[Cylinder head]

Hi so I  Took the head to a machine shop they said it was too far gone to just machine they recommended a engineering machine tooling workshop at Havant near Portsmouth called EMP tooling there they showed me round the workshop and the stuff they were doing there was amazing repairing cast iron blocks  with holes in them and aluminium cylinder heads  being drilled out re-bushed  they also do something called laser welding which I’m told is very accurate they were on about cutting a section out of the head replacing it re-welding it in and then it could be machined the cost was approximately  450 - 500  pounds then the faces would have to be machined and prepared as normal so with regards to the cost for me as this is just a spare I think I will just wrap it in oily rag and put it on the shelf for later date if  anyone has problems with broken parts  that need welding  don’t just throw it away because I think the welding technology has moved on so much in recent years he also told me that the welding they did doesn’t generate the heat so you don’t get  The distortion that ordinary welding does .I’m sure these people aren’t the only ones that do this in the country so always worth Enquiring before it  goes in the bin  Kind regards John 

 

[Nylon nuts]

Yes you’re right Peter they are huge I looked on rimmers and it looks like they supply the same smaller nut thanks again John 

[Nylon nuts]

Ok thanks Roger I’ll swap the studs nuts and go with the new hub nuts 

thanks again John 

[Nylon nuts]

Hi all i  have to  replace the nyloc nuts on the rear hubs due to them getting dipped in acid just the nut not the hub any way i bought some new ones 5/8 unf but the socket size is 15/16 where as the  original is over an inch socket I think about inch and 1/8 will this matter .Also while I have your attention when I bolted the hubs onto the trailing arms I used a spring washer and nut should that have been nyloc nuts.By the way I did the studs in the trailing arms used 5/16 unf helicoils as was suggested seams to have worked out ok

regards john

[Trailing arm studs]

Hi all I’ve  just done the  test suggested by Roger starts starting to strip so it’s gonna have to be helicoils many thanks for reply’s will let you know how I get on . John 

[Trailing arm studs]

Thanks roger the length of the helicoil  is it 1.5 d  and thanks for the offer of a jig i  managed to pick one up a little while ago many thanks John 

[Trailing arm studs]

 Hi all been reading a lot about the trailing arm studs/helicoils unf vs unc  A lot of the posts were from seven or eight years ago what is the best solution  i’m thinking UNC  and using Loctite  to hold them in   am I  on the right track or should I just go with 5/16 UNF and use existing studs I’ve  even had one suggestion to leave them alone basically if it’s not broke don’t fix it is it a mod that should be done many thanks John 

[Differential overhaul]

Hi Tim just had mine reconditioned by BP Autos in gosport Hampshire Steve 07772383530 or Ian 07912500075 had new bearings and seals checked gears cleaned and painted cost £250 but that was through a friend of a friend might be worth a call 

[Cylinder head]

Hi mick thanks for your reply the more I look at the corrosion on the manifold face the more I think it’s too far gone will take it to a machine shop and get it assessed 

[Cylinder head]

Hi to all 

I have recently managed to get a engine for my project so I’m looking to sale this head that came with the car only it’s a bit pitted/rusty on the cylinder side and on the manifold side my question is how much can be skimmed off.     Kind regards John and happy new year 

[Grease]

Thanks for reply’s guys regards John 

[Grease]

Hi David thanks for your reply wasn’t sure if there were different quilty grease makes sense to use a higher grade everywhere many thanks John 

[Grease]

Hi to all  can anyone recommend which types of Grease  to use in the  Front hubs  trunnions and steering rack please or should I just go for a multipurpose grease kind regards John 

[Fitting lower wishbone bracket strengtheners]

Hi roger I’ve done this on my bare chassis when I offered up the bumper brackets realised that the front reinforcing plate comes down the face of the chassis to far.on mine will need to cut back and repaint.hope this makes sense. 

Regards John 

[Rebuild]

Thanks Stuart those pictures have helped me make up my mind to will follow suit

[Rebuild]

Hi to all well getting close to the end of summer so I thought I would put some pictures on so you can see what I have been up to .Chassis has been repaired reinforced and sandblasted then painted.started to put some bits on but may change tack go back to the body over the winter simply because the chassis at the moment will stand up against a wall . whichever way I go I have lots to do.

[Engines]

Thanks for your help.its a problem when there are so many parts missing may just bide my time and wait for a 4A block

Many thanks John

[Engines]

Hi to all

Just a question about engine types Ive got to track down an engine for my 4A are the blocks the same on the 4 and the 4A .any help appreciated

Regards John

[Chassis]

Hi to all I did wonder if it’s beyond repair but at this stage to try and save it will cost me a little metal (3mm thick) and some welding gas.if you look at the box sections at the rear they have already been repaired .and to be fair made a good job of it probably stronger than original due to it being about 4mm thick I doubt if there’s any original metal left inside those areas .thats what i got to work with so we’ll see how it turns out and make a decision from there.once the other side is done i will take some more pictures

[Chassis]

Once I got started it just got more and more involved (can of worms)

[Chassis]

Hi to all,i have been working on the chassis for a number of weeks now so I thought I would put some pics on.anyone of a nervous disposition should look away now.

[Diff id]

Thanks for the replys I was looking at Rimmers last night and their tr5/250 recon units begin with RR so i think I might be lucky thanks again for help

[Diff id]

Knowing my luck it's a robin reliant

[Diff id]

Looks like the number has been stamped in by hand

[Diff id]

uHi to all first-time post purchased a incomplete project back tail end of last year was already part striped since then I have managed to strip the rest of the car and removed the body The chassis doesn't look too bad I have a few repairs to do training arm out riggers and reinforcing brackets hoping to do most of the work myself took The diff out looked at The part number begins with RR anyone got any ideas thinking it should be CT at the start anyway I just thought I'd post this and try And put some pictures on if nothing else will give you all a good laugh John