Nobbysr
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Posts posted by Nobbysr
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On 11/2/2021 at 12:36 PM, Motorsport Mickey said:
A Draper one arrive 3 days later and was a significantly better device
How bad was your original !
Mick Richards
Hi Mick. a nice vertical crack that opened up under load, a good heave would have broken it the ebay purchase was just the job though
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On 10/20/2021 at 4:53 PM, RogerH said:
Hi Adrian,
did you mean 0.0012" ( one thou and a tiddly bit) or 0.012" Twelve thou.
If the first one - that is very small.
Roger
On 10/26/2021 at 9:30 AM, Nobbysr said:it is interesting though Roger how price v quality does impact on every aspect of maintaining our cars .. I spent £12 on a ring compressor and the ratchet striped after fitting two pistons . Every time I tapped the piston down it would unwind... another weekend gone !. I purchased a Draper unit and it was perfect, £20 more but did the job and good for many more . For me its the amount of time as well as money wasted, all the weekends where i've had to down tools and wait for replacement items . Most of the time i have had my money back but lost loads of weekends.
thanks to every one who has spared the time to reply
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Thanks Peter
Oddly i had the same issue my issue was cheap socket.. but picked up a Brittol one second hand on Ebay
I had a real pain in the proverbial with my ring compressor which slipped the gear ratchet every time i tapped the piston down.. A Draper one arrive 3 days later and was a significantly better device .. you'd have thought that i would realised by now that you get what you pay for
all the best
Steve
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On 10/20/2021 at 2:09 PM, RogerH said:
Hi Steve,
to be fair to Moss they sell both cheap and expensive (quality) both timing chains
I once had a meeting with the top men ad suggested they throw the cheap stuff away and ONLY sell quality.
They said they would go out of business pretty damn quick. Contrary to what people say on here cheap is the order of the day.
If there is no Moss then folk will turn to Ebay.
The new 4 pot cranks are a work of art and cast & rough machined in India - top quality..
You are of course correct, but unfortunately people often want a Rolls for the price of a Mini. in this instance the chain was beyond poor. i often see issues where people replace the chains but not the gears and then have noise issues, the gears should alway be replaced when the chain is .But when you have spent nearly £1000 parts and regrind a £30 chain is cheap. As i mentioned the are good and bad engineering companies in India and i spoke a colleague in India and he spoke to the company and rates the company quite highly
Roger
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. A think you have hit the Nail on the head Andy .. There are some good engineering companies in India and i think the supplier is one .. The chain i fitted is a German one no tight spots and no noise when turning the engine over . The Moss cheap version was garbage in comparison to the German Chain Attached are a couple of photos of the step in the top of the piston ring .. Nothing in the instruction sorry they are not better photos
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Just to follow up ... I checked the liner for cracks and there was an inch crack so its the wine cooler option.. So I striped the engine as i was also concerned that the timing chain felt stiff . The Chain was beyond **** .. Id replaced the crank gear and added a vernier cam gear , so set the valve timing with first to liners fitted and it was a great deal easier to set up. I replaced the timing chain used a heavy duty chain the Moss standard chain was rubbish , used a Racetoration chain tensioner ll went back together really well .
The TR shop quoted £58 plus postage for a liner and Racetorations £48 plus post and vat . Spoke to Daryl about the liner and if it hadnt had the crack they would have used it .
The liner came in a County Motor Vehicle Comp box with made in India by www.atracparts.com who seem to know what they are doing
all the best
Steve
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On 10/3/2021 at 7:01 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
On the chipped liner.
Dye penetration inspection and smooth out the crack edges. Check the piston does not drop lower than the chip If happy maybe fit and forgetThe method i used was to spray the area with red maker dye, wipe with rag and thinners and them dust with talc, worked a treas but next time ill make sure i have the spray indicator !!
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thanks Roger not too worried about balance as its not a rotating mass. I guess when using 89mm liners you have to take into account they are going to be thinner and not to drop em
cheers
steve
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I did think it odd, hence my mentioning it . The 89mm kit came from the TR Shop
I have slightly bigger problem though... picked up the liner for deck measurement and dropped the bloody thing on the engine stand is this still useable .. there are no other signs of crack .. seriously pissed off its going to be one of those days!
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On 9/24/2021 at 1:48 PM, trchris said:
Don't forget to gap the rings
Chris
On 9/24/2021 at 1:48 PM, trchris said:Don't forget to gap the rings
Chris
what is the ring gap for new rings and liners, also noted that one ring, which i assume is the top ring, has small step on the outside
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Many Thanks Adrian that's good enough for me . The shot of the instructions were also very helpful as they were missing from my set of rods
all the best
steve
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very interesting, have just purchased the same set of the same rods ready to fit, looking at the rods its not entirely clear which way they are fitted . Looking at the crank with the engine inverted do the conrod numbers face the n/s or off side of the engine...its not exactly technical but its the easiest to describe it
cheers
Steve
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On 9/24/2021 at 5:12 PM, Adrian Fuller said:
I am fitting maxpeeding rods and have numerous questions
1 Inotice there is no oil way through the rod to the little end bearing I realise this is standard for maxpeed rod but why is it OK?
2 The instalation instructions suggest moly bolt lube on the bolts.. Is this the same as molycoat(see picture)
3 The bolts are 3/8 and the instructions state 45 ft/lbs but then state torque may change depending on application, has anybody fitted these and what torque was used.
Thanks for help in advance
Adrian
Any idea what size sockets are used on the 3/8 ARP bolts ????
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I have a sykes pickavant hydraulic 15mt hub puller and i'm in wallingford if the hubs haven't been off for a while you may even struggle with that. I ended cutting one of the hubs off. I had tried pressing it off with a 100 mt brake press and that sucker wouldn't shift , once i had cut a slot in the hub it came off with a few hits
cheers
Steve
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s
God i like you Guys you are Princes among men will let you know how it goes
all the best
Steve
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Final question i hope.... is the cam installation figure of 103 degrees ATDC or BTDC , assuming a clockwise rotation ???
hopefully that makes sense
cheers
Steve
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That's great thanks for the clarification ... knocked up a pointer at the weekend and have some alloy plate awaiting delivery to make a piston TDC lock
so should be good to go, will send a few pics of the rig
I really appreciate your help it would have been a real challenge without it so thanks again Gents
cheers
Steve
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does that mean you have sold to some one else
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On 7/24/2021 at 10:12 PM, Oddball said:
Sold
Thanks
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That's great news, I really appreciate the help the forum provides, so many thanks to you all. Ian one last question though, is the degree disc secured to the cam so that you can check against movement ??
all
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ll Many Thanks for the information Gentlemen , it had been lurking in my spare boxes till lock down now working well.
k
Kind Regards
Steve
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The liners and pistons i have are marked plus 040 so i guess that the are 87mm . I hadn't really expected the liners to be so good when the engine was stripped. But there is no scoring to the liners and pistons but there is staining. I have been told that a drill powered honing tool would be sufficient to bring the liners back to life as there is virtually no wear to the liners
all the best
Steve
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Am hoping that someone can help me out with this one
Essentially i have the cam lubed up and in the bloc, the Vernier cog is fitted loosely but its the next part I'm checking on, The information from moss is listed below ...
So would be correct in assuming that once i have confirmed TDC, I then advance the crank by 103 degrees at which point the no 1 Inlet valve should be at maximum lift. its worth mentioning that the head off and i do have dial gauges and mag stan .. have got this completely wrong .The crank gear was worn so the gears and chain have been replaced.
Profile: Fast Road
Inlet Timing: 37-63
Exhaust Timing: 73-37
Camshaft Duration: 280˚
Lift: 0.300”
Install Figure: 103˚
Inlet Valve Clearance: 0.022”
Exhaust Valve Clearance: 0.024”
Power Band: 2500-5500
Al;l the best
steve
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Bastuck rear oil seal
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Looking good Adrian have just finished mine will try and run it before it goes in the engine . I has a few alloy components, the front engine plate has a hard plate inserted where the Chain Tensioner sits. I had everything balanced, including the fan and fan extension which should make a difference