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  1. https://geg.co/product/eurotek-fhs3-scissor-lift/?v=79cba1185463 Eurotek FHS3
  2. The platforms in the scissor lift in my post could be put whatever distance apart you like. You would h ave to get a local hydraulic place to remake a couple of hoses if you went too extreme
  3. https://geg.co/product/eurotek-fhs3-scissor-lift/?v=79cba1185463 But I paid a lot less than that. About 2 years ago at least but I paid less than 2k including delivery (to the road).
  4. I'd much rather do sills on a scissor than a 2 poster and definitely want to be standing up when I do them! When I do them I put tall axle stands or wood blocks on the scissor platform so it's essentially the same as having the car on the floor and on stands but at a height I can stand up. I have also used a 2 poster, to lift the car and then put a heavy duty work bench under each of the 4 wheels so it's pretty much the same as your link but much higher. You need a lot of space for that though! I made my workshop floor so the scissor would go flush which makes other jobs easier
  5. My workshop is same width as a 1.5x domestic garage but longer and higher. I use a full height scissor lift which is recessed in the floor so leaves a completely flat floor when not using it. 2 or 4 posters require a lot of width for posts. Lifts are designed for different purposes, 2 posts are great, very quick to get a car on and wheels in the air, they leave the wheel area completely free but are very difficult to work on sills, 4 posters are great for wheel alignment but the platforms are often in the way for brakes, suspension work Scissor lifts are a nice compromise. I've rest
  6. Don't over think it. You're getting better results as each hour of practice passes - not because you're bunching rods together! In another 10 hours you won't really care too much about the filler rod or electrode. That's not your problem. If the electrode is clean and you've ground a bit of a point on it then it will be ok to learn with. I grind mine to a point and then just flatten the tip a tiny bit. I've often just grabbed a very sharp point electrode out of my box (prepped for DC) and used that on aluminium and works just fine. Adrian is technically correct but when learning you're go
  7. That's loads, for what you are doing at the moment 3 seconds would be fine.
  8. You will get through lots of gas when you're learning. Most of it is being lost with post-flow as you will be stop-start all the time and it's post-flowing everytime you stop. Obviously you won't be constantly stop/starting when you are actually reasonable at TIG welding but you do when learning. I would reduce the post-flow duration to save a bit of gas. Whatever your problems are it isn't post-flow. I'd say you are correct with your diagnosis, just practice.
  9. 3mm I would have base at 120 amps
  10. I self taught TIG after many years of mig and I reckon I was about 15-20 hours of solid practice (over the period of a month or so) before I could consistently weld thinish aluminium well enough that I'd be happy for it to be seen on a finished project. I started without a foot pedal and just using the button on the torch which I realised was so much harder than using the pedal. As soon as I used a pedal I would never go back to the button! You might find it easier practicing on something thicker, maybe 1/8" sheet. Will be more forgiving at the beginning.
  11. From that I'd say that you are too low on amps and doing everything too slowly. Looks like you're taking too long to get the pool going which is cooking the aluminium. Try increasing amps, if you're 60 now, try 100, you can always back the pedal off. You cleaning with acetone or alcohol before welding?
  12. I wouldn't preheat it either, I meant when the material is cold at first I'd use higher amps to tack it. Sounds like you're doing everything correct. Just practice now. Took me a lot of practice and I don't weld ali that regularly so would still practice a bit first even now if I had an important job to do. Only other thing is to make sure you stay nice and close. Don't get hung up on filler size, electrode size etc. Even base current isn't that important as you can just set it high and use the pedal anyway. Really is just practice now I reckon.
  13. Current is a bit low for 2mm, I'd be nearer 90 base and you can always back off the pedal a bit. If you're material is cold you will be struggling to get a tack on without cooking the aluminium. You want to get the weld down pretty quick - don't want to hang around and cook the aluminium. Basic things help a lot - good mask (can you see the weld pool very clearly? you need to), decent gloves that allow feel (not mig gauntlets), keep the filler rod shielded, clean everything, regrind the tungsten every time you touch it (very annoying for a beginner), keep practicing... you should be using
  14. Who made you the boss princess?
  15. because if he wants to learn how an internal combustion engine converts heat to rotation google will tell him without me typing thousands of words
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