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Nobbysr

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Posts posted by Nobbysr

  1. Looking good Adrian   have just finished mine will try and run it before it goes in the engine . I has a few alloy components, the front engine plate has a hard plate inserted where the Chain Tensioner sits. I  had everything balanced, including the fan and fan extension which should make a difference

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  2. On 11/2/2021 at 12:36 PM, Motorsport Mickey said:

    A Draper one arrive 3 days later   and was a significantly better device 
     

    How bad was your original !

    Mick Richards

    Hi Mick. a nice vertical crack that opened up  under load, a good heave would have broken it   the ebay purchase was just the job though

  3. On 10/20/2021 at 4:53 PM, RogerH said:

    Hi Adrian,

     did you mean 0.0012"  ( one thou and a tiddly bit) or 0.012"  Twelve thou.

    If the first one - that is very small.

     

    Roger

     

    On 10/26/2021 at 9:30 AM, Nobbysr said:

    it is interesting though Roger how price v quality does impact on every aspect of maintaining our cars  .. I spent £12 on a ring compressor and the ratchet striped after fitting two pistons . Every time I tapped the piston  down it would unwind... another weekend gone !. I purchased a Draper unit  and it was perfect, £20 more but did the job  and good for many more . For me its the amount of time as well as money wasted, all the weekends where i've had to down tools  and wait for replacement items . Most of the time i have had my money back   but lost loads of weekends.

    thanks to every one who has spared the time to reply 

     

  4. Thanks Peter

    Oddly i had the same issue my issue was cheap socket..  but picked up a Brittol one second hand on Ebay 

    I had a real pain in the proverbial with my ring compressor  which slipped the gear ratchet  every time i tapped the piston down..  A Draper one arrive 3 days later   and was a significantly better device .. you'd have thought that i would realised  by now that you get what you pay for

    all the best 

    Steve

  5. On 10/20/2021 at 2:09 PM, RogerH said:

    Hi Steve,

     to be fair to Moss they sell both cheap and expensive (quality)   both timing chains

    I once had a meeting with the top men ad suggested they throw the cheap stuff away and ONLY sell quality.

    They said they would go out of business pretty damn quick.  Contrary to what people say on here cheap is the order of the day.

    If there is no Moss then folk will turn to Ebay.

    The new 4 pot cranks are a work of art and cast & rough machined in India - top quality..

    You are of course correct,  but unfortunately  people often want a Rolls for the price of a Mini. in this instance  the chain was beyond poor. i often see issues where people replace the chains but not the gears and then have noise issues, the gears should  alway be replaced  when the chain  is  .But when you have spent nearly £1000 parts and  regrind a £30 chain is cheap. As i mentioned the are good and bad engineering companies in India  and i spoke a colleague in India  and he spoke to the company and rates the company quite highly 

    Roger

     

  6. . A think you have hit the Nail on the head Andy .. There are some good engineering companies in India   and i think the supplier is one .. The chain   i fitted is a German one no tight spots and no noise when turning  the engine over . The Moss cheap version  was  garbage in comparison to the German Chain Attached are  a couple of photos of the step in the top of the piston ring .. Nothing in the instruction   sorry they are not better photosIMG_6592.thumb.jpg.4a0b112fc57c70e9074b833c71e4b0f2.jpg

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  7. Just to follow up ... I checked the liner for cracks and there was an inch crack so its the wine cooler option..  So I striped the engine as i was also concerned that the timing chain felt stiff . The Chain was beyond **** .. Id replaced the crank gear and added a vernier cam gear , so set the valve timing   with  first to liners fitted and it was a great deal easier to set up. I replaced the timing chain used a heavy duty chain  the Moss standard chain was rubbish , used a Racetoration chain tensioner  ll went back together really well . 

    The TR shop quoted  £58 plus  postage for a liner and  Racetorations  £48 plus post and vat . Spoke to Daryl  about the liner and if it hadnt  had the crack they would have used it  .

    The liner came in a County Motor Vehicle  Comp box  with made in India  by www.atracparts.com  who seem to know what they are doing 

    all the best 

    Steve

     

  8. On 10/3/2021 at 7:01 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    On the chipped liner. 
    Dye penetration inspection and smooth out the crack edges.  Check the piston does not drop lower than the chip    If happy maybe fit and forget 

    The method i used was to spray the area with red maker dye, wipe with  rag and thinners  and them dust with talc, worked a treas but next time ill make sure i have the spray indicator !!

  9.   I did think it odd, hence my mentioning it . The 89mm kit came from the TR Shop

    I have  slightly bigger problem though...  picked up the liner for deck measurement and dropped the bloody thing on the engine stand   is this still useable  .. there are no other signs of crack .. seriously pissed off its going to be one of those days!

     

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  10. On 9/24/2021 at 1:48 PM, trchris said:

    Don't forget to gap the rings

    Chris

     

    On 9/24/2021 at 1:48 PM, trchris said:

    Don't forget to gap the rings

    Chris

    what is the ring gap for new rings and liners, also noted that one ring, which i assume  is the top ring, has small step on the outside

  11. very interesting, have just purchased the same set of the same rods ready to fit,   looking at the rods its not entirely clear which way they  are fitted  . Looking  at the crank with the engine inverted do the  conrod  numbers face the n/s or off side of the engine...its  not exactly technical but its the easiest to describe it  

    cheers 

    Steve

  12. On 9/24/2021 at 5:12 PM, Adrian Fuller said:

    1632499907588.thumb.jpg.935a63ab3e97c8354a37ee94dfd46f96.jpgHi all

     

    I am fitting maxpeeding rods and have numerous questions

    1 Inotice there is no oil way through the rod to the little end bearing I realise this is standard for maxpeed rod but why is it OK? 

     

    2 The instalation instructions suggest moly bolt lube on the bolts.. Is this the same as molycoat(see picture) 

    3 The bolts are 3/8 and the instructions state 45 ft/lbs but then state torque may change depending on application, has anybody fitted these and what torque was used. 

    Thanks for help in advance

    Adrian

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    Any idea what size sockets are used on the 3/8  ARP bolts ????

  13. I have a sykes pickavant hydraulic 15mt  hub puller  and i'm in wallingford  if the hubs haven't been off for a while   you may even struggle with that. I ended cutting   one of the hubs off.  I had tried pressing it off with a 100 mt brake press  and that sucker wouldn't shift , once i had cut a slot  in the hub  it came off with a few hits 

    cheers 

    Steve

  14. thumbnail_IMG_5158.thumb.jpg.4c46ad6f92be43e26da571d94fd2c924.jpgThat's great  thanks for the clarification  ... knocked up a pointer at the weekend   and have some alloy plate awaiting delivery  to make a piston TDC lock

    so should be good to go, will send a few pics of the rig

    I  really appreciate  your help it would have been a real challenge without it  so thanks again Gents 

    cheers

    Steve

  15. The liners and pistons i have are marked plus 040  so i guess that the are 87mm  . I hadn't really expected the liners to be so good when the engine was stripped. But there is no scoring to the liners and pistons but there is staining. I have been told that a drill powered honing tool would be sufficient to bring the liners  back to life as there is virtually no wear to the liners

    all the best 

    Steve

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  16. Am hoping that someone can help me out with this one 

    Essentially i have the cam lubed up and in the  bloc, the Vernier cog is fitted loosely   but  its the next part I'm checking on, The information  from moss is listed below ...

    So would be correct in assuming  that once i have confirmed TDC, I then  advance the crank by 103 degrees at which point the no 1 Inlet valve  should be at maximum lift. its worth mentioning that the head off and i do have dial gauges and mag stan ..   have  got this completely wrong .The crank gear was worn so the gears and chain have been replaced.

     

    Profile: Fast Road

    Inlet Timing: 37-63

    Exhaust Timing: 73-37

    Camshaft Duration: 280˚

    Lift: 0.300”

    Install Figure: 103˚

    Inlet Valve Clearance: 0.022”

    Exhaust Valve Clearance: 0.024”

    Power Band: 2500-5500

     

    Al;l the best

    steve

  17. Hi Everyone , have just finished rebuilding a speedo but can anyone help me to identify it . I do have different  bezels   and the glass is domed . Could anyone please throw some light on to what vehicle its off

    Cheers

    steve

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