[Front spring sizes]

I think the SD1 rear springs would be to long.

For info:- The inside of the tower is 190mm wide. My springs are 160 diameter so there should be 15mm clearance each side. On the front there is a reinforcing member that attaches to the inner wing. This is tapered but extends into the turret space by as much as 20mm - its dificult to compare to the spring. This is part of my problem. Incidently this doesn't apear in Rimmers online catalogue - or the rear one - and i couldn't see them in online pictures. Not sure if everyone has these.

I also see that my 1st free coil is not concentric with the spring axis - looks like under load it will extend 5mm further.

Also because the spring axis is not concentric to the strut the spring moves off centre when the wheel turns.

The SD1 mount has an OD of 115mm so you can't fit a TR7 spring pad. I would have to change the mount aswell.

I also noticed that the lower pan is hitting the corner of the turret. Must be on full lock. I have the front quite low at present - hence the short springs. The pan is wider than the spring.

So to keep the cost down im going to grind 5mm off the front reinforcement. Fit the springs the other way up so the top is concentric and try and align the spring so its doesn't hit the reinforcement. If i cant find a simple way to make a spacer and raise the front about 10 mm i may cut the sides off the lower spring pan to clear the turret. The spacer has to ensure the spring doesn't move sideways off the pan.

 

Other info that may be of use to others:-

The SD1 mount has a bearing inside. It sits above the circumference of the mount so the top spring pad has a raised centre to match. I can see on one of mine there has been contact between the pad and the circumference. Since the circumference is fixed it has worn the pad, this would also make the steering heavy. I will fit a washer as a shim to ensure clearance.

The SD1 top pad is angled to match the offset bottom. The SD1 strut is 51mm diameter - i measured it. So you can use the standard coil over conversion parts. You can also fit a TR7 spring and it would sit on the lower seat pan. The pan has a taper down to the strut so it would sit OK and probably about 10mm lower than the SD1 spring. Lengths would probably be wrong though.

SD1 spring pad allows for 15" wheels. I can't tell if its the same height as a TR7 pad though.

Cheers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Front spring sizes]

Thanks David.

Im not having much luck on this.

I found some info on the TR7 springs:- 13.88" (350mm) free length, 7.5" (190mm) installed, 5.5" (142mm) OD. For uprated springs around 160lb/inch the free length should reduce to 10" (250mm). Can't find an internal diameter for the lower end though.

The SD1 struts have an OD of 2.25" (need to check this) but thats means you can't use standard coil overs as they assume the spring internal diameter is 2.25". The standard TR7 strut should be the normal 2". The std TR7 top mount can cope with a spring with ID 3.75" with a new rubber. I assume the standard spring internal is 4.5". So does have to be changed for coil overs.

My SD1 springs seem to have an OD of 6.25" (160mm) which is part of the problem. The other thing is that the SD1 lower pan is offset from the strut axis so it moves nearer the body when the wheels turn. My SD1 springs are supposedly 200Lb and only 8" long (200mm) free length.

Interestingly im looking at using rear springs as the data i can find on the standard TR7 has 166lb/ft, 10.2" free, 8" mounted (but would be different on the front). Just need to find some diameter info. Otherwise this could be a cheap option.

Im thinking I may cut the SD1 lower pan down, fit uprated TR7 springs (or rears) with new top seats and shim the bottom of the spring to get the height.

Any info greatly apreciated.

 

 

[Front spring sizes]

My 7 has SD1 front struts and custom springs. It looks like the springs are so big they rub on the inner wing panels under some conditions.

I may need to rework these for smaller springs and the obvious route is to go back to the stock size even though i would use uprated springs.

I may even consider a coil over set but those seem a lot smaller.

Anyone got the outside diameter of the standard springs and free and loaded length.

I can refit a standard top mount but need to asses how much i need to change on the lower spring platform.

 

[Eurosport/Rimmers TR40]

Blimmey, a thread from 2004 and it starts "does anyone remember".

 

[Found an abandoned 1979 rally car...]

I would love to find something like this and get it cheap.

Judging by the rust we can see, its a major project and 7 prices are not that high yet so a total rebuild doesn't make a lot of financial sense.

Reworking it to a competition car is probably easier but there isn't great demand.

Certainly a project but i guess the value is mainly for spares - and as a competion car there probably isn't a lot of original detail parts that can be striped.

It would be a shame to loose another hard top to scrap though. There numbers on the road were dwindling so its prime for a comeback on rarety value.

 

[Ignition problems]

Use a known good battery and or jump start it. Some times a poor battery doesn't have enough for the ignition when cranking.

Try this before going through the big list:-

Fould plugs, rotor arm, leads, disi cap, coil failure, ignition timing (though should produce a spark), wire from starter to coil broken.

Im running a V8 so hard to remember the original engine. Points not opening?

[TR8 with 100 miles for sale!]

Thats so you don't notice the bad fit on the boot lid.

[Fuel cap pressure valve pic required]

Thanks Keith.

So i am definately missing a valve. And as i suspected it has a stiffer spring than the air in valve.

Seems a bit poor that the  red plastic discs are just a friction grip in the counterbore.

I am assuming the ball sits on the black disc as its smaller than the spring. This disk has to be smaller than the bore to allow air flow around the perimeter.

The spring sits in the bottom of the bore and the cap is pressed in to hold it all in place.

Now to invent a replacement.

[What headlights to upgrade to]

Lights sorted. The switch was upside down relative to the connector. So the pins didn't all align.

because the new switch had a housing (with the light symbol) that didn't fit in my facia panel i took the switch out and used the original housing. I thought i had it the same way up but obviously not. Though i am surprised the connector wasn't polerised so it would only go the correct way up.

[Fuel cap pressure valve pic required]

My picture has all the parts the correct way up as they get assembled.

From your picture it looks like the rubber seal is missing so the metal disc has been inverted so as to pres on the on the filler pipe. Since the valve is the wrong way round it wont let air in so you should get vacuume in the tank as you run the fuel pump. Any signs of fuel starvation at the engine?

 

[What headlights to upgrade to]

Thanks for the replies.

Just to hijack my own thread. But i thought i would share my pain.

I fitted a new light switch. In order:-

Up position = off = works (oxymoron!)

Mid position = side lights on = works.

Bottom position = Headlights up and on = works.

Mid position = side light on & headlight up but not on = doesn't work. Not a big issue and convenient for changing the headlights.

Up position = off and lights down = works.

Obviously the issue is with the switch/wiring at the switch.  Im learning that on this car everthing has to come apart atleast twice.

 

[Fuel cap pressure valve pic required]

Taking a second look. In your picture the disc is upside down. You can see from mine that the rubber seal goes on the other side.

So the valve shown is the one i have. Is the other one the same?

The witness mark around your disc implies it has been fitted the way you have shown at least once. 

 

I have no idea what the big rubber disc/seal under the top does.

 

[Fuel cap pressure valve pic required]

Thanks Keith thats exactly what i wanted.

Bet you cant get those parts any more. Bit fidly but i will power up the 3D printer and see what i can create.

I can find a ball bearing, spring stifness will have to be a bit of a guess and depend on what pens i can mutilate.

 

[Fuel cap pressure valve pic required]

As part of an investigation to why fuel "dissapears" from the car i decided to check the fuel filler.

Having dissmantled it i found it has one valve to allow air in and no valve in the counterbored pocket next to it which leaves a hole about 3mm diameter for vapour to escape.

Logic tells me there should be a pressure relief valve there - probably a spring + ballbearing + plastic retainer. Can't seem to find any info on this.

I have now blocked the passage with a rawlplug and screw.

Any one got any info or a picture.

I included a picture of the main components for future reference. The 2nd part from the left has the valve in and the empty hole.

[What headlights to upgrade to]

Thanks for the replies.

So far I can't find a good reason not to get a cheap halogen kit from Rimmers. I can upgrade bulbs and wiring later.

M

[What headlights to upgrade to]

Hi all.

Got my 7 V8 rolling again after about 10 years and working through the job list.

Just rebuilt the light switch. I have another on order as its one of those parts you don't want to fail when your in the middle of knowhere.

It reminded me that the headlights weren't great at piercing the gloom so I was wondering about an upgrade.

I still have sealed beam units but there are a host of options out there. Mine a UK RHD.

Seems theres conversion kits and different bulb types and powers.

Anyone got any experience or advice.