace or lose the speedo angle drive (if it isn't necessary - it may be a throwback to the saloon it came from). This will be an opportunity to sort out the exhaust mountings once and for all and replace the gearbox rear mounting rubbers at the same time.
Andy
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6 hours ago, stuart said:
As its a TR4 not a 4a all the above answers dont apply, do you have the rear mount fitted behind the rear box? Item No 45 to 50 here. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/exhaust/exhaust-systems/exhaust-system-tr2-4-1953-65.html
See below just behind the main box
Stuart.
I'll have to check over the weekend as I can't remember exactly what is where. I'll have to see if I can borrow John Morrison's lift! Certainly looks similar in the way it passes through the centre of the cruciform at an angle. This is where the rattling occurs.
Andy
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11 hours ago, Malbaby said:
There must be a correct repair available to the pipe. Perhaps an additional mount or alterations to the existing.
I would take the car back to the exhaust shop for further investigation.
The problem is that they didn't make it and I think I may have used up my quota of goodwill
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8 hours ago, ctc77965o said:
how are your engine mounts? if the engine moves around the exhaust is gonna follow.
Pretty good.
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2 minutes ago, Chris Hubball said:
I had the same problem wrapped mine in a piece of old asbestos fire blanket years ago would not please the health and safety brigade today but still does the job.
Cheers Chris
Might be the best solution
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2 minutes ago, stillp said:
Is the mount to the gearbox in good nick? I had to change mine, and also lower the back of the exhaust to raise the part where it passes through the chassis.
Pete
Yes, but not sure if it is a proprietory part as the gearbox and overdrive are not standard (though they work perfectly well). The rear mount was modified by the local exhaust 'expert' to make a better fit. As I said, it seems fine for a while but speed bumps, potholes and generally dodgy road surface mean that the problem returns. A sleeve that would fit between the pipe and the chassis would appear to be the best 'silencing bodge' I can think of.
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1 minute ago, stillp said:
What exhaust system do you have?
Pete
It is a single pipe system. May have been custom made (stainless). Unfortunately no reference in my box of receipts from the po.
Andy
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Ever since acquiring my TR4 I've had problems with my exhaust rattling where it passes through the chassis frame. It has been looked at by our local stainless exhaust builder on at least 3 occasions and we have also tried to fix it when up on the lift at a club member's garage. Each time we think we've solved it but it returns.
The problem may be partly due to the fact that I have a J type overdrive on a saloon gearbox. When I first got it the previous owner had some 'asbestos' rope around it to stop it chattering and this was probably the most effective solution. An asbestos 'sleeve' would probably work best if such a thing exists (on the lines of foam insulation for water pipes)
It is a very irritating problem.
Ideas anyone?
Andy
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I bought my bulbs and lucas headlamp shells from Classic Car LEDs. One of the shells was damaged in transit and they replaced it instantly without question. IMHO they are a great company to do business with and always helpful with advice by phone
Andy
Intermittent misfire
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
will do