Dave Herrod
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Posts posted by Dave Herrod
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Graham, that is indeed the route I would follow if the pipe were long enough. Thanks for the photo. Dave.
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I spent Sunday afternoon fitting an Automec brake pipe kit. Most of the pipes were a close approximation to what was needed with the exception of the pipe from the three way union on the rear axle to the rear right side wheel cylinder. To follow the prescribed route I reckon I need a pipe about 50cm long whereas the one supplied was only 43cm.
Automec, to their credit, are willing to send me a longer pipe, but pointed out that they had been supplying the kit for over 25 years. Before I make a fool of myself, does anyone happen to know (or could easily measure) the correct length.
Dave
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As one has zero resistance in one direction and is, at times, almost impossible to move in the other ditection , and the other is the exact opposite, I have concluded that they can both go back whence they came. I will see if Stevson can make anything of my collection of leaky worn units. Thanks for the replies. Dave.
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Hi Roger,
That is very interesting. I had always thought that they were intended to work in both directions and I believe the manual alludes to this. I will check later as car, shocks and manual are at the lock up.
D.
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I have finally got time to get back to putting the TR back together.
Having been told that they are made on the original machines, I decided that I would take up one of the suppliers offer on a pair of rear shock absorbers. However, having stood them upright for a few days and worked the lever up and down literally dozens of times I still get no resistance in one direction and can barely move the thing in the other. Having delved a little deeper I found that both shock absorbers are over filled and one of the cover fitting screws is a self tapper which makes me question the quality.
Am I missing something in preparing these for use?
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Alan,
That is looking great - well done. It makes mine still look years away.
I really will try to get over and say hello next time I'm in Dordognshire.
Keep up the good work.
Dave
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John, that would be very useful as I don't actually have any detailed instructions
Dave
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Thanks for the replies so far. The seal is the split type which requires the scroll to be removed and sits in an aluminium carrier which replaces the original. No instructions received, but I believe it is the standard offering of, say, 5 years ago. I found details of the bearing cap drilling in an old post, but noted on Macey's garage website that they no longer consider it necessary. I wondered if anyone had experience of fitting one of these successfully without drilling the extra holes?
Dave
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I have finally got round to rebuilding an engine that I bought in bits several years ago. The crankshaft has been machined to take the replacement split oil seal.
I have seen instructions which suggest that the rear bearing cap should be drilled to improve flow away from the seal whereas others suggest that it is not necessary. Any views gratefully received before I reach for the drill bits. Dave.
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Peter,
Which Cobra seats did you use? I would be very interested in seeing a picture of them.
Without wanting to stray too far from the original post, has anyone looked at MG(T) F seats with a view to fitting them into a sidescreen car? In their original set up they were very high, but I understand that this was all to do with the shape of the floor pan and not the seats themselves.
Dave
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John, it looks fantastic. I did think for a minute that you had finished one of the many projects that you showed us in your barn!
Dave
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Thanks Peter,
I raised the issue again because the trunnions I have bought appeared to be loose as opposed to the general problem discussed in the previous post of them all being too tight. The fact that what was supposed to be an NOS trunnion and V post also exhibited a degree of play made me wonder how good a fit to expect. You have now answered that and it's clealy time to try and find another pair.
Dave
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No advice?
what have I said?
Dave
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Apologies for raising this issue again, but I would be grateful for some advice as it seems that I have a pair of trunnions with the oposite problem to that discussed previously and don't know whether it is worth fitting them.
On inspecting the trunnions from my car before putting the suspension back together, I noted that the pins on both were badly pitted and corroded and, even with a good clean up, were really not going to work particularly well. As I was going to be nearby, I called into the TR shop to pick up a new pair the other day.
In light of all of the discussion, I wanted to check that the trunnions fitted the vertical link whilst still at the shop. Using a NOS stanpart link, the new trunnions ran up the thread very easily but there was discernable play, in as much as you could feel the trunnion rocking on the VL. Not good, thought I, but I didn't really know how much movement is to be expected. Clealy, given the pitch of the thread and the fact that it isn't screwed up tight in the way that a nut and bolt, for example, would be, there must be some relative movement between the two parts. In an attempt to shed some light on the issue, we tried the same exercise with the same NOS link and a NOS trunnion that they had. This too exhibited some play. I should add that this post is, in no way, intended as a criticism of the TR shop, who were very accommodating and eager to help find the right solution.
Can anyone comment on how much relative movement between a trunnion and link can be expected. One of the ones off my car felt pretty solid whereas the other had more movement, albeit less than the ones I looked at today. Obviously, the ones off the car are full of grease whereas today's specimins were dry.
I note that Revingtons advertise the trunnion pin as a separate part. Does anyone have experience of replacing the pin? I assume that there is a risk of deforming the brass shell during the process.
Comments and advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Dave
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Hmm,
On inspecting the trunnions from my car before putting the suspension back together, I noted that the pins on both were badly pitted and corroded and, even with a good clean up, were really not going to work particularly well. As I was going to be nearby, I called into the TR shop to pick up a new pair today.
In light of the above discussion, I wanted to check that the trunnions fitted the vertical link whilst still at the shop. Using a NOS stanpart link, the new trunnions ran up the thread very easily but there was discernable play, in as much as you could feel the trunnion rocking on the VL. Not good, thought I, but I didn't really know how much movement is to be expected. Clealy, given the pitch of the thread and the fact that it isn't screwed up tight in the way that a nut and bolt, for example, would be, there must be some relative movement between the two parts. In an attempt to shed some light on the issue, we tried the same exercise with the same NOS link and a NOS trunnion that they had. This too exhibited some play.
Can anyone comment on how much relative movement between a trunnion and link can be expected. One of the ones off my car felt pretty solid whereas the other had more movement, albeit less than the ones I looked at today. Obviously, the ones off the car are full of grease whereas today's specimins were dry.
Comments and advice greatly appreciated.
Dave
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I bought a new piston/liner set at Stoneleigh and have just offered up the liners to check the protrusion above the top of the block. I was surprised at how loose the liner seems to be in its socket; there being noticeable 'play'. Is this normal?
As an aside, it was also 'interesting' to discover that the thickness of my feeler gauges bears very little relationship to what is actually marked on them! For example one is actually thicker than the next size up which is supposed to be twice as thick.
Dave
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Les,
Thanks from me as well for taking the trouble to post the dimensions.
Much appreciated.
Dave
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Les,
At some stage in the future I will have to amke up a set of these. Would you be able to mesure them and post the dimensions please.
Dave
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Eric, I have a Lockheed axle that will be surplus to requirements and would be willing to split it if no one else has a single shaft available for you. I understand that it is important to keep the shafts on the same side as they have been used previously, otherwise the stress reversal leads to the shaft breaking soon after it is re-installed. In my case, the LHS shaft was replaced something like 20,000 miles ago whereas the RHS one is of indeterminate age and, if the condition of the rest of the axle is anything to go by, has probably had a very hard life indeed. I would be able to extract it at the weekend if needed. Drop me a pm. Dave
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Many thnaks for all your responses. I have gone for Royal Blue, although the paint that we have just bought looks quite a bit darker than Miles' car. Looking back through an old TR Action (December last year) there is an article by Ian Brown about his preparation for the RBRR. I remember seeing Ians car at the Triumph Spares Day once and remember thinking that was the colour I wanted. Does anyone perhaps have a contact for Ian?
Dave
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Many thanks to all for taking the effort to search for and post photos; it has been very useful. I have also been searching past posts with the effect that I am now aware of more shades of blue out there in TR land than I new existed, and also less sure which I prefer. I still think Royal blue is top of the list (your car looks smashing Miles) but I also like the car off e-bay (Stuart thought it might be Mallard blue) and Winchester blue is a contender and is also an original colour.
Choices, choices....
Miles, If I PM you my e-mail address, could you send me a photo of your cars interior as well please?
Thanks once again
Dave
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I am trying to decide on the new colour for my 3A, and quite fancy dark blue. Does anyone have any photos of a royal blue (or other dark blue) sidescreen car that they could e-mail or post.
Thanks
Dave
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Stuart, many thanks for taking the time to do that.
Dave
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Thanks Stuart
D
Length of brake pipe
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I should have made it clear that I am looking at a girling system which has the layout shown in Graham's photo. The pipe route used for a Lockheed axle is shorter as Mike describes. D.