Richard M
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Posts posted by Richard M
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On 11/18/2004 at 1:03 PM, Guest Biffo said:
This IS the final installment ! Brackets received back from the engineering shop on Saturday, all the adjustments made, shot blasted and zinc plated - they look better than the originals. Fitted them up, spot on ! The car is all back together now and it all works fine. Phew.
Hi Biffo, I have just purchased the rear telescopic conversion with Konis's from the TR Shop for £339 only to find the same problems as you have had hence why l started to look on the internet to see if l was the only one to suffer this issue.
You thought it was your Heritage Chassis that had caused your problems but this not the case as l have a standard factory Chassis that is giving the same problems.
Most people who fit these conversions never check whether there bumps stops work & are unware of the bumps stops not being able to do there job as the shock absorber is bottoming out first due to lack of travel before it hits the bump stop.The Shock has now become the bump stop taking all the stress through the bracket that holds the shock right through to the Chassis which eventually will end up cracking the Chassis.
This all due to the brackets not being manufactured long enough to allow the shocks to travel further up into the wheel arch. They need extending approx another 50mm which you seem to have done to solve the problem which l will also have to do.
Its unbelievable to think you pay good money for a product that is suppose to be proffessionally designed & manufactured & you end up either damaging your cars Chassis or having to modify it yourself to the correct specification l might as well have made the brackets my self in the first place.
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3 hours ago, astontr6 said:
Hi Richard,
Wire size s/b at least 2mm sq. rated at 25 amps or 3 mm sq. rated at 33 amps. PVC insulation, thin wall type, automotive grade.
Bruce.
Hi Bruce,
My new Wiring loom was bought from autosparks so l will have to check if this has wiring to fuel pump is of the thickness you mention.
As far as fuel leaks go l have no leaks or stale fuel in the tank & car runs fine once it is started & restarted from hot also only when sitting for a few weeks then l have the problem trying to restart from cold.
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On 5/25/2020 at 8:34 PM, cp25616 said:
Richard I would also recommend a wiring upgrade working through a relay, to the fuel pump if you are using a Bosch item. The original wiring just isn't up to the amps required to make the Bosch pump work. The current draw for a Lucas pump is approx. 3.5 amps which was fine as the original wiring was rated at approx. 8 amps. well the Bosch pump requires 13 amps.
Speaks for itself really. I did this for both my TR6's and the cold starting has been transformed.
Alan G
Hi Alan,
My pump is a Bosch unit & l have fitted a new wiring loom but guess that makes no differance wiring is not one of my strong points what has be done to increase to 13amps ?
Richard.
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10 hours ago, Mike C said:
This happens to my car if I leave it for more than about a week. If I'm lucky , when trying to start after this time I can get it to fire quickly a few times on fuel that's retained in the system by starting with the throttle wide open - the short period of firing seems to throw a few quick pulses of fuel into the injector lines-my engine then dies but restarts fairly easily thereafter.
Are you sure your enrichment lever on the MU is correctly adjusted?
When you say adjusted correctly do mean when you pull the choke fully out the lever on the metering unit is pulled right back as far as it will go?
Have heard many saying they have over wintered there car & first start up fired within a few turns so if the PI cars are set up right they should all do the same suely ?
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10 hours ago, Mike C said:
This happens to my car if I leave it for more than about a week. If I'm lucky , when trying to start after this time I can get it to fire quickly a few times on fuel that's retained in the system by starting with the throttle wide open - the short period of firing seems to throw a few quick pulses of fuel into the injector lines-my engine then dies but restarts fairly easily thereafter.
Are you sure your enrichment lever on the MU is correctly adjusted?
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2 hours ago, Mick Forey said:
Hi Richard,
Assuming it is a PI car then it is common for the injector lines to empty over time. Make sure your fuel enrichment lever operates fully as this needs to be fully open to fill the injector lines again and build up enough pressure to open the injectors. The technique for starting after a prolonged period is full choke and crank away. This usually means that at least you get oil pressure before it fires. Mine then starts on 2-3 cylinders with the rest joining in when they feel like it.
Mick
Hi Mick,
Thanks for the reply.
Yes it is a PI sorry for got to mention that little detail.
I am starting the car as you have described but if battery was down on charge it would pull the battery to the point of not having enough energy left to start as it is taking too long to fire on any of the cylinders but once it is warm no problem.
Not sure if there is a non return valve in the metering unit as well as in the fuel line?
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Having a problem starting my Tr6 from cold when it sits for any length l was thinking it must be fuel drain back but not sure it has a non return valve are these common to fail or is it another problem l have ? Once its started it will start ok any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
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11 hours ago, Panch said:
Hi all,
I seem to have a leak on every bolt holding the aluminium sump on place..
It looks as though the oil is seeping down the thread and then forming a drop on the head of each bolt (see pic). I've tried removing the bolts and putting thread sealer on each along with adding a dowty washer, but that still hasn't seemed to have cured the issue.. anyone else encountered this and found a way of making it leak proof??
Panch
Hi Panch, I have the same problem but only on 3 bolt heads two on drivers side of engine second & third one back from timing case & one on left side towards the bell housing cured this one with sealant, but unable to stop the other two from leaking.
My thoughts are that it must be the gasket that has not been fitted correctly but now hearing your problem l am not so sure.
What grade oil are using ? since l changed my oil that must of been to thin & replaced with 20/50 it has reduced the leak.
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2 minutes ago, Dave McDonald said:
I thought I was an anorak saving all the old Motor Sport magazines from when I first bough one in September 1967, but old Exchange & Marts must be a really specialist niche market.
As you say, if only you'd bought one of those other Supercars of their time.
Dave
I have done it the other way round l bought the E type a few years ago & have now sold it then bought the TR6.
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11 hours ago, Bill944T said:
Reading a 1979 Exchange & Mart!
Not quite as bad as finding the actual 1976 copy that I'd bought and circled my desirable cars Dave! Why did I buy my K reg TR6 for £935 when I could (should?) have bought the AM DB 5 advertised for £1600? Or even the 1962 E type for £700................
Hey Ho!
Regards
Bill
I find it strange that the Tr6 is a very popular car but just has not climbed invalue any where near the likes of Aston Martin or Jag E type .
l know they are a notch up on the TR6 but since 2013 l have been following these prices & they seem to be stagnant even though parts to restore these cars have gone up & up & are not dissimilar to Aston or Jag.
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Hi, I would just like to say thankyou to everyone that replied to my question with there recommendations.
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Need to buy a set of summer tyres 195/65/15 which there are many choices but they all seem to look like they pritty basic for high MPG etc.
Can any one recommend a Performance tyre that has good grip in the dry /wet weather that is not a stupid price not bothered how long they last as age will kill them first ?
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Does any one here have the dimensions for a 1973 TR6 radio centre console side panels or have an old scrap one they would sell so l could copy from?
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2 hours ago, peejay4A said:
You could try “flyingenglishmen” on eBay. Also TRBitz, TRGB and RevingtonTR sell secondhand/reclaimed parts.
Thanks just bought a pair thanks for your help.
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On 12/20/2018 at 12:09 AM, Paul J said:
Ok so it’s the drivers door with the side impact protection that’s incorrect for my 73 CR.
Same door shape and fit with an extra security so I think I will leave as is and fit TR4 chrome door pulls to both doors. Unfortunately the passenger will not have side impact protection.!!
Thanks and Merry Christmas to all.
Just reading your thread & l have the same on my 73 CR with drivers door having impact protection and none in passengers door i thought maybe this had been replaced when car had first restoration done in the past.
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Hi, thanks for the welcome & help. On the moss site it is part no 90 but is no longer available any ideas where l can source from?
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Just rebuilding my TR6 doors & have noticed upper door regulators are missing. Do l need these for a soft top or is only necessary for when a hard top is fitted?
Rear Shock Conversion Problem
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Stuart,
Bought car in 2010 restoration finished 2019 chassis was restored by CTM.
I agree thread 17 years old same issues in 2021.
Went for a ride out with TR register yesterday firsy guy l spoke to with no mention of my issue has bought a week ago Telescopic conversion from TR shop brackets wont fit has had to get them modified. TR shop said they never had a problem l spoke with them 3 weeks ago they told me the same.