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  1. I make my own from scratch. Personally I wouldn't use a standard one as a start point as they are often rotten and loads of leaks. You'd be better off selling that on ebay and using the money for the rest of the build. Exhaust tube and a bit of time will get you a decent plenum.
  2. mtrehy


    Hi Wayne, I've converted a couple of US cars to EFI and rhd recently. If you skim the US head for UK cr then you should use UK pushrods. I use Payen head gasket. There are many threads on here about ensuring no oil leak on the pushrod side of the head. Personally I remove the lacquer from the gasket in that area only and use small amount of loctite silicon in that area only. You'll get lots of conflicting advice so choice is yours. What you do for EFI is again up to you and your budget. I'm a machinist and fabricator so my method is largely custom made, if you want someth
  3. both areas are easy to isolate, i.e mask everything else. Not really sure why you wouldn't flat them off and blow them over properly.
  4. check exhaust manifold / gaskets for air leak
  5. did it always do it or recently started doing it?
  6. I didn't. I had planned to braze a strengthening ring but in the end just used hole saw and ring of rivnuts. Thick gasket and high quality sealant.
  7. Obviously you need to position it so the fuel sender float doesn't touch it.
  8. Not sure what you mean. I used the original tank as it was in good condition and a brand new pump. It's an early land rover v8 efi pump. Prc8318. Off the top of my head was less than £40 I had to lengthen the pump about 50mm so it reached the bottom of the tank but that only needed a bit of fuel hose and bit of scrap stainless bar. Nothing that takes special tools or more than 30 mins
  9. If you put it too far outwards it comes very close to the door cards - particularly if you have plushly trimmed cards.
  10. I've done both. Won't make much odds. Most of the adjustment is done at the back with the front located.
  11. You won't regret that decision, quite likely the other option would be regrettable.
  12. wasting time and money then. Do it right now. you need to get measuring.
  13. yes. realistically you'll find it needs a rebore but if you are adamant that you don't want to go that route then a bit of a glaze bust and new rings. depends what you are trying to achieve really, seems like you aren't keen on taking the engine out. All a bit odd though as you mentioned taking the head off to recut valves and seats (not due to head gasket failure). Not sure why you would do that when you have already self-diagnosed a bottom end problem
  14. don't need to read your posts champ. done hundreds of heads and worked with many top engine builders and never seen anyone resort to that. We both know it would have come off if he'd pulled it up straight. lucky he didn't put a 10ft scaffold bar on it and found it was genuinely stuck. good luck with your method. not my problem.
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