[Steering column lower tie rod shape]

Thanks Openroad. Those were my initial thoughts too but when I looked at the British Leyland TR6 catalogue (my edition was published in May 1973) the picture of the tie rod looks like mine (see picture: plate number 23, part number 611531 which matches the part number in the moss catalogue). Also it is shown as the other way around from what I thought, and I cannot see where it could be attached. Anybody else have knowledge of what it should look like, or could look at their own car to see the set-up?

Best wishes

Richard

ps my car was built in 1970, CP 52462

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[Steering column lower tie rod shape]

I’ve just looked at the parts catalogue picture, which looks like my tie rod. So perhaps the question should be: between which 2 points does it fit?

Richard

[Steering column lower tie rod shape]

Could someone please tell me what the correct shape should be for the end of the lower tie rod (part number 611531 in the Moss catalogue that goes between the column brackets) where it attaches to the rear of the dash? Attached is a picture of my tie rod, which was kindly given to me by Craig from TR Bitz as I did not have one before. I suspect it should be 90 degrees, which would match the drawing in the Moss catalogue, but it does not look like it has been previously bent making me wonder whether it is actually the correct shape. I don’t want to bend it unnecessarily, but at the moment it is “too long” to fit between the brackets.

many thanks

Richard

ps the end I’m talking about is at the top of the picture.

 

[Signal red/white soft pictures]

Thanks everyone for these additional responses. The rarity of this combination of colours is hard to resist so I think I will go in this direction. At least if you see a signal red car with a white soft top, on the days when it is raining so hard that I haven’t folded it down (I have never seen the point of owning a soft top car if one doesn’t fold it down whenever one can), you will know who it is!

Richard

[Signal red/white soft pictures]

I’m always amazed at how quickly one gets replies on this forum! Thanks very much to everyone so far. 
In reply to Bruce: an email from a previous owner of my car indicates that it originally had a white soft top but somewhere along the line, perhaps when it had a very poorly done make-over, it was changed to a black vinyl soft-top.

Best wishes 

Richard

[Signal red/white soft pictures]

Does anybody have pictures of their signal red car with a white soft top that they would be willing to share with me? I have recently received my heritage certificate and my car was made in 1970 with this combination, but when I bought the car in 1983 it had a black soft top.  I have looked on line but all the images of signal red cars have a black soft top. On discussion with Derek, our ever helpful registrar, it seems that the signal red/white soft top combination was very rare with only ~1% being made. I am close to finishing a complete rebuild of my car and need to make a decision on which colour soft top to go for.

Many thanks in anticipation

Richard

[Wiper Rack Tubing]

Thanks for these replies. 
Richard

[Wiper Rack Tubing]

I’m about to undertake renewing the wiper rack tubing and read this thread with interest. My car is 1971 with a vent lid and control rod. With regard to the middle section, between the 2 wheel boxes, my original tubing has a S shape and not just a bend at one end to clear the vent lid control rod, which puts the wheel boxes out of line. See pictures. From the previous descriptions this does not seem right, and I cannot see how the tube would have been further bent when it was dismantled. Can someone tell me if my middle section is how it should look? Any tips on making the job easier would also be much appreciated.

Best wishes

Richard

[Wiring Loom routing photos- 1972 PI]

Would someone be kind enough to share their pictures with me as I am at the same stage with my rebuild?

many thanks

Richard

[Door tie bar]

Thanks Stuart

[Door tie bar]

During my rebuild I also have noticed missing tie rods and this thread is very helpful. Looking at the parts catalogue there appears to be a bend in the middle of tie rod. Is this necessary and does it help hold the rod in place due to a bit of induced tension when fitted? Also the Moss catalogue quotes different part numbers for each side. I cannot see why but is there a difference between the left and right doors?

kind regards

Richard

[TR6 steering wheel restoration]

Thank you everyone for your comments. I have been in contact with Niphos Metal Finishing in Crewe (recommended by Craig from TR Bitz) and they can re-chrome in satin chrome, so I think I will go down that route.

I would like to express my appreciation of the TR Forum, and people like you who make it, as a fabulous resource for a rebuild, and I hope my 6 will be complete in the next few months once this lockdown eases further.

Richard

[TR6 steering wheel restoration]

Thanks to both Bruce and Derek for these speedy responses. I’ll see what the rechroming company says and if it is not possible then Derek’s solution may be the way (and cheaper) to go.

Richard

[TR6 steering wheel restoration]

I have a metal 3 spoked TR6 steering wheel that I would like to restore. Previously I saw a thread on the forum from someone who had carefully removed the rubber grip (but now I cannot find it), which would allow rechroming but the colour does not look as though it is chrome. Does anybody know what the metal finish was for these steering wheels? 

[TR6 door handles]

Thanks Stuart. Something else to add to my shopping list! Makes one’s mind wonder why they were changed.

[TR6 door handles]

During the course of my 1971 TR6 rebuild I have noticed that the door handles look like those from a TR4, according to Bill Piggott’s lovely book Original Triumph TR page 163. Do I conclude that my handles been changed at some point In its earlier life (I’ve owned my 6 since 1983) or did Triumph sometimes use TR4 handles if they were short of parts? Many thanks for your replies 

Richard

 

[TR6 Pi Fuel Pipe Routing]

Thanks very much for both of these replies. My return pipe seems way too long but I’ll check it anyway.

[TR6 Pi Fuel Pipe Routing]

I am also rebuilding my 6 from bare chassis. Both the workshop manual and Moss catalogue (part number 148945, page 69) show a connecting hose a short way back from the metering unit, where the 3 pipes run alongside the chassis, towards the rear of the car. My replacement fuel pipe kit has a continuous length of copper pipe for the return fuel pipe only. Is this connecting hose necessary, as I cannot think of any reason for it apart from potentially being a source of fuel leakage? I don’t see this connector on the nice pictures of John’s chassis.

looking forward to your responses

kind regards

Richard

 

[RichardB]

Thank you so much. Absolutely correct, as I’ve re-read the instructions that came with the superpro kit. 

In fact this is what in did first time, then I started to doubt myself! 

[RichardB]

I am rebuilding the front suspension and there appears to be discrepancies with the order of the washers, sealing rings etc on the trunnion to lower wishbone bolt. A YouTube clip says (from wishbone outwards) water shield, bush, rubber sealing ring, thrust washer. This also appears to be the case with the workshop manual. When I try this the rubber sealing ring won’t stay in place when I fit the bolt as there is nothing to hold it in place (I am using suprapro polybushes which may be wider than the originals). However, the original parts catalogue and the moss parts catalogue show water shield, rubber sealing ring, bush, thrust washer. This works for me. Which is correct and does it matter?