cappedup
-
Content Count
36 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by cappedup
-
-
My front right caliper has started to have less effect. Car pulls to the left under braking and the front left wheel gets hot, right stays cold, after a couple of miles.
I assumed either stuck caliper or in serious need of bleeding.
I rigged a clear hose from bleed nipple clamped to top of hood, and dropping into a little container.
Cracked the nipple and pump the brake, keeping an eye on the hose.
All I’m seeing is very fine bubbles. More and more. The more vigorously I pump the pedal the more tiny bubbles come out. To the point it’s nearly foam.
I PtFE taped the nipple to be sure it’s not air being dragged in.
Also a few bigger bubbles rise into the reservoir.
Is my system creating tiny bubbles somehow? -
I’m an idiot.
Finally got around to looking at this issue yesterday.
No fluid in reservoir.
What a fool. Not used to a clutch having any hydraulic parts so didn’t think to inspect it. Just assumed something solid had broken.
Pleased I’m not stripping the car, but annoyed with myself as well.
-
I gave that a quick try. It wouldn't engage 1st easy. And the car was in a slightly tricky position. Didn't want to kangaroo hop my way into the middle of the road.
When the truck was an hour away I decided to sit tight and not make things worse.
-
No advice to offer you on the clutch problem, but I hope the weather is good there and the truck arrives for you soon.
Cheers, Darren
Weather is delightful today. Truck 45 mins away. Not a disaster.
-
Many thanks Roger. Massive help. I'll get some research done and no doubt be back with questions.
-
Hi,
check the easy things first -
Slave cylinder working
Master cylinder working
The lever arm on the cross shaft should be about vertical when the release bearing is touching the diaphragm.
If it goes too far past vertical then the taper pin the release fork could be sheared.
At worst the box needs to come out, labourious but not technically difficult.
Can you handle a spanner and a socket.?
Roger
I'm pretty good with the spanners. Just the language being used needs research. Never played with clutches. in all the crappy manual cars I used to have, the clutches always held up.
Also don't have lifting gear more than trolley jack and axle stands.
But then neither do many other people fixing these things.
-
Thanks James. Does that fit with the clutch gradually fading over a short time?
Sheared pin sounds a bit more like its there, then it's not. But that's me guessing.
-
Currently on the side of the road 10 miles from home waiting for a tow.
Clutch pedal got progressively slacker after about 5 miles, when I decided to turn back I lost it altogether.
Sat waiting for truck reading up on copper washers, thrust guide pins, gearbox out repairs.
I was hoping for a nice easy cable that had slid trough its clamp bolt.
Am I in for a hard time here?
-
-
Yes, Ive emailed them direct, see what they say. Thats my leading contender so far. It looks like it might be a touch tight for a 6"1' fella. The way the upright seems to slant across. I'm hoping for more photos from them. Difficult to tell how far forward it comes.Looks like Boss Frog might be the manufacturer of the Moss bar that is N/A
Will update here.
Thanks for the help guys. Appreciate it.
edit, found some more photos searching around the web. Looks like it could be perfect.
-
Ooh, HN9 in that picture looks interesting. Do we know anyone who has that item fitted? Difficult to tell how it sits and looks. Does the soft top still operate etc.
Thanks Roger.
Chris
-
Thanks for your reply Mark. I drive my car around the state of New York, where pretty much every single other vehicle is 4 times the size of the TR. It can feel intimidating. Ive been driving cars and bikes long enough to know I'm vulnerable.
So, the bar in my second listing is literally a cosmetic item? Without a diagonal I can appreciate how it will parallelogram with a corner force. But are we saying there is no point in spending $600+ on a bit of 2" tube the wrong shape?
The Moss bar is not available, and I cant find a similar looking item. Any clues where I can look?
I fully appreciate the effectiveness of a proper roll over bar, forgive my glib comment which was directed towards the item sold as 'cosmetic'.
-
Are they all sold as cosmetic, because no one will put their name to how they have been fitted? Makes sense.
I can see they are somewhat a 'piece of mind' item, but I'd rather have one in play in a roll over than not.
Seems there are not many options around.
I really like the look of this one, but isn't available - http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=65547&SortOrder=10
This seems to be most common, not available in Moss, but VB have them. http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=162
I'm keeping my eye on EBay and CL.
If anyone has a bar to sell, let me know.
-
Chris, 6.5" weren't standard issue, nor a factory option as far as I know. I had 205s on 5.5" and they were squidgy under hard cornering but terrific under hard braking. On 195s now. Peter
Oops, looks like I made a mistake, I measured my rims from outside to outside, not just inside the rim. If I subtract the probable 1/4" for each side, they will be 6".
-
Here are some shots of them. Michelin Symmetry!!
Aged at 2004 through the DOT code. So they have to go.
-
Ha,
So after a couple of hours reading old posts about tyres, I have the most insane set up possible.
6.5" rims and 215/70 fitted.
I'm actually glad, because I thought I was just going to have to get used to the ridiculous steering weight, and thought the rubbish cornering must have just been a '70's TR thing'.
I don't see a single other poster that has this. One guy on a US board was considering it a few years ago, but didn't do it......
I'm considering just sticking with common old 195/65, knowing there will be loads to choose from.
And having 6'5" rims, i cant really go putting 165mm (6.5") rubber on there.
Were 6.5" rims common in the US, or do I have something odd?
Chris.
-
Chris. I should haves picked a less odd sign in name.....
I haven't looked at that dash top at all, apart from to notice that the vinyl isn't tucked where it should be. I might get to taking it off today.
-
So I just don't have a fuel cut off switch fitted?
Is that like an inertia switch? Go upside down and it shuts the flow?
-
It is too high, you are right. I didn't remove the metal frame. The vinyl has come out of where it is supposed to be at the very ends. The whole dash top seems to be bent up at the ends, I don't know if thats due to heat, or sunlight, or what. The whole thing is very stiff, and I don't think it will easily go back to where it should be.
I was going to take it completely out and see if there was a way to straighten it up a bit. What is it made from, some kind of moulded plastic?
Attached photo with all bulbs working. Very satisfying.
I just used LEDs on the speedo and rev counter, as a test. Think I will be swapping them all over, apart from IGN....
-
Hi,
the numbers look not too bad at all.
You will not get the oil up to temp in just a few minutes so you may find your Idle pressure may drop a little after some spirited driving.
But I wouldn't panic just yet.
Roger
Great, thanks for that Roger.
The hot values listed above were after 30 miles of 'spirited' driving. Had to take the new dash for a test run, make sure it was working right.
I had been reading about folks with 70psi hot, and wasn't sure how low it should go at hot idle.
I'll get around to removing the sump soon enough, check out the pick up tube, pump etc.
Thanks.
-
Here is my switch going back in after doing the dash for reference.
Car is US. And the switch gets pressed upwards for on. i.e. Opposite to a UK light switch.
Hope that helps.
-
Is my oil pressure too low?
From cold 70psi.
Hot, 2000rpm driving 55psi.
Hot, 2000rpm stationary 45psi.
Hot, idle at 750, 20psi.
Guage reacts fast from starting cold, during driving, and turning off.
I have noticed some cloudy stuff on the dipstick when cold, although put that down to repeatedly running engine for only a minute at a time recently. Condensation etc. Should I worry about that and investigate more? Seems to disappear after running. Was considering an oil/filter change even though PO said it was recent anyway.
Fram spin on filter fitted.
New car to me, only driven a few miles.
Read about checking the pressure relief valve. Quick job?
I'm happy there is 'some' oil pressure, and would only really worry if I was dropping to zero ever, but thought I would ask, in case I should be more worried than I am.
Thanks for putting up with a ton of noob questions from me........
-
Finished. So pleased with how it has transformed the interior.
It's a fiddley job getting all the gauges wired and back in place, I'd be twice as quick a second time.
-
Brilliant link. Thanks Roger.
Yes, I read that the ignition bulb must remain filament.
I'm impressed with the little instrument LEDs. Dash going back together today. The difference is great. Photos to follow.
Brake bleeding.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I’m attaching a length of hose to the nipple then raising the nipple up about 5 ft. Attached to the top of the open bonnet.
This makes sure no air isn’t baking sucked back in.
But it that’s not my problem.
Bubbles aside, I removed the caliper, and it’s in a bad way. Ordered two new ones.