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  1. If it is only due to the turnbuckle I can only assume that its an earth issue and that now the pod is touching the metal bracket its creating a circuit. Doesn't make any sense to me as there seems to be plenty of other conductive routes. If you have the rubber stops on the bracket this shouldn't happen. Might be worth putting some tape over the stop points to ensure they are insulated and see if that cures it. Since the pods are moving to different positions it may be that one has the lift arm fitted 180degrees out. Not sure how that affects the headlight but you don't know if someone tried to fix it by changing the wiring. Hope we are helping. Atleast we are sharing the pain.
  2. I had a weird issue when i replaced the main light switch. It doesn't sound the same as yours but be aware that the connector to the main switch can be fitted the wrong way round and give some peculiar combinations. Are both pods up at the same time or do you mean when both lights are lit the RHS is up and the LHS is down? Does the pod go up and down without stoping. If memory serves there is a 2 pole switch in the motor housing thats trigered in the up position to stop the motor. If this is faulty the motor keeps turning and goes back down. I think the other pole trigers on the down position. I believe these are pins on the motor connector as it feeds to the main light switch. If a couple of the terminals on the wiring connector are swaped you may have your problem. Im not the expert on this just trying to point you at a few areas to check.
  3. Anyone know where i can get the flocked seal strip that goes between the door trim panel and the window on a DHC. This is the inside one not the rubber one on the outside. After hunting around for ages i have come to the conclusion its sold by the bog suppliers as part of the trim panel. I don't want to but a whole panel just for the seal strip. Im missing the RHS one and it means the glass rattles a bit. Any alternatives or suggestions apreciated. Regards
  4. If we are speculating, they could be for seat belts. I don't recall them on mine.
  5. I think the SD1 rear springs would be to long. For info:- The inside of the tower is 190mm wide. My springs are 160 diameter so there should be 15mm clearance each side. On the front there is a reinforcing member that attaches to the inner wing. This is tapered but extends into the turret space by as much as 20mm - its dificult to compare to the spring. This is part of my problem. Incidently this doesn't apear in Rimmers online catalogue - or the rear one - and i couldn't see them in online pictures. Not sure if everyone has these. I also see that my 1st free coil is not concentric with the spring axis - looks like under load it will extend 5mm further. Also because the spring axis is not concentric to the strut the spring moves off centre when the wheel turns. The SD1 mount has an OD of 115mm so you can't fit a TR7 spring pad. I would have to change the mount aswell. I also noticed that the lower pan is hitting the corner of the turret. Must be on full lock. I have the front quite low at present - hence the short springs. The pan is wider than the spring. So to keep the cost down im going to grind 5mm off the front reinforcement. Fit the springs the other way up so the top is concentric and try and align the spring so its doesn't hit the reinforcement. If i cant find a simple way to make a spacer and raise the front about 10 mm i may cut the sides off the lower spring pan to clear the turret. The spacer has to ensure the spring doesn't move sideways off the pan. Other info that may be of use to others:- The SD1 mount has a bearing inside. It sits above the circumference of the mount so the top spring pad has a raised centre to match. I can see on one of mine there has been contact between the pad and the circumference. Since the circumference is fixed it has worn the pad, this would also make the steering heavy. I will fit a washer as a shim to ensure clearance. The SD1 top pad is angled to match the offset bottom. The SD1 strut is 51mm diameter - i measured it. So you can use the standard coil over conversion parts. You can also fit a TR7 spring and it would sit on the lower seat pan. The pan has a taper down to the strut so it would sit OK and probably about 10mm lower than the SD1 spring. Lengths would probably be wrong though. SD1 spring pad allows for 15" wheels. I can't tell if its the same height as a TR7 pad though. Cheers.
  6. Thanks David. Im not having much luck on this. I found some info on the TR7 springs:- 13.88" (350mm) free length, 7.5" (190mm) installed, 5.5" (142mm) OD. For uprated springs around 160lb/inch the free length should reduce to 10" (250mm). Can't find an internal diameter for the lower end though. The SD1 struts have an OD of 2.25" (need to check this) but thats means you can't use standard coil overs as they assume the spring internal diameter is 2.25". The standard TR7 strut should be the normal 2". The std TR7 top mount can cope with a spring with ID 3.75" with a new rubber. I assume the standard spring internal is 4.5". So does have to be changed for coil overs. My SD1 springs seem to have an OD of 6.25" (160mm) which is part of the problem. The other thing is that the SD1 lower pan is offset from the strut axis so it moves nearer the body when the wheels turn. My SD1 springs are supposedly 200Lb and only 8" long (200mm) free length. Interestingly im looking at using rear springs as the data i can find on the standard TR7 has 166lb/ft, 10.2" free, 8" mounted (but would be different on the front). Just need to find some diameter info. Otherwise this could be a cheap option. Im thinking I may cut the SD1 lower pan down, fit uprated TR7 springs (or rears) with new top seats and shim the bottom of the spring to get the height. Any info greatly apreciated.
  7. My 7 has SD1 front struts and custom springs. It looks like the springs are so big they rub on the inner wing panels under some conditions. I may need to rework these for smaller springs and the obvious route is to go back to the stock size even though i would use uprated springs. I may even consider a coil over set but those seem a lot smaller. Anyone got the outside diameter of the standard springs and free and loaded length. I can refit a standard top mount but need to asses how much i need to change on the lower spring platform.
  8. Blimmey, a thread from 2004 and it starts "does anyone remember".
  9. I would love to find something like this and get it cheap. Judging by the rust we can see, its a major project and 7 prices are not that high yet so a total rebuild doesn't make a lot of financial sense. Reworking it to a competition car is probably easier but there isn't great demand. Certainly a project but i guess the value is mainly for spares - and as a competion car there probably isn't a lot of original detail parts that can be striped. It would be a shame to loose another hard top to scrap though. There numbers on the road were dwindling so its prime for a comeback on rarety value.
  10. Use a known good battery and or jump start it. Some times a poor battery doesn't have enough for the ignition when cranking. Try this before going through the big list:- Fould plugs, rotor arm, leads, disi cap, coil failure, ignition timing (though should produce a spark), wire from starter to coil broken. Im running a V8 so hard to remember the original engine. Points not opening?
  11. Thats so you don't notice the bad fit on the boot lid.
  12. Thanks Keith. So i am definately missing a valve. And as i suspected it has a stiffer spring than the air in valve. Seems a bit poor that the red plastic discs are just a friction grip in the counterbore. I am assuming the ball sits on the black disc as its smaller than the spring. This disk has to be smaller than the bore to allow air flow around the perimeter. The spring sits in the bottom of the bore and the cap is pressed in to hold it all in place. Now to invent a replacement.
  13. Lights sorted. The switch was upside down relative to the connector. So the pins didn't all align. because the new switch had a housing (with the light symbol) that didn't fit in my facia panel i took the switch out and used the original housing. I thought i had it the same way up but obviously not. Though i am surprised the connector wasn't polerised so it would only go the correct way up.
  14. My picture has all the parts the correct way up as they get assembled. From your picture it looks like the rubber seal is missing so the metal disc has been inverted so as to pres on the on the filler pipe. Since the valve is the wrong way round it wont let air in so you should get vacuume in the tank as you run the fuel pump. Any signs of fuel starvation at the engine?
  15. Thanks for the replies. Just to hijack my own thread. But i thought i would share my pain. I fitted a new light switch. In order:- Up position = off = works (oxymoron!) Mid position = side lights on = works. Bottom position = Headlights up and on = works. Mid position = side light on & headlight up but not on = doesn't work. Not a big issue and convenient for changing the headlights. Up position = off and lights down = works. Obviously the issue is with the switch/wiring at the switch. Im learning that on this car everthing has to come apart atleast twice.
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