ChippyMike
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Posts posted by ChippyMike
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You're probably right Rob.
My TR7 did exactly the same a few years back. A quick and easy change of the oil sensor cured the issue.
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Hi Zepic
I hope you legally get hold of that car and get it restored.
Good thinking!!
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Most 7's I've owned have had problems with the light motors. Although there are obviously in-depth problems here and luckily expert help, I only had to check up and clean all the connections where they're exposed under the front of the car.
I'd also recommend being careful. A few years back one of my lights refused to pop up so I knelt down at the front of the car and began manually turning the knob. All of a sudden the pod raised and smacked me under the chin and I badly bit my tongue!
Makes me smile now, but very painful at the time!!
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Whenever I've bought a TR7 in the past one of the first places I check for rust is the turrets and bulkhead. If these are in bad condition it's a good chance that all the other known rust areas will be requiring attention too.
My 7 is pretty solid, apart from having to replace the sub-frame last year. I did notice a smell of petrol a couple of months back and noticed that the tank is now leaking.
New tanks are quite expensive but I don't think I'll risk a second hand one unless it looks in excellent condition. If anyone has one I'd be very interested. Not seen many advertised!
Mike.
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Hi Ken
There are usually quite a few good experts on here, I'm sure you'll get some useful advice at some point.
I know nothing about a TR8 EFI and am reasonably basic about my 7, but if I experienced that my first thoughts would be timing.
If that TR8 came from California I bet it's totally rust free!
Mike.
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Hi Frank
I've replaced mine in the past as the originals were flattening and disintegrating. I didn't look into various products and just bought some standard ones from Rimmers which did the job and improved the looks.
My 7 is stored up a few miles away at the moment so unlike you I'm not being lucky enough to enjoy getting it ready for the road again.
Nice to talk about it though!!
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Nice to see an update on your project, I've found it very interesting and think you're doing a great job restoring your 7.
The VIN plate with the paint and trim code is usually on the O/S suspension turret under the bonnet. I have heard about them sometimes being on the doors but have never found one there.
I would have thought with the intense bodywork you've been doing that if it was still there you would have spotted it by now.
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I think the centre pivot on the front bumper, which is only on the convertible, has some significance with the weights too.
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Hi Andy
I've removed them in the past and someone told me I shouldn't have done it as they're to help stability and body shaking. I've noticed absolutely no difference!
Mike.
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I've always removed the strips as I find they hold dirt and encourage rust. I have found the odd rivet Howard, but I think that's where previous owners have gone for the easiest way of keeping them on. They're held on by plastic clips which usually end up breaking as the strip is prised off. Unless I do it wrong!!
I think you can still buy new clips from suppliers.
Mike.
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You're right Steve, that fabric top does look a bit scruffy. The owner was obviously proud of it though........but you'd have thought he'd have cleaned that bird poop of the rear boot and bumper before snapping it!!
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Hi Nick
I've learnt from experience. About 15 years ago I converted a FHC to a convertible. I thought I'd Really overdone it with body strengthening, but it still felt a little shaky. Also after about 6 months the door gaps started showing movement. I ended up selling it for spares.
I feel guilty for destroying a perfectly solid Fixed head!!
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Not been on here for a while and found your updates very interesting. Has the cold weather kept you out of the workshop?
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I've put a wood kit on my convertible 7 which I'm really impressed with. I also changed the dash to a black one Which I know isn't original, but in my opinion looks so much better.
Mike.
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Hi Nick
I've not been on this forum for a little while now and this was the first thread I thought I'd read.
That's an interesting link you've posted. It looks like the 7 was originally a coupe and has been modified by having a section of the roof cut out. Hopefully whoever did it has strengthened the bodyshell as it may just start to bend in the middle!!
Mike.
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You're right, I've always scratched or damaged something lifting it out. Don't know why I didn't try this idea!
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I've also never heard of this method for the TR7. I've removed several and always used the procedure you mentioned by raising the rear end.
But You have said that you've removed the subframe in earlier posts, if that's still not in place it could in theory work quite easily. Provided of course, if you have the means to raise the car.
Be interested to hear how that one goes!
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My 7 failed it's MOT last year as it had a small hole in the underside of the subframe. The garage said they would have to remove it to weld as it was so close to the Mountings. I decided it was cheaper to fit a replacement and eventually found one on eBay for £180, plus travelling from the Cotswolds to Manchester to collect it.
The removal of the old one and fitting the replacement was a lot easier than I thought. I was so glad I made the decision to do it as when the old one came off it was virtually crumbling away! It would never have been repairable and was probably very dangerous! Not sure at what point my 1981 TR7 will become MOT exempt, but this was a problem that I probably wouldn't have noticed until I experienced structural failure!
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In my opinion the sill trims would trap dirt, hold moisture and encourage corrosion. I removed them from all the various TR7s I've owned, but always passed them on to the new owners when I sold the cars.
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'Par for the course' would probably have been a better phrase.
Still love it though!!
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It's British Leyland. Just expect the unexpected!!
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Back axle needs replacing too!!
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You'll definitely need a 5 speed prop shaft, very likely a bellhousing too.
In my opinion you're making the right decision on converting to a five speed. It drives so much better and is a more robust box.
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May seem a basic answer, but my fan didn't work when I purchased the car. It had been stood for a while and just needed the slider switch connection cleaning.
Handbrake lever extender
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
My helpful MOT guy used to turn a blind eye to the handbrake on the 7!!