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  1. Blimmey, a thread from 2004 and it starts "does anyone remember".
  2. I would love to find something like this and get it cheap. Judging by the rust we can see, its a major project and 7 prices are not that high yet so a total rebuild doesn't make a lot of financial sense. Reworking it to a competition car is probably easier but there isn't great demand. Certainly a project but i guess the value is mainly for spares - and as a competion car there probably isn't a lot of original detail parts that can be striped. It would be a shame to loose another hard top to scrap though. There numbers on the road were dwindling so its prime for a comeback on rarety value.
  3. Use a known good battery and or jump start it. Some times a poor battery doesn't have enough for the ignition when cranking. Try this before going through the big list:- Fould plugs, rotor arm, leads, disi cap, coil failure, ignition timing (though should produce a spark), wire from starter to coil broken. Im running a V8 so hard to remember the original engine. Points not opening?
  4. Thats so you don't notice the bad fit on the boot lid.
  5. Thanks Keith. So i am definately missing a valve. And as i suspected it has a stiffer spring than the air in valve. Seems a bit poor that the red plastic discs are just a friction grip in the counterbore. I am assuming the ball sits on the black disc as its smaller than the spring. This disk has to be smaller than the bore to allow air flow around the perimeter. The spring sits in the bottom of the bore and the cap is pressed in to hold it all in place. Now to invent a replacement.
  6. Lights sorted. The switch was upside down relative to the connector. So the pins didn't all align. because the new switch had a housing (with the light symbol) that didn't fit in my facia panel i took the switch out and used the original housing. I thought i had it the same way up but obviously not. Though i am surprised the connector wasn't polerised so it would only go the correct way up.
  7. My picture has all the parts the correct way up as they get assembled. From your picture it looks like the rubber seal is missing so the metal disc has been inverted so as to pres on the on the filler pipe. Since the valve is the wrong way round it wont let air in so you should get vacuume in the tank as you run the fuel pump. Any signs of fuel starvation at the engine?
  8. Thanks for the replies. Just to hijack my own thread. But i thought i would share my pain. I fitted a new light switch. In order:- Up position = off = works (oxymoron!) Mid position = side lights on = works. Bottom position = Headlights up and on = works. Mid position = side light on & headlight up but not on = doesn't work. Not a big issue and convenient for changing the headlights. Up position = off and lights down = works. Obviously the issue is with the switch/wiring at the switch. Im learning that on this car everthing has to come apart atleast twice.
  9. Taking a second look. In your picture the disc is upside down. You can see from mine that the rubber seal goes on the other side. So the valve shown is the one i have. Is the other one the same? The witness mark around your disc implies it has been fitted the way you have shown at least once. I have no idea what the big rubber disc/seal under the top does.
  10. Thanks Keith thats exactly what i wanted. Bet you cant get those parts any more. Bit fidly but i will power up the 3D printer and see what i can create. I can find a ball bearing, spring stifness will have to be a bit of a guess and depend on what pens i can mutilate.
  11. As part of an investigation to why fuel "dissapears" from the car i decided to check the fuel filler. Having dissmantled it i found it has one valve to allow air in and no valve in the counterbored pocket next to it which leaves a hole about 3mm diameter for vapour to escape. Logic tells me there should be a pressure relief valve there - probably a spring + ballbearing + plastic retainer. Can't seem to find any info on this. I have now blocked the passage with a rawlplug and screw. Any one got any info or a picture. I included a picture of the main components for future reference. The 2nd part from the left has the valve in and the empty hole.
  12. Thanks for the replies. So far I can't find a good reason not to get a cheap halogen kit from Rimmers. I can upgrade bulbs and wiring later. M
  13. Hi all. Got my 7 V8 rolling again after about 10 years and working through the job list. Just rebuilt the light switch. I have another on order as its one of those parts you don't want to fail when your in the middle of knowhere. It reminded me that the headlights weren't great at piercing the gloom so I was wondering about an upgrade. I still have sealed beam units but there are a host of options out there. Mine a UK RHD. Seems theres conversion kits and different bulb types and powers. Anyone got any experience or advice.
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