Nobbysr
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Posts posted by Nobbysr
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Thanks Peter i would have thought that the shorter one wouldn't have worked, but i guess that the clutch adjustment could have taken up the the slack..... does that sound feasible .. The clutch was one of the things that actually OK, especially given the fact that cross shaft bushes were also fitted incorrectly and the shaft weakened
all the best
Steve
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On 9/22/2022 at 3:24 PM, RogerH said:
You could also consider heat shrink sleeve along the prop/rod if it touches other areas
Roger
That's a dam fine idea Roger !
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It does look look like it was thrown together I believe this what a 4 synchro should look like
Oddly enough when i took everything apart on mine I found the gear box case is a Triumph Saloon, 4 synchro with the correct overdrive it had a diaphragm clutch cover 8 1/2inch pate but the shorter throw out sleeve, the clutch was fairly good with no signs of slipping. The overdrive is a triumph 2.5 with a Tr4 rear casing
I have bought the longer throw out sleeve ready to fit but i'm a it concerned now that should i go back to the original sleeve Top cover has the dipstick and and all of the isolator switches the balls springs etc have been replaced in the selector housing
By the way thanks for your help with the parts Tom much appreciated
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Hi Roger I do have the type of copper rivets you are looking for but i will needs to check the size, these rivets are often sold by leather and and saddlery companies/ I use them for making knife sheaths and belts but will need to check i have a feeling they may be 3/16 and 1/4
but ill check
cheers
steve
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if you have doubts on the operating temperature you use these https://www.testo.com/en-UK/products/temperature-measuring-strips i have used them during engine trials and they are good for an indicative reading , as long as the surface is clean they stick ok , i normally use brake cleaner on the surface and we have been able to detect bearing issues without the use of an infrared spot temperature device .. i'm sure someone must have used them before but just in case
Im putting together a gear oil comparison document which is a quick comparison of the physical properties of each make, viscosity and type of gear oil and engine oils so if anyone has product suggestion, i can see if i can locate the technical data and then share the document i have some data from my time in Castrol & BP but its been a few years since my automotive days so just let me know the product name and ill see what vi can do . It will then be possible to compare viscosity of multigrade gear oil v Mono v Engine oils mono and multigrade
cheers
Steve
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Thanks everyone helpful stuff i used a Thackery washer and a stainless clevis pin and thin stainless washers , it keeps the prop under a little pressure but allows some flexing but stops the rattle, Moss sell them but cant recall the part number
cheer
Steve
On 9/13/2022 at 6:52 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:Dzus brackets in wings
Stainless steel caps on mine.
I made the bonnet buffers using a stainless Cheese head screw with a reduced head diameter .. a really pleasing mod after spending ages getting to old ones out will dig out the photos
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On 6/30/2022 at 9:31 PM, tim hunt said:
Fond memories of obtaining Potassiumm Permanganate (from a Chemist's shop, no questions asked) and Magnesium Powder (from a photograpic equipment supplier) mixing equal quantities and setting off the mixture using a suitable length of Jetex fuse.
Tim
and a certain fertilizer and diesel demonstrated by a farmer removing a fox den plus a trick with glow plug fuel ..pm for info
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If any one is looking for an alternative
i fitted an anti-run on valve to my GT6. it was an MG part no. the numbers below are Moss UK number
valve, anti run on
ADU9535
Anti-Run On Valve
STN127Z
Both of these can be used, I originally used an overdrive solenoid which closed the seal when the ignition came on and opened when the ignition switched off on a timer for five seconds, so you would need a relay and a timer it worked extremely well and the only mod was a hose connector drilled and tapped into the inlet manifold
The attached pic is very similar to my set up
hope it helps
Steve
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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Body colour I think is original. I had all the parts of mine satin black powder coated and after 7 years they still look good.
cheers
Peter Wmany thanks Peter
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hi Bob
Will Check mine and will let you know, but can you let me know what the wood is
ll the best
Steve
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Hi Folks
A quick question should the bonnet catch be Zinc plated or painted . I does look nice painted but i can see its going to get scratched with use
Many Thanks
Steve
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On 9/8/2022 at 1:58 PM, Ralph Whitaker said:
You obviously have a greater knowledge of the subject than I. What I take from the above is that you are saying that the problem with additives attacking brass/bronze items is historical, and that it will not happen now with current oils, and that GL5 is perfectly acceptable, as are all EP Hypoy oils. Is this correct or have I not understood correctly?
Ralph
Hi Ralph
That's pretty much the case, we used to see similar problems with Phosphor Bronze bushes pitting but i haven't seen any issues for many years now however most of the products i have looked at are from the Oil majors, Castrol, Shell, Mobil etc Some small blenders do buy cheaper additive packs and cheaper base oil so I have alway stuck with what i trust . Must of the oil companies i have worked for have their own test beds but also use data from Ricardo Eng and testing completed by additive companies such as Infinium, Lubrizol and others. Attadive companies do sell low spec off the shelf additive packs formulated for more basic requirement in market in Asia but some will often find their way into the UK market via local blenders, primarily due to price
The issue of thickness or viscosity of the oil is a little complicated but the W refers to Winter performance but the most important factor is the Viscosity (thickness) at 40 Celsius and 100 C although the oil reduction is not linear, the Pour Point is also important as is the Viscosity Index as i have put together a comparison chart which should give an idea of the typical figure. The base oils used are mostly Paraffinic Mineral oils and wax as they get colder so additives such bas Pour Point Suppressants are used, synthetic oils have a much broader temperature range
Some of the antiwear and EP dont start to work until at higher temperature which where some of the significant wear takes place .Manufacturers often use gear oils with chemically active EP additives that cope with running in after which time you move to a hand book oil. I have just noticed that someone in the US is now selling steel synchro cones with a carbon lining which should, if claim are to be believed, improve shifting .. However I prefer Phosphor Bronze gearbox bushes rather than steel as they to be kinder to the more expensive components if oil runs low or out
GL-4 oils are formulated to cope with Spiral Bevel and hypoid gears for moderate speeds and loads, with exception of LSD applications., but GL-4 oils can be use in manual gearboxes and transaxles. But some of these oils have added antioxidants and other components to cope with wet brake application in agricultural vehicle. its worth noting that much of the test equipment for this specification is no longer available. So suppliers will have to purchase known technology additive or read across additive performance which is not always accurate!!! However i would suggest that GL-4 spec oils are considered for General Tr Driving gearbox's and GL-5 for axles
GL-5- oils are formulated to cope with high speed hypoid and high torque applications but it was mainly driven by the US MIL-L-2105C specification, they are also compatible with the latest Viton and Nitrile seals . These oils also meet SAE J2360, which cover elastomer seal swell, Oxidation (thichening) and Detergency (Cleanliness) the idea being that any insolubles are held in suspension and not deposited in the gearbox but changing the oil is important
These oil also have meet many specific manufacturers specs and some will need to meet ZF, some Merc some VW etc and the additives useds may not be miscible or compatible which is why there are a number of the same viscosity gear oils.
I haven't seen or heard or anything that would cause overdrive wet clutch problems or experienced any issues myself but the linings available today should compatible with todays oil and i have used Semi synthetic and mineral 75w/90 gear oil which does make gear changes easier at lower temperature (see attachment)
There is a case for stating that a GL-5 oil is paying for performance not required in a TR box but a GL-5 oil does help protect the gears and the O/D unidirectional clutch and be worth considering for competition uses but that as requires consideration as to what issue is trying to be resolved
, Some engine oils can be be used in gearbox applications as they have Anti-Wear additives but they lack the the load carrying properties of the gear oils but it can be argued TR boxes don't require that level of protection but to me anything that extends the life of the gearbox should o be considered.
I have attached something which will show how multigrade gear oils viscosities compare with mono grades i can add specific makers products if people let me know and ill try and do the same for engine oils
hope this is of some interest and hopefully not to wordy
Steve
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On 8/21/2021 at 9:27 AM, DavidBee said:
The Gulf lubrication chart is available for download in the Bonanza Collection of reference articles and books in this same section (General Technical).
David
I know first hand that Gulf Oil International haven't been approached for permission to use branded documents In Europe and Asia, copy write in the US is still under discussion
steve
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Some background on gear oils
An sae 30 oil is roughly the same viscosity as an 80w-85w gear oil, the current additive technology for a branded oil API GL-4/GL-5 will not compromise the clutch material in an overdrive but will improve gear performance and bearing life . There used to be issues with some of the active Sulphur additives and brass/bronze gears/material and some of the E.P additives but again that's really old technology. Companies such as Shell, Castrol, Exxon Mobil, BP etc have moved away from these additive technologies. I have uses an 75w/90 gear oil in my 3A for the past 20 yrs with no issues but
Also its worth noting that the "W " in the spec refers to the Winter viscosity, which has to be within certain parameters, which for say an 85w is 500 cSt at -12 C. the other important aspect is also the viscosity at 100 C. Essentially the viscosity of all oils reduces as the oil get hot, so the viscosity at 100 is important in gear oils The other factors which also impact on performance is the additive technology and base oils.
Some engine oils do contain some gear oil performance but that depend specs as engines re formulated to deal with the environment within an engine, as we know there is some gears present in the engine but the load is much lower than in a gear box ..Some engine oils are formulated to cope with gears and they tend to use specs such as FZG and 4 ball tests .. hopefully this makes sense, i happy to share my industry knowledge if any one want message me
On 2/21/2022 at 7:13 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:I had a similar problem with my O/D which was caused by the lever under the solenoid slipping on the operating shaft so it was not fully opening the overdrive valve.
The procedure given in the workshop manual for setting does not always work on older units due to wear, and I found with mine that using the setting hole and a rod would not work. I had to advance the operating lever a fraction and it works fine now.
Also they seem to work best with SAE30 rather than SAE90 oil, and definately do not use HYPOID oils
Ralph
On 8/2/2022 at 6:40 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:Just going by what Laycock, and now Overdrive Services, reccomend. I originally put in Hypoy 90,which Triumph themselves advised for the TR4, but then noticed that for the TR2/3 they were recomending Castrol GTX. After discussions on this site I changed to Morris Oils GB30 and found that the syncromesh worked better and the overdrive operation was sharper.
Ralph
Hi Ralph the reduction in viscosity would help with shifting as an sae 30 oil about is the same viscosity as an 80w to 85w so the thought process is correct its one of the reasons O/D operation can be sluggish in the the depths of winter
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re LED headlight bulbs i purchased the items listed below from Ebay, Bob may remember our discussion , they are a direct replacement for the standard bulb but i'm told the difference is night and day. I have yet to fit them as im still into bodywork, but the Seller has had them fitted to an MG Magnette, with tripods headlights for 2 years and swears by them, which i guess you would expect.
They do fit inside the headlights with no issues, i have at least gotten that far
P36D BPF LED Headlight bulb WARM/COOL WHITE 5-30v Dual Polarity 50/60's classics
hope that helps
Steve
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On 2/21/2022 at 7:13 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:
I had a similar problem with my O/D which was caused by the lever under the solenoid slipping on the operating shaft so it was not fully opening the overdrive valve.
The procedure given in the workshop manual for setting does not always work on older units due to wear, and I found with mine that using the setting hole and a rod would not work. I had to advance the operating lever a fraction and it works fine now.
Also they seem to work best with SAE30 rather than SAE90 oil, and definately do not use HYPOID oils
Ralph
i'm curious why no hypoid oils, have you had issues ???
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On 8/13/2022 at 9:18 AM, RogerH said:
Hi David,
have you delved into the Top Cover workings before.?
There is a sequence you need to follow to dismantle the interlock.
If you need help then come back on here.
Roger
hi Roger is the process you are referring the one in the workshop manual ??
all the best
Steve
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I have Moss variant which will put up for sale i a couple of weeks and all their sumps have posts with threaded hole in no idea what they are for and Moss couldn't enlighten me . I have milled the offending post down so that it can be used with the latest oil pumps, the original pump fits no problem but the pumps now sold have a larger endcap .The recommendation from Moss was " yeh we get that alot, you have cut the bit off where the oil pump hits " very informative !
The other thing i've done is to sand back the internal surface of the sump so there is no where for any insolubles to collect as the casting were very rough. Once the oils detergency and dispersants start to deplete the more likely depositing will occur, so the smoother the surface the better the drain.. I also corrected a couple of minor issues with the gasket faces . With so many aftermarket parts these days you have to check everything before fitting . I also noted the fitting kits contain set screws and not bolts ?
As far as i can find out Moss & Trshop along with a few others purchase from the same source . The sump i have fitted isn't , (i obtained both in garage sale with only the moss receipt) and as far as I can find out, is a Racetoration sump and is pretty good it is
hope that helps
Steve
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On 8/31/2022 at 12:16 PM, stuart said:
See above top image for a left hand drive one, a Right hand drive one doesnt had the crank to one side and is straight.
Stuart.
Thx Stuart If that's the case i think i may have one , will dig it out and send a photo
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Hi Stuart
Do have a picture of the bracket ?? would be really interested to see what it should look like
all the best
Steve
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On 2/21/2022 at 7:13 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:
I had a similar problem with my O/D which was caused by the lever under the solenoid slipping on the operating shaft so it was not fully opening the overdrive valve.
The procedure given in the workshop manual for setting does not always work on older units due to wear, and I found with mine that using the setting hole and a rod would not work. I had to advance the operating lever a fraction and it works fine now.
Also they seem to work best with SAE30 rather than SAE90 oil, and definately do not use HYPOID oils
Ralph
Hi Ralph , curious about your comment re Hypoid oils , have been using 75w/90 oil for over 25 year with no issues, i am familiar with the formulation of a number of Shell/Castrol and BP gear oil so interested in your view
all the best
Steve
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On 7/28/2022 at 7:09 AM, Ian Vincent said:
Painting over zinc passivated surfaces shouldn’t be a problem, the zinc helps prolong the life of the paint coating. It’s painting on pure zinc (I.e. galvanising) that can be a problem.
Rgds Ian
Hi Stuart, whats the make of the seal you use, as I find the current aftermarket seals too thick
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On 7/28/2022 at 7:09 AM, Ian Vincent said:
Painting over zinc passivated surfaces shouldn’t be a problem, the zinc helps prolong the life of the paint coating. It’s painting on pure zinc (I.e. galvanising) that can be a problem.
Rgds Ian
hi Ian The passivator commonly used with Zinc fittings helps resist corrosion as well as look nice, many paints rely on etch properties which are resisted by the passivator .. any fixings and clips we sold (my old company)to the car industry, that were to be painted, were never passivated as the finish wouldn't be seen . that's not to say you cant paint it, just an either or scenario... hopefully this makes sense
ll the best Steve
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Interesting approach Peter
Replacement items would have all have to be painted if warranty work had to be carried out ..I do know that many item were Zinc Passivated which doesn't make sense if they were painted . as the passivation process improves the corrosion resistance and wasn't a good base for paint.. it also looked better than plain zinc . I was lucky enough to do my toolmaking apprenticeship with an automotive component company which had Cadmium and Zinc Plating baths but sadly discontinued Chrome and Silver 4 years before i joined.
Did the dealerships have to repaint wing bolts, Apron bolts etc when they carried out warranty work or just leave them chipped ???... it would have been a nightmare .. In the 80's i worked for Unipart which i think was when we first met at C& B .. I visited many dealerships, amd most still had their works Triumph Churchill tool sets, many items never having been used . and most sold for Scrap in the late 80s and early 90's
I think will I go unpainted bolts and fittings as it make repair/.maintenance a bit more practical
cheers
Steve
Windscreen Washer
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
have been trying to secure the correct screen washer pump knob for mine. It currently sports a cream Tudor knob which looks kind of odd
all the best
Steve