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    73 TR6, 68 TR6P, 71 Norton Commando

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  1. I have a similar issue; the 73 TR6 starts and runs really well but after stopping (when the engine is hot) the idea goes all to hell, almost stalling out on the re-start. Any suggestions??? BC
  2. After contacting Peninsula Auto re: the wrong part, they quickly sent out the correct hose. All four flexible brake hoses have now been replace. Note to all; this was a 1973 TR6 with the original brake lines. The inside diameter of the hose had collapsed and I suspect this is deterioration over time, and may well be occurring on similar and older vintages. If your wheels aren't spinning freely after hard braking, this may be a good spot to consider. Thanks to all whom contributed. Problem solved.
  3. I don't suppose you have a close up of the 3 way block for the rear left flexi-line brake hose? The parts supplier has given me two identical hoses but the left side is supposed to have a raised cylinder boss. I'm wondering if I can jury rig it with washers or does it fit inside the three-way. BC
  4. So I got behind the rear wheels to take a look at both L & R flex hoses currently on the car and they appear to be the same length (8"). Further, the threads on the fittings on all 4 ends are all the same (3/8 UNF?). Same length, same thread and to my eye, interchangeable. As such, I'm still puzzled as to why they are different part numbers. BC
  5. The hoses on the car look identical too (rear: right and left). But if I was to order them individually, I would need two different parts numbers.
  6. I bought three new flexible brake hoses to replace the front and back flex lines in the TR6 (front drive side had already been done). Parts guy at Peninsula Auto (Toronto) says the right and left rear ones are different. I didn't realize this. On installing front right hose, the one he had sold me (at an extortion rate for an 'made - in - India' knockoff) didn't fit. The purchased hose was 8" long with the two 1" fittings no the end; total length 10". The length required for the front end is 12" total length. Perhaps he's mislabeled them, thinks I. Sure enough, one of the hose
  7. stillreel

    Classical Dash

    This is how mine looks following re-finish.
  8. I'm thinking it's the engine indicator light or amp meter wire. With the 'new volt meter" using an alternative connection, it may have been what was giving the reading previously.
  9. A few weeks ago, I posted an issue here that had me rather baffled. The front driver side would tended to dive in on braking and the wheel on the opposite side would not spin free following hard braking (observed while on the hoist). I had many helpful suggestions; brake pad differences, calliper seized, flexible brake tube 'ballooning' and then there was the possibly it was a suspension bushing issue rather than the brakes. Remarkably (or not) it was two issues; the flexible tubes were indeed bunged up and not releasing the pressure on the brake pads. The tubes were acting as a check
  10. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264381002665 https://www.ebay.com/itm/264381003647
  11. I replaced the upper wishbone bushings last year and just had a look at them. They have deteriorated and are falling apart at the upper wishbone arm. Most likely part of the problem. Warning to all: don't buy el-cheapo eBay components. You get what you pay for.
  12. Yes, did that too. Had all four wheels up on blocks and tested the brakes; good all around. When released, all wheels spin freely except for front right which was binding. Took out pads, inspected disk (clean & clear) and replaced; issue persists. Removed calliper, popped pistons out, cleaned and cleared all channels, re-installed, bleed the brakes then test drive. While the pistons were out, I removed the seal and checked for clearance between calliper an and piston and it seems ok (moves freely). Subsequent test drive reveals same pulling to left, though not as severe. Back ho
  13. Both disks look are clean and rust free. But the pads a definitely harder to remove on the right (binding) side. I took the caliper off and gave it a good clean. All channels are clear and the pistons will move freely in the caliper with the seal removed; that is clearance appears okay. To add another element, I replaced internal component of the valve assembly last year with no evident issues. This new braking issue has surfaced this spring. I feel this is a solvable problem and really don't want to take it to a shop for repair.
  14. I can move the piston(s) but only with a fair bit of pressure on the end of a bar.
  15. Thanks Rob; I've already done that. I'm not sure how much pressure must be applied to push the pistons back. Should I be able to do this with finger pressure? If so, this is not the case.
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