Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mtrehy

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I've fitted one fairly recently. Was fine. Such a simple shape it would be hard for any one to make a really bad one.
  2. pump will be very noisy when fuel flow is limited. most likely as the car has been sat for a while rust or **** in the tank is restricting fuel flow to the pump. blocked filter etc. you need to check filters, hoses and tank outlet upstream of the pump. I wouldn't just chuck a new pump on it without knowing that the flow to the pump is adequate or you will just knacker the new pump.
  3. I do the 3 bolts that go through the crash pad first, leaving everything else loose. I then tweak the angle of the frame to suit the windows and then do the sides. not all seals are created equal either. I've been supplied 2 recently that had been punched incorrectly and the cut outs of the punch were visible on the outside of the frame. What dash pad are you using? The nasty aftermarket poly ones are very thick and don't help the situation
  4. mtrehy

    TR6 Project

    Hi Rex, I sent you a message.
  5. You can buy them ready to go for pennies. Why mess about making them? Increase the slot lengths that hold the side seals so that you can move them out further if they are not touching the top of the window. Do that before you paint the frame or put the velcro on. You'll thank me for it.
  6. I was recently supplied a 5/8 clutch master instead of 3/4 . Both TRW and both identical if you don't examine closely. I didn't realise until I fitted it and it didn't give enough movement at the slave.
  7. Rimmer, Moss, all the usual suspects. About 5£ per channel
  8. not my region but have done a few including one last week. not difficult but time consuming. You want to replace the front and side seals and velcro's, consider tidying up the hood frame, you'll need new webbing, new snap fasteners etc. it's a solid days work, more if you get into hood frame refurb etc. definitely get someone who's done a few. it's the sort of job you get better and faster at each time
  9. movement of slave is determined by how much fluid the master displaces. if for any reason you are losing master travel that will have a major effect on slave. Check pedal travel, pedal / master connection (worn clevis) etc.
  10. I've got a R-tech 160AC/DC Tig. very nice machine. Not my first TIG but as good as a better known much more expensive brand that I had previously. I still use the MIG for 95% of stuff and there's no doubt you could do a decent restoration with mig only. That said the more you use TIG the more you appreciate the difference and for me the option to occasionally weld aluminium is important. Generally I will use TIG for anything I can do on a bench i.e door repairs, panels off the car etc. On the car it's nearly always MIG and anything thick. TIG needs much more time and care spent on the repair panel and fit up. you can't get away with the same as you can with the mig. If you have TIG try some silicon bronze rods (if you haven't already). i really like them for low amp non-structural stuff. You need a decent mask for TIG - you really need to see what you are doing, a £20 auto-darkening mask is not going to cut it. Nice example of TIG on a tr6 door. High quality work. I've done the same repair a few times with MIG and while it would look the same with paint on it you can see the advantage of TIG. Clearly not his first rodeo.
  11. Anything can be repaired. Is it valuable or rare enough to bother is more the point.
  12. Rearmost is the easiest to remove normally
  13. There are 2 upper and 1 lower bolt each channel. The bar that staps the 2 channels together needs removing. Wind window up and should be able to jiggle them out. Loosen regulator if necessary.
  14. Too easy a job to bother with bodging in my opinion. I did a set a week or 2 back on a current restoration. Pics show the old guide and brackets. And the new guide which you need to attach the old brackets to. An hour or so per side, the guide is cheap. No specialist tools.
  15. you can jiggle the guides in and out with the window in place. loosen off the regulator bolts as required. you buy the guide in lengths and have to cut it and remove the old mounting brackets and fit to the new guide length with pop rivets.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.