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David B2

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Posts posted by David B2

  1. Many thanks all, now sorted.

    Jerry, your recommendation has retired.

    Pete, no availability for my timescale before storage charges kick in but he did reply.

    Roger, Super23 no reply.      Bespokehandling way too expensive.    Shiply; didn't try them. thought I would get a load of recovery companies. 

    Booked cartransportinkent;  local to me so I guess offered a good price and a classic car mover.  Will advise if it works out, Tuesday.

    David B

    .

     

  2. is this why I've had no replies to recommendations for a car transport service. see general technical todays post. 

    if it is please would responders give company name not a link.

    taa, David B

     

    ps. I like the trident video Roger but could a moderator let us see the DH121 video. tea

  3. Hello all,

    I need my latest car acquisition transported from Oxford to Kent ASAP.  

    Has anyone any recommendations ???  Either based near the Oxford area or the Sevenoaks, Kent area. My usual man has a poorly truck so looking for an alternate. Or are there any members who provide this service.

    .......should have said, its an MGB :rolleyes: but I am a TR member.

     

    Thanks all, David B

     

     

  4. Peter,

    Thanks Peter, It looks like it would. Didn't find this on my TR handbrake search and picture of pawl shows the the rod is hidden and therefore non flyoff.  But my job is done and fitted now so may be useful to others. 

    Early Spitfires used the fly off type but the MkIV reverted to non flyoff. I wonder why !!!!  The knob and rod that I used was also on the Herald. 

    David B 

  5. Stuart

    Thanks for response but I have struggled to find SH. Wingco and TRtrader show lever assemblies on eBay but both without the knob and rod which is the missing part I need.  Moss and Rimmer show new and SH unavailable. But.......

    Jim,

    Thanks for the link to the item on the Revington site. Didn't see this assembly in my search, only the lever. However, the assembly is £218.76 (Ouch) and the part I need, the Knob and Rod, I purchased for £6.49.  I have used the photo you linked to and kinked my straight rod to match the photo, rebuilt the assembly using a clevis pin through the lever and pawl and it works perfectly. 

    Result a satisfying series of clicks when the handbrake is engaged.

    Thanks all, David B

  6. This may be heresy but I am converting my Fly-off handbrake to Non Fly-off. ie. NORMAL!!!!  Knob and Rods of various types are reported unavailable on main supplier sites.  I have a kinked handbrake lever on my TR4A.

    I therefore attempted to reshape the existing fly-off hooked end to Spoon end which also involved adding a kink to the rod. Not very successfully as shape and length are critical to prevent any jamming. So I attempted (again unsuccessfully) to put the hook back in and return the rod to straight. You guessed it….made a hash of it and now unusable.

    So went back to searching for the reported unavailable part and managed to find a spoon end rod for a straight lever from Canley Classics, Part number 132588.  Now I need to kink it to make it suit my kinked lever. To become Part 148082.

    Can anyone kindly assist if anyone out there has a 148082 available. Two dimensions but I appreciate rod needs to be dismantled from the lever. The angle of the bend and distance from inside of the knob to the bend. as the attached crude sketch. 

    Or a photo taken from above of the item so I can scale it and bend to suit.  

     

    Many thanks, David B

    image.png.495a0ba74ddc7d32eb57b2fc97f5cadd.png

  7. On 11/15/2023 at 7:04 AM, Grahamgl said:

    Gentlemen,

    I bought a 4” angle grinder to use with fibre pads to remove the paint from the panels of my TR4.  I used it yesterday with a cutting disc to cut some metal angle to brace the door gaps. I was surprised at the speed of rotation and feel it would be to fast for paint removal hence my question.

    Is there a simple device that I could buy to reduce the speed of my angle grinder( mains powered Makita)?

    Thanks

    Graham

    I also found mains powered angle grinders are too fast and fierce for paint removal application. I have had a mains powered Bosch for years that runs at 11,500 rpm.  V good for cutting and heavy grinding.

    I recently bought a Einhell battery model as I wanted a tool more convenient and safer than trailing leads.  It did that and then I found that its speed 8,500rpm was just right for light grinding/smoothing and absolutely right for paint removal using poly abrasive wheels. 

    Battery models all run slower than mains.  Recommended. 

    David B

     

  8. I recently listed some items in the under £250 section. All unsold so the car parts are now free to collect from Sevenoaks. PM me for details.

    If not collected they will go to the tip. See details posted Aug 27th.

     

    1. TR4A 4J steel wheels.  Gone

    2. TR4A seat frames, runners and diaphragms.

    3. TR6/Stag Gearbox mainshaft. Gone

    4. TR4A Chassis front section for the turrets. Gone

    Must be useful to somebody. Thanks for looking,

    David B

  9. I recently listed some items in the under £250 section. All unsold so the car parts are now free to collect from Sevenoaks. PM me for details.

    If not collected they will go to the tip. See details posted Aug 27th.

     

    1. TR4A 4J steel wheels. Gone

    2. TR4A seat frames, runners and diaphragms.

    3. TR6/Stag Gearbox mainshaft,. Gone

    4. TR4A Chassis front section for the turrets. Gone

    Must be useful to somebody. Thanks for looking,

    David B


  10. Hello, I am about to put up for sale on the  under £250 thread a very cheap (slightly rusty but probably restorable) set of steel wheels and hub covers but need clarification on rim size/model fitting.

    My brain hurts from reading all the conflicting comments on whether tr4a's were fitted with 4 1/2J which I think this set came from. To me though they look like 4J if I am measuring correctly. See photos.  Are these 4J and what TR model can I say they suitable for ??

    Thanks, David B

     

     

    wheelrimsize.jpg

    wheels2.jpg

  11. Paul andChilliman, have only minimal face to grip on. Not sure about a normal puller but thanks anyway. 
     

    Boxobits . I have plenty of old screwdrivers and will make a drift and that’s good advice to grind an angle to match the slanted angle of the drift. I don’t have much to engage on as the outer race was damaged. Only part of the inner end face exists. The outer end has ‘disappeared’ along with the needles. The cage was still there. 

    will use the old lay shaft to line up both bearings when it comes to reassembly. 
    Surprisingly the gears, synchros etc, apart from the main shaft end are in excellent condition.  


    John L , if that fails will try the welding and pull. 
    thanks

    David B
     

  12. Thanks Peter, perhaps you can do that to my next post as well. What format did you change it to? Its come direct off my Iphone.

     

    As for diameter, it's 0.862". Car is a 1966 TR4A probably with its original gearbox.  However, I have a replacement needle bearing coming for the input shaft that it runs in and the usual suppliers only show one type. Part 145008. Are there options here ??? 

    Edit. I now see that the TR6 has two different bearings. I'll watch for that If I get offered a TR6 one. Thanks .

    David B

  13. Hello,

    Gearbox refurb is going well but unsure of how to safely remove old bearings from laygear with damaging the laygear.  The output end already is without needles, (they have disappeared to dust leaving the outer case only.  Have not been successful at pushing out through the bore as there is minimal to push on. Do I just destroy it with a sharp chisel even though it is probably hardened?? Other end is still a full bearing but a similar problem. 

    Thanks, David B

    IMG_2648.HEIC

    Laygear needle bearing.jpg

  14. Hello,

    Have put on a wanted request for a non overdrive main shaft. Mine has suffered at the input end.

     

    But....See Photo. Can this be polished out and salvaged as they are rare and expensive.

    Stripped the GB cos of typical layshaft noise and of course am seeing to that with new shaft and needle bearings but think this could do with some improvement. 

    by the way, this forum was invaluable in provided technical advice for diagnosing the noise fault and help in the strip down. The Buckeye site was also invaluable. 

    Thanks all.Main Shaft..HEIC

    David B

  15.  

    IanC, have been routed to Tony Sheach's eBay site and these extensions by a PM. They look good but have also received the home manufacture extension details by PM so will embark on the homemade route using angle iron and my welder as RogH's post suggested.  

    All, Thanks all for your responses.

    cvtIan, have not been on the forum for some time as my project is nearing completion, just tidying up and reverting to aspects that needed a second go and improvement, ie handbrake. Wasn't aware that Roger H no longer posted but have now read the events and am saddened that he was insulted so publicly after contributing so much to the forum over many years. He helped me lots both to my direct questions and reading his responses to others. I think a more public apology should have been made by the Register Club Officers to endeavour to sort this. Guess it to log ago now.

    David B

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