Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

337 profile views
  1. Well the obvious answer to your question is that the radiator is blocked. A messy test for that would be to disconnect the top and bottom hose from the rad. Then use the garden hose in the top hose position and check the water flows. Might be worth doing the reverse while your at it then again from the top. That should give it a bit of a clear out anyway.
  2. I did the bushes from underneath on my 8. But its more awkward due to twin exhausts. I was in a hurry and actually cut down some grommets i had. In my case the symptom was difficult gear selection. The original bushes had gone hard and crumbled away. Glad you fixed it.
  3. The original outlet will have a filter inside the tank and should be adequate for EFI. If you use it as a return you risk filling the filter up with any **** missed by your inline filter. It will also protect your pump. You can use your new fitting in the base for the return. Alternatively you can remove the plate over the filler hose in the boot and "Tee" into the breather line for a return. Not sure why you need a low pressure pump.
  4. Out of balance carbs or incorrect fuel level.
  5. A web search reveals you are not the first to have this on a car. Maybe the first on a 7 though. None of those have a clear resolution. Can you check with engine off that the brakes work. Im wondering if its actually mechanical binding which is released when the vac is applied. Something like the rubber dust cap on the master cylinder jamming but when vac is applied it "inflates" and frees the push rod. That then reveals another issue which is the soft pedal. Seems the system is split so the rear take off from the master is for the front wheels and the front take off is for the rears
  6. I can't work out the logic but i think the issue is in the master cylinder. There is a mechanical link from the pedal through the booster so the only way that is going to go soft is if something deflects the pushrod. That's unlikely. More likely either a seal has been damaged or a piston has got stuck when bleeding because you tend to push the piston further than normal so it goes into an unused (corroded) area. If you can push the slave cylinders in, the reverse flow may free it up but that obviously means getting to the brakes. You can try putting a pump on the nipples to push bac
  7. For info:- I installed a new sender unit the other week but hadn't connected the rest of the system. Its EFI with a home brewed fuel setup. I had a growing unease about the sensor output so pulled it out to wire an earth lead to the float arm. The rubber ring round the float fell off. I found another the correct size and fitted that. TRactions article on E10 fuels jolted my brain. That rubber ring that fell off now fits my old sender but i just put it in fuel to soak and after about 1 hour it had swollen and would fall off. So current fuels have probably made you rings swel
  8. Seems weird. Booster should have held vac even without the engine running. But assuming its lost vac that would make the pedal heavier without the engine not loose brake pressure. With engine running it should be a lighter pedal but still get pressure. Are both brake circuits loosing pressure? I think they should be split diagonally.
  9. Not sure what we could recommend as we don't know the objective. As its an x race engine I would assume its a high lift cam, possibly solid lifters. Due to the cam its probably got high load valve springs to stop float. That generates a lot of load on the rockers and shaft. Sounds like it has the standard shaft set up not rockers with the individual bearings on a base plate. Lubrication may actually be the problem. You do need the correct (for the parts) bearing clearance or the oil just flows out instead of supporting the load. That's probably why they are getting hot now
  10. As we come out of lock down it still looks like it will be some time before social events will happen. Im struggling to know where i am going to get my next automotive "fix". Motor sport and other public events wont be up and running for some time. So I was wondering if we could get all the clubs together and organize a driving parade where every one - that's "Joe Public" can park up with a picnic and watch the cars go by. If we could pick a date and get the local clubs to identify a route around their county, and a link route to the neighboring counties any one with an interest
  11. Its worth thinking about pump priming and fuel tank draining before you start. Im thinking of fitting a 3way Y fuel tap between the tank and the pump so i can:- 1. Turn off the tank while playing with the fuel system. 2. Drain the tank/system easily. 3. Connect to the drain and turn the tank Off so i can prime the pump.
  12. Melcoagain


    I think the EFI has the flapper air meter. If so it could be jammed shut so you are only getting idle air flow. Should be able to remove it and clean out. Could be the meter is not working electrically in which case it wont schedule the extra fuel so it would run lean. Might be able to clean up the contacts and wiper (inside not the connector pins), Could also be the mice have eaten through the intake hose so its not sucking air through the meter at all.
  13. Ok. Its acting as a switch to earth instead of going through the gauge. But the separate circuits bit is not clear. In both methods both systems fail if there is no power from the delay unit. But yes you are right that they have separate outputs.
  14. My understanding of how this works is as follows. The numbers are made up for the explanation as i have nothing to measure. 12v from the cluster goes through the delay unit heater coil (1 ohm resistance). Then down to the sender (1 terminal). This connects to the bottom of the sensor resistor. The top of the sensor resistor connects to earth via the terminal (2nd terminal) and to the body. Assuming the sensor resistor is 19 ohms then total resistance is 19+1=20ohms. 12v/20=0.6amps. The 0.6amps doesn't create a lot of heat on the warning light delay contact so the light is open circuit and
  15. RobH might be right. I don't have a circuit in front of me. Many of the circuits don't show the sender internals so its hard to tell. I still think its in series. But i reiterate that its a delay unit not a relay. If you fit a relay the warning light would come on every time the sender float dropped. That's driving up hill and going round bends with about a quarter of a tank. Some sources may list it as a relay if they are not clear how it works or the typist thought it was misspelt. If you earth the signal to the gauge it should go full deflection.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.