Nobbysr
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Posts posted by Nobbysr
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On 10/22/2023 at 12:16 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
My understanding is
The EB plate changed size as the number got bigger. EB number sequence was not a constant value away from the TS number.
The factory build number plate remains the same size looking at the few I have.
Who has number 1000000? Late 1959?Yes attached by screws not rivets.
its interesting that screws were used as it suggest that the numbers were to be removed or easily swapped at some stage??
On 10/23/2023 at 4:03 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:In
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14 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Thanks for that.
Here is the extract you refer to
Thats the one Peter, im assuming its correct??? its a useful document if an owner is trying to build a TR to original spec or use excepable mods was a bit weighty for a first read
cheers
steve
Interesting debate , I have done the usual web checks and it seems that the EB number was painted and at the topwith the other number below but there was a load with both numbers polished
I found the attached judging guide from the US which has a section on the engine bay and they refer to the EB number as painted and above the chassis number which is left brass
hopefully the PDF will send ok
cheers
Steve
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Interesting debate , I have done the usual web checks and it seems that the EB number was painted and at the topwith the other number below but there was a load with both numbers polished
I found the attached judging guide from the US which has a section on the engine bay and they refer to the EB number as painted and above the chassis number which is left brass
hopefully the PDF will send ok
cheers
Steve
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Does anyone have a photo of the plates in situe as my battery box has been replaced . I heard somewhere that the EB plate was originally painted and the body number left in the brass finish , is that correct???
many thnks
Steve
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I think Bobs view makes sense as the holes do fit a spring captive nut. I have been speaking to a few people over the months and it apears that some cars didnt have square holes in that location, some cars had two on the drivers side and some cars four ??
Common practice when pressing panels is to carry out pierce and blanking operation first and then use any convient holes to locate the piece for the forming opperation either way its been interesting seeing the comments
cheers
steve
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Interesting John , I would have thought they would have used round holes as it would have cheaper and easier to make plus better to seal .However they are in such odd place, either side of the pedal apperture on both sides of the car which is very strange
cheers
Steve
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Hi Bob its an odd one as it looks to be produce by a press piercing tool and would have added additional cost .. Would they have been to fit a type of servo ??? clutching at straws here .
cheers
Steve
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G'day Everyone
Hope you can help with identifying some square holes in the bulkhead on my TR3A there are 2 holes each side with one either side of where the master cylinders sit, so would be gratefull for any ideas you may have, cant see any logical reason for their presance ??
All the best
Steve
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On 6/1/2022 at 1:15 PM, John McCormack said:
My gearbox packed up in the mid 1990s. The people who overhauled it said a contributing factor was that it had been filled with hypoid EP90 diff oil. I'd had the car serviced for a few years by a local garage when I was based on a Navy base with nowhere to work on the car myself.
I'm not too knowledgeable on oils and their qualities but, on the recommendation of those who do know, I now use a GL4 oil (Castrol VMX80) and previously a Castrol 25-50 engine oil. No problems with the box or overdrive since that overhaul way back in 1995, and well over 100,000 miles.
essentially all oils lose viscosity as they get hot and sae30 egine oil is about the same viscosity as an 85w gear oil at ambient temp(see Chart) howver diffferent types of oils will thicken at different viscosities as the oil gets cold. So a 10w/40 engine oil will circulate round an engine quicker that a 20w/50 especially on a cold winter morning
An engine oil contains addatives to neutralise acids formed during combustion (BN), Detergents which keep the engine clean and Dispersants to hold the particulates in suspension which allows the filter to remove debris and allow the particulates to be removed during an oil change. There are other addatives such as anti-wear, anti-scuff, viscosity improvers, ant-oxidants etc. The base oils used in engine oils also vary in quality as do addative packs and approvals . Some Lubricants Blenders claim approval that their oils have never been tested to including API
Gear oils have to cope with oil molecular shearing which causes some loss of viscosity, exterme pressure loading , scuffing and preventing metal to metal wear, so they will be subjected to gear specific test such a 4 ball antiwear and micro oxidation tests . There are claims that Sulpur Phospherous EP addatives gear cause problems with overdive brake linnings and can cause pitting in bronze/brass material but todays active Sulphur EP addatives are pretty benign an i would rather have ep protecton in the sprag clutch and various bearings
But please be aware that oil addatives deplete during use so extending the life of the oil is false eccomomy. if you would like additional oils added to the spread sheets just let me know and I'll load the technical data.. Have tried not throw too much data in this post but if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to answer them.
hope this helps
Steve
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Originally Engine oils were specified beacuse they had good Detergency and Dispercentcy as well as multigrade performance (less drag at lower temperature) However ive used API -GL4 and API-GL5, 80w90 and laterly 75w90 Gear oils as have better load carrying properties than engine oils and now with wide multigrade gear oil the oils are less viscous when cold they dont lose as much viscosity when hot . I've beeen using them for 30 years with no issues but as i dont drive the car in winter now so I stick with an 80w90 gear oil
Its worth mentioning that smaller lubricants companies buy in base oils and purchase addative packs to a spec/price, simply because of the cost of engine testing that they would be required to complete to claim the various specs ..I think its around $250K just to be a member of API, plus ACEA testing along with all the various OEM testing, and ..There are a number of Addative Companies that supply blenders with addative (lubrizol, Paramins, Infinium to name a few) supply Blenders . However the premium performance addative packs tend to be reserved for comapanies such as BP, Shell, Castrol, Exxon etc who are chasing initial fill contracts ... The quality of base oils is also important and the quality of both addative and base oils affect the performance of the finished product . I prepared a couple of spread sheets for one of the US forum and can add Penrite to them if the technical data is availble . There has been a great deal of spurious data surounding the use of gears oils especialy where the O/D is concened for example some friction modifiers and e.p adadtive requre increase in surface temp before they activate and these have been aledged to have cause O/D but there is not test evidence to support it
all the best
Steve
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I have a TR Speedo reset rod for sale, its a new part and includes the small locating screw to attach it to the speedo Price is £25 including postage
please contact me on 07768508311 , email is srwarren77@hotmail.com please call first though
regards
Steve
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I have for sale a New Old Stock Moss Aluminium Sump plus fitting kit . The sump has been been used but has also been modified to take the latest Oil Pump as as well as the OEM pump . The fitting kit is bolts and washers required to fit . The baffle plate has a couple of minor storage dents but will fit with no problems Price is £225 which includes shipping. It was one two that i purchased and turns out to be the best one
I can be reached on 07768508311 and my email is srwarren77@hotmail.com but please phone firs
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I have for sale a New Old Stock TR2/3/4 heavy duty timing chain and crankshaft gear for the 4 cylinder TR engine Price is £45 which is almost half the new price that includes postage as well . i can be reached on 07768508311 , email is srwarren77@hotmail.com but best to call me first
cheers
Steve
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Thanks Peter , assuming that 110 ATDC no1 inlet is at maximum lift ??? or i could set tdc and no1 inlet and exhaust should be the height ??? Sorry for being a bit thick, but i did make the mistake on my other engine of setting no1 on the exhaust rather than the inlet (thanks for the heads up on that one)
appriciate you help
many thanbks
Steve
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hi Folks
While i am looking at a fast cam in my user I am also re- building an engine up with a standard cam, so could you help with the timing set up for that , the head is off and the crank journls are fine and the liners and rings replaced, so once the cranks back in with new bearings i need to set up the cam timing
all the best
Steve
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Hi Peter
attached is said item, i have reconditioned it but the originial wiper switch was broken when i bought the car ... Alan T has helpes me out with an alternative but clearly i would like the wiring done properly if i can
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G'day Folks
Looking for some advice on who to talk to about a replcement loom for my 3A , i have few extras that i need to accomodate, including 2speed wipers can anyone reccomend a company that would be able to help?? Have read historical posts but but i was wondering if anyone had recent experince
all the best
Steve
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On 5/20/2023 at 9:56 PM, Lebro said:
Not sure about Alfins, but with standard drums I had assumed this for a while until I noticed that the holes which the wheel studs go through are somewhat larger that the wheel stud diameter, so without the two locating screws the drum could easily be not centralised. It's true that once the when nuts are tightened the screws are doing nothing further.
Bob
pretty much on the money Bob lthough there is a different style with the fins in line with the brake hub but they secure the same way with two scres
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Interesting, my angle drive is a nice fit and uses a shorter speedo cable which does fit nicely behind the rubber gaiter. The cable is too short to reach without the angle drive. I do service mine every 4 or 5 years with a clean and a regrease after years of experiance with them running GT6s . The newer iangle drives dont have the peened cover so its possible to service it and repair if the cable end comes adrift .
The gearbox i have is a triumph 2.5 casing and the overdrive is triumph 2.5, the gears seem to match tr4a and i have up rated some parts when i rebuiult the box 18 months ago.
I am guessing that over the years there have been a number of Manual to Overdrive converstions with later TR boxes/Saloon boxes, fitted with O/Ds with angle drives. Never occoured to me that the side screen works manauals dont detail their use for sidescreen cars ... learn something every day
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Interesting Bob , did they not fit them as standard.??/ My 3A certainly has one and i repaired a few O/D boxes that have all had angle drives ????
cheers
Steve
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Interesting Bob , did they not fit them as standard.??/ My 3A certainly has one and i repaired a few O/D boxes that have all had angle drives ????
cheers
Steve
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Hi Oliver
You should be OK once the angle drive is fitted to the brass fitting , im guessing that you might not be aware that you need one , if you dont have one they are available new at i think about £150
cheers
Steve
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Depending on what size your liners will depend on how hard you can hit them, attached is an example of what happens to an 89mm liner.. they don't bounce
Annoyingly i had purchased the 89mm kit well before stripping the engine,. When i did finally strip the engine I found the existing 87mm liners, piston, rings etc were in very good condition with all the honing lines clearly visible, so they will go up for sale soon.
Also a descent engine builder could bore your liners in situ so long as they dont move, but clearly its better to remove them . If the block is cleaned in a hogwash tank you may find the expansion is enough to allow the liners to be coaxed out
cheers
Steve
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hi Christian
Yes I have discovered that, Oddly enough the MGA button (Top)fits the pump i have, so at least all of the knobs are the same colour
The Tudor pump is offered as reproduction by Moss https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/washer-pump-windscreen-with-knob-27h9624.html?assoc=611389 which should fit a TR .. it would nice if someone could remanufacture the TR knob though
cheers
Steve
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3a engine figure of 8 gaskets
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Good advice Roger