DesNoble
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Posts posted by DesNoble
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Thanks to everyone for their offers and help. With a few tweaks suggested by Andrew my carbs seem to be running well.
Thanks
Des.
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Alan
Yes I've looked at Burlen's prices for replacements but am looking at the alternatives at the moment.
Des.
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Hi Dave
Thanks for the response. Can I hold fire on this as I've been in contact with Andrew Turner who may have resolved my problem for me. However if not then I would be interested in your suggestion.
Regards.
Des.
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Good afternoon gents, (Ade, Rich and Dave).
Firstly, Dave I now know what a PM is.
Secondly, Ade and Rich, I've just had a conversation with Andrew Turner and there is a possibility that I can use a pair of pistons and dashpots which I already have with a minor modification, so that will be my first port of call. In the meantime thank you for your responses which I will bear in mind.
Rich those carbs look fantastic. I could be sorely tempted, but I'll go with Andrew's advice initially.
Thank you guys.
Best regards.
Des.
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Thanks for the reply. I have a couple of feelers out as I am trying initially to replace one piston and dashpot which got corroded due to the car being laid up. However in the meantime could you please have a look at the number cast inside the piston and confirm if it says 3284 as that is what I am looking for. The next question is what the condition of the pistons and dashpots are. If you were able to split them I'd prefer that and sell separately, if not it would depend on their useable condition as they are now.
Another possibility would be if you had a complete set of HS6 carbs as I am using a TR4A manifold.
People refer to contact via PM but I don't know what that means.
Regards.
Des.
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Thanks for the replies gents. Your comments were taken in the spirit they were intended. For the record I am already in contact with Andrew Turner whom I have found very helpful previously.
Des.
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Alan good afternoon
Do you still have some of the H6 carb bits. If so I'm looking for a piston and dashpot. The piston should have 3284 cast on the inside.
Regards.
Des.
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Hi Ade
Are your carbs still for sale.
Regards.
Des.
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Hi Bob
It's late in the day but do you have an SU H6 carb, in particular a piston and dashpot. The piston should have 3284 cast on the inside.
Regards.
Des.
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Stuart Correction: I need pistons with the number 3284 on the bottom so the ones on eBay with 3283 were not correct after all. Thanks for the lead though.
Anyone reading this I'm still in the market for one piston and dashpot for my TR3A H6 carbs. The piston should have the number 3284 inside.
Thank you.
Des.
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Stuart Two of the pistons were 3283 but by the time I got that they had ended. Thanks again. Des.
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4 hours ago, stuart said:
This collection of bits might help H6 carb parts
Stuart.
Thanks Stuart, I think the pistons are from a later carb than mine as mine have a flat bottom and those seem to have two slots leading to the two holes. I've asked the seller if he can send me photos or the number on the inside of the piston. They do seem to have the H6 long body.
Thank you very much for spotting that.
Regards.
Des.
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Hi I'm looking for an SU H6 piston and dashpot for my TR3A to replace one of mine which was corroded and now has a drop time of about three secs where as the good one takes about 7 secs. I've looked at H6 for AH but the pistons are different and have a number on the piston of 3283 where as mine has 3284 on t and has two holes in the bottom. Anyone with a reasonable/good set that they are willing to part with would be very welcome.
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Am I right in thinking that the glass for these is the same as the mini and if so are they still available. I have my old original headlights which I would consider resilvering but I would also need a glass.
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I have a pair of the P700 fitted to my car. I bought the more expensive ones with Halogen bulbs rather than Ebay ones and I must say I'm pleased with mine. You're now going to ask me where I got them from. Off hand I can't remember but I'll try to find the old invoice and if I do I'll post it.
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I squeezed the prop tunnel by using clamps rather than a hammer. It doesn't require much effort.
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Hard luck Peter. Did they foul the rear seat or the wheel arch, just curious.
Des.
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Hi David,
Those are great looking seats nice job. Good luck with fitting them into your TR. They'll fit but you've got to squeeze every mm out of the body. I pinched the prop shaft tunnel to get more room. Also if you fit seatbelts I used a 30cm stalk. on the other side the floor mountings bolts to the floor about 21/2 - 3" in front of the seat back, it should say so on the directions, but fitting the bolt again is very tight and has to be done in the right order.
Look forward to seeing the final result.
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By the way, don't take the measurements as correct for your car, and all the brackets don't have to be exactly the same as these shapes. You'll see why when you try your own seats as you may have to work around mounting bolts for the body etc. Also the dimensions for the front runner mounts should be measured from your seats.
I also when you bolt your brackets to the floor I added a second small nut and bolt so that the bracket was positively located. I also used the original TR locating captive nuts .
Des.
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You have to either buy brackets or make them yourself. I copied the brackets from a previous posting with a few alterations and they worked very well. I've copied their photos, "I hope they don't mind", for info. Make sure the front can be raised as the seats are inclined quite a bit.
Des.
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That's a fairly unanimous response so I'm off into the cold to attempt that.
Des.
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Hi Bob
That has been suggested but I didn't think there would be enough movement without undoing all the fixings along the body attachment and am reluctant to do that unless it's absolutely necessary. Rereading your response it's a sideways movement that is required. Have you tried this or do you think there is usually enough give in the body to do this.
Des.
PS The more I think about this the more I realise that I might have to try that. One of those jobs which should have been checked prior to painting the car.
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Good morning all.
I couldn't see any items on this topic so here goes.
While fitting the rear overriders with the bolt/tube the holes don't quite align up. I've been able to use an 8mm ripper to open up part of the inner/middle hole but because of the chassis there's not enough room to complete the hole. My ripper tool isn't quite long enough to reach from the outside and of course I don't want to damage the paintwork. Anyone with any ideas or tools. I've been unable to find any suitable tools.
Regards.
Des.
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Thanks guys it didn't occur to me to start it off with a countersunk bolt. I'll give that a try.
Des
Fuel tap leaking
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi Richard,
The cork part of the plunger can be replaced. I bought a replacement but it leaked. I also made a new one out of a wine cork by turning it in a drill with sand paper. However I found that if you tighten the nut at the end which holds the cork plunger in place the cork is forced to expand and will seal the tap.
Regards.
Des.