Will
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Posts posted by Will
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Bit of a peeve of mine, but having witnessed horrible burns when a apprentices steel watch band grounded out between a positive battery terminal and the battery strap. But I suppose you could also practice your welding skills with an errant spanner.
I find it interesting that seven posters have said to hell with originally and use a battery with the terminals at the back. Makes sense. Three posters should at least insulate the positive terminals.
Always good to see other owners maintenance and handiwork.
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Rich,
For a bit of work you can just use the amber/clear lenses with the existing housing, There is a slot in the lens for which you can fashion a divider between the white and amber out of aly or plastic. Then obtain a couple of bayonet bulb holders suitable for insertion into a drilled hole in the rear of the white light.
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Maybe a consideration to increase torsional stiffness, and possibly reduce the dreaded derrière droop:
An owner recently mentioned that he had braced between the rear spring tower crossmember and the trailing arm outriggers. (Some also brace between the same crossmember and the diff rear crossmember but not sure if he did this). The forward brace is at roughly 45 degrees, is inboard of the inner wheel arches, and required boxing in the rear shelf front panel sheet metal around the braces. It did not seem to limit seat adjustment, but if taller drivers have managed to get their seat back further it might be an issue. The brace attachments would likely would likely be fairly high stress so doubler plates or gussets might in in order.
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Yep, the LH hose that screws into the 3-way block is sealed by means of a copper washer.
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Rich,
Don't despair! Assuming you have, or have fashioned a clip supporting tool, slacken off forward and rear upper glass guides to give a little room. Then the trick is to place a clip on the tool, then pull up onto the door flange, and while supporting the clip by the tool push the inner seal down into the clip. Hopefully you have a few spare clips in case you drop them inside. At least it’s a nice clean job, and you are not underneath!
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With PU bushes, tightening on the ground should not be necessary as the bush rotates on the spacer, unlike rubber.
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Jochem,
If you wish, why not open the later Caliper holes up and use 1/4” pins.
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I just sliced in the original bulb holders and pigtails. Also better quality.
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John,
There are differences in reduction ratio. The ID Plate number will start with (I think, others may confirm)
Triumph TR6 - 25; Volvo - 27; Healy - 28.
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With reference to the above pic, my lower flap has five female poppers that attach to the retracted hoop when stowed. The side straps are higher up and attach to the upper B Post. Very neat and taught. Is this the original design?
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Well Dave,
Maybe your suspension had not been maintained, and maybe off the road for years?
In my case I don’t know if they were the original trunnions bushings (going on 50 years) or replacements but the sleeves were chromed but worn.
I had no problem removing the trunnions bolts.
I do have reservations about the water seal washers and O rings, particularly the aftermarket ones that are round instead of square making assembly almost impossible.
So I would be willing to try poly without the seals, preferably if I could obtain, or knock up, stainless sleeves.
Suspension on our cars needs regular maintenance, and not just waiting for something to go wrong.
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I think Hawk only make pads for the 1/4” pins. Any issues with opening up TR6 calipers from 3/16” to 1/4”?
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I had to replace a loom as a three foot length was fried behind the dash. Very lucky it did not take out the car.
Fusing the brown wire to the ignition switch has also been a consideration.
In a perfect world positioning the cables so that mechanical damage can be avoided would have merit. However, what of the risks of:
Aged insulation, someone been in there before (very likely) and rodent damage?
I never did find the cause of the short due to the extensive damage. The core itself acted as a fuse, blew, and cut of power from the battery.
A fuse close to the battery should prevent this.... However, while I was testing my new installation thought I would be clever and place a temporary 15amp fuse in the supply to the switch. Well, got smoke, and had to replace the white wire to the voltmeter. Luckily I disconnected the supply before more damage.
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Jochen,
Maybe you still have the grill out? If so, it makes it much easier to access the hinge belts and the forward bonnet can be aligned with it shut.
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Seems to me that there was nothing wrong with the original design which used nylon bushes, water shield washers/o rings AND chromed sleeves. Anyone know if the chromed sleeves are available?
Whatever bushes are installed I would think that at least a stainless sleeve would be prudent rather than the bush rotating on a corroded carbon steel sleeve. So are there any decent kits out there?
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Use 1 inch long Allen screws. Just grind the head diameter down a bit to fit in the holes.
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For a while now many on the North American continent have been aware of this dangerous fuse situation.
I assumed that Europe just had DIN rated fuses like the original Lucas ones. But you now have SAE rated as well? Maybe some importers are bringing the wrong stuff in.
In my case after a full rewire due to a meltdown at the back of the dash my car runs just fine on North American fuses with the following ratings (rather than 35 something’s)
Red fuse 10 amp
Purple 15 amp
Green 15 amp
Spare 15 amp.
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Hi Graeme,
Just down the road from you.
I often read that the suspension should be loaded before torquing up, but that was for rubber bushes that flex, but poly rotates does it not? Don’t wish to get into other issues concerning corrosion ot the steel spacer and wishbone surfaces at this point, but will be interested to hear more on the fully loaded debate.
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I suppose I am a Luddite but have no intention of using Facebook. I already spend significant, but generally not wasted time, on favoured forums. Just heard today that the average Joe in UK checks their I-phone every 12 minutes and spends 24 hours per week online. The only way I would abandon my forums would be if forced to do so either by changing technology or lack of participation.
I just think if I were to venture onto (un)social media I would get even less done in the garage.
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Gareth,
Here’s an example for you and if you provide the measurements to Scott H and go ahead to will be impressed with attentiveness and turn-around:
Original end float .016”
Rear thrust washer measured .085”. Front .089”.
Scott supplied .092 (std) front and .093 rear which brought the end float back to .005”.
No need to measure the end float without the thrust washers to determine the sizes you need.
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Thought I might add a pic. The widest part of the top joint does not compress the foam.
Seem to be posting upside down for some reason.
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Just installed replacement lenses from Rimmer. The top edge of each lense appears to be warped so will not effectively seal against the housing. Anyone else experienced this?
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Front suspension
in General TR Technical
Posted
Tim, you were lucky. Some of the repair kits are incorrectly toleranced and if correctly torqued the joint will lock. When I checked with the supplier he said everyone just backs the nut off until the the joint is free. This is not the right answer!
Those bad kits can be rescued with appropriate shims but suppliers generally just carry on as usual.