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Nobbyc

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  1. How far you want to go and how much you want to pay? I made this up from parts bought on ebay for less than $50. Has 6 fuses activated by ign key and 6 fuses straight from battery as well as relays for lights, horns, fans and overdrive. Mounted on board below dash out of site but easy to access as board is hinged to swing into view.
  2. Used steel tube supplied by local brake and clutch workshop. Hardest part was to get the wires down the middle. I ended up putting a relay in the horn circuit so that it only required a very thin wire up the tube to actuate the horn. Used an old speedo inner cable to thread thru first then taped wires to it to pull them thru.
  3. I do plenty of hill/mountain runs and brake pad knock back was a problem on any twisty section of road. Solved problem completely by fitting uprated stub axles and bearing spacers from TRF in USA. No issues knocking out old stubs on the car with hammer (as per Harry above). Did fiddle to set up as found spacer was .020 " too long and had to reduce in order to set up correctly with shims. One of the best mods i have done
  4. When front discs were introduced to TR3 i believe that they changed to separate master cyl for brake and clutch using a common reservior at same time. subsequent upgrades used separate masters with their own reservior. Indicates to me that common master tr2 style not suitable for disc brake operation. I converted a TR2 to front discs with toyota 4 pot calipers using TR4a master cylinders and TR4a pedals as the tr2 are too close together. If you go to TR4a - 6 set up you get the advantage of 3 deg castor which improves straight line steering and the 4 pots bolt on without modifi
  5. Do you have a brake booster in the system as the small piston that breaks the vacuum as you release the brake pedal can stick keeping pressure on the brakes.
  6. Managed to draw the bushes (white Delrin) in with a bolt, heavy washer and spacers. I x pin was a very nice firm push fit but the other will need reaming out to fit the pin.
  7. I would remove thermostat and fit new radiator cap 7lb before starting again. Run up to temp and see what happens.
  8. Problems fitting upgraded bush kit. The "poly bushes are 20 thou larger than the holes in the drag link, is there an easy way to install. The pins are loose in the bush but assume squashing the bush in the link takes up the slack or is there something wrong before i start.
  9. I have been running my 4cyl .on 10% ethanol fuel for years. When ethanol was introduced I had just finished a rebuild and had inserts in the head and replaced all the fuel hoses and run an electric pump. I cleaned my fuel tank out and installed an inline filter before the pump. I have changed the filter 3 times but never had one block. I have averaged 5000k per year and drive my car hard. Always be known to have a heavy right foot but fuel consumption is still better than 10 L/100k and on a long club run better than some others running on 98oct. I think all additives are snake oil and
  10. Removed mine 12 years ago. Just need suitable replacement bolt and and thick washer.
  11. I have had 2 x heads on different cars that have suffered from valve seat recession and had them fitted with new valves and hardened seats. Both then ran on E10 petrol with no issues one after 12 years.
  12. If somebody is intent on stealing then it is a simple task to hot wire the coil with a piece of wire from the battery and push start. If you have an electric fuel pump at the back under the tank a kill switch in the supply circuit would be much more effective. Alternatively install a battery isolation switch with a removable key under the dash (better than 1 but not as good as 2) It is a very good Lucas smoke extinguisher which can be operated instantly from the driving position. If you get into the habit of using all the time no battery drain due to leaving side lights on. Be
  13. The pulley has been assembled incorrectly. Enlarge your photo and compare to the above. Your alignment bar points to the error.
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