Matt1969
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Posts posted by Matt1969
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I currently have a TR6 fuel injection from aroun 1972. Thinking about trading it in for a working Jag E Type. I am OK on the TR6 re gearbox/clutch changes and servicing etc. Anyone ever owned an E Type? Just wondered how much harder it is? Assume quite a lot more expensive to run?
Thanks! Matt
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Yesterday when I was driving it was losing power at mid-higher revs and it struggled to start once or twice. Deffo felt like a fue problem, but who knows......
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Hi
Got a couple of bursts of revs unexpectedly last week, and this week I am now getting fuel starvation (no racing). Have the gods of TR6 stuff got any thoughts on this before I start my ham handed investigations?
Matt
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Hi All, thanks for all your input, which has been invaluable. I moved the pin into the middle hole, replaced the clutch fuild (which looked like black gloop) and bled it through. Hey presto! It looks like its working. Please send invoices to the usual address! Thanks, again. matt
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20 hours ago, Waldi said:
Hi Matt,
I would check the clutch lever movement first.
The rod of the slave cylinder should be in the middle hole of the lever, and have at least 16 mm horizontal travel. It needs a 2nd person to measure this. A failed tapered pin in the fork could contribute to the issue as well.
My gear box was stiff after reconditioning too, but once warm (20 miles or so) it got better. Now, after a couple of thousand miles, it’s ok cold and warm.
Waldi
HI waldi
Well the pin was in the bottom hole not the middle hole, so that is one problem solved.
The second issue is the movement. Its only moving 13mm. How do you increase this?
Thanks! Matt
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46 minutes ago, Hamish said:
Try slackening the adjusters in the top cover.
1/4 to 1/2 turn should let you know if it’s the issue.
Will add it to the list! Thanks.
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1 hour ago, Andy Moltu said:
Too thick oil?
If it is ok when warmed up then a clutch issue is unlikely. Try 80/90 multi grade gear oil.
It is more of a problem when its warmed up.
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2 hours ago, John L said:
Did your refit the dowel bolts in the right places in the gearbox to engine flange, lots of info on here for the positions.
Can you tell us a bit more please. without the engine running and without dipping the clutch, how easy is it to select gears? Is it still tight or is it easy now?
You might have the 2 bolts that hold the gear lever from rotating may be just too tight, also it may be the rubber that goes around the tunnel to seal the gear lever housing there are 2 ways it can be fitted, try and remove it completely and try the gear selection.
John
I will try this and let you know.
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Thanks Waldi
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Hi All
Around 2 years ago, I took out the gearbox and had it reconditioned by Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffield. I didnt replace the clutch as there was about 20% life left in it. Immediately the car came back and it was hard to get into 1st and quite hard to get into 2nd. It was much worse once the car had been driving for around 30 mins and had properly warmed up. In the worst instances it would not go into any of the forward gears, but usually would go into reverese. This is despite trying double de-clutching etc.. It would go in if you carefull adjusted car speed to gear box speed as you slowed down.
So, I thought, it sounds like a clutch problem. This year, I replaced the clutch, with the usual trials. Absolutely no change.
I have rung ORS and they are willing to look at the box again, but suggest it is more likely a clutch problem.
Before I take the gearbox out again, does anyone have any bright ideas?
Thanks.
Matt
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Ok, v excited to get into a new area of mechanics for me. Took the difficult caliper off and removed the stiff piston with a pair of heavy screwdrivers. The pistons look immaculate, but the cylinders are slightly corroded above the seal. Could clean off with vigorous wire wool?
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Ok, thanks, do you mean both sides of one caliper?
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Hi, just managed to replace three brake pads without too much trouble after levering the pistons back. The last one though, the piston just won't shift. It's solid. Any ideas? Posted in general chat by mistake.
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Hi, I am just changing the brake pads. Got three in without too much trouble, levering the brake pistons back. Last one though is solid. Any thoughts? Is this normal?
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Great, that's really helpful, thanks.
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Hi there. Just doing my front brake pads. One side needs doing, but assume you need to do both? How do I identify which pads to order from Rimmers? Cheers, matt.
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Thanks for your kind words! Ps, it wasn't the fuel pumop, must have been confused in the stress, it was a blocked oil filter....
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Hi, sadly my father passed away recently, and to remind myself of him, I made this short video of our trip to Osnabruck. Thought you might enjoy it! Matt
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Thanks Waldi, that is very useful. I couldnt find the flow rates anywhere. So you think I need a Bosch 0580 464 126? Theyt seem to be around £ 70 online.
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It makes a noise, full or empty. Seems to be worse in hot weather and if I take out all the stuff from the boot, its better, assume as it's cooler.
Waldi - The pump is a Bosch 0 580 254 941 Next line 12V (illegible) 520-25
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I have found the invoice from the garage and it is states it is a bosch 5 bar pump
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There are no markings on the pump. I have these photos of it helps....
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Sorry to hear no banging for 30 years..... Will get a picture.
Jaguar E Type Series 3
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Not sure I can fit in a S2, as I'm 6'2“!